Plastic skid plate dimensions/fabricate aluminum one
#1
Plastic skid plate dimensions/fabricate aluminum one
My plastic skid plate/shield is pretty old and beat up instead of buying a new one for $50-$150 i was thinking about making one for the ls that sorta looks like this
I got the idea from this thing i saw on figs engineering website, i can just use a sheet of aluminum $9-$30 a sheet and use the plastic one as a template so the bolt holes line up and eliminate the oil filter flap so its one smooth piece.
What are opinions? Also could someone give me the rough dimensions of one if they have an extra one laying around either that or i will measure mine tomorow.
I got the idea from this thing i saw on figs engineering website, i can just use a sheet of aluminum $9-$30 a sheet and use the plastic one as a template so the bolt holes line up and eliminate the oil filter flap so its one smooth piece.
What are opinions? Also could someone give me the rough dimensions of one if they have an extra one laying around either that or i will measure mine tomorow.
Last edited by 05ls430518; 01-25-18 at 08:48 PM.
#2
Pole Position
My plastic skid plate/shield is pretty old and beat up instead of buying a new one for $50-$150 i was thinking about making one for the ls that sorta looks like this
I got the idea from this thing i saw on figs engineering website, i can just use a sheet of aluminum $9-$30 a sheet and use the plastic one as a template so the bolt holes line up and eliminate the oil filter flap so its one smooth piece.
What are opinions? Also could someone give me the rough dimensions of one if they have an extra one laying around either that or i will measure mine tomorow.
I got the idea from this thing i saw on figs engineering website, i can just use a sheet of aluminum $9-$30 a sheet and use the plastic one as a template so the bolt holes line up and eliminate the oil filter flap so its one smooth piece.
What are opinions? Also could someone give me the rough dimensions of one if they have an extra one laying around either that or i will measure mine tomorow.
Here's the thing...how does the supplier of Aluminum undercover address reflected engine noise?
I added a steel OEM.undercover to a Mercedes Benz and there was a definite inctease in interior noise...especially through climate control vents open.
Not enthusiastic about OEM plastic, but if you use anything metallic, then you need to apply sound absorbing material. to attenuate reflected noise...not sure what would be compatible with elements; heat, cold, water, salt, ozone, oil, gas, coolant, ATF or brake fluid drips or leaks...
Last edited by YODAONE; 01-25-18 at 09:09 PM.
#3
Great concept...
Here's the thing...how does the supplier of Aluminum undercover address reflected engine noise?
I added a steel OEM.undercover to a Mercedes Benz and there was a definite inctease in interior noise...especially through climate control vents open.
Not enthusiastic about OEM plastic, but if you use anything metallic, then you need to apply sound absorbing material. to attenuate reflected noise...not sure what would be compatible with elements; heat, cold, water, salt, ozone, oil, gas, coolant, ATF or brake fluid drips or leaks...
Here's the thing...how does the supplier of Aluminum undercover address reflected engine noise?
I added a steel OEM.undercover to a Mercedes Benz and there was a definite inctease in interior noise...especially through climate control vents open.
Not enthusiastic about OEM plastic, but if you use anything metallic, then you need to apply sound absorbing material. to attenuate reflected noise...not sure what would be compatible with elements; heat, cold, water, salt, ozone, oil, gas, coolant, ATF or brake fluid drips or leaks...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042UBWCE/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1516947270&sr=1-7&refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A5485668011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41QyG-9yqJL&ref=plSrch
These would work better because there neoprene so there resistant to oil, heat, elements, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HYN47A0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1516947433&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neoprene+washers&dpPl=1&dpID=31BaRpTx%2BcL&ref=plSrch
So the idea would be to put 1 on each side the to get the desired dampening effect, when i trace the stock one on a sheet of aluminum use a sharpie to mark all bolt holes and trace all drain holes and that should take care of it.
Last edited by 05ls430518; 01-25-18 at 10:23 PM.
#4
Lexus Fanatic
seems like there are knock offs if you don't want to pay for OE. I've always felt that it just smooths the air underneath so it is necessary, but wouldn't matter that much and lightweight would be best...just the way that we bend the thing to get the oil filter off makes me cringe....
#5
Moderator
Keep in mind a couple things. Aluminum, depending on what grade/hardness of Aluminum you buy (2024 T-3, 5056 T-3, 7075 T-6, etc) you'll have to form it to match the contour of the mounting points, which may be a little difficult, depending on the direction of the grain in the aluminum sheet, and what you're forming it over. If you'll be using a softer aluminum (T-0 or T-3) it's easier to form over a wooden block with a rubber or wood mallet, but since it's softer, it's prone to bending more easily. T-6 aluminum is stiffer and stronger, but it also cracks along the grain, if you bend it too far or the bend radius is too tight.
T-0 is best when it's heated after forming to anneal the metal, but you'd need an oven that could swallow something that size.
Just some things to consider...
T-0 is best when it's heated after forming to anneal the metal, but you'd need an oven that could swallow something that size.
Just some things to consider...
#6
Keep in mind a couple things. Aluminum, depending on what grade/hardness of Aluminum you buy (2024 T-3, 5056 T-3, 7075 T-6, etc) you'll have to form it to match the contour of the mounting points, which may be a little difficult, depending on the direction of the grain in the aluminum sheet, and what you're forming it over. If you'll be using a softer aluminum (T-0 or T-3) it's easier to form over a wooden block with a rubber or wood mallet, but since it's softer, it's prone to bending more easily. T-6 aluminum is stiffer and stronger, but it also cracks along the grain, if you bend it too far or the bend radius is too tight.
T-0 is best when it's heated after forming to anneal the metal, but you'd need an oven that could swallow something that size.
Just some things to consider...
T-0 is best when it's heated after forming to anneal the metal, but you'd need an oven that could swallow something that size.
Just some things to consider...
Any recomendation on which type of aluminum i should use or should i use galvanized steel.
I am also doing this because i was driving last summer and some a-hole contractor left a can of paint or something with paint on it and i was following them and ran it over when it fell out of there truck so i that is part of the reason the stock splash gaurd is all jacked up.
#7
Moderator
Galvanized steel is heavier, but it's definitely more forgiving when it comes to bending. More corrosion resistant than Aluminum too. Probably cheaper...
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