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There was someone here that recently upgraded his lines to SS (I would love to do that)....I know with my Maxima the rubber deteriorated, and fluid could be pushed into the caliper, but couldn't drain back, causing a binding situation...is your fluid dark/black? I bought the Toyota adapter to use with my Motive, but have not exchanged my fluid yet, it's gold and has about 25k on it...coming up on 2 yrs. though...
Yup, that was me upgraded all of the brake lines to SS from Stoptech, love the brake pedal feel.
This before changing the line...
After...rear
Front....
compare the OEM vs Stoptech banjo bolts brake fluid hole passage, what a different.
Yup, that was me upgraded all of the brake lines to SS from Stoptech, love the brake pedal feel.
This before changing the line...
After...rear
Front....
compare the OEM vs Stoptech banjo bolts brake fluid hole passage, what a different.
Just experiencing what happened when my Maxima's front right rubber line deteriorated on the inside (fluid flowed in, couldn't not get back out), I can only imagine how much better SS is over rubber....
Just experiencing what happened when my Maxima's front right rubber line deteriorated on the inside (fluid flowed in, couldn't not get back out), I can only imagine how much better SS is over rubber....
You should do it! You will be glad once the LS swabbed to SS brake line! If you have the motive pump and adapter...then it's so easy to bleed out the air and flush the system at the same time., brake fluid are cheap since you do it yourself (saved the big labor $$$$). At the end of the day...you will be so glad and enjoy the ride more and more.
I was so bumped out that my wife's 18 years old Solara brake performance are so much better even with ALL oem brake lines, now after the SS line installed then I can totally appreciate the Brembo style brake performance on the LS.
You should do it! You will be glad once the LS swabbed to SS brake line! If you have the motive pump and adapter...then it's so easy to bleed out the air and flush the system at the same time., brake fluid are cheap since you do it yourself (saved the big labor $$$$). At the end of the day...you will be so glad and enjoy the ride more and more.
I was so bumped out that my wife's 18 years old Solara brake performance are so much better even with ALL oem brake lines, now after the SS line installed then I can totally appreciate the Brembo style brake performance on the LS.
I'm such a chicken where I am not afraid to replace a caliper, yet I am afraid to undo the other end of the brake line, for fear of breaking it and needing to flare a new line. Yet, I took out my ABS pump in the BMW, and shipped it for repair. Even the shop told me who fixed the Maxima, you are more than capable of replacing the hose, but if you want us to do it, we'll take your money...chicken!! lol
Sounds like your abs system is having malfunctions then? Only other explanation the abs pump or something in the system is not functioning properly.
imho shouldn't be, because I have not seen issues here on the forum (whereas BMW it's quite common, i.e. repair services all over the place where they make them better than new i.e. correct the design flaw). Also, ABS is a fail safe system, where you get a warning, and the system disables itself and you have regular brakes...i.e. there should be a warning/codes when something is wrong with it...
imho shouldn't be, because I have not seen issues here on the forum (whereas BMW it's quite common, i.e. repair services all over the place where they make them better than new i.e. correct the design flaw). Also, ABS is a fail safe system, where you get a warning, and the system disables itself and you have regular brakes...i.e. there should be a warning/codes when something is wrong with it...
The abs system will only throw a code if there is no brake pressure or there is a problem with a sensor attached to the hub. If the abs pump was malfunctioning its not going to give a warning light.
Its also going to give a juddering/shaking feeling like warped or mess up rotors that the op described.
The abs system will only throw a code if there is no brake pressure or there is a problem with a sensor attached to the hub. If the abs pump was malfunctioning its not going to give a warning light.
I can only speak for BMW and codes.....ABS not functioning is yellow (and oddly cruise is disabled)....total brake failure is red. Codes are stored to direct the tech to wheel speed sensors, or the pump itself (for example I got the infamous 5DF1 and 5DF0 indicating pump failure). Brakes still worked, just no anti-lock. Same with Maxima but I could not read the codes because I didn't have a OBD2 capable (I bought one but it did not work, costed almost $200 and was supposed to handle). Obviously shop could read the codes and told me RF wheel sensor. I would think the LS is the same, but I have no tools to read the Lexus. With BMW I have the dealer software. (google 5DF0 and you'll see how common this $4,200 failure is with BMW, which is why you can get it fixed for $249 (at least in 2016 and guaranteed 5 yrs.). With Nissan, good luck, might be $4k or used pump. I saw mid 2k Maximas did have $4k repairs...
So, thanks again to you all, we'll start with the complete fluid change tomorrow, get eventual air out and I'm
looking for ss-lines (seems, I don't get stoptech in Austria, but other brands),
they are never a mistake
The pads and rotors are oem, and looking perfect, inside and outside (had the wheels off yesterday,
plugging in led-blinkers and led-foglight) - thats the problem, they are smooth and dont show any wear.
Had rotors on other cars, looking like ****** and doing well.
The lugnuts are screwed with the right and same torque (sorry for my 2nd-class-english)
Changing to stainless-steel-braided lines (the inside of the line is PTFE aka Teflon) will not do anything for pedal vibration, and neither will a brake fluid change. SS lines are often mistakes - google stainless steel brake line failures or aftermarket brake line failures and you'll see many stories of these lines blowing out on the racetrack and other situations, which can obviously be fatal. StopTech is a reputable brand, many other brands are not.
The LS430 service manual specifies that the maximum disc runout from 10mm inside the outer edge of the disc is 0.05mm. There is no way you can visually see a 0.05mm thickness variation. Get yourself a dial indicator and measure the front wheel bearings for axial play, and measure both front discs. If your bearings are loose, you'll need to replace them. Otherwise, you need to check the installation of your new discs - ensure that every speck of dirt is cleaned from where the rotor touches the hub.
If the runout exceeds 0.05mm, take the rotor off, rotate to the next lugnut, reinstall and remeasure. Repeat the rotation across the 5 lugnuts and use the position having the lowest runout measurement, assuming it is less than 0.05mm. If runout is >0.05mm at all positions, install at the lowest runout position and then have both front discs machined using an on-car lathe (off-car lathes do not compensate for wheel bearings).
While some people reuse the caliper bolts even though they are a non-reusable part, since you have a problem, you should be using new bolts. Front caliper bolts are 81 ft-lbf, and you need to tighten the lower bolt first, top bolt second (and clear out all debris from the threads before tightening). Always torque wheel lugs to 76 ft-lbf using a star pattern.
fascinating, did not know runout has to be measured on the hub. What would cause it, corrosion? I know with my wife's SUV, a common issue on vibration is that the wheels get balanced normally. GM specifically states that lug centric balancing must be performed (this implies the hole for the hub is not necessarily true I guess). I asked Costco and he showed me they know, and have all the adapters..
08-06-18, 11:09 AM
