Yes, there is a white sealant type material around the hub. I used a wood rasp to remove the remnants of it.

My second hub should be here tomorrow, my garage is unavailable until they complete my construction. Thank goodness the weather looks good.

 

I just completed the R side, and all is well.
Rather odd, mine made noise turning R so I did the L side first. It was the RH bearing making all the racket.

It really was not at all apparent which bearing was making the noise. I spun both front wheels prior and both were the same. Once I had it down to just the hub it was easy to feel the bad bearings.

It is a miserable task to get those hubs out of the spindle. I heated I beated, I put the wheel back on temp for leverage and kicked the crud out of it. My propane torch was apparently not enough heat. Yes gallons of PB blaster best penetrating oil I know of.
Toyota dealer had it out in ten minutes, yes they used a press and had a fixture setup. I paid 45 bucks a side to have them remove it. It's easy to take the spindle out. You do need a tool for the upper tie rod end. I think Toyota employs Sumo wrestlers to tighten fasteners.

Oh and a final edit: it is possible but not practical to replace the bearing only. The Koyo bearing itself is sold on Ebay. If one had lots more time than money, and had the tooling, to include a good hydraulic press and of course a big vise to secure the hub while wrenching. Just buy a quality hub assembly. The Timken brand from ROck is marked Koyo on the hub.

 

Glad you got it out. Your experience as similar to mine. No tool I could find in my garage would budge it.

When I checked the bearing in the air I did not detect and unusual noises. I had a similar experience on my wife's car.

I'm trying to figure out if that white material around the hub is sealant or if it's actually oxidized aluminum. I have seen a similar white chalky substances on other heavily corroded / brittle aluminum parts.

 

I am 100% certain it is a sealant / cement applied at the factory of course. I used a really coarse file / wood rasp to remove the remnants of the material. I believe it's used because the metals are dissimilar. My car is from the rust belt, it was really well cared for. The parts were heavily corroded together. What was somewhat interesting was the corrosion was primarily where that white sealant was not present. I could see a heavy ring of corrosion on the inside edge where the hub meets the spindle. The Aluminum under the white sealant was pristine. Had that sealant not been applied? I don't think the hubs would come out, period.