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No blinking light for the AC, comp starts fine as there is change in the RPM, i went out few minutes ago to check the AC, it was like cooling at the most minimal level, it was giving out freon but at a very low level.
No blinking light for the AC, comp starts fine as there is change in the RPM, i went out few minutes ago to check the AC, it was like cooling at the most minimal level, it was giving out freon but at a very low level.
When you say "it was giving out freon but at a very low level", how did you determine this? looking at the sight glass?
No, the cooling was at a very minimal level even on the coldest setting, im unable to see anything through the looking class its always black for some reason.
I just went and started up my car right now and AC started working until i turned it off and back on again, i did the fault code search with OBDll but nothing showed up, 0 fault codes.
However idk if its me or just the car, i did felt a sudden drop in rpm after which AC started cooling, and even on the road when im driving i feel drop in RPM specially when the AC is on, anything related to this?
Is there a relay or something which might be causing this? Fuse is fine i checked it and even replaced it with a new one. Just a hunch.
When the AC system demands more cooling, a signal is sent to the compressor solenoid to change the amount of compression the AC compressor must perform - this puts a heavier load on the engine, which causes the RPM to drop. If the solenoid is not functioning properly (either the solenoid is failing, or if its signal wire is damaged), the compressor will not perform the required compression to produce the desired cooling.
According to the repair manual, an open or short circuit to the solenoid will create a DTC B1451, and the AC indicator will blink. You did not observe either of these conditions.
The repair manual also says that the proper measurement for the solenoid terminals should be 10-11 ohms at 20 degC. This would be a logical place to check next - you may have a failing solenoid that is out of the 10-11 ohms range, but not open or short circuit.
Intermittent electrical problem is very difficult to troubleshoot. Since your AC operates occasionally, we can rule out a blown fuse or a bad relay. It is most likely something temperature related.
Attached is the troubleshooting procedure for the compressor solenoid circuit B1451. I was not able to locate any information on how long the DTC stays in memory, and also, most consumer OBDII scanners can only read the "P" DTC.
IF it turns out to be a failing solenoid, whats the fix for it? Change the compressor?
The solenoid is built in to the compressor. So if the solenoid is not tested to the specification, the easiest thing to do is to replace the entire compressor. Rebuilding the compressor may also be another option.
While driving back home from work, early morning at 5 AC worked fine, got slow at one point i just shut it off and turned it back on, worked like a charm all the way home.
Dont know but could it be that the compressor shuts down due to the summer heat in dxb or heating up? If it does whats the fix?
Hi Guys - 2005 LS430 - A/C works occasionally. The sight glass check seems normal..full, no bubbles except a burst of bubbles on shutdown. I'm focusing on the pressure switch(es) first. I see one pressure switch beside the sight glass. Is that a high or low pressure switch? Are there two pressure switches?..if yes, where is there other located? Thanks - Bill
While driving back home from work, early morning at 5 AC worked fine, got slow at one point i just shut it off and turned it back on, worked like a charm all the way home.
Dont know but could it be that the compressor shuts down due to the summer heat in dxb or heating up? If it does whats the fix?
Did you figure it out in the past 4 years? i'm having the same problem in my gs300.
Update: Replaced AC compressor, condenser, and expansion valve and now everything works fine.
Hello everyone! I have an 04 ls 430 with 198 thousand miles. Purchase the my dream car back in 2018 with 63 thousand on the dash for 9 thousand in show room conditions second owner. This has to be the deal of the century. Lexus ls340 with low miles were anywhere from 15 to 19 thousand. So I fill blessed that I find this 04 ls430 at an Honda dealership as an trade in for 9 grand! I think they just wanted off their lot. Driven the car for years with no issues except an valve cover job. After 6yr no real matianace I decided to replace all front and rear suspension parts, shock, brakes, rotors. Tuneup and replaceed that life time trans fluids with new life time trans fluids at the dealershipwhich only cost me 230 dollars, but let me get to why I decided to post. About two weeks ago I noticed the AC wasn't blowing cold as normally. Check everything pertaining to the ac. What I found was that when driving ac blowed cold, but not as cold, which lead my to believe that my condenser fan wasn't working. So I checked by when turning the ac on the condenser fan should turn on. Fan would initially turn on, but wouldn't stay on. This is why while driving it blowed cold and not so much when stationary. This morning 9/21/24 I had to figure out why fan not turning on. First I need to if the fan had failed. Turn ac on and fan worked, but stopped. There's this silver box above the condenser fan that both fans plug into. I tapped this box and the fan came to life then stopped. tapping would engage the fan, but would only work intermediately. The ac will not blow cold if this fan isn't functioning properly. The part that needs replacing is the
Engine Cooling Fan Module - 2001-2006 Lexus LS430 4.3L V8
Just make sure that your fan are working, because it could be that your condeser fan went bad. So conform fans work first. I hope this was helpful, because there's nothing worse for me than driving an Lexus without ac.
04-22-17 | 02:38 PM
