Should I buy this LS430? Several questions
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Should I buy this LS430? Several questions
Hey everyone, I'm a longtime CL reader and this is my first post. I'd like to get your guidance on an LS430 I'm considering.
I'm looking for a 2004-2006 model in silver with black interior and no navigation so I can add a modern double-din stereo with a backup camera. After several weeks of searching and test driving, I found a two owner LS430 I thought might fit the bill with 152k miles for $8990:
https://houston.craigslist.org/ctd/d...612269231.html
It's a beautiful car in person. Looks like the first 30k miles was on lease, then it had a second owner from 30k to 152k. Attaching the AutoCheck report for reference.
It's at a small independent dealer in Houston that specializes in used luxury vehicles. The sales guy says the timing belt was replaced at 92k miles, based on the sticker that's attached to the engine cover. Is the sticker a reliable indication the belt was actually changed or do unscrupulous resellers just put those on there to increase the sale value? Would you guys trust that or just have the timing belt replaced now?
I looked up the service on drivers.lexus.com (attaching here as a PDF) and there is no record of the dealer doing the timing belt, although I suppose it could have been done at an independent shop.
There was a body shop repair listed at 25k (bumper) and alignment 1,000 miles later at 26k (indicating a significant front end impact that wasn't completely fixed with the repair at 25k?). The car stays in a straight line on the freeway with no problem, but the steering wheel is at the 11:30 position when the car is going straight.
There is a single dealer oil change listed at 70k miles, which seems weird standing out like that and is concerning if that's the only oil change the car has had.
Everything works except for the side mirror switch which appears to be easily fixed by cleaning corroded connectors (yay, CL search!).
As I'm typing this out, I'm starting to feel like the big gaps in service history and the collision and possible alignment issues are a red flag. Would you guys buy this LS or keep looking? Also, do you typically remove the plastic engine covers to visually inspect the engine when buying a used Lexus? It seems weird for the engine to be completely covered up so you can't see if there are leaks in expensive places but it also seems like it might be weird to pull out all the engine covers on a car you don't own, especially if it was with a private seller.
Any insight and guidance is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Jacob
I'm looking for a 2004-2006 model in silver with black interior and no navigation so I can add a modern double-din stereo with a backup camera. After several weeks of searching and test driving, I found a two owner LS430 I thought might fit the bill with 152k miles for $8990:
https://houston.craigslist.org/ctd/d...612269231.html
It's a beautiful car in person. Looks like the first 30k miles was on lease, then it had a second owner from 30k to 152k. Attaching the AutoCheck report for reference.
It's at a small independent dealer in Houston that specializes in used luxury vehicles. The sales guy says the timing belt was replaced at 92k miles, based on the sticker that's attached to the engine cover. Is the sticker a reliable indication the belt was actually changed or do unscrupulous resellers just put those on there to increase the sale value? Would you guys trust that or just have the timing belt replaced now?
I looked up the service on drivers.lexus.com (attaching here as a PDF) and there is no record of the dealer doing the timing belt, although I suppose it could have been done at an independent shop.
There was a body shop repair listed at 25k (bumper) and alignment 1,000 miles later at 26k (indicating a significant front end impact that wasn't completely fixed with the repair at 25k?). The car stays in a straight line on the freeway with no problem, but the steering wheel is at the 11:30 position when the car is going straight.
There is a single dealer oil change listed at 70k miles, which seems weird standing out like that and is concerning if that's the only oil change the car has had.
Everything works except for the side mirror switch which appears to be easily fixed by cleaning corroded connectors (yay, CL search!).
As I'm typing this out, I'm starting to feel like the big gaps in service history and the collision and possible alignment issues are a red flag. Would you guys buy this LS or keep looking? Also, do you typically remove the plastic engine covers to visually inspect the engine when buying a used Lexus? It seems weird for the engine to be completely covered up so you can't see if there are leaks in expensive places but it also seems like it might be weird to pull out all the engine covers on a car you don't own, especially if it was with a private seller.
Any insight and guidance is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Jacob
#2
It is priced about right given the mileage. Although possible, it's not likely that the TB sticker is fake. I don't place much stock in AutoCheck. What does the Carfax say?
Bumper cover replacement is not unusual. Steering wheel issue is troubling - would have dealer align the car to see if it can be corrected.
If the lack of documented service history really troubles you, keep looking. There are plenty of LS 430s that will have complete (or near complete) records.
Bumper cover replacement is not unusual. Steering wheel issue is troubling - would have dealer align the car to see if it can be corrected.
If the lack of documented service history really troubles you, keep looking. There are plenty of LS 430s that will have complete (or near complete) records.
#3
The alignment done at 26k was because or 4 tires purchased and installed... nothing unusual or concerning about that.
To eliminate any worry, bring the car to a Lexus dealer for a pre-purchase inspection. For $120-$200 depending on the dealer, it's the absolute best way to know if it's a solid buy. They'll test every. single. system. and. component, fluid leaks and fluid condition, suspension components including the rubber bushings which commonly are issues with these cars (and most/all cars after 12+ years)... they look at everything. They'll also look for evidence of repaired accident damage (although getting a new bumper and only a bumper at 25k miles could just mean they backed into a post or something and had it replaced, since now you know the alignment was not related to an accident). Tell the seller you want them to have another alignment done as well so that you know the car can be aligned without any problem.
Just get a PPI done, and if all goes well, no need to ask any more questions. Just ask for the dotted line to sign.
To eliminate any worry, bring the car to a Lexus dealer for a pre-purchase inspection. For $120-$200 depending on the dealer, it's the absolute best way to know if it's a solid buy. They'll test every. single. system. and. component, fluid leaks and fluid condition, suspension components including the rubber bushings which commonly are issues with these cars (and most/all cars after 12+ years)... they look at everything. They'll also look for evidence of repaired accident damage (although getting a new bumper and only a bumper at 25k miles could just mean they backed into a post or something and had it replaced, since now you know the alignment was not related to an accident). Tell the seller you want them to have another alignment done as well so that you know the car can be aligned without any problem.
Just get a PPI done, and if all goes well, no need to ask any more questions. Just ask for the dotted line to sign.
#4
Lexus Fanatic
The alignment done at 26k was because or 4 tires purchased and installed... nothing unusual or concerning about that.
To eliminate any worry, bring the car to a Lexus dealer for a pre-purchase inspection. For $120-$200 depending on the dealer, it's the absolute best way to know if it's a solid buy. They'll test every. single. system. and. component, fluid leaks and fluid condition, suspension components including the rubber bushings which commonly are issues with these cars (and most/all cars after 12+ years)... they look at everything. They'll also look for evidence of repaired accident damage (although getting a new bumper and only a bumper at 25k miles could just mean they backed into a post or something and had it replaced, since now you know the alignment was not related to an accident). Tell the seller you want them to have another alignment done as well so that you know the car can be aligned without any problem.
Just get a PPI done, and if all goes well, no need to ask any more questions. Just ask for the dotted line to sign.
To eliminate any worry, bring the car to a Lexus dealer for a pre-purchase inspection. For $120-$200 depending on the dealer, it's the absolute best way to know if it's a solid buy. They'll test every. single. system. and. component, fluid leaks and fluid condition, suspension components including the rubber bushings which commonly are issues with these cars (and most/all cars after 12+ years)... they look at everything. They'll also look for evidence of repaired accident damage (although getting a new bumper and only a bumper at 25k miles could just mean they backed into a post or something and had it replaced, since now you know the alignment was not related to an accident). Tell the seller you want them to have another alignment done as well so that you know the car can be aligned without any problem.
Just get a PPI done, and if all goes well, no need to ask any more questions. Just ask for the dotted line to sign.
They also did a free multipoint inspection and recommended over $5k worth of work, all of which the indie stated was unnecessary, except the timing belt ($1400 per them) would be something to consider when you cross 90k.
So if a dealership does this PPI, are they going to recommend $5k worth of work, on a 2006 car with 81k?
My theory is much like the stock market. Equities are pried from weak hands, by strong hands. That is why imho original owners dump LS430s, they trust the dealership and when faced with a nearly $6k bill on a car they have owned since new, or are the 2nd owner thereof, there's no way they're going to pay that on an old car. Just curious what a PPI turns up, because on a 13 yo car its a goldmine for repairs.
p.s. I am implying I do not necessarily trust dealers. From YouTube, you can easily drive a 2006 MB to the dealer, and leave with a report recommending 20k worth of work, most of which is not needed....so many videos of this on YouTube...
#5
This is what I would wonder. I bought my LS430 used, from a GMC dealership. The first time I went to a Lexus dealership, it was for a brake fluid flush and a coolant drain/fill (they charged me $59 and $129 respectively which seem reasonable, with the brake fluid cheap, none of which are on the carfax but on the lexus drivers so I don't get it).
They also did a free multipoint inspection and recommended over $5k worth of work, all of which the indie stated was unnecessary, except the timing belt ($1400 per them) would be something to consider when you cross 90k.
So if a dealership does this PPI, are they going to recommend $5k worth of work, on a 2006 car with 81k?
My theory is much like the stock market. Equities are pried from weak hands, by strong hands. That is why imho original owners dump LS430s, they trust the dealership and when faced with a nearly $6k bill on a car they have owned since new, or are the 2nd owner thereof, there's no way they're going to pay that on an old car. Just curious what a PPI turns up, because on a 13 yo car its a goldmine for repairs.
p.s. I am implying I do not necessarily trust dealers. From YouTube, you can easily drive a 2006 MB to the dealer, and leave with a report recommending 20k worth of work, most of which is not needed....so many videos of this on YouTube...
They also did a free multipoint inspection and recommended over $5k worth of work, all of which the indie stated was unnecessary, except the timing belt ($1400 per them) would be something to consider when you cross 90k.
So if a dealership does this PPI, are they going to recommend $5k worth of work, on a 2006 car with 81k?
My theory is much like the stock market. Equities are pried from weak hands, by strong hands. That is why imho original owners dump LS430s, they trust the dealership and when faced with a nearly $6k bill on a car they have owned since new, or are the 2nd owner thereof, there's no way they're going to pay that on an old car. Just curious what a PPI turns up, because on a 13 yo car its a goldmine for repairs.
p.s. I am implying I do not necessarily trust dealers. From YouTube, you can easily drive a 2006 MB to the dealer, and leave with a report recommending 20k worth of work, most of which is not needed....so many videos of this on YouTube...
#6
Lexus Fanatic
Once I did my own investigative reports. My Maxima needed a new muffler, resonator, etc. (everything behind the CAT), and had a lifetime warranty, which I did not mention. I went to the 3 nearest muffler shops (the one where they have a king going around turning things to rust I mean gold)--estimates ranged from $480 to $700. At the $480, the guy asked why don't you want to get it fixed? I said, "Aw, my wife ain't gonna let me puts that much into an old car, she gonna tell me drive it wit da noyze." (I'm messing around with them) So the guy goes, well, if you do decide to do the work, just remember, we can take another 20% off.
#7
Why are you looking at that one when you should be looking at this one https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d...619999196.html
Less miles and it has been for sale for awhile so there is probably a deal to be had.
If you're actually in Houston (as I am), I would say use https://clearchoicetexas.com/ for a PPI. I've used their Woodlands location numerous times and they are great.
If you're dead set on the one you listed, I would try and drive the price down based on mileage. If that was a local trade, they probably didn't get much for it and then sold it at auction where this dealer bought it for a lot less than it's listed.
Less miles and it has been for sale for awhile so there is probably a deal to be had.
If you're actually in Houston (as I am), I would say use https://clearchoicetexas.com/ for a PPI. I've used their Woodlands location numerous times and they are great.
If you're dead set on the one you listed, I would try and drive the price down based on mileage. If that was a local trade, they probably didn't get much for it and then sold it at auction where this dealer bought it for a lot less than it's listed.
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#8
It's at a small independent dealer in Houston that specializes in used luxury vehicles. The sales guy says the timing belt was replaced at 92k miles, based on the sticker that's attached to the engine cover. Is the sticker a reliable indication the belt was actually changed or do unscrupulous resellers just put those on there to increase the sale value? Would you guys trust that or just have the timing belt replaced now?
Having said that, does the sticker looks like its been there for a while? Maybe the edge of the sticker has started to peel off? Or does the sticker looks brand new? Personally, I would account for the cost of replacing TB and WP, and go from there. The car has 150K right? so 30K too early but it does makes me sleep better at night. I just bought a CL with 118K. The only reason I am not changing TB, WP etc right now is because Lexus has a record it was done at 90K.
Probably the same in the 4.3 engine, but in the 4.7L v8 like in Land Cruiser, you can pull the cover (the front little piece on the passenger side) and peek into the belt if that helps you decide. Obviously you probably has to buy the car first before doing this. Kinda doubt they will let you do this before buying. I would also look at the water pump, does it start to leak from the little hole. If it does, you need to replace the WP, which means you might as well replace the TB.
Why are you looking at that one when you should be looking at this one https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d...619999196.html
Less miles and it has been for sale for awhile so there is probably a deal to be had.
Less miles and it has been for sale for awhile so there is probably a deal to be had.
Last edited by BCT; 06-20-18 at 09:57 AM.
#9
Why are you looking at that one when you should be looking at this one https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d...619999196.html
Less miles and it has been for sale for awhile so there is probably a deal to be had.
If you're actually in Houston (as I am), I would say use https://clearchoicetexas.com/ for a PPI. I've used their Woodlands location numerous times and they are great.
If you're dead set on the one you listed, I would try and drive the price down based on mileage. If that was a local trade, they probably didn't get much for it and then sold it at auction where this dealer bought it for a lot less than it's listed.
Less miles and it has been for sale for awhile so there is probably a deal to be had.
If you're actually in Houston (as I am), I would say use https://clearchoicetexas.com/ for a PPI. I've used their Woodlands location numerous times and they are great.
If you're dead set on the one you listed, I would try and drive the price down based on mileage. If that was a local trade, they probably didn't get much for it and then sold it at auction where this dealer bought it for a lot less than it's listed.
#11
Driver School Candidate
OK, so as not to waste starting a new thread, I'll forumbomb this one. I also have been wingeing over an 07 on a used lot, 49k on it which seems legit from the quickie vin check I did on it. A Virginia car and new to FL, my main trepidation is why is it on a large 'buy here' (burpers as they're know as in the field) with seemingly low miles? I haven't gone to see it yet as it's an hour away. And it seems like a base model.
And what are the big points for me to inspect on these? I can do the basics, look for flood damage, odd wear, etc. I'm pretty adept at divining abuse even with a salesman yodeling in my ear.
And what are the big points for me to inspect on these? I can do the basics, look for flood damage, odd wear, etc. I'm pretty adept at divining abuse even with a salesman yodeling in my ear.
#12
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the excellent feedback.
TriC, Carfax has the same info as AutoCheck on this one.
Mbodall, nice catch. I was reading the dealer service records in the wee hours of the morning and missed that.
Romanova, I had high hopes for the blue LS430 when I drove an hour+ to see it a few weeks ago. The owner gave me the runaround, left me waiting "a block from his house" for 20+ minutes in the heat, no answer on his phone. When he finally arrived the interior reeked of vanilla and dank pipe tobacco. Not saying it was flooded, but I had to hold my breath to look inside. One walk around and I left.
I've test driven 4 LS430's and a GS350 over the last few weeks and I'm consistently surprised how badly people let these beautiful cars go without maintaining them, at least cosmetically.
BCT, the sticker looks like it could have been in there for 10k or 20k miles. The engine bay way freshly detailed and slathered in trim restore, so it's really hard to tell. 60k seems like a stretch, but it's the first timing belt sticker I've seen, so I don't have a close point of reference.
I called the Lexus dealership closest to the indie dealer with the silver LS but they don't offer 3rd party PPI.
I've been texting with the indie dealer today while I was traveling and they said they allow mechanics to come onsite to do inspections but they don't let the cars leave to the mechanic's shop. They just want the mechanic to come with their own jacks and jack stands and do a PPI onsite, in the Houston heat, under a jackstand. Yeah right.
I even offered to pay for an alignment on their car from my mechanic as part of the in-shop inspection, no dice.
Their lame excuse was that a mechanic will have a conflict of interest and write a long list of findings to generate work for themselves. Eventually they agreed to an in-shop inspection with the caveat that I won't use their findings to negotiate on price. Ridiculous. Feels like I'm negotiating with a teenager.
Needless to say, that guy is in the wrong line of work if he's afraid of negotiating after a PPI. I'm going to walk away from this one on general principle, even though it might be a good LS for me.
Thanks for everyone's input!
Jacob
TriC, Carfax has the same info as AutoCheck on this one.
Mbodall, nice catch. I was reading the dealer service records in the wee hours of the morning and missed that.
Romanova, I had high hopes for the blue LS430 when I drove an hour+ to see it a few weeks ago. The owner gave me the runaround, left me waiting "a block from his house" for 20+ minutes in the heat, no answer on his phone. When he finally arrived the interior reeked of vanilla and dank pipe tobacco. Not saying it was flooded, but I had to hold my breath to look inside. One walk around and I left.
I've test driven 4 LS430's and a GS350 over the last few weeks and I'm consistently surprised how badly people let these beautiful cars go without maintaining them, at least cosmetically.
BCT, the sticker looks like it could have been in there for 10k or 20k miles. The engine bay way freshly detailed and slathered in trim restore, so it's really hard to tell. 60k seems like a stretch, but it's the first timing belt sticker I've seen, so I don't have a close point of reference.
I called the Lexus dealership closest to the indie dealer with the silver LS but they don't offer 3rd party PPI.
I've been texting with the indie dealer today while I was traveling and they said they allow mechanics to come onsite to do inspections but they don't let the cars leave to the mechanic's shop. They just want the mechanic to come with their own jacks and jack stands and do a PPI onsite, in the Houston heat, under a jackstand. Yeah right.
I even offered to pay for an alignment on their car from my mechanic as part of the in-shop inspection, no dice.
Their lame excuse was that a mechanic will have a conflict of interest and write a long list of findings to generate work for themselves. Eventually they agreed to an in-shop inspection with the caveat that I won't use their findings to negotiate on price. Ridiculous. Feels like I'm negotiating with a teenager.
Needless to say, that guy is in the wrong line of work if he's afraid of negotiating after a PPI. I'm going to walk away from this one on general principle, even though it might be a good LS for me.
Thanks for everyone's input!
Jacob
#13
Yeah, best that you walk away. If you see the one at Fall Creek out in Humble on CL, make sure you avoid that one also.
If you can be patient, the right one will come along. I've got a contact at Westside Lexus if you're interested. That way, you can know as soon as they take an LS430 on trade. That's how I got mine and mine was in killer shape, all records, etc.
If you can be patient, the right one will come along. I've got a contact at Westside Lexus if you're interested. That way, you can know as soon as they take an LS430 on trade. That's how I got mine and mine was in killer shape, all records, etc.
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jacobm3 (06-21-18)
#14
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Yeah, best that you walk away. If you see the one at Fall Creek out in Humble on CL, make sure you avoid that one also.
If you can be patient, the right one will come along. I've got a contact at Westside Lexus if you're interested. That way, you can know as soon as they take an LS430 on trade. That's how I got mine and mine was in killer shape, all records, etc.
If you can be patient, the right one will come along. I've got a contact at Westside Lexus if you're interested. That way, you can know as soon as they take an LS430 on trade. That's how I got mine and mine was in killer shape, all records, etc.
#15
I've been texting with the indie dealer today while I was traveling and they said they allow mechanics to come onsite to do inspections but they don't let the cars leave to the mechanic's shop. They just want the mechanic to come with their own jacks and jack stands and do a PPI onsite, in the Houston heat, under a jackstand. Yeah right.
Their lame excuse was that a mechanic will have a conflict of interest and write a long list of findings to generate work for themselves. Eventually they agreed to an in-shop inspection with the caveat that I won't use their findings to negotiate on price. Ridiculous. Feels like I'm negotiating with a teenager.
Needless to say, that guy is in the wrong line of work if he's afraid of negotiating after a PPI. I'm going to walk away from this one on general principle, even though it might be a good LS for me.
Needless to say, that guy is in the wrong line of work if he's afraid of negotiating after a PPI. I'm going to walk away from this one on general principle, even though it might be a good LS for me.