ben.roark

How's everyone doing? Didn't have time to put this up so doing this now. I've had the front end "junk" like most here and decided to systematically change out parts that may be suspect to see which one was the culprit. First was the struts: I definitely heard a fairly loud "clunk" on turns especially if the turn had a dip or a bump. After the strut change, this sound is gone but the rest remained. Next was the LCA bushings: I heard this noise as I went over small bumps such as lane dividers. Primarily bumps upwards of 1.5 inches in height at slow speeds. LCA took care of this. Ball joints were next: this was less obvious as I couldn't find much difference either at higher speeds or lower speeds.

There still remains a sound when going over small bumps at low speeds only. On the highway it's absolutely perfect. I did get 4 new tires and an alignment done as well FYI. Next on the list will be strut mounts and stabilizer bar bushing. Hopefully this will take care of the remaining sounds. That being said it was interesting how after every R/R the sound lost some aspect. It was like removing the violin from the symphony then the oboe, then the viola, etc. They all contributed to the noise where initially I thought it was just coming from one area/part. The pictures show some cracking but as with most, the initial inspection showed that all parts did not react in a way that would merit replacement (no movement when jostling tire 12/6 or 9/3 etc.) My mechanic said nothing was moving and yet after replacement, it was noticeably different.

On a side note: does anybody know how to disable the volume "set" button next to the steering wheel volume button? This thing keeps setting on it's own and constantly beeps. Driving me mad really!

Cheers.

whutt

To set the volume "set" button you hold it down on the given volume you're at - it'll memorize it so you can quickly jump to that volume. Maybe your button is stuck? Grab a can of CRC Electronics cleaner and it might help if you find it to stick.

Onto the suspension goodies - I've done everything you've done about 4 months ago. The thing that surprised me the most were the steering rack bushings, they were turned into ovals. I went with the Daizen bushings and couldn't be happier. I still have a clunk/shake/slop/slack w.e. you'd like to call it coming from the intermediate shaft which should be replaced next week. I hope you're able to solve yours too

If you haven't done your steering rack bushings I highly advise while you have the car up on stands or a lift, they'll take 30 min or so.

Johnhav430

My indie drove my car extensively and lifted it and shined lights everywhere, and tapped with a rubber mallet all over. His conclusion was clunk sound over bumps, caused by having OE front brake pads with no shims. The selling dealership redid the front brakes with Lexus OE parts, as I have all the old ones in a box. Over the phone and without seeing my car, he said he bets it will be sway bar end links. Not the case when he saw it and lifted it.

Eventually I did the pads only (I feel this is OK with a non German car), and used Akebono. Shims are integral to the pads, unlike the OE which have nothing. Sound was gone (clunk on bumps), which the indie said were the pads shifting due to no shims. I do have the shims brand new in a bag and will likely go OE pads the next time I replace the rotors, as I plan on using OE rotors. my .02

BCT

Huh... I do not realize it is that easy/quick. I am going to have to look up how to do this. I did it for my Land Cruiser that has plenty of room with high ground clearance. I do not regret I did that, but that was not fun lol

whutt

There's a few photos / guide on here but I think they may have left out that the actual studs that hold the bushing assemblies back out easily [NOT counter threaded]. All you need to do is remove the steering rack bolts, remove studs and then pry out the bushings / inserts. I used two screw drivers, some degreaser and a hammer to pop them out. The rack will easily give side to side to make it happen. The Daizen bushings and some chassis lube was less than $50, I ordered from TME. It looks like Daizen is going to come out with full control arm bushings for $99, I might replace those too for the sake of it.

Cheers

StanVanDam

Try the below steering wheel button reset procedure - reply to thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...procedure.html if you have any questions about it

STEPS: MUST COMPLETE PROCEDURE WITHIN 30 SEC AFTER TURNING KEY TO ACC.
1) TURN KEY TO ACC POSITION. TURN RADIO OFF IF IT IS ON.
2) HOLD MODE BUTTON ON STEERING WHEEL FOR AT LEAST 10 SECONDS.
3) AFTER 10 SECONDS RELEASE MODE BUTTON, PRESS UP ^ BUTTON 3 TIMES. LOCATED ON TOP OF THE MODE BUTTON ON STEERING WHEEL.
4) THEN PRESS DOWN BUTTON 3 TIMES. LOCATED UNDER MODE BUTTON ON STEERING WHEEL.
5) TURN KEY TO ON POSITION. THEN TURN OFF.
6) REPEAT STEPS 1-5 IF PROBLEM NOT FIXED

Failing that, the switch behind the button might be intermittently making contact all by itself. Either spray some electrical contact cleaner in there and that might be a bandaid solution, or you need a new button (not sure if it's replaceable - if not, pry the button off permanently?).

Trilkb

So you did struts but not strut mounts? The strut mounts are the things that cause most of noise.

Steering rack bushings kicked my *** for atleast 2 hours. Getting the bolts restarted correctly was the biggest battle since the rack was all contourted

ben.roark

This was/is actually on my list but I did put it DEAD last because I thought it COULDN'T be this but it would be nice to freshen up. I'll have to put this on the list for sure I suppose. Thanks for the input.

So did this read on this post and the understanding is that if it's OE make sure to put the shims in; if aftermarket they usually come attached correct? It's actually time to do the front pads so I'll keep an eye on this. Will post after and confirm. Thank you.


So I did this tonight but didn't check. I'll find out tomorrow. Now the MIC button for voice command is not working. I usually have the screen off so I'll hit the button and say "SCREEN OFF"....bloodly MIC button won't work. Neither will the AUDIO button on center console. I will CRC the heck out of everything tomorrow. Thank you.

Cheers.

Johnhav430

yes these are the rear shims

04946-50040

these are the fronts

04945-50060

the list prices are pure insanity, fronts are $84, rears are $75. Don't we wish techs knew that when they throw them away? I can't see them keeping them unless they work on a lot of LS430s. Maybe better to simply use Akebonos. Should be cheaper on eBay, I'm thinking I paid $40 but not really sure. Japanese parts are really expensive compared to German.

p.s. just looked on eBay around $40 for rears and $50 for fronts, better than list price...