help sub woofer
09-06-18, 11:58 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
help sub woofer
Are there things you can do to help the sub woofer ? I see a lot of people replacing them , just wondering tips or pointers to help preserve it , maybe like not cranking the music too loud , or in the winter wait till the cabin warms up/ or in the heat of summer while that sun is baking on the rear dash raise the sunshade up to help block the hot rays of the sun ..Anybody else have more tips to help certain components doesn't just have to be the subwoofer , like the folding mirrors I turn the off and use ocassionally
09-07-18, 06:08 AM
#2
Instructor
For the sub woofer, keeping your car out of the sun is definitely going to help some but the foam is not the best in the world and you'll probably have to deal with it at some point if you keep the car long enough. Good news is that you can repair it for $20 and it's pretty easy to do so. Do a search and you'll find links on how to get to the sub without removing the rear seat.
Auto folding mirrors....that's an option I personally leave on all the time.
Auto folding mirrors....that's an option I personally leave on all the time.
09-07-18, 06:28 AM
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thank you Caverman , hopefully I will not have to so soon , mine is a 2005 sounds great so far .let me ask if the sub woofer does get bad I will still have sound correct? I see people on the forum stating no sound that's usually when the Amp goes correct? Also you said you leave on your mirrors , have you had any issues with those?
09-07-18, 07:59 AM
#4
Instructor
You'll still have sound it just won't have any bass and when there are bass notes it will sound like it's rattling or buzzing. Both my '04 and '05 had a blown sub and the '04 I got from a friend who kept his car in the garage a majority of the time. So, year model doesn't have much to do with it.
If the amp goes you'll have no sound at all.
No issues with my mirrors on either car so far.
If the amp goes you'll have no sound at all.
No issues with my mirrors on either car so far.
09-07-18, 09:44 AM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Here’s a link to the write-up on how to replace/repair the existing ML sub without removing the backseat and all the panels involved:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...t-removal.html
This is a project I plan to tackle and go with the 8” Polk Audio DB to replace it. There’s a video on YouTube with the complete process, including how to wire up the sub to convert it to 8 OHMS.
The downside of NOT removing the backseat is you won’t be able to cover the holes in the deck with sound deadener, better sealing and improving the bass. I’d say if you’re just going to repair the sub though, don’t remove the backseat. Cutting out the deck won’t be visible once the cover is placed back on, multiple users reported getting the job done in less than 30 minutes going this route whereas it’s an hour to a few hours to remove the backseat, panels, etc.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...t-removal.html
This is a project I plan to tackle and go with the 8” Polk Audio DB to replace it. There’s a video on YouTube with the complete process, including how to wire up the sub to convert it to 8 OHMS.
The downside of NOT removing the backseat is you won’t be able to cover the holes in the deck with sound deadener, better sealing and improving the bass. I’d say if you’re just going to repair the sub though, don’t remove the backseat. Cutting out the deck won’t be visible once the cover is placed back on, multiple users reported getting the job done in less than 30 minutes going this route whereas it’s an hour to a few hours to remove the backseat, panels, etc.
09-08-18, 04:41 PM
#6
Got a link to the video? I'll be doing the same thing and was concerned about getting correct ohms with an aftermarket sub.
09-08-18, 07:30 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
He’s also the only one I’ve seen that cut the plastic bracket off the ML sub versus cutting the Polk Audio sub itself, also going to go this route instead.
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09-09-18, 05:54 PM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Looks like Fry’s and BestBuy carries them, most likely going to pick one up this week and try. I’m installing the BT45-TOY so might as well wrap up the audio all in one day.
09-10-18, 08:39 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Turns out Best Buy and Fry’s only carry the single voice coil. I went ahead and ordered it off Amazon, part number DB842DVC. It was $79.99 with 2 day shipping, should be here Wednesday. I also order some trim removal tools and got some 14 gauge speaker wire.
I read more and more on this swap, consensus is sound deadening the holes makes the biggest impact so I’m going to remove the rear seat so I can do so.
I’ll post up once it’s all done, going to remove everything and get the bracket off the ML sub tomorrow so once the new sub arrives all I’ll have to do is bridge it, attach the factory plug and then put it all back together.
I’ll post up how it goes, my ML sub is completely blown so unfortunately I can’t compare it to stock since I never heard it. From what I understand as long as the speakers are working the amp is, so I shouldn’t have any issues. Also read on another post the amp puts out about 70ish watts RMS in case that helps anyone else.
I read more and more on this swap, consensus is sound deadening the holes makes the biggest impact so I’m going to remove the rear seat so I can do so.
I’ll post up once it’s all done, going to remove everything and get the bracket off the ML sub tomorrow so once the new sub arrives all I’ll have to do is bridge it, attach the factory plug and then put it all back together.
I’ll post up how it goes, my ML sub is completely blown so unfortunately I can’t compare it to stock since I never heard it. From what I understand as long as the speakers are working the amp is, so I shouldn’t have any issues. Also read on another post the amp puts out about 70ish watts RMS in case that helps anyone else.
09-11-18, 03:57 AM
#12
Pit Crew
09-11-18, 10:12 AM
#13
09-11-18, 02:52 PM
#14
Pit Crew
The only modification that would be needed is to separate the original frame that sandwiches the Mark Levinson subwoofer. You need that frame to hold the Dayton subwoofer down. And you also need to solder new wire between the subwoofer voice coils correctly for series to get 16 ohms. After that you just plunk it in there, hook it up, and screw the original frame on top of the Dayton subwoofer and it should be good to go.
Sounds perfectly fine to me. I never got a chance to listen to the original Mark Levinson subwoofer since it was broken when i purchased the vehicle.
Sounds perfectly fine to me. I never got a chance to listen to the original Mark Levinson subwoofer since it was broken when i purchased the vehicle.
09-12-18, 06:57 PM
#15
Driver School Candidate
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