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when I bought my LS from a friend, brakes and pads were in good condition - but there was vibration,
when braking. He got new rotors and pads, before i took him. But now, after around 1000, 1500 mls,
it starts a light, but noticeable vibration again....
I let the brakes "break in", never stopped hard, never!
anyone an idea? Btw tyres are new, so the rims can't cause it...
I've researched this topic over many years and multiple cars. Done brake jobs on my own, observed. Even stupidly bedded my brakes with OE BMW rotors/pads--what a stupid move encouraged by the forum. The brakes got so hot you could smell them and the color was bluish! Stupid. Live and learn. 80-0 repeated stops, dumb! I think 6X!
Anyway, I am of the camp that pads can definitely deposit material on rotors, AND, rotors can have said deposits removed unevenly (debris, sticking, etc.), especially on the inside surface of floating calipers (which we do not have). Now, the surface is unsmooth and can create a pulsation. My LS430 had a brake pulsation when I bought it used--the dealership agreed to make things right by using OE Lexus parts (it was a GMC dealer). I got the old rotors back and can see they are cheap aftermarket, which they turned prior to me asking for new OE. The OE now has about 27k on them and no pulsation. Could your brake job have been done with aftermarket parts? That would be my first question.
Can you see the surface of the rotors, do they look smooth? These are mine at about 26.5k--note the crust on the vanes and where the pads do not sweep. Toyota OE do not seem to be rust free like BMW or GM or Chrysler (they use a baking process in an oven and a chemical reaction called FNC--the rotors appear white/gray as a result and really resist rust)
"...light, but noticeable vibration" can simply be caused by uneven tightening of the lug nuts (use a torque wrench to confirm), or debris trapped between the rotor and the wheel hub (use a wire brush to clean mating surfaces).
The pads and rotors are oem, and looking perfect, inside and outside (had the wheels off yesterday,
plugging in led-blinkers and led-foglight) - thats the problem, they are smooth and dont show any wear.
Had rotors on other cars, looking like ****** and doing well.
The lugnuts are screwed with the right and same torque (sorry for my 2nd-class-english)
Again, if the parts are factory OE I'd try to see what warranty applies (maybe parts). But if not OE, not all that unusual or surprising.
btw...I had to run out and come back, and when I came back in to the office, a colleague said he needs 4 brakes on his LX570, but the dealer is too much. I didn't even want to ask--this is a high margin job. A person can go to a muffler shop/chain tire store, and feel "good" that they get quoted $300 per axle and down to $230 with coupons. The irony is $20 retail rotors are used, i.e. $10 to the shop. Or, go to the dealer and often get quoted $600+ per axle. imho, the parts matter. So if DIY, try to use the best parts you can afford. It is not out of the ordinary in the northeast to need new brakes every 1-2 yrs. if you go to a muffler shop and take the "lifetime" deal. It is intended for you to return for life, paying labor and parts other than pads...
p.s. I see you responded while I typed the above. Can you see the inside surface as well, to be smooth? On my wife's SUV, the outside was perfectly smooth, the inside had that thing going on where the window swept was tiny, the rest rough, BUT NO pulsation....there are so many possibilities...
as I wrote above, ive checked the inside - looking and feeling great
I'm "sparetime-mechanic", into the theme, brakes are no mystery for me (owned a a 500hp
Nissan 300ZX, were i done 350z-Brembo-brakes myself), but this case is wierd,
they look perfect but suck with vibs...
the only thing, I can't say is, if brake fluid was made new...
Just called my friend and pre-owner (for a year), he said, he didnt change the fluid, as a service
was made from the Lexus-dealer, before he purchased it...
There was someone here that recently upgraded his lines to SS (I would love to do that)....I know with my Maxima the rubber deteriorated, and fluid could be pushed into the caliper, but couldn't drain back, causing a binding situation...is your fluid dark/black? I bought the Toyota adapter to use with my Motive, but have not exchanged my fluid yet, it's gold and has about 25k on it...coming up on 2 yrs. though...
Will check the fluid color on wednesday, but will change it anyway...
Do you own a newer Maxima? In Austria, they werent sold anymore, after A33
I own a 98 A32 with the 3.0 v6
Mine is a 1998 as well....it's funny, seems like all roads lead back to a Maxima at some point, they were great cars back then! Mine has been killed by rust, it's a shame, I often have wondered if I were able to garage it, would it be better.....at least I do remember my wife driving it daily in 2009, and rust had just begun, in the rear right (where the T for the power antenna always breaks and water pools as a result)....actually, I bought the LS430 in 10/16 looking to find another Japanese car that could fill its shoes for reliability--I think I did find it!
Good upgrade! Love the Maxima, had a little rust in the rear arches, could stop it.
115t miles and doing well! Actually its my winter car, but im looking good after it,
want to keep it "forever"
Just started building a -sleeper- 94 micra (P11-150hp engine swap planned), maybe then this one will be my winterdaily ^^
Are the calipers bolted on all the way if the bolts were coming out and the calipers are floppen around like a frog in a sock that would give you a vibration when braking. The bolts are also aluminum they could be stretched threads, crossthreaded, or stripped making the caliper move causing vibration.
08-05-18, 08:57 PM
FL front brake vibration
