SRS light staying on
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
SRS light staying on
Last night I see that my SRS light is staying on and it's still on this morning. Trying to do some research and not really finding much about it. Sounds like I might not have any other choice but to take it to a dealership to see if they can use a more advanced ODBII reader to find the code. I am a DIY and never take my car to a dealership to service but guess I'm going to have no choice. I don't know if I should try a Toyota dealer since it's possible they could be a little cheaper or just got to Lexus where I'm afraid I'm going to put through the ringer just to get a diagnosis and probably end up having to have them fix it.
#2
Lexus Fanatic
I picked up an Autel for $90 that supposedly does SRS. I have not connected it to the Lexus to try. I used it on my wife's GM for ABS and it worked. The only problem is on older cars the newer readers often don't work per the comments online. I know I had bought an even more expensive one over $150, and it would not work on my 1998 Nissan for SRS, even though it was supposed to (explicitly listed in the pdf that my car is covered).
The problem I have with airbags after the Takata scandal. Who actually inspects it at year 10? Then, people have died in Hondas with functioning airbag systems made by Takata, and no accident. So, wouldn't it actually better for airbags to potentially be disabled on older cars, except in the event of an accident where they were needed? This is a catch 22.
With my Nissan I was in the habit of resetting the warning since the car was about 6 y.o., i.e. the last 15 years. It has side airbags and was the first year, and so defective. Replaced several times under warranty (5/60), but after warranty I was not willing to pay $800 each time.
Guess what I am saying is we are in the habit of getting rid of warnings, rather than doing a RCA. Even me. The LS430 had a check engine, that lead to rear 02 pass side, reset it, and gone for over 2k miles. But what caused it?
The problem I have with airbags after the Takata scandal. Who actually inspects it at year 10? Then, people have died in Hondas with functioning airbag systems made by Takata, and no accident. So, wouldn't it actually better for airbags to potentially be disabled on older cars, except in the event of an accident where they were needed? This is a catch 22.
With my Nissan I was in the habit of resetting the warning since the car was about 6 y.o., i.e. the last 15 years. It has side airbags and was the first year, and so defective. Replaced several times under warranty (5/60), but after warranty I was not willing to pay $800 each time.
Guess what I am saying is we are in the habit of getting rid of warnings, rather than doing a RCA. Even me. The LS430 had a check engine, that lead to rear 02 pass side, reset it, and gone for over 2k miles. But what caused it?
#3
Instructor
A Toyota dealer will have the required scanner, you don't need to go to Lexus.
If you don't have Techstream and want to check current SRS system codes, turn ignition ON, wait 20 seconds, then jump terminals Tc and CG on the DLC3. The 2 digit DTC is indicated by the number of times the SRS light blinks. If the system is normal with no prior codes, it will blink twice a second (.25 seconds on, .25 seconds off). If the system is normal but has a prior error code, it will blink once per second. If the system has a current malfunction, the first blinking output indicates the first digit of the 2 digit code. After a 1.5 second pause, the second blinking output indicates the second digit. If there are 2 or more codes, there will be a 2.5 second gap between codes. After all codes have been output, there will be a 4 second gap before they are all repeated again.
For example, codes 11 and 31 will be output via 1 blink, 1.5 second gap between digits, then another blink, then 2.5 second gap between codes, then 3 quick blinks, a 1.5 second gap, then 1 blink, then 4 seconds will go by before it repeats.
You don't want to reset the codes until you get the codes that triggered the light. To reset the codes without Techstream, you need to ground terminal Tc of the DLC3 to GND, turn ignition ON, watch the SRS light start to output a code, then release ground, then the light will go on within 2-4 seconds, and within 1-5 seconds after the light going on, you need to ground Tc again. Then the light will go off after 2-4 seconds, then you need to release ground 1-5 seconds after. Then the SRS light will go on 2-4 seconds after, then you need to ground Tc again within 1-5 seconds, then SRS light will go off after 2-4 seconds. Within 1 second after, the normal code (twice a second) should be blinking. If not, repeat the entire procedure until all codes are cleared.
Report back with the codes if you can.
If you don't have Techstream and want to check current SRS system codes, turn ignition ON, wait 20 seconds, then jump terminals Tc and CG on the DLC3. The 2 digit DTC is indicated by the number of times the SRS light blinks. If the system is normal with no prior codes, it will blink twice a second (.25 seconds on, .25 seconds off). If the system is normal but has a prior error code, it will blink once per second. If the system has a current malfunction, the first blinking output indicates the first digit of the 2 digit code. After a 1.5 second pause, the second blinking output indicates the second digit. If there are 2 or more codes, there will be a 2.5 second gap between codes. After all codes have been output, there will be a 4 second gap before they are all repeated again.
For example, codes 11 and 31 will be output via 1 blink, 1.5 second gap between digits, then another blink, then 2.5 second gap between codes, then 3 quick blinks, a 1.5 second gap, then 1 blink, then 4 seconds will go by before it repeats.
You don't want to reset the codes until you get the codes that triggered the light. To reset the codes without Techstream, you need to ground terminal Tc of the DLC3 to GND, turn ignition ON, watch the SRS light start to output a code, then release ground, then the light will go on within 2-4 seconds, and within 1-5 seconds after the light going on, you need to ground Tc again. Then the light will go off after 2-4 seconds, then you need to release ground 1-5 seconds after. Then the SRS light will go on 2-4 seconds after, then you need to ground Tc again within 1-5 seconds, then SRS light will go off after 2-4 seconds. Within 1 second after, the normal code (twice a second) should be blinking. If not, repeat the entire procedure until all codes are cleared.
Report back with the codes if you can.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Took it to Toyota, they said they narrowed it down to the left rear seat belt. I'll find out more when I go pick it up but he said it was like a rodent had got in the back and made a nest but there were no signs of urine or feces and they couldn't tell how it would have gotten there. They are wanting $862 and I'm believe he said he would have to replace the rear seat belt, again I'll find out more when I pick it up in a couple hours. I'm going to have to pay the $140 diagnosis fee but I don't see paying the remaining balance.
Anyone heard of this or now how to fix?
Anyone heard of this or now how to fix?
#6
Go to an aoutp store to read the scans. I think i had a gas cap error that needed to be cleared. -you can simply clear and wait for the error to re-occur after its cleared.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
B1926 is the code and I'm assuming LH means driver's side. Talked to another Lexus shop and they said that the SRS light won't stop me from getting my car inspected. Now that I know it's not actually having to do with an air bag then I'm not as worried. Toyota dealer wanted something like $468 for the belt and I found them online from Lexus for $300. Saw a used one on eBay for $40 but you take a chance of it not working properly.
Last edited by caverman; 07-05-19 at 05:09 PM.
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#8
Lexus Champion
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks. It sounds like the fix is going to be to replace the seat belt. Since it's not actually and air bag issue per say I'm not going to be in as big of a rush to fix. I'll keep an eye out on eBay for a used one maybe and worst case I can get new one for $300.
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