DIY 3rd Gen LS430 subwoofer repair without rear seat removal
#17
Agreed! I suffered through several years of a blown sub because I didn't ever feel like tackling the work of removing the rear seat and dealing with panel clips that could break. Wish I would have known how easy this route was and I would have done it a long time ago.
#18
Simply the best thread i have found here
I just did this repair took maybe 45 mins. Lexus quote was $900 to replace Sub. I did it for $20 using simply speakers kit. I did not remove the rear seat.
I cut the rear deck. Does not compromise at all. Highly recommend
I cut the rear deck. Does not compromise at all. Highly recommend
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caverman (03-30-18)
#19
Thanks for the idea and writeup. It would definitely save a lot of time if you need to access the sub area often.
I would like to add that removing the rear seats, even with the UL option (as I have), is not difficult. I've done it 3 times (rear tray rattle due to subwoofer cover footpeg falling out and rolling around, again to refoam the sub, then again to fish a nav override wire from the trunk through to driver seat). The seat removal writeup at https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-01-03-ul.html is pretty good. It doesn't show how to remove the seat bottoms, but just grab them at the front, preferably at the 2 spots it latches on so you don't warp the frame, then just pull vertically - they pop right off. With the UL package, be aware that most moving pieces have a cable, so be sure to disconnect the cables as you work through each section. On the rear tray, there is very little spare cable for the rear solar sensor, so be extra careful there
I would like to add that removing the rear seats, even with the UL option (as I have), is not difficult. I've done it 3 times (rear tray rattle due to subwoofer cover footpeg falling out and rolling around, again to refoam the sub, then again to fish a nav override wire from the trunk through to driver seat). The seat removal writeup at https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-01-03-ul.html is pretty good. It doesn't show how to remove the seat bottoms, but just grab them at the front, preferably at the 2 spots it latches on so you don't warp the frame, then just pull vertically - they pop right off. With the UL package, be aware that most moving pieces have a cable, so be sure to disconnect the cables as you work through each section. On the rear tray, there is very little spare cable for the rear solar sensor, so be extra careful there
#20
If you want to remove the rear seat, more power to you. I just feel like it would be a lot of extra work including having potential issues with putting everything back like it should be. I hope to never deal with my rear sub again but I can tell you did didn't take hardly any time to widen the opening and do the R&R on the sub and I would recommend this route and do it all over again in a heart beat. For me, it's a no brainer but I'm sure there is others that would feel better removing the rear seat and that's fine as well. At least everyone knows there is options.
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2KHarrier (03-31-18)
#21
I finally got around to doing this today on my 22k mile car. Sub was replaced already in my high mileage car when I bought it. The entire foam ring was gone. Nothing was connecting the cone to the frame. The sound felt tiny before. I figured it was the sub. Sounds fantastic now.
#22
This method significantly simplifies the process of replacing or repairing the LS430 subwoofer, whose rubber surround has likely been destroyed by years of UV radiation from the sun. This method, by skipping the pain of removing the back seat, will surely encourage many DIYers to attempt the restoration project. For a fairly small investment on the repair kit, you can restore the OEM subwoofer, which will also maintain compatibility both electrically and acoustically with your existing OEM amplifier.
This will definitely be one of the most popular DIY project... Hat's off to Caverman for documenting the procedure!
This will definitely be one of the most popular DIY project... Hat's off to Caverman for documenting the procedure!
#24
Awesome!!!
Thanks for this thread. Not only did the sub woofer come out easy, the speaker foam was destroyed. Had it replaced in less than 30 minutes. Can’t wait to go install it and test it out now. Thanks Again!!!
Last edited by Miklosfb1; 04-01-18 at 01:43 PM. Reason: Add Photo
#27
The Mark Levinson subwoofer is a single-channel 16-ohm impedance speaker (it measures about 14.5-ohm resistance). The Pioneer subwoofer is a dual-channel 2-ohm impedance speaker.
Please take look at Posts #4 and #8 on the link below...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...on-ml-sub.html
Please take look at Posts #4 and #8 on the link below...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...on-ml-sub.html
#28
Rear subwoofer
The Pioneer system rear subwoofer on LS430.appears slightly larger than (1999) LS400.
Am interested in the Pioneer rear subwoofer because it is 2 ohms and appears compatible with my LS400 OEM Pioneer system
Can anyone provide diameter of LS430 rear subwoofer?(Pioneer)
Ohms rating and diameter on LS430 Pioneer door speakers?
Thanks.
Am interested in the Pioneer rear subwoofer because it is 2 ohms and appears compatible with my LS400 OEM Pioneer system
Can anyone provide diameter of LS430 rear subwoofer?(Pioneer)
Ohms rating and diameter on LS430 Pioneer door speakers?
Thanks.
#30