Has anyone successfully solved their LS430 steering clunk?
01-31-23, 10:40 PM
#16
If you are feeling the little clunks when you wiggle the steering then Follow the instructions above. My post.
I’ve done it twice in same car. Remove the 45870 and put heavy grease on both spline.
I’ve done it twice in same car. Remove the 45870 and put heavy grease on both spline.
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captainva (02-01-23)
02-02-23, 08:57 PM
#18
Put grease in the splines on part 45210. It is two pieces separated in the middle; you can see one side labeled 2 and the other labeled 3.
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captainva (02-03-23)
05-15-24, 02:19 PM
#19
Instructor
I resolved my clunk by DIY replacing my front LH upper control arm with a Mevotech Supreme, UCA, Sport Package, Limited Lifetime Warranty (CMS86195), and front LH stabilizer bar link with Lexus part 48820-50020 (and note correct placement of the metal washers).
What did not resolve the clunk was DIY replacing my inner and outer tie rods and lower ball joints, but they needed replacing anyway because they were very loose from many years of potholed roads and too loose for my tire shop to even attempt an alignment.
What also did not resolve the clunk was DIY replacing my LCA bushings with the new RC-F/GS-F ones (48075-24010, 48076-24010), but seemed to marginally improve handling. I also noticed that my front LH LCA bushing was installed incorrectly at the factory (nipple was pointing 180 degrees the wrong way).
Note that you should properly pre-load the UCA before tightening the bolts - meaning adjust the height of the UCA such that it matches regular ride height before tightening the bolts. This will ensure your bushings last as long as possible, instead of being in a constantly-flexed state during normal ride height. A very long and thin 14mm box wrench will fit between the air cylinder with the car fully lowered.
Same with the upper nut on the stabilizer bar links - you should tighten them up with the car fully on the ground so that the bushings are not flexed in their natural resting state. It's hard to line up the upper hole when the car is lifted anyway. You can tighten the bottom nut while the wheels are off, and to do it without the bolt spinning, you need a 6mm wrench or a narrow head adjustable crescent wrench on the flattened edge of the bolt, and then use a 17mm wrench or another narrow head crescent wrench to hand-tighten to 41 ft-lbf.
What did not resolve the clunk was DIY replacing my inner and outer tie rods and lower ball joints, but they needed replacing anyway because they were very loose from many years of potholed roads and too loose for my tire shop to even attempt an alignment.
What also did not resolve the clunk was DIY replacing my LCA bushings with the new RC-F/GS-F ones (48075-24010, 48076-24010), but seemed to marginally improve handling. I also noticed that my front LH LCA bushing was installed incorrectly at the factory (nipple was pointing 180 degrees the wrong way).
Note that you should properly pre-load the UCA before tightening the bolts - meaning adjust the height of the UCA such that it matches regular ride height before tightening the bolts. This will ensure your bushings last as long as possible, instead of being in a constantly-flexed state during normal ride height. A very long and thin 14mm box wrench will fit between the air cylinder with the car fully lowered.
Same with the upper nut on the stabilizer bar links - you should tighten them up with the car fully on the ground so that the bushings are not flexed in their natural resting state. It's hard to line up the upper hole when the car is lifted anyway. You can tighten the bottom nut while the wheels are off, and to do it without the bolt spinning, you need a 6mm wrench or a narrow head adjustable crescent wrench on the flattened edge of the bolt, and then use a 17mm wrench or another narrow head crescent wrench to hand-tighten to 41 ft-lbf.
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