Handling/Ride Problems - Do I need new struts?
#17
BTW, I am leery of aftermarket short of Bilstein, Koni, etc. (which are basically upgrades to BMW etc.), who don't make products for our car anyway (meaning I'd go OE only on the LS). On my Maxima, we DIY'd Monroe quick struts on the front (never ever ever ever use a quick product on any car--these are intended to allow shops to not compress the spring and save time and charge you the same), and KYB on the rear. The vehicle had like 190k at the time. The ride was horrible ever since. The front was jacked up like a Subaru as if the height was not correct. One of the 6 tower bolts was stripped right out of the box, UGH!
As mentioned, in PA, leaks mean fail on the annual safety. My wife's GM had this happen at only 65k, and I was having that gold chain muffler shop do it. They said you need new struts and I said how much? $1,100 (American car go figure). I said ok, what products do you use? "Gabriel or Monroe." Hold up, don't do anything--I just need a sec but I think I'm gonna tell you to drop the car. I logged in online, and oddly found her GMPP extended warranty covered struts but not shocks (that warranty covered more than it did not cover, unlike BMW--example, captain's chair covered), so we took it to the dealer. Also in PA the place that fails you, also passes you when you bring it back to reinspect, regardless of if they did the work or not.
#18
Thanks for the info - tires are new as of 10k ago (P7s), but nothing else (bushings, struts, etc.) has ever been changed. The car tracks very well, so I think I can rule out the alignment as well. I think I'm going to address the bushings and the sway bars with my mechanic.
Thanks everyone!
Thanks everyone!
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boggie557 (06-30-20)
#20
Just for comparison, my LS (04 119K miles) had all 4 replaced by previous owner right before I bought it. He said one of the struts has develop a leak. From what I can tell, the last 2/3 year before I bought it this past summer, the car was driven very little due to the owner having some health problem.
#21
I am truly curious/not trying to start argument here, why do you think struts do not deteriorate in LS as quickly as in other car/setup? It seems to me after 12 years and 100K miles struts should be close to the end of its usable life.
Just for comparison, my LS (04 119K miles) had all 4 replaced by previous owner right before I bought it. He said one of the struts has develop a leak. From what I can tell, the last 2/3 year before I bought it this past summer, the car was driven very little due to the owner having some health problem.
Just for comparison, my LS (04 119K miles) had all 4 replaced by previous owner right before I bought it. He said one of the struts has develop a leak. From what I can tell, the last 2/3 year before I bought it this past summer, the car was driven very little due to the owner having some health problem.
Also, on the first LS430 I looked at, it was a 2005 with high 70's for mileage. The dealer had replaced both shocks on the right side only. Again, I would surmise accident (rims and lower rear door plastic were all scraped, they didn't even try to hide it). Unlike the timing belt, imho this has more variables as to how long they parts would/should last.
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BCT (12-28-18)
#22
I am truly curious/not trying to start argument here, why do you think struts do not deteriorate in LS as quickly as in other car/setup? It seems to me after 12 years and 100K miles struts should be close to the end of its usable life.
Just for comparison, my LS (04 119K miles) had all 4 replaced by previous owner right before I bought it. He said one of the struts has develop a leak. From what I can tell, the last 2/3 year before I bought it this past summer, the car was driven very little due to the owner having some health problem.
Just for comparison, my LS (04 119K miles) had all 4 replaced by previous owner right before I bought it. He said one of the struts has develop a leak. From what I can tell, the last 2/3 year before I bought it this past summer, the car was driven very little due to the owner having some health problem.
Long long time I used to own the Japanese McPherson car made by Nissan. I hated so much to replace shocks every year/two so I made my conclusions, lol. Literally these shocks were doing all the job and the control arms looked so thin and useless prompting me to start looking at the suspension design aspects. Which resulted in buying the car like LS430.
My situation with replacing all struts was related to installing lowered suspension and I wanted something more powerful - relatively speaking new oem strut is doing a better job than a 100k oem struts even if it doesn’t leak. I should say at one point I regretted replacing them as the old struts showed low to zero signs of wear. Maybe because the car never saw cold climate, I don’t know.
#23
Thanks everyone - I really appreciate the discussion and the suggestions.
Take away: for now im going to assume the struts are reasonable becuase I don't have any leakage, and I'll focus my attention on the various bushings/links that could be in need of replacement.
Take away: for now im going to assume the struts are reasonable becuase I don't have any leakage, and I'll focus my attention on the various bushings/links that could be in need of replacement.
#24
It's crazy to throw away money on strut replacements unless you know for certain they are bad. I had to replace my front struts at around 120,000 miles mainly because of an annoying noise. If they are not leaking, I'd look for other causes. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
#25
I know that on my BMW, which is a garage queen, the rear shock boots are torn on both sides. Kind of frustrating but not leaking, because the mileage is low....same on Maxima, all were torn but that car was driven daily. The common denominator was age , maybe BMW was about 2-3 years sooner that the boots tore (about 7)....I remember now on the Maxima the CV boots ripped at about 7 (then I cared so much for the car I immediately panicked and replaced and paid around $400--patience grasshopper! In retrospect I'd wait for a clunking sound).
#26
Don't rely on some sort of visible fluid leak to confirm your struts are shot. If they have 100k miles on them, they're shot. I have replaced dozens of struts over the years and have seen the dramatic change in handling, comfort and ride height a new set brings. I just changed the struts/shocks on my GX with 103k miles and, despite no visible fluid leaking, the pressurized gas is well gone as you can compress the shocks by hand and they simply stay compressed. The new shocks fully extend by themselves within 3 seconds when compressed. As worn as every set I've replaced has been at 100k, it's safe to say they should probably have been replaced closer to 75k miles. After changing the set in my parents' Neon, for example, the ride height was so dramatically increased I had to re-aim the headlights.
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gmoney94 (12-28-18)
#27
Here is my two cents:
1. Replace swaybar bushings - front and rear.
2. Replace swaybar end links - front and rear.
At 110 k miles. Simple, easy, & inexpensive.
Then, you can determine if more work is necessary
That's exactly what I did, & it worked for me.
Hopefully, it will work for you. Good Luck
1. Replace swaybar bushings - front and rear.
2. Replace swaybar end links - front and rear.
At 110 k miles. Simple, easy, & inexpensive.
Then, you can determine if more work is necessary
That's exactly what I did, & it worked for me.
Hopefully, it will work for you. Good Luck
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gmoney94 (12-29-18)
#28
Thanks for the advice. I found a set of front/rear linksis on eBay: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F222616367616. Are these reasonable or should I target a specific brand? Do you have a recommendation for bushings as well?
#29
Thanks for the advice. I found a set of front/rear linksis on eBay: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F222616367616. Are these reasonable or should I target a specific brand? Do you have a recommendation for bushings as well?
Moog seems a good alternative to OEM for endlinks - see this:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...end-links.html
For bushings, I would recommend OEM just because if what you install is harder rubber, the ride may not be as soft and smooth.
#30
I would stay away from eBay for these parts unless you are buying a reputable brand. If you're not using OEM here are some decent brands to choose from- https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+bar+link,7580
The MOOG's, Mevotech, and Delcos offer a limited lifetime warranty if that means anything by todays standards...?
The MOOG's, Mevotech, and Delcos offer a limited lifetime warranty if that means anything by todays standards...?