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I am glad you achieved great results. Please share your experience in my thread as well for future reference.
I will do - though I will wait for a week or two to see how the Computer readout settles.
One thing I have learnt with these cars is it takes about a tankful of fuel for the computer to settle into a stable pattern.
Regardless of the computer readouts, I do notice in the real world how smooth it is at idle. That definitely was not there before the swap. Even my wife commented that it seems quieter and smoother than before.
When you put the car in drive at a stop with the AC off whats your idle at mines from 400-350 I can feel the vibration in the steering wheel hope this will be the fix
My idle speed didn't change with the new FPD's
It idles around 600-650 when at operating temp. Slightly higher with AC on. There is very slight vibration in drive but you'd be picky to notice it. In neutral/park - there isn't any perceptible vibration.
Hope all goes well with your LS 430. May I inquire about the timing belt changing history and ask at what intervals it was changed?
From what I can tell from the history - The first one was done on schedule at 150,000 km's (or thereabouts) at 4 years old. The second one - I don't have written proof however the previous owner said it was done a couple of years ago (2016 ish) at around the 310,000km ish mark and was a memorably expensive exercise, along with a new radiator and hoses. I subsequently have had a good look at the belt to confirm and it looks like new so I believe him. The car now has close to 340,000km
I plan to keep an eye on it, but looks like a few years away for the next change.
The readout looks perfectly functional on the OBD.
It starts off at around ambient air temperature- usually around 20 degrees celcius depending on the day. heats up steadily and typically sits around the 89-94 degrees Celsius at operating temperature (again depending on day and drive ie it can be a little hotter in the middle of summer sitting in traffic). The computer goes into closed loop mode pretty quickly too after start.
Is there something else I should be aware of / look for regarding these sensors?
Well the new FPD's were installed this morning. Pretty easy job on bank 2. Bank one required moving the electrical harness out of the way to get access. I then went for a bit of a drive.
Result: it is now running buttery smooth, especially at idle. Can't really tell it's running at all without glancing at the tacho. Remarkable difference! Subtle but noticeable.
Ltft's are now read stable at idle both banks at 0%.
As soon as accelerator is pressed, both banks ltft drop into the negative like before (would this have something to do with the fuel pump 2 speed resistor circuit?) and then the ltfts jump around a bit like before but does seems less fluctuate less frequently.
I know you went oem with the fuel dampers, but are aftermarkets decent. What torque did you put them back on, thx.
I know you went oem with the fuel dampers, but are aftermarkets decent. What torque did you put them back on, thx.
I didn't want to mess around with aftermarket ones given the reviews on amazon for the fp4's suggesting dodgy threads. That said I can't honestly pass judgement as I just don't know first hand.
I went OEM through Amayama. Got both delivered to me for $160 aussie which was 60% more than aftermarket dampers delivered from rock auto with piece of mind that they are the correct spec. Part number of the originals that came off the car ended in 10. The new ones fitted ended in 12. So I guess they have updated the design slightly in the years since it was built.
As for torque, I couldn't get my torque wrench to fit with a colloision of a manifold bolt. So I had to improvise. Given that 28 nm was from memory the spec which is approx 3kgs at a metre or 10 KGS at 30cm. I would say snug plus a whisker more for good measure and to let the washers deform. Like a sump plug. But not too tight that it would strip the aluminum fuel rail. Followed by checks to make sure they aren't leaking.
I didn't want to mess around with aftermarket ones given the reviews on amazon for the fp4's suggesting dodgy threads. That said I can't honestly pass judgement as I just don't know first hand.
I went OEM through Amayama. Got both delivered to me for $160 aussie which was 60% more than aftermarket dampers delivered from rock auto with piece of mind that they are the correct spec. Part number of the originals that came off the car ended in 10. The new ones fitted ended in 12. So I guess they have updated the design slightly in the years since it was built.
As for torque, I couldn't get my torque wrench to fit with a colloision of a manifold bolt. So I had to improvise. Given that 28 nm was from memory the spec which is approx 3kgs at a metre or 10 KGS at 30cm. I would say snug plus a whisker more for good measure and to let the washers deform. Like a sump plug. But not too tight that it would strip the aluminum fuel rail. Followed by checks to make sure they aren't leaking.
Didn't even realize you weren't in the States. If I had not have to mitigate costs, I would have went OEM with Partsouq. They are like 45 dollars a piece with decent shipping costs.
Thanks for the tip. Always good to have another source.
Todays run data from a 20 minute drive with a few brisk acceleration showing ltft and throttle pos. Both banks tracking similar paths. Flat at no throttle, dropping a few percent as soin as throttle is pressed.
It's a beautiful sunny mid winters morning here so I thought I'd take the barge out for a half hour spin up and down the hill close by. Its about a 30 mile round trip with a section of 5 miles (8km) constant uphill at about 50mph (80 kmh).
Car is running smooth and strong now.
Below is the data from the trip of the ltft in both banks against the throttle position (above)
You can tell the uphill vs downhill sides!
Both banks are now tracking beautifully flat at closed throttle and both drop into negative mostly flat when accelerator is pushed...
Which is great news.
The previous erratic ltft behavior is gone. (Well bank 1 still moving slightly but 2 is absolutely stable)
Smooth
The rotten egg exhaust smells have gone away.
The power is nice and consistent every time compared to before where it was there sometimes and it felt like the computer was holding is back other times.
Obviously the computer thinks it is still running slightly rich when under throttle, but at least it is stable and correlates predictably with the accelerator.
Now to figure out why it is slightly rich.
Am thinking next step is installing a permanent fuel pressure gauge in the engine bay as that seems more cost effective and less hassle than the sst union temporary setup this car requires to check fuel pressure. Along with installing the new o2 sensors I picked up 6 months ago.
A quick update since the Fuel Pulse Dampers (fpd) went in and a few more kms..
Not only are the long term fuel trims behaving predicatably, as the computer contunues to adjust they are moving closer to 0! We are now less than 3% deviation now.
closer to zero!
with a few more kms (fingers crossed) the computer could well end up even closer to if not at the perfect zero.
long and short of this saga is I am convinced those FPD's play quite the part (if somewhat backstage) in keeping this 3uz ticking over smoothly.
When they get old they won't throw a code being mechanical and all, but you can see the computer adjusting to compensate erratically in the obd ltfts because of them (along with a seat of the pants feeling that lexi is not giving its all.)
Another probable symptom, albeit I'm not 100% sure that it wasn't a coincidence was that the 2 old spark plugs closest to the firewall, (closest to the fpd on each bank) were sooty, yet all the others looked good...
I'd highly recommend anyone with a 3UZ to consider these FPDs maintenance items to keep the smooth and efficient running. I'm thinking in line with timing belts given the functional part of them is rubber and all.
Toyota/Lexus seemed to have produced some defective or at least questionable FPDs, as I see that the new part # 23270-50012 supercedes the 23270-50010, 23270-50011, and 23270-73010.
I will be replacing my 2 FPDs and gaskets as well, as I've noticed my LTFTs have been 5-15% negative over the past few years, and I do get a whiff of raw gas inside the car during certain cold weather starts.
New OEM pulsation dampers of a regular size do a perfect job at stabilizing the pressure in the whole system. Larger size, I think, will require more review into whether it is actually more effective or to the contrary.
Toyota/Lexus seemed to have produced some defective or at least questionable FPDs, as I see that the new part # 23270-50012 supercedes the 23270-50010, 23270-50011, and 23270-73010.
I will be replacing my 2 FPDs and gaskets as well, as I've noticed my LTFTs have been 5-15% negative over the past few years, and I do get a whiff of raw gas inside the car during certain cold weather starts.
I went with 23270-50012's figuring that toyota/denso would have improved them over the past 15 years given the recent recall of their 6 cylinder version. ( an assumption rather than fact ).
with the negative fuel trim fluctuations fpds are likely the culprits.
given you have as high negative 15 it is possibly worth fitting a fuel pressure guage to the fuel feed hose to find out if the regulator has stopped regulating properly, (or do the ridiculous, time consuming and more expensive service manual procedure of temporarily removing the bank 2's fpd to fit banjo pressure adapter and longer banjo bolt plus sealing washers just to make a temporary pressure reading with a normal fuel pressure test kit.)
06-16-19, 08:13 PM
I will do - though I will wait for a week or two to see how the Computer readout settles.
