Vibration on occasion - through steering.
05-03-18, 04:30 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Vibration on occasion - through steering.
So I dont get wobble/play like a bad wheel bearing. But occasionally I get a shimmy vibration that I can detect on the steering wheel.
Shocks? Tie rods? Im at 150k miles, what typically needs to be replaced on these?
Shocks? Tie rods? Im at 150k miles, what typically needs to be replaced on these?
05-05-18, 09:10 AM
#3
I would say that at 150k miles, a front end refresh couldn't hurt... especially if you plan on keeping the car for awhile.
05-05-18, 05:40 PM
#4
05-05-18, 06:10 PM
#5
Tie rods, inner and outer. About $110 for Moog components.
Shocks, though I would do the rears too. About $400 for all of them, plus any other worn components like the mount, bushings, etc.
Front sway bar bushings. $25 for polys.
Front sway bar links, $60 for Moogs.
Balljoints. You can go OEM for about $160, or aftermarket for about $70. Your call.
Upper control arms, about $140 for Moogs.
Lower control arm bushings... either pressed in OEMs, or later IS units, $80 for the pair.
Some of these might not be necessary, but depending on the year of your vehicle, the mileage (150k), and the environment it's driven in... most of these should be getting close to the end of their life cycle. If you drive more on the highway, then those miles aren't going to be as hard on the components as city driving. All of these are pretty straight forward to replace yourself and all of them have been covered on this forum. If you did it all yourself, you'd save a ton of money on labor, if you have a shop do it, it's going to be several hundred dollars in labor easily, plus a higher cost on the parts unless you find a mechanic willing to let you provide the parts (rare). If you do it yourself, Autozone or its regional equivalent will loan you the tools needed to complete these jobs (spring compressor, ball joint separator, tie rod install tool). Out of everything, the struts are probably the most challenging, depending on your skill set. Still, all of this is very do-able.
I'm sure some people will tell you that they are at or beyond 150k and they've never replaced anything. That's fine but everyone drives their car differently and in different conditions. If you did all of this and got a fresh alignment (mandatory, especially if you do the tie rods), your front end should be rock solid for years to come.
Shocks, though I would do the rears too. About $400 for all of them, plus any other worn components like the mount, bushings, etc.
Front sway bar bushings. $25 for polys.
Front sway bar links, $60 for Moogs.
Balljoints. You can go OEM for about $160, or aftermarket for about $70. Your call.
Upper control arms, about $140 for Moogs.
Lower control arm bushings... either pressed in OEMs, or later IS units, $80 for the pair.
Some of these might not be necessary, but depending on the year of your vehicle, the mileage (150k), and the environment it's driven in... most of these should be getting close to the end of their life cycle. If you drive more on the highway, then those miles aren't going to be as hard on the components as city driving. All of these are pretty straight forward to replace yourself and all of them have been covered on this forum. If you did it all yourself, you'd save a ton of money on labor, if you have a shop do it, it's going to be several hundred dollars in labor easily, plus a higher cost on the parts unless you find a mechanic willing to let you provide the parts (rare). If you do it yourself, Autozone or its regional equivalent will loan you the tools needed to complete these jobs (spring compressor, ball joint separator, tie rod install tool). Out of everything, the struts are probably the most challenging, depending on your skill set. Still, all of this is very do-able.
I'm sure some people will tell you that they are at or beyond 150k and they've never replaced anything. That's fine but everyone drives their car differently and in different conditions. If you did all of this and got a fresh alignment (mandatory, especially if you do the tie rods), your front end should be rock solid for years to come.
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Thecar (05-11-18)
05-11-18, 10:19 AM
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Tie rods, inner and outer. About $110 for Moog components.
Shocks, though I would do the rears too. About $400 for all of them, plus any other worn components like the mount, bushings, etc.
Front sway bar bushings. $25 for polys.
Front sway bar links, $60 for Moogs.
Balljoints. You can go OEM for about $160, or aftermarket for about $70. Your call.
Upper control arms, about $140 for Moogs.
Lower control arm bushings... either pressed in OEMs, or later IS units, $80 for the pair.
Some of these might not be necessary, but depending on the year of your vehicle, the mileage (150k), and the environment it's driven in... most of these should be getting close to the end of their life cycle. If you drive more on the highway, then those miles aren't going to be as hard on the components as city driving. All of these are pretty straight forward to replace yourself and all of them have been covered on this forum. If you did it all yourself, you'd save a ton of money on labor, if you have a shop do it, it's going to be several hundred dollars in labor easily, plus a higher cost on the parts unless you find a mechanic willing to let you provide the parts (rare). If you do it yourself, Autozone or its regional equivalent will loan you the tools needed to complete these jobs (spring compressor, ball joint separator, tie rod install tool). Out of everything, the struts are probably the most challenging, depending on your skill set. Still, all of this is very do-able.
I'm sure some people will tell you that they are at or beyond 150k and they've never replaced anything. That's fine but everyone drives their car differently and in different conditions. If you did all of this and got a fresh alignment (mandatory, especially if you do the tie rods), your front end should be rock solid for years to come.
Shocks, though I would do the rears too. About $400 for all of them, plus any other worn components like the mount, bushings, etc.
Front sway bar bushings. $25 for polys.
Front sway bar links, $60 for Moogs.
Balljoints. You can go OEM for about $160, or aftermarket for about $70. Your call.
Upper control arms, about $140 for Moogs.
Lower control arm bushings... either pressed in OEMs, or later IS units, $80 for the pair.
Some of these might not be necessary, but depending on the year of your vehicle, the mileage (150k), and the environment it's driven in... most of these should be getting close to the end of their life cycle. If you drive more on the highway, then those miles aren't going to be as hard on the components as city driving. All of these are pretty straight forward to replace yourself and all of them have been covered on this forum. If you did it all yourself, you'd save a ton of money on labor, if you have a shop do it, it's going to be several hundred dollars in labor easily, plus a higher cost on the parts unless you find a mechanic willing to let you provide the parts (rare). If you do it yourself, Autozone or its regional equivalent will loan you the tools needed to complete these jobs (spring compressor, ball joint separator, tie rod install tool). Out of everything, the struts are probably the most challenging, depending on your skill set. Still, all of this is very do-able.
I'm sure some people will tell you that they are at or beyond 150k and they've never replaced anything. That's fine but everyone drives their car differently and in different conditions. If you did all of this and got a fresh alignment (mandatory, especially if you do the tie rods), your front end should be rock solid for years to come.
Is there a Part Number list you can post up- I see lots of variations on amazon for this sort of stuff, and I dont want to have to return any of it :-)
Ideally even there are maybe kits to just get all these parts together?
As I recall dont we need an alignment when you change out all these parts?
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05-11-18, 10:57 AM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Definitely need an alignment when doing the tie rods.
All the other stuff would be good to align after but probably isn't going to be too far off after you swap parts.
Just look on RockAuto for the correct parts then you can shop around from there
Also for what it is worth...I had a shake in my steering wheel and the ball joints were the problem.
All the other stuff would be good to align after but probably isn't going to be too far off after you swap parts.
Just look on RockAuto for the correct parts then you can shop around from there
Also for what it is worth...I had a shake in my steering wheel and the ball joints were the problem.
05-11-18, 11:36 AM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Possible vibration cause: uneven brake deposit layer on rotors
Removal of existing surface deposits on rotors with fine garnet abrasive pad has restored smooth braking for us.
it is not "turning the rotor" but just a thorough uniform scuffing and washing with soap and water.
it is not "turning the rotor" but just a thorough uniform scuffing and washing with soap and water.
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