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DIY How to fix Engine Injector ticking noise / Fuel Pulsation Damper

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Old 02-15-19, 05:33 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by toddmorr
interesting thread, but I wouldn't go replacing parts without a definitive diagnosis. The symptoms mentioned earlier don't definitively mean it's the dampers, in other words. Could be any number of things.

Surely there are parameters or data outputs from a scan tool that indicate how the fuel system is truly working. A skilled technician would understand that data and could offer a logical opinion as to whether the dampers need replacing.

Maybe there's someone on here that can point us to areas in Toyota Techstream to examine?
I do agree about replacing parts without definitive diagnosis, but
- do not think there is a way to diagnose this part. It sounds like this is something that is worn out over time.
- this part is cheap enough and easily diy, so no labor cost
- the cost of getting a skilled tech to diagnose the damper would cost more than the parts itself
Old 04-03-19, 08:09 AM
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W140, is the car still just as smooth with the new dampeners installed as it was after installation?
Old 04-03-19, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Peacebay
W140, is the car still just as smooth with the new dampeners installed as it was after installation?
Yes, absolutely. Replacing fuel dampers was a huge improvement for my car. If you go this route, please do it correctly and you may see an improvement as well.

As mentioned earlier, the components of fuel dampers may degrade over time affecting its performance and stability of injector work. Increased injector ticking may be indirect factor of improper fuel dampers work. I noticed obvious and significant decrease of engine noise after replacing dampers which remained even as of today.

Last edited by ls430w140; 04-03-19 at 12:38 PM.
Old 04-03-19, 12:47 PM
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Nice! Just ordered the dampeners and got all four gaskets for under $10 at my local dealer. I’ll do a decibel comparison and engine vibration test with a glass of water on the intake manifold before/after
Old 04-18-19, 11:33 AM
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Parts finally arrived from Amayama.... Well, the verdict is that the engine definitely does run smoother. This is demonstrated in a before/after video I recorded at idle with a cup of water on the intake manifold. See here:



However, I could not detect any sound difference between the before and after with a decibel meter app. The before/after measured the exact same, so no difference there for me.

Here's the new Denso dampener installed on the passenger side: It is not black like the OE one was for some reason


Here's a pic of the OE vs. a Standard Motor aftermarket unit I ordered from Rockauto.com out of curiosity for $25. Notice the lack of the Phillips head screw on top (not sure of significance anyway). The OE one (left) was noticeably better quality though, with the SMP one comprised of zinc coated stamped steel. If you're going to do this, just order the OEM one please:




Last edited by Peacebay; 04-18-19 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 04-18-19, 11:39 AM
  #21  
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On another note, a funny thought occurred to me while I was doing this... Is my need to work on this car so much that I'm really spending over a hundred bucks to replace my fuel pulsation dampeners? I think I need a less reliable car.. LOL!
Old 04-23-19, 08:13 PM
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ls430w140
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Peacebay, May I ask what oil and filter brand are you currently using and how long did it last since last change? I watched both videos and I might be a little bit too picky on the sound but your engine works slightly louder than mine. Not injector wise, but overall sound itself. At the same time, congrats on reducing vibrations and normalizing fuel system pressure. Have you considered to apply some seafoam in throttle body and bg44 in the fuel tank? Def worth an investment once a year as additional maintenance action
Old 04-23-19, 09:20 PM
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I change it every 5k with Mobil 1 and a motorcraft fl400s filter. Last changed it less than 1k ago.
It does seem kind of loud in the video — definitely quieter in person, but idk. Timing belt, pulleys, and serpentine belt with pulleys were just changed too.
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Old 04-24-19, 11:42 AM
  #24  
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ls430w140, excellent thread/posts. I wonder if anyone is creating a spreadsheet of part numbers for the various known service items for our cars? Happen to have suspension bushing, control arm, ball joint info?
Old 04-24-19, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by JBrady
ls430w140, excellent thread/posts. I wonder if anyone is creating a spreadsheet of part numbers for the various known service items for our cars? Happen to have suspension bushing, control arm, ball joint info?
https://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.c...driveLine=8086
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Old 05-09-19, 01:52 AM
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Do the two heater pipes have to come off in order to replace the dampers? If so, are they difficult to remove and will there be coolant flowing out of them? Thanks!

Last edited by Hklexus; 05-09-19 at 01:59 AM.
Old 05-09-19, 02:10 AM
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You just need to unbolt them from the intake so you can move them around. No need to remove them completely so no coolant will drain
Old 05-09-19, 05:14 AM
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Sweet! Nice job. I have that sound too and thought it was my pacemaker....

edit I googled and found this on the topic

https://www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/012004_08.pdf

Last edited by Johnhav430; 05-09-19 at 05:18 AM.
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Old 05-09-19, 07:11 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Johnhav430
Sweet! Nice job. I have that sound too and thought it was my pacemaker....

edit I googled and found this on the topic

https://www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/012004_08.pdf
Great information, sir.

Let me also add something to the topic. I have had great experience using Seafoam products after replacing fuel dampers. What I know is they add additional lubricity to the system which should help it work more efficiently. Therefore, I highly recommend to use it whenever you are looking to improve mpg and, most importantly, improve the @lexus standard of acceleration and engine smoothness. In my case, I noticed that seafoam product is working better after replacing dampers (subjective opinion).
Old 05-10-19, 01:17 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Peacebay
You just need to unbolt them from the intake so you can move them around. No need to remove them completely so no coolant will drain
Thanks for the info. And did you also remove the rear fuel pipe completely in order to get to the lower gaskets for both sides?


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