CA2WALS430

Thanks again to both of you. Sorry about the ohm mistake, I thought they were low ohm.
Uggh, looked at a video to get to the sub, frankly the amp looks easier; just don't like pulling that rear deck liner. I won't go too far because I bought this from the original owner and just having met him......yeah, he would not have let anybody near that stereo system. I'll get back on here later, not sure if I will attack it tonight or wait for the weekend.

alextv

Look at a video that shows not having to pull the rear deck liner or remove seats. You can cut holes where the screws are and never be seen to remove subwoofer but to just check the resistance you can do it at the subwoofer plug or the plug at the amp.

BigBoomer

You just have to pop the cover off the Sub to see if the foam has died and you can also get at the connector. No need to pull the shelf.
As Alex says, the easiest way to remove the Sub is to cut away the shelf where the bolts are.
The cover still hides that so nothing to be seen once the cover is popped on again.
I do find it funny that people are loathe to cut the shelf on a 20 year old car <LOL>.

CA2WALS430

Oh yeah, the cover. Well the decking piece, or actually I found as @alextv said, it is called the package tray (hah, had no idea...I would never throw a package up there) is not cheap or easily obtained and like you said it is 20 years old. This car has been mostly garage kept and always had tint on the windows but still, afraid to bend, tear, or crease it.

New twist and I read this on another thread but I can't remember now....my nav functions are all fine, but the buttons aren't beeping. Also, the center console does not light up when I turn on the parking lights. That has been a very intermittent and slow developing problem over the years, but usually a whack on the side and the lights would come on. No longer. The console lighting may be unrelated, but I think the loss of button beeping is connected. Plot thickening.

Alex, when I mentioned having driver and passenger doors done, I meant I paid a shop to do the foam surrounds, but no speaker swaps.

I'll be in touch, but its 8 am here in Utah, and you know, time to actually work so I can pay for this crap.

CA2WALS430

You guys would be so proud of me; I got the speaker cover off! haha. The condition is great, actually the foam ring feels remarkably soft and supple, so I don't anticipate that needing to be done. I don't own and ohm tester.
Now when I first turn on the system, I don't get the 1-2 second audio anymore, the sub will usually crack once, whether audio is on or off.
Disc/radio/nav all work fine but buttons aren't beeping.
Drove this morning and center console lights did come on after a minute, so I think that is unrelated.
There is recommended guy who can't look at it until later next week, but man I am tempted to just buy a refurb amp....maybe I should hold off.

alextv

For me because I have all electronic test equipment like signal tracer etc I would fully diagnose the problem. For you it sounds a lot like the amp so to save a step to try an amp might be a good move. For your sub to be in good shape is amazing if has not been replaced as my 2001 always garaged and use rear shade deteriorated several years ago.

CA2WALS430

Thanks, Alex. I think before I plunk down the cash and risk a no-return situation, I should:
a) lay down under the sub in the trunk and visually verify it was not swapped (I've had car 4-1/2 years so seems like it would have shown problems before now)
b) try to take rear passenger side door panel off and investigation something rattling when I shut the door. The panel was removed for some body work in October. I read on another thread something like what you said, the system is designed to shut itself down if there is an incorrect flow of impedence. All speakers should be original.
c) still would like to investigate some fuses up front in the passenger compartment.

Then I am sure the guy next week has that test equipment you do, or you could fly out this weekend. The flight's on you but I will get dinner and a hotel night for you. @BigBoomer , same deal? Can't afford you both though.

BigBoomer

Errrrr, not likely. I would want at least Business class for an 11hr flight and that's gonna cost $5000. <LOL>

AndrewJo

I have the same problem, how did you fix it?

CA2WALS430

@AndrewJo , if you click on Cajunrosa's profile, you will see that they had 1 post ever and their last activity was in 2019, so not likely they are still here Also, if you read the whole thread you will find most problems lead to the amp in these cars. Also if you Google "LS430 no sound" you will get 2 or 3 other threads confirming.

Now, ​​​​​@alextv and @BigBoomer , I have new developments. I lost patience trying to schedule with the local guy (and I found out all he was going to do is send my amp out) so I ordered a refurb amp from ebay. Place has 100% good reviews with hundreds sold. I just ordered on Saturday. THEN.....today, Memorial Day in the USA, exactly 2 weeks since it went boom and croaked, beautiful and very warm here in Utah.....I come out of the grocery store at about 1:30 PM.....my stereo roars to life clear as a bell with sub fully engaged, and yes, all my nav buttons beep again.

Any ideas? Should I assume I still need the amp, or should I cancel the order? Or are we talking about a different problem altogether now? Thanks, gents.

BigBoomer

Sounds to me like you have a bad connection or a broken wire somewhere.
Could also be a bad connection on the circuit board.
I would fit the refurb Amp regardless.

LS430Lexus

United Radio, in upstate New York is the most trusted repair facility for these amps. You should be able to find them with a Google search. My suggestion is to give them a call tomorrow, tell them what has been happening and ask for their advice. Based on your symtoms, they may have an idea whether it is the amp or wiring. You can also send them the amp and they will test it. If it's bad they will give you an estimate. If not. possibly a small diagnostic fee. Either way, you will know. I believe the going rate for amp repair is currently $700.

CA2WALS430

Hi @LS430Lexus , good to see you. That may be where the local place is thinking to send it. That is steep though, wow. The refurb amp was $475 and then you get a $125 credit back when you ship your defective core back. So $350 and you only pay shipping one time; they pick up the return.

@BigBoomer , mine is an 04. Are you thinking this is yet another 2004 RoHS crappy no-lead solder situation? I sent my whole NAV unit out 3 years to have all the connections redone, but is it possible now the connections in the amp are failing? Car amps live a tough life. I mentioned the warmth on purpose; do you think that was any factor? Loosened the connections to where they made contact again? But what would have caused the 'thump'? I wasn't in a turn and I don't really have anything in my trunk. It has been doing a little thump everyday when i start the car, but today it did that and then all turned on anyway.

BigBoomer

@BigBoomer , mine is an 04. Are you thinking this is yet another 2004 RoHS crappy no-lead solder situation? I sent my whole NAV unit out 3 years to have all the connections redone, but is it possible now the connections in the amp are failing? Car amps live a tough life. I mentioned the warmth on purpose; do you think that was any factor? Loosened the connections to where they made contact again? But what would have caused the 'thump'? I wasn't in a turn and I don't really have anything in my trunk. It has been doing a little thump everyday when i start the car, but today it did that and then all turned on anyway.[/QUOTE]

It could be that the "thump" is from the Subwoofer when the amp gets power.

Yes, it is likely it is another lead-free solder situation.
Every time the amp is powered up it heats up and when powered down it cools, so eventually the solder cracks.
Solder with lead in it is more flexible and tends not to crack.
Newer lead-free solders have additives to enhance flexibility but when the LS430 was built they were new and comparatively untested.

Yes, the warmth could be causing a crack to close up and make contact again, hence the working amp again.
When I worked in electronics one of my test tools was a "freezer spray" that would cool down parts of a circuit board to find out in what area the problem was.

CA2WALS430

It could be that the "thump" is from the Subwoofer when the amp gets power.

Yes, it is likely it is another lead-free solder situation.
Every time the amp is powered up it heats up and when powered down it cools, so eventually the solder cracks.
Solder with lead in it is more flexible and tends not to crack.
Newer lead-free solders have additives to enhance flexibility but when the LS430 was built they were new and comparatively untested.

Yes, the warmth could be causing a crack to close up and make contact again, hence the working amp again.
When I worked in electronics one of my test tools was a "freezer spray" that would cool down parts of a circuit board to find out in what area the problem was.[/QUOTE]

Soooo, you're saying I'm brilliant? Couldn't agree more! Seriously though, thank you! I did ask those questions because of other posts of yours I have read. You're the bomb, Boom! The amp arrives Saturday and I think I can do it. I won't report back for a while, give it time to test.