Taillight Failure, new Bulb Didn't Light, bad Connection?
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Taillight Failure, new Bulb Didn't Light, bad Connection?
I've posted here before about a blown taillight and it was a simple fix. However I got another "TAILLIGHT FAILURE" light, red triangle, and the "ding!" noise, however, when I rolled into JiffyLube for what I'd thought be a 10 minute, $7 bulb fix turned out that the new bulb didnt light up either. They said it may be the socket, however other searches around here may say it may be the new bulb they're using is causing issues because of the amperage draw, but what confuses me is that the new bulb didnt light up, and wouldn't a different spec bulb light up but still throw the warning light, but this new bulb not lighting up indicate something with the plug, wire or a fuse?
Also this taillight failure is the passenger side, body mounted top taillight.
Also this taillight failure is the passenger side, body mounted top taillight.
#2
Moderator
Those tail light bulbs are supplied the 12V DC power via the failure sensor circuit called the “Multiplex Rear Junction Computer”/ "Luggage Room J/B" ECU. Sometimes it causes a open circuit problem inside. Check connections and soldering points where the big current going through such as the current sensing registers, FET's source and drain and connector's soldering points. Heated soldering points are sometimes cracked or melted due to the high inrush current to bulbs when aged.
The photo in the link below shows the sensing circuit in the unit.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ml#post9345251
The photo in the link below shows the sensing circuit in the unit.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ml#post9345251
Last edited by Yamae; 12-16-19 at 05:16 PM.
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BTC89LS400 (12-17-19)
#3
Lexus Fanatic
I know with GM vehicles it's common for the socket to require replacement. My wife's is a 2011 pre LED, so it's notorious for having only one side working. After dancing around with bulb replacements, one day, I replaced the bulb and working, next day not. Move the bulb to other side, good. Found a Jeep forum where someone said in his experience quick bulb failure (or immediate) is not actually the bulb but the socket. Replaced the socket and used dielectric grease, and worked right away. The one I removed was all burned and brown/discolored. jmo on when a brand new bulb doesn't work....Volvo many years ago was the same, it was a circuit board that needed replacement....(p.s. GMs TSB to increase the wattage of the bulb from 27 to 31.x fails HS physics, as we know V=IR so that's not gonna help the situation just may burn out later than sooner--this move cost some GMC owners $1000+ per side but that's GM lol)
#4
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I know with GM vehicles it's common for the socket to require replacement. My wife's is a 2011 pre LED, so it's notorious for having only one side working. After dancing around with bulb replacements, one day, I replaced the bulb and working, next day not. Move the bulb to other side, good. Found a Jeep forum where someone said in his experience quick bulb failure (or immediate) is not actually the bulb but the socket. Replaced the socket and used dielectric grease, and worked right away. The one I removed was all burned and brown/discolored. jmo on when a brand new bulb doesn't work....Volvo many years ago was the same, it was a circuit board that needed replacement....(p.s. GMs TSB to increase the wattage of the bulb from 27 to 31.x fails HS physics, as we know V=IR so that's not gonna help the situation just may burn out later than sooner--this move cost some GMC owners $1000+ per side but that's GM lol)
I’m gonna check the trunk junction box to check the circuit board, if nothing is wrong with the board or fuses, I’m thinking of snagging the socket wire off Bell Lexus at around $60. I also did run a scan on my car awhile ago and it came back with 4 trunk junction box codes. I didn’t worry at first since nothing happened till now, but I’m going to scan it again and save the codes.
#5
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I’m gonna check the trunk junction box to check the circuit board, if nothing is wrong with the board or fuses, I’m thinking of snagging the socket wire off Bell Lexus at around $60. I also did run a scan on my car awhile ago and it came back with 4 trunk junction box codes. I didn’t worry at first since nothing happened till now, but I’m going to scan it again and save the codes.
Are the bulbs not sitting right or was swapped the wire set opening Pandora’s box?
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LS - 3rd Gen (2001-2006)
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09-06-11 12:40 PM