Wheel bearing help
06-16-18, 03:33 AM
#16
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Mbodall (06-16-18)
06-16-18, 01:23 PM
#19
rkw77080, where did you buy your service manual from? I need one too, usually have them for all my cars and need one for the LS
You can save them to your computer, which I recommend doing in case the site ever goes down.
06-17-18, 10:19 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
Are the holes in the carrier assembly threaded or just the holes in the flanges of the hub ?
Take the bolts used to hold the hub to the carrier assembly, they go in from behind the carrier assembly through the cover and into the hub, and screw them in the wrong direction from the outside. If you can knock the flanges either clockwise or counter (either will work) to mis align the holes screwing the bolts in from the outside will push on the dust cover and hopefully provide enough force to seperate the parts.
If the carrier assembly holes are threaded take 2 of the bolts, 6 and 12 o'clock, and insert them normally just far enough to be flush with the hole and not allowed to thread into the hub. Then use the 2 remaining bolts, threaded into the same holes from the outside, to push the hub out...
Edit- you'll prob have to remove the brake shoes to accomplish anything.
May or may not work but it's worth a shot.
Take the bolts used to hold the hub to the carrier assembly, they go in from behind the carrier assembly through the cover and into the hub, and screw them in the wrong direction from the outside. If you can knock the flanges either clockwise or counter (either will work) to mis align the holes screwing the bolts in from the outside will push on the dust cover and hopefully provide enough force to seperate the parts.
If the carrier assembly holes are threaded take 2 of the bolts, 6 and 12 o'clock, and insert them normally just far enough to be flush with the hole and not allowed to thread into the hub. Then use the 2 remaining bolts, threaded into the same holes from the outside, to push the hub out...
Edit- you'll prob have to remove the brake shoes to accomplish anything.
May or may not work but it's worth a shot.
06-17-18, 10:20 AM
#21
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Thread Starter
06-17-18, 10:24 AM
#22
What about a slide hammer puller? I doubt you're going to get a wide enough spread with one, so you might have to do a pull on each corner and work your way around till it comes off.
06-17-18, 10:37 AM
#23
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Thread Starter
If you're skint, put the 4 bolts back in but only 3 or 4 turns, don't tighten them down. Then find a long enough piece of 3/4 inch round bar and with a large hammer (32oz should do) give each bolt a good smack. That'll shock the hub enough as well as move it forward out of its recess. The other option is to use an air hammer/chisel in the same fashion. Just remember to use your safety squints and ear protection. Mine came out with reasonably minimal fuss, I had an air hammer to use which made the job far easier, ans I wasn't worried about trashing the old hubs as they are effectively ruined anyway
06-17-18, 10:41 AM
#24
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Thread Starter
What about a slide hammer puller? I doubt you're going to get a wide enough spread with one, so you might have to do a pull on each corner and work your way around till it comes off.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4579-9-Wa.../dp/B0015DMNIS
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4579-9-Wa.../dp/B0015DMNIS
06-18-18, 06:03 AM
#25
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Thread Starter
06-18-18, 08:57 AM
#27
I’d also recommend Koyo. Closest to OEM.
06-18-18, 09:16 AM
#28
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06-18-18, 09:19 AM
#29
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Thread Starter
The TIMKEN I got shows KOYO at the bottom of the part. May be the same thing. See the following link.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1426092&jsn=1
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1426092&jsn=1
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