2005 LS430 Smart key programming
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Just purchased a 2005 LS430 and my smart key fobs are not working correctly. The buttons do not open or close anything. The car does not recognize the 2 fobs so I can not open the door without the metal key nor start the car without putting the fob into the smart key slot. I can start the car by putting the fob into the slot so the car is recognizing that the key is registered to the car. The person I bought the car from said he took the car to a dealer who said that the drivers door actuator was bad. Since the metal key as well as the door lock/unlock buttons work to activate all the locks this does not seem correct.
The button by my knee is out as described in the manual
The car was stolen and then recovered so that certainly might have something to do with this. The blinking red security light seems to work correctly, it goes out once the fob is inserted, though I have not tried to set the alarm off since I am not positive I could get it to stop screaming if it did.
So, I have a few questions if anyone knows the answers:
1. On page 36 of the owners manual it says the 'Wireless Remote Control" can be deactivated as a vehicle theft deterrent. It seems if this happened my fobs would work as they are now. How do I tell if this is the case and how do I reverse this?
2. I just ordered TechStream software and cable. In the seemingly hundreds of threads I have read about this, I have seen mention of the "Immobilizer and Smart Key Reset". Is the "Immobilizer" what is mentioned in the manual in #1 above or something different? Can I undo the "immobilizer" without resetting my Smart Keys? I do not want to not be able to start my car.
3. Although it would be nice to have the capability to open doors and start the car with the fob in my pocket, my main goal is to get the buttons working. If I can not get the "Smart" part working can I at least get the buttons to work? For that matter can I buy a universal remote that will simply open the doors and trunk?
4. I can't remember exactly what they called it, but I have also read about using some Lexus meter to program the buttons. Does that apply to this model? If I have TechStream would I ever need this?
Thanks for reading and any suggestions.
The button by my knee is out as described in the manual
The car was stolen and then recovered so that certainly might have something to do with this. The blinking red security light seems to work correctly, it goes out once the fob is inserted, though I have not tried to set the alarm off since I am not positive I could get it to stop screaming if it did.
So, I have a few questions if anyone knows the answers:
1. On page 36 of the owners manual it says the 'Wireless Remote Control" can be deactivated as a vehicle theft deterrent. It seems if this happened my fobs would work as they are now. How do I tell if this is the case and how do I reverse this?
2. I just ordered TechStream software and cable. In the seemingly hundreds of threads I have read about this, I have seen mention of the "Immobilizer and Smart Key Reset". Is the "Immobilizer" what is mentioned in the manual in #1 above or something different? Can I undo the "immobilizer" without resetting my Smart Keys? I do not want to not be able to start my car.
3. Although it would be nice to have the capability to open doors and start the car with the fob in my pocket, my main goal is to get the buttons working. If I can not get the "Smart" part working can I at least get the buttons to work? For that matter can I buy a universal remote that will simply open the doors and trunk?
4. I can't remember exactly what they called it, but I have also read about using some Lexus meter to program the buttons. Does that apply to this model? If I have TechStream would I ever need this?
Thanks for reading and any suggestions.
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Have you replaced the battery in each of the key fobs?
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No, but measured them at just over 3v with a meter. The red light blinks when a button is pressed.
Last edited by crowland; 06-15-18 at 03:15 AM. Reason: more info
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You're referring to the small control panel that you can basically only see by putting your head right in front of the pedals and looking up, yes? The one with the volume **** to adjust how loud the beeping sound is when you lock/unlock with the key fob, as well as the buttons labeled "Tire reset" and "smart key"? I know that my ex-gf and I used to accidentally kick that button with the toe of our shoes when getting in/out of the car, and I wouldn't be able to use the smart key again until I realized that's what had happened. I don't remember which position the button is supposed to be in as far as pushed in or out, but I'd try both to see what happens.
As for batteries, I've had batteries go "dead" making the whole fob inoperable while still seeing a red light on the fob when pushing a button. Those batteries are a couple of bucks and can be found just about anywhere (Walmart, etc). Normally I'd say to try a new battery and see what happens, but the fact that it tests at just over 3V which is what the battery is rated for... idk.
As for batteries, I've had batteries go "dead" making the whole fob inoperable while still seeing a red light on the fob when pushing a button. Those batteries are a couple of bucks and can be found just about anywhere (Walmart, etc). Normally I'd say to try a new battery and see what happens, but the fact that it tests at just over 3V which is what the battery is rated for... idk.
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Also, it's on my list, but I don't have a TechStream. I have watched a couple of videos of different people using it and showing what it can do. When you receive yours, I'm willing to bet that it'll just be as simple as re-enabling your fobs since I seem to remember that being an option.
Good luck and keep us posted
Good luck and keep us posted
#7
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Anyone know the answers to these questions:
1. On page 36 of the owners manual it says the 'Wireless Remote Control" can be deactivated as a vehicle theft deterrent. It seems if this happened my fobs would work as they are now. How do I tell if this is the case and how do I reverse this?
2. I just ordered TechStream software and cable. In the seemingly hundreds of threads I have read about this, I have seen mention of the "Immobilizer and Smart Key Reset". Is the "Immobilizer" what is mentioned in the manual in #1 above or something different? Can I undo the "immobilizer" without resetting my Smart Keys? I do not want to not be able to start my car.
3. Although it would be nice to have the capability to open doors and start the car with the fob in my pocket, my main goal is to get the buttons working. If I can not get the "Smart" part working can I at least get the buttons to work? For that matter can I buy a universal remote that will simply open the doors and trunk?
4. I can't remember exactly what they called it, but I have also read about using some Lexus meter to program the buttons. Does that apply to this model? If I have TechStream would I ever need this?
1. On page 36 of the owners manual it says the 'Wireless Remote Control" can be deactivated as a vehicle theft deterrent. It seems if this happened my fobs would work as they are now. How do I tell if this is the case and how do I reverse this?
2. I just ordered TechStream software and cable. In the seemingly hundreds of threads I have read about this, I have seen mention of the "Immobilizer and Smart Key Reset". Is the "Immobilizer" what is mentioned in the manual in #1 above or something different? Can I undo the "immobilizer" without resetting my Smart Keys? I do not want to not be able to start my car.
3. Although it would be nice to have the capability to open doors and start the car with the fob in my pocket, my main goal is to get the buttons working. If I can not get the "Smart" part working can I at least get the buttons to work? For that matter can I buy a universal remote that will simply open the doors and trunk?
4. I can't remember exactly what they called it, but I have also read about using some Lexus meter to program the buttons. Does that apply to this model? If I have TechStream would I ever need this?
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#11
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THIS THIS!! You didn't mention any of these other symptoms but this very well may be the source of your woes, so make sure you check if there's a an asterisk next to "theft deterrent" when you hook up the TechStream.
#13
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I just went through a similar ordeal and successfully used TechSTream to get it all sorted. I had a bad theft deterrent ecu, key fobs that stopped working, plus
locks, gas cap & trunk opener, and mirror adjuster switches that all didn’t work.
First off, follow the instructions to the word when installing TechSTream. I didn’t and struggled for a few hours to get it going. Eventually I got it working.
Once you’re connected, run a full system diagnostic. It takes a few minutes. If any of the ecu’s in the car are bad, it will give you either error codes or show an asterisk next to it if it can’t communicate. I suspect if this is your problem, you have either a bad theft deterrent ecu or a bad immobilizer ecu. More likely this is not actually your issue and that you probably just need fob reprogramming.
If the ecu’s check out, move to Fob programming. It took me a while of digging through the software to find out where the key fob programming was and I can’t rememebr where I found it, but I assure you it’s in there. Once I found it, it was easy to program them . Mine have worked perfectly ever since. The software will tell you how many key transponders and fobs are programmed and will allow you to erase everything and start over if you want. Considering the car was stolen, this is probably a good idea.
Good luck!
locks, gas cap & trunk opener, and mirror adjuster switches that all didn’t work.
First off, follow the instructions to the word when installing TechSTream. I didn’t and struggled for a few hours to get it going. Eventually I got it working.
Once you’re connected, run a full system diagnostic. It takes a few minutes. If any of the ecu’s in the car are bad, it will give you either error codes or show an asterisk next to it if it can’t communicate. I suspect if this is your problem, you have either a bad theft deterrent ecu or a bad immobilizer ecu. More likely this is not actually your issue and that you probably just need fob reprogramming.
If the ecu’s check out, move to Fob programming. It took me a while of digging through the software to find out where the key fob programming was and I can’t rememebr where I found it, but I assure you it’s in there. Once I found it, it was easy to program them . Mine have worked perfectly ever since. The software will tell you how many key transponders and fobs are programmed and will allow you to erase everything and start over if you want. Considering the car was stolen, this is probably a good idea.
Good luck!
#15
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Crowland,
Make sure you have the proper hardware selected. That cost me an hour or 2 before I realized what the instructions were saying. I don't recall the exact menus, but on the top of the techstream screen, there are the various drop down menus. I believe you need to go to "set up", or similar. From there you have to get to the spot where you choose the name of your cable/hardware. It defaults to something else. If you can't figure this out, I can pull mine up when I get home.
Good luck
Make sure you have the proper hardware selected. That cost me an hour or 2 before I realized what the instructions were saying. I don't recall the exact menus, but on the top of the techstream screen, there are the various drop down menus. I believe you need to go to "set up", or similar. From there you have to get to the spot where you choose the name of your cable/hardware. It defaults to something else. If you can't figure this out, I can pull mine up when I get home.
Good luck