Brake Rotors
#1
Lexus Champion
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Last time I got Centric Rotors but they squeeled for a while unlike other brake jobs. What rotors do you guys recommend lately for long lasting non pulsating wear? Thanks
#2
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Centric Premiums are all I use on all of my cars. The rotors shouldn't squeal, that should be the pads or something else making contact with the rotors. What pads were you running on the Centrics?
#3
Lexus Champion
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Akibono. Early in morning would scare the birds out of trees backing out of drive lasted for 10 k miles or so.
I used Centric prior with Lexus pads with no issues. Both brakes where sweet last one just annoying My neighbor never mentioned it must be deaf!
I used Centric prior with Lexus pads with no issues. Both brakes where sweet last one just annoying My neighbor never mentioned it must be deaf!
#5
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I've used the Power Stop Evolution Sport pads with great results on my LS430. Works well with the Centric Premium rotors.
#7
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I probably would use OE or Centric. Centric is always going to be the cheaper alternative, my rears were $27 each. Since Lexus and most Asian cars only sweep a small portion of the disc face, OE hides this the best, where the rust is a dull gray, and aftermarket is bright orange. To me it's looks not noise, that's better with OE. No squealing at all with my Centrics and Akebono.
My fronts were done with OE when I got the car used. It was last fall that I put Akebono pads in and DID NOT replace the OE rotors which have rusted badly. My understanding is that unlike German cars, one does not replace rotors every time pads are replaced so now I have Akebono pads all corners, OE rotors front, Centric rotors rear. I will say at least for the hats, there is zero rust on the Centrics (I have used other aftermarket brands with black hats on other cars and they rust as if the paint isn't even there, unlike the Centrics, and $27, how can one go wrong). But a huge orange stripe on the inside edge of the rotor face, which, to some, is ugly.
Yes the pads I took out of the fronts were OE and Sumitomo.
For noise maybe try OE pads and install the proper shims.
My fronts were done with OE when I got the car used. It was last fall that I put Akebono pads in and DID NOT replace the OE rotors which have rusted badly. My understanding is that unlike German cars, one does not replace rotors every time pads are replaced so now I have Akebono pads all corners, OE rotors front, Centric rotors rear. I will say at least for the hats, there is zero rust on the Centrics (I have used other aftermarket brands with black hats on other cars and they rust as if the paint isn't even there, unlike the Centrics, and $27, how can one go wrong). But a huge orange stripe on the inside edge of the rotor face, which, to some, is ugly.
Yes the pads I took out of the fronts were OE and Sumitomo.
For noise maybe try OE pads and install the proper shims.
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#8
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Thanks for all the help.Funny thing I put my LS on the rear jack from my trunk, while I waited for a used head light leveling sensor to come in from e bay with my parking brake on(maybe 2 weeks i have a third car). Now the rotors are warped on otherwise perfect brakes.
#9
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Thinking more about it and looking at my car yesterday, I might just call it a day with Centrics which do seem to be good quality and < 50% the price of OE. The hat portion truly DOES NOT rust, like they do with other rotors where the hats are painted black.
OE just has such a high cost I dunno it's not worth it on such an old car. And the OE rusts like no tomorrow on the vane section of the rotors. Just that all the other rust is dull gray, not orange. OE can be spotted because the hats are not black. They are gray.
It has been spelled out all over the web that the reason OE tends to be the best quality for any vehicle is that when the vehicle is brand new, most have a 12k mile adjustment warranty. The last thing they want is the customer coming in to complain about squealing etc. (this is not covered by a bumper to bumper warranty, but it "is" by a 12k adjustment). So the mfg. researched the disc/pad/hardware solution so that does not happen. Most of this internal documentation has been removed from the web, but I remember a GM paper written explaining the difference between a groan and a squeal, what they did to eliminate such noise, etc. Many mistake a groan and call it a squeal. This gets dicey with German cars since they tend to use semi-metallic not ceramic pads.
With the LS, technically you need the shims, and they are expensive if tossed away, roughly $40-$50 per axle. That really adds to the price of the job when using OE.
OE just has such a high cost I dunno it's not worth it on such an old car. And the OE rusts like no tomorrow on the vane section of the rotors. Just that all the other rust is dull gray, not orange. OE can be spotted because the hats are not black. They are gray.
It has been spelled out all over the web that the reason OE tends to be the best quality for any vehicle is that when the vehicle is brand new, most have a 12k mile adjustment warranty. The last thing they want is the customer coming in to complain about squealing etc. (this is not covered by a bumper to bumper warranty, but it "is" by a 12k adjustment). So the mfg. researched the disc/pad/hardware solution so that does not happen. Most of this internal documentation has been removed from the web, but I remember a GM paper written explaining the difference between a groan and a squeal, what they did to eliminate such noise, etc. Many mistake a groan and call it a squeal. This gets dicey with German cars since they tend to use semi-metallic not ceramic pads.
With the LS, technically you need the shims, and they are expensive if tossed away, roughly $40-$50 per axle. That really adds to the price of the job when using OE.
#10
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Raybestos Advanced Technology. 3.5 years and 30,000kms on my rear rotors, 1.5 years and 12,000kms on my front. No issues so far, first time I've used non-OEM. I bought this runout dial gauge set https://www.accusizetools.com/automo...age-0510-0917/ to find out which of the 5 lug positions on each rotor yields the lowest hub-mating rotor runout.
For reference, I went through 2 sets of OEM front rotors, first set lasted from 0 to 85,000kms (8 years since in-service date), second set lasted from 85 to 156k (8 years since last replacement). Rear rotors were first changed at 138,000km (13.6 years). Will report back in this thread or a more detailed one (many threads on this topic already) whenever I need to change rotors again.
For reference, I went through 2 sets of OEM front rotors, first set lasted from 0 to 85,000kms (8 years since in-service date), second set lasted from 85 to 156k (8 years since last replacement). Rear rotors were first changed at 138,000km (13.6 years). Will report back in this thread or a more detailed one (many threads on this topic already) whenever I need to change rotors again.
#12
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For those who use Centric, which type rotors did you use? I see on Rock Auto there are three Centric options, "Centric C-Tek" (Economy), "Centric" (Daily Driver), and "Centric GCX Elemental Protection" (Coated).
Thanks!
Thanks!
#13
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Thecar (10-04-19)
#14
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These....they were $27 on amazon when I got them. Shikes...holy price increase. My two things are noise and rust. No lie.....these things do not rust on the hats....not at all. They have the same cross hatch as OE. I only have them on the rears. As mentioned, my fronts were done by the dealer when I bought the car with OE Lexus. See how the vanes are also coated? No rust. OE vanes rust big time.
https://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts.../dp/B000BZZPQS
https://www.amazon.com/Centric-Parts.../dp/B000BZZPQS
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