Originally Posted by sha4000

Thanks, those are some nice clear pics.

Originally Posted by Longmire

This is all awesome information, thank you!

I will eventually have to replace the steering rack, and I'm a little worried about doing the job. I know this is nothing compared to what you've done, but how difficult would this job be? I don't have to drop the frame or anything, right?

Originally Posted by 911LE

If anyone is interested I will disassemble my old oil pump and post pics.

Originally Posted by 911LE

Got the car started last week. Runs great and is quiet again with NO OIL LEAKS! New oil pump puts out 90 psi at idle on a cold start. Once fully warm it puts out 30 psi at idle (book says over 4.3 is good) and 82 psi at 3k rpms (book says 43-85 psi). If anyone is interested I will disassemble my old oil pump and post pics.

Originally Posted by 911LE

Worked on the car for a bit today. Here pics of the engine with the oil pump and pans removed.


Here you can see how sloppy the factory installed the fipg. The bead actually bridged the oil return holes and was barely touching the block.

Here's a pic of the drains on the side of the block for changing coolant. There is one on each side.

Here's where the motor mount bolts to the block with 4 bolts. It is not necessary to remove them but my driver's side was in 2 pieces.

Here's the motor mount still installed on the passengers side.

I cleaned all the gasket surfaces with razor blades and brake cleaner. I then began to install the oil pump by putting a new o-ring in the block. I installed a new crank seal and greased the lip. I then applied fipg as called for in the manual. I used the new black stuff that has a 15 minute working time instead of the 5 minute working time of the superceded gray stuff. The rolling key that comes with it is awesome and makes it really easy to apply evenly.



The 8 bolts holding the pump were installed and torqued.

I then cleaned and installed the oil pickup tube with a new gasket.


I cleaned and reinstalled the upper oil pan. There are 18 bolts (4 different sizes) and 2 nuts that hold it in place. I like that Toyota uses a few studs with nuts in an application like this as it makes lining up the pan easier and the nuts are easier to start. I then cleaned and installed the baffle plate with 4 bolts and 2 nuts.

Next I cleaned and installed the lower oil pan with the 13 bolts and 2 nuts. Both oil pans were sealed with the black fipg.

I then reinstalled the oil level sensor on the driver's side with and new gasket and 4 bolts. The dipstick tube was reinstalled as well.


I reinstalled the torque converter cover with 2 bolts. This cover hides the 2 rearmost upper oil pan bolts. I also reinstalled the 4 lower bell housing bolts that bolt to the upper oil pan from the rear. I then installed the driver's side motor mount.

I then reinstalled the transmission cooler line brackets. There are 3 on the passengers side.



Next was reinstalling the frame member and steering rack. I slid the rack onto the studs on the frame and just started the nuts. I then lifted the passengers side of the frame up and slid into on to the front lower control arm bushing. I had to get creative and used a rachet strap to pull the frame on to the arm enough to get the bolt in. I then used a jack to lift the driver's side of the frame up. I pulled the control arm out of the way as I lifted. Once that control arm bolt was started I slowly lifted the frame from the center and lined everything up. There are locating pins on the frame member and the motor mounts. Once everything was lined up I reinstalled the frame bolts and snugged them down. I torqued the front and rear bolts. I then lowered the engine on to the frame and reinstalled the motor mount nuts. Connect the power steering lines and reattach them to the oil pan with the 2 bolts. Reinstall the tie rod ends on to the spindles and reinstall the wheels. I then lifted the front of the car and put ramps under the front tires. Lower it down so the suspension is loaded and then torque the front lower control arm camber bolts. Fill the power steering reservoir. Fill the engine with oil and install the dipstick. Start the engine and look for leaks. I would let the fipg cure for at least a day before I added oil.