HOW TO: Single-DIN Head Unit & Amp in LS430 with factory Nav/ML - no adapters needed
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ls430w140 (03-29-20)
#17
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#18
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I regret buying the Grom and not finding your thread first now... damnit...
But at the same time Grom works well...but this was exactly what I was looking to do...
The other alternative was to get a Audio Control LC7i and amp with sub setup...
But at the same time Grom works well...but this was exactly what I was looking to do...
The other alternative was to get a Audio Control LC7i and amp with sub setup...
#19
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Baoser (12-23-18)
#20
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Aren't the factory speakers 8 ohms and how are you powering the in-dash speakers as well as the tweeters?
What speakers are you actually powering?
Couldn't the Grom work in conjunction with an aftermarket radio for screen share?
What speakers are you actually powering?
Couldn't the Grom work in conjunction with an aftermarket radio for screen share?
#21
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I'm powering all the speakers. To power the front tweeters and the front door speakers, wire them in parallel. If the tweeters and door speakers are 8 ohms then the amp sees 4 ohms.
As for the GROM - no idea what it can or can't do, didn't look into it. As I stated in the OP:
Why?
My ML amp died, and I did not want to spend $600+ to repair/refurbish it when I could spend less and upgrade to a modern head unit with full bluetooth functionality and amplify the speakers with proper wattage. I wanted a traditional single-din unit which would be mounted in place of the factory CD changer to keep a stock/stealth appearance.
Last edited by edl415; 02-13-19 at 06:59 AM.
#22
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Great write up. This is the way I'm going to go. Question on the tweeters. You just hooked the wires from the harness to the same channels as the front door speakers? Is there crossovers hidden somewhere or was it built into the factory amp. I was thinking I would replace the door and tweeters with components. Hide the crossovers in the dash somewhere. Is the wire sizing big enough to handle bigger speakers?
I've only had the car a few months and the amp is going. Cuts out sometimes for no reason. My sub needs replacing as it's rattling. Was thinking head unit, amp and sub for starters
My navigation says disk error. Is there anything you can replace it with for a decent price or should I just try an ebay DVD
I've only had the car a few months and the amp is going. Cuts out sometimes for no reason. My sub needs replacing as it's rattling. Was thinking head unit, amp and sub for starters
My navigation says disk error. Is there anything you can replace it with for a decent price or should I just try an ebay DVD
#24
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Question on the tweeters. You just hooked the wires from the harness to the same channels as the front door speakers? Is there crossovers hidden somewhere or was it built into the factory amp. I was thinking I would replace the door and tweeters with components. Hide the crossovers in the dash somewhere. Is the wire sizing big enough to handle bigger speakers?
If you're going components and want to be 100% just install the crossover in the trunk and then use the factory wiring from there on out. I don't know if the wiring is big enough for aftermarket speakers, I didn't change them. The factory speakers sound pretty decent with quality amplification. Now, since it was all apart I did pre-wire my car from the trunk to the front footwells just in case I wanted to change speakers in the future.
My navigation says disk error. Is there anything you can replace it with for a decent price or should I just try an ebay DVD
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Last edited by edl415; 03-03-19 at 07:00 AM.
#26
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Subwoofer - easy, you're already there. Just do this one so you won't have to do it later.
Door speakers - you can run new wires or reuse factory. I think you can buy adapters to convert factory plugs to standard connectors - google Metra 72-8104.
Front dash tweeters - lots of work to get to them. If you're going components I would suggest using the factory tweeters and putting your crossovers in the trunk, or putting the aftermarket tweeters by your mirror/a-pillar.
#27
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It’s not worth keeping the dash tweeters if you go aftermarket speakers (believe me, I did it). Your only bet if you want to go that route is to get the highest quality coaxial speakers and mount them in the doors and bypass the dash tweeters altogether. That is, unless you are willing to take the dash apart to get to them then the world is yours.
#29
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I’m way too ocd to have two sets of tweeters and that visible wire. But that probably does sound the best
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