DIY LS430 VSV (VACUUM SWITCHING VALVE) for EVAP cleaning / replacement procedure
#61
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This is a very interesting thread. I will look at my VSV as well and will clean it. And see if I get a smoother idle (it is already smooth but will do a before and after). Whoever came across this DIY, kudos to you!
#62
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I just came from Lexus Parts where I know the parts guy for years. I told him my issue with the CEL coming on with code P0440 Evaporative Emmission System. I changed the cap, did the smoke test, changed almost all the vacuum hoses leading the the Vacuum Switch Valve as well as cleaned the VSV with WD40. I just recently cleared my CEL so I'm waiting for it to return. My parts guy did say they it was common for him to sell the VSV (part number 25860-50100) and occassionally an inexpensive pipe (part number 23818-46110). I did purchase and replace the plastic pipe today for $10 but the old one did seem clear from any debris. He really feels that the VSV is causing my CEL to come on due to the number or VSVs he has sold in the past. I may bite the bullet and go for the one shown on this thread at the discounted price. Is that one an OEM?
#63
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Amayama or amazon should be safe enough if you find a reputable seller in the marketplace. Taking into account relatively low price of the VSV, I suggest to go for it especially after doing your best effort of diagnostic. If nothing else is showing up, go for it. This tiny valve plays a huge role in the car apparently.
#64
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What role does part number 25860-50121 play in all of this? It is also described as a purge valve. Can't this valve also cause issues and why aren't we looking into it as a culprit? I believe Lexus has it's cost at $78. Is it hard to get to and can it be tested?
#65
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cleaned my VSV valve with first liquid wrench, then throttle body cleaner...just sprayed a bunch of that in there, shook it around. No codes before, no codes after. It does feel surprisingly smoother. Impossible to say anything re gas mileage.
#66
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#67
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Has anyone actually replaced the VSV with a new one to find it fixed and or improved their particular problem and/or permanently kept the trouble codes off?
#68
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I would caution people against using penetrating fluid to “clean” this vsv. The only reason wd40 would be acceptable is because it contains solvent. A penetrating fluid has hardly any cleaning properties.
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Bocatrip (08-24-19)
#69
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agree, that's why I first used the Liquid Wrench, then actually cleaned it with Throttle Body cleaner.
#70
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Original spec in Canada was 8.8L/100km highway (http://www.autos.ca/car-test-drives/...2-lexus-ls430/), so I'm pretty close with 8.9. Engine air filter has 24,000kms on it and not cleaned since installation, still on original spark plugs and original 3 of 4 O2 sensors (RH front has 80000km less mileage than the other 3, still Denso OEM). Coolant has 6 years and 46500km of use, due for a change. Throttle body and plate was cleaned a year or 2 ago.
2021 update (2 years later): hesistation/acceleration lag is not related to this part. This part can give a very incremental increase to fuel efficiency, and if the old one is cracked/leaking, it can eliminate gasoline smell in front end.
Last edited by StanVanDam; 06-04-21 at 08:24 AM.
#71
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Only two tanks of gas since I bought my 06 UL w/ 135k, and mileage on the dash has settled around 16.5. Had some spare time so I popped off the valve and cleaned it up with some WD40, so far, it's picked up .5 MPG in less than a quarter tank with no change in my driving habits. And I must be leading a charmed life because the hoses came off with no issues and the connector did not break
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Natey2 (03-10-24)
#72
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I have a 2003 LS430, 240K miles that has codes P0442 and P0446. I thought I would start my troubleshooting at the VSV. I removed the electrical connector to the VSV and am measuring 11.7 V with the ignition ON, not started. I removed the VSV and see that the hoses to it are cracked, so I think I could have a small vacuum leak on one or all of the hoses. The VSV is closed with no voltage applied. I took the VSV and applied 12.8 VDC from the battery and heard a click, and the VSV opened...I could blow air through it.
So, I thought: the VSV is good, time to troubleshoot elsewhere, but decided to make sure that the VSV opened with the voltage from the connector. To my surprise, when I connected the electrical connector to the VSV and turned the ignition ON, the VSV did NOT open.
So, at this point, have I found my problem? Is my VSV bad? I saw videos of mechanics using a 9 Volt battery to check these valves. Also, if my VSV is not operating as it should would this cleaning process perhaps restore it, or is it too far gone...just replace it?
Thanks, hope somebody has some experience that will help.
Andy
So, I thought: the VSV is good, time to troubleshoot elsewhere, but decided to make sure that the VSV opened with the voltage from the connector. To my surprise, when I connected the electrical connector to the VSV and turned the ignition ON, the VSV did NOT open.
So, at this point, have I found my problem? Is my VSV bad? I saw videos of mechanics using a 9 Volt battery to check these valves. Also, if my VSV is not operating as it should would this cleaning process perhaps restore it, or is it too far gone...just replace it?
Thanks, hope somebody has some experience that will help.
Andy
#73
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I have a 2003 LS430, 240K miles that has codes P0442 and P0446. I thought I would start my troubleshooting at the VSV. I removed the electrical connector to the VSV and am measuring 11.7 V with the ignition ON, not started. I removed the VSV and see that the hoses to it are cracked, so I think I could have a small vacuum leak on one or all of the hoses. The VSV is closed with no voltage applied. I took the VSV and applied 12.8 VDC from the battery and heard a click, and the VSV opened...I could blow air through it.
So, I thought: the VSV is good, time to troubleshoot elsewhere, but decided to make sure that the VSV opened with the voltage from the connector. To my surprise, when I connected the electrical connector to the VSV and turned the ignition ON, the VSV did NOT open.
So, at this point, have I found my problem? Is my VSV bad? I saw videos of mechanics using a 9 Volt battery to check these valves. Also, if my VSV is not operating as it should would this cleaning process perhaps restore it, or is it too far gone...just replace it?
Thanks, hope somebody has some experience that will help.
Andy
So, I thought: the VSV is good, time to troubleshoot elsewhere, but decided to make sure that the VSV opened with the voltage from the connector. To my surprise, when I connected the electrical connector to the VSV and turned the ignition ON, the VSV did NOT open.
So, at this point, have I found my problem? Is my VSV bad? I saw videos of mechanics using a 9 Volt battery to check these valves. Also, if my VSV is not operating as it should would this cleaning process perhaps restore it, or is it too far gone...just replace it?
Thanks, hope somebody has some experience that will help.
Andy
#75
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Sorry about not noticing you mentioned the codes. I'd start with the small stuff, gas cap, and all those small vacuum hoses near the VSV. Did you perform a smoke test yet? Clear the codes and check the mileage of how long and how many miles if/when the light comes back on. The Evap system on our older cars can sometimes be difficult to find. I've been working on mine for quite some time with the PO440 code and CEL.. I've changed the cap, all the vacuum hoses, cleaned the VSV, performed the smoke test (showing no leaks) etc. I've been driving with a half a tank of gas for the last few fill ups until recently. So far the CEL has not come back on and it's been almost 800 miles. I'm not overly confident that it's resolved. Good luck with yours and let us know how you make out.