LS - 3rd Gen (2001-2006) Discussion topics related to the flagship Lexus LS430

So whose right removing 04 LS430 Sub woofer?

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Old 02-09-18, 02:23 PM
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Hagar
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Default So whose right removing 04 LS430 Sub woofer?

My sub might be buzzing (I think) and I started looking at how and or if I might replace or repair it. Two different ways of removing it came up and I wonder which one is right?
for a 04 LS430 UL
One says to remove practically the whole back of the car
and another says;

Removing The Sub
1. Pry up the sub cover and/or Remove rear headrests (not required)
2. Pop out the trim that's behind the arm rest
3. Pop out the cover for the bolt to loosen up the back seat (x 3 12mm)
4. Remove 3 nuts the hold the back seat back
5. Gently pull the seat forward from the top
6. After you get enough clearance, remove the two plugs that hold down deck cover
7. Lift up on the deck cover until you can get your arm under
8. Unscrew the sub (x4 10mm)
9. Unplug the sub
10.Pull the sub out
11.Put back together in reverse or continue to read for repair

That really sounds simpler or are they the same? Details might be missing in the later.
Old 02-09-18, 03:06 PM
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markwhit
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Just an FYI, I took mine to a local professional shop that install stereos, speakers, etc. I bought a new woofer and they installed it for 75.00. Best 75.00 i spent. Less than two hours later the car was ready and was able to move on to other things. Couldnt even tell they installed it since it was done professionally and they already knew how to do it without destroying the interior.
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Old 02-09-18, 03:20 PM
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rkw77080
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Originally Posted by Hagar
My sub might be buzzing (I think) and I started looking at how and or if I might replace or repair it. Two different ways of removing it came up and I wonder which one is right?
for a 04 LS430 UL
One says to remove practically the whole back of the car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjCduWbVLuk and another says;

Removing The Sub
1. Pry up the sub cover and/or Remove rear headrests (not required)
2. Pop out the trim that's behind the arm rest
3. Pop out the cover for the bolt to loosen up the back seat (x 3 12mm)
4. Remove 3 nuts the hold the back seat back
5. Gently pull the seat forward from the top
6. After you get enough clearance, remove the two plugs that hold down deck cover
7. Lift up on the deck cover until you can get your arm under
8. Unscrew the sub (x4 10mm)
9. Unplug the sub
10.Pull the sub out
11.Put back together in reverse or continue to read for repair

That really sounds simpler or are they the same? Details might be missing in the later.
To access the sub-woofer, you go through essentially the same steps as you would to get to the top-mount of the rear struts. Please take a look at the link below for instructions...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...del-ls430.html
Old 02-09-18, 03:24 PM
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There are always more than one way to do something. In this case either way described will work. Its up to you to decide what you think is right based on your skill level and what you feel comfortable doing. If you go into it and try and pry the rear deck up and feel like its going to buckle and break and not willing to take the chance they you need to remove the whole deck. So its your call. My preference is to remove the whole rear deck. I'm comfortable doing it the other way but my preference is to remove it.
Old 02-09-18, 05:59 PM
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rkw77080
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Speaking of options, I know of a professional installer who replaced the LS430 sub-woofer by cutting away excess material (see red dash line in the photo below) under the speaker grill such that he can access the 4 mounting bolts without removing the rear deck. He would leave about 1/2" of panel material for the speak grill to sit on.

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Old 02-10-18, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by rkw77080
Speaking of options, I know of a professional installer who replaced the LS430 sub-woofer by cutting away excess material (see red dash line in the photo below) under the speaker grill such that he can access the 4 mounting bolts without removing the rear deck. He would leave about 1/2" of panel material for the speak grill to sit on.
Yup. There was a post a few months ago from someone over in Norway, or Sweden, or some Nordic country and that's exactly what they did. They trimmed the panel back to expose the mounting bolts and had the new sub installed in record time. That's the way I'm doing it if I do it again...
Old 02-10-18, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by rkw77080
Speaking of options, I know of a professional installer who replaced the LS430 sub-woofer by cutting away excess material (see red dash line in the photo below) under the speaker grill such that he can access the 4 mounting bolts without removing the rear deck. He would leave about 1/2" of panel material for the speak grill to sit on.

This is the way I'm going to do mine when the time comes. I was able to buy a little time with liquid taping the woofer but I think I'm ultimately going to have to replace it.

Not to confuse anyone with what we are saying vs this picture, the picture would be just for display purposes so you can see where to make the cuts. You do not have to take the seat apart like this to cut the opening. You can just remove the speaker cover, which just lifts out, cut the area like what is marked using something like a dremel tool. Then you'll have enough room to unbolt the speaker and remove it through the opening. The speaker cover will then cover the whole area so you won't see what has been cut.

Don't forget to get a dual voice coil and jump the coils so that it runs in 8 ohm.

Last edited by caverman; 02-12-18 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 02-10-18, 04:49 PM
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rkw77080
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As I recall, the installer uses a utility knife with a hook blade (see photo below) to do the cutting. The rear deck cover is made of medium density cardboard lined with a thin layer of carpet on the outside.

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Old 02-12-18, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rkw77080
Speaking of options, I know of a professional installer who replaced the LS430 sub-woofer by cutting away excess material (see red dash line in the photo below) under the speaker grill such that he can access the 4 mounting bolts without removing the rear deck. He would leave about 1/2" of panel material for the speak grill to sit on.

This picture brings back memories when I was running new wires to the back. I agree cutting out the square would be the ideal for replacing the subwoofer. Plus I'll be doing this again this summer when I do my rear struts.

Last edited by whooodat; 02-14-18 at 06:35 AM.
Old 02-12-18, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by caverman
This is the way I'm going to do mine when the time comes. I was able to buy a little time with liquid taping the woofer but I think I'm ultimately going to have to replace it.

Not to confuse anyone with what we are saying vs this picture, the picture would be just for display purposes so you can see where to make the cuts. You do not have to take the seat apart like this to cut the opening. You can just remove the speaker cover, which just lifts out, cut the area like what is marked using something like a dremel tool. Then you'll have enough room to unbolt the speaker and remove it through the opening. The speaker cover will then cover the whole area so you won't see what has been cut.

Don't forget to get a dual voice coil and jump the coils so that it runs in 16 ohm.
I thought the "Polk Audio DB840" was a Single Voice Coil Subwoofer.
Old 02-12-18, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BigAlLex
I thought the "Polk Audio DB840" was a Single Voice Coil Subwoofer.
They probably make them in both SVC and DVC versions. I'm not seeing the DVC version on Amazon any more and it was removed from my wish list. My guess is that model is in the process of being phased out.
If you watch the video in the first post he goes through the steps you need including converting it to 8 ohm.

I think I might do this in a couple months when the weather gets to be nicer. If I do I'll post pictures and feedback.

Last edited by caverman; 02-12-18 at 09:56 AM.
Old 02-12-18, 11:25 AM
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rkw77080
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The " Polk Audio DB840" is a DVC, but you can certainly use it as a SVC speaker - just hook up to one set of terminals, and leave the second set empty. Attach below is the factory manual...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
dbSub_MN.pdf (641.7 KB, 169 views)
Old 02-12-18, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rkw77080
The " Polk Audio DB840" is a DVC, but you can certainly use it as a SVC speaker - just hook up to one set of terminals, and leave the second set empty. Attach below is the factory manual...
For Some Strange Reason I Can't Get This PDF to Open... However, Since you can't get the DVC Sub anymore, I'm assuming you don't have to Jump-A-Wire... Looks Like the SVC Sub Connectors are needed for the Plug-in Connector Attachment... Right or Wrong?
Old 02-12-18, 12:47 PM
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BigAlLex
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Originally Posted by BigAlLex
For Some Strange Reason I Can't Get This PDF to Open... However, Since you can't get the DVC Sub anymore, I'm assuming you don't have to Jump-A-Wire... Looks Like the SVC Sub Connectors are needed for the Plug-in Connector Attachment... Right or Wrong?
Also.. I Believe this is Polk Audio DB840 DVC Replacement https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...RoCV9YQAvD_BwE
Old 02-12-18, 01:56 PM
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Hagar...Do your homework. There are a zillion threads on subwoofer replacements on this forum. Read about any possible issues with the factory amp after non OEM subwoofer replacements which can be an expensive repair. Good luck.


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