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Hello all. I am a daily reader and I have learned a lot from you guys about this amazing car. I have a issue and before we start I have searched and could not find anything that resembles my issue. Problem is that every time I start my car for the first time everyday it takes awhile for the transmission to engage in gear. After that first time it engages perfectly fine for the rest of the day. I checked the fluid and it is in the required range. Fluid looks good and doesn’t smell burnt. Car is a 01 base model with 166k on the odo. I have owned the car for 10 yrs and in my ownership I have done no transmission work to it at all. Please shed some light if anyone has/had this issue

thanks

rkw77080

Does the problem occur on both "R" and "D" gears?

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Yes both gears

rkw77080

OK, so most likely the problem is not related to the shifting solenoids. Based on your description, it sounds like the ATF is not reaching the shifting gears after the car is off over-night.

Here are the first few things to check:
1) Proper fluid type: ATF Type T-IV?
2) Did you check ATF level with engine running idle, transmission in "P" or "N", at proper temperature 158-176 degF, and fluid level falls between the "HOT" range?

If the above are OK, the next thing to check is the ATF line pressure. A failing pump will not provide sufficient pressure to push ATF through the transmission internals initially to shift the gears.

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Thanks for the fast reply. I don’t know how to check what type of fluid is in there I did check the level and it was within the hot range on the dipstick but the engine was off. I checked it after a 20 min drive. How do I check the pump that u speak of. I was thinking of doing a 2 to 3 quart drain a fill. What do you think?

rkw77080

I believe we have identified the problem...

The ATF level must be checked while the engine is running idle, that is, the proper level should be taken while the ATF is in full circulation. With the engine off, all of the ATF drains back into the oil pan and give you a false reading that is higher than the proper level. In other words, I suspect your current ATF level is too low.

Please check your ATF level with the engine running idle, transmission in "P" or "N", car parked on level ground, and ATF is up to temperature. If required, add ATF to reach within the "HOT" range on the dipstick.

Johnhav430

Any leaks? My car had a rear output shaft leak, at 81k. Since it was fixed, I routinely check under for any fluids. It accumulates on that aluminum looking bracket that has the trans mount if it is leaking. I don't think there are any threads regarding this issue, but on Tundras, all day long.

When I got my car at 81k, it managed to go through a dealer multi-point suggesting $6,500 worth of work (it included the timing belt @ $1,800), yet did not point out a leaking rear output shaft.

My car spent 8 years in FLA so maybe it's heat and time, not mileage, dunno. Cuz the 8 years comprised of 39k with the original owner. Imagine if nobody caught it, maybe I am at 120k and who knows how much fluid would be gone (2006 so no dipstick).

ATF is really misleading for how much it expands. My wife's GM has a dipstick. I can measure what comes out, try to put exactly that much back in knowing it will be lower when cold. It will take maybe 7-8 more tries adding, before it's right.

Kinda like trying to release air from a tire. My last rental had 51 psi on all 4. It took about 8 tries to get it down to 35. 15 seconds of releasing air, took like 4 psi out. Trying to illustrate that some things aren't what you think, using common sense. ATF and its level is one of those....my .02

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Thanks for the fast responses. I will check the ATF level with the engine running and report back later with my findings

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Update:

I checked the ATF level with the engine running when I got home from work and after a few burns to my hands later it was indeed low. I added fluid and it seems to be back to normal. I will continue to check daily to make sure the level is correct. As far as leaks go. I park in my garage everyday and I have no spots of oil on the floor so the next time my car goes on a lift I will do some snooping to see. Do you guys think any damage could of happened with the fluid being that low? Thanks again for all your help

Bocatrip

What is the condition of the fluid? Color? Smell burnt? Be careful not to overfill the transmission either as that too can cause issues. Let us know if your car still has any "morning sickness" when you start out cold. Should be no delay in D or R when cold.

rkw77080

Given that the there is no evidence of an ATF leak, I suspect that you have been driving the car with low ATF level for a while. On the other hand, you mentioned that the slow-engagement only happened first thing in the morning, and disappeared afterward. That shows that the ATF was not low enough to impede your transmission's normal operation. If your ATF color is not darken and it does not smell burnt, then I think you're OK.

rkw77080

100% agree! Please take a look at Post #11 on the link below...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-04-ls430.html

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Update

i went this morning to go to work and the issue is back again. Am I doing something wrong when checking the dip stick. It shows that the level is within range. I am checking with engine running after about a 20 min drive and it is on level ground. How is the oil on the dipstick supposed to look in terms of when checking the level. Is it supposed to be thick up to the correct level Mine is like a very thin (film like thickness) on the stick. I don’t want to keep adding fluid and then end up with too much fluid in there. Can someone tell me how much fluid can be stored in there. I am filling it up through the dipstick tube. So far I have added a full quart

Johnhav430

I'm guilty myself of wishful thinking, but I saw a useful post a while back on the internet, that leaks do not fix themselves. I found traces of antifreeze on my wife's subframe, gone next day, gone for 1.5 months. Came back with a vengeance. I would suspect the shaft seals were going bad and what I saw was weeping, then maybe much slower where it could evaporate, then failure. I'd imagine a tranny could be the same, given the sheer amount of seals...and even though I do not think there is one single post about it on the forum, I would find it difficult to fathom that my car was the only one made that needed a rear output shaft replaced due to leaking....because Toyota is pretty consistent on mfg., come one, come all!

weldthedif

Why not try a trans fluid exchange? Its the simplest thing you could try to resolve this problem.