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did the tensioner pulley idler pulley / squeak squeal gone
Did this job yesterday, of course, squeak gone/squeal.
It does seem, that there was nothing wrong with the pulley on the tensioner. It was the smaller pulley that was making the sound, so maybe those who have this sound could try that first and not spend on the tensioner pulley (or just go Dayco I guess).
I went the get the entire tensioner OE for $64 route, and moved the new pulley from new to old. It would seem as suggested that the tensioner is attached through the alternator stud and is something that comes off during a timing belt job.
This smaller pulley by NSK/amazon is in fact identical to what came off the car, so save the money over OE imho: NSK pulley (part number 70SPPV0408DDUL) for $36.
And I misunderstood, but the decal on the hood clarified anyway, I thought both were a left hand thread, but no, just the tensioner pulley.
Question: Does the pulley below the small one I replaced, ever go bad? That seems to be more expensive and potentially more involved, but I did not see folks here replacing it.
it seems that the part is this one and it would not seem that the pulley is replaced separately, so $$$$:
Also, I believe I have a leak likely from the valve cover gasket. I had seen the grime doing the oil change on the rack, but because the undercover was on I kinda brushed it off. And I remember peering in and trying to get at some grime on the pass side of the engine but not really able to reach. Yesterday since I had the air box etc. off, I decided to remove the entire underbody to look.
All the bolts were in fact loose on the valve cover, so here we go, tighten and see! These cars imho are built to fairly strict tolerances, so likely any issue anyone has, everyone is going to have it. That's what I think. And again it's age, not miles. So I have to look at it differently--when we say this is a 300k car all day long, likely if you bought new, and proceeded to drive 30k/yr, it would easily sail through 300k. If you bought used at 15 years with 30,000 miles, it will not easily sail through 300k. Will need age related maintenance and repairs. Hope that makes sense, it's a work in progress for sure!
This one I would be hesitant seems too good to be true, list price is $98.38. The word genuine is not used and the description: Meet the professional specification for stable performance & durable service.
That pulley underneath definitely can go
bad, and it’s along the same amount of work to replace it as the tensioner assy (best to do with a timing belt job). If you’ve ever worked on a 1uz, that pulley is where the mechanical cooling fan is. On the 3uz they kept that pulley but took away the mechanical fan obviously.
That pulley underneath definitely can go
bad, and it’s along the same amount of work to replace it as the tensioner assy (best to do with a timing belt job). If you’ve ever worked on a 1uz, that pulley is where the mechanical cooling fan is. On the 3uz they kept that pulley but took away the mechanical fan obviously.
Gotcha, I still don't see myself doing the timing belt myself next time around, so maybe I would ask the indie to install that part, as well as the tensioner, at that time (but do I ask him to transfer the wheel lol). I would definitely like to try the timing belt job if my car were a garage queen and I could spend say 3-7 days on it....
The bearing in the fan bracket has an easy life compared to the idler pulley bearing. I'm not going to do the math but the idler pulley spins approx twice as many revolutions and twice as fast. This is why it fails sooner. The fan bracket bearing can go but it probably won't...
Gotcha, thanks. Another thing I noticed, I put in a Bando 2240 belt, and the one that came out 2245 (indie did that when doing timing belt as I asked for serpentine to be replaced). Does that 5 mm not matter? And if you search for Lexus OE, there are both Bando and Mitsoboshi belts. 90916-02585 and 90916-02586. The tensioner with pulley said made in USA on box--likely Dayco, right?
From memory, I believe the tensioner pulley bearing was NTN made in Canada--both original, and new OE.
Again the reason for the entire tensioner and not the pulley alone, with OE, only about $2 difference.
I'm one of those geeks who likes to look at parts....not just to make sure they are compatible but to inspect....
Striker you are correct, many of us have done it.
BUT there's a catch- the OE bearing (BD20-15DUL) is actually 15mm wide. 6203-2RS is only 12mm wide. Finding an exact quality replacement, Japanese or German made, has eluded us for years on the 400 side. The pulley Johnhav used is the only aftermarket option available that uses a quality Japanese bearing of the same width. I know 3mm may be too OCD to worry about but it's nice to know the correct bearing is available cheaply now. I have a 6203-2RS in my 430...
I have one of those idlers sitting here too. I swapped with another 400 owner so that he could have a pulley and I took his pulley with the BD20-15DUL bearing. If that 6203 is working well I can stop by the bearing shop and press the BD20-15DUL out and have waiting spare. I called across the country at the time looking for a BD20-15DUL with no results. Lexus superseded the pulley at some point in the 400's so the replacement had a more common bearing route to pursue thankfully.
Striker you are correct, many of us have done it.
BUT there's a catch- the OE bearing (BD20-15DUL) is actually 15mm wide. 6203-2RS is only 12mm wide. Finding an exact quality replacement, Japanese or German made, has eluded us for years on the 400 side. The pulley Johnhav used is the only aftermarket option available that uses a quality Japanese bearing of the same width. I know 3mm may be too OCD to worry about but it's nice to know the correct bearing is available cheaply now. I have a 6203-2RS in my 430...
Really? I didn't know that actually, I cross referenced the Chinesium part number on a dayco replacement (still $58 at my cost, my lord that's a lot compared to what I'm used to) and that is the one that I went with.
Enlighten me more about the width difference and why I should consider the one you mentioned? If the gain is worth it I'll swap out the one I have it and make a video showing how it's done this time lol!
When you say the 400 pulley is difficult to find the right one for that that extend to the 430 as well?
Really? I didn't know that actually, I cross referenced the Chinesium part number on a dayco replacement (still $58 at my cost, my lord that's a lot compared to what I'm used to) and that is the one that I went with.
Enlighten me more about the width difference and why I should consider the one you mentioned? If the gain is worth it I'll swap out the one I have it and make a video showing how it's done this time lol!
When you say the 400 pulley is difficult to find the right one for that that extend to the 430 as well?
3mm prob isn't enough to lose sleep over but back when 400 owners were discussing replacement options the OE (BD20-15DUL) 37mm x 12mm x 15mm bearing could not be found ANYWHERE. This gave us 2 options, either buy an aftermarket pulley like Dayco with a Chinese bearing or press in a quality Japanese 6203-2RS. We considered it a trade-off using a thinner bearing but at least it was a good brand like NTN, Koyo, NSK, etc. The part number for the pulley has been superceded many many times. NSK offering a replacement option helps solve the issue for those who want a simple plug and play swap. Like I said earlier, I pressed a 6203-2RS into my idler pulley and I'm perfectly content with the fact that it's only 12mm wide.
3mm prob isn't enough to lose sleep over but back when 400 owners were discussing replacement options the OE (BD20-15DUL) 37mm x 12mm x 15mm bearing could not be found ANYWHERE. This gave us 2 options, either buy an aftermarket pulley like Dayco with a Chinese bearing or press in a quality Japanese 6203-2RS. We considered it a trade-off using a thinner bearing but at least it was a good brand like NTN, Koyo, NSK, etc. The part number for the pulley has been superceded many many times. NSK offering a replacement option helps solve the issue for those who want a simple plug and play swap. Like I said earlier, I pressed a 6203-2RS into my idler pulley and I'm perfectly content with the fact that it's only 12mm wide.
You guys are such geeks, and, that's what I love about you guys! (In this politically correct era someone might say who the **** do you think you are calling us geeks?!)
I am always curious and learn a lot here--the details down to the number of mm is outstanding. If I had the ability to select the correct bearing to replace I would do that.
I went OE complete tensioner because that was the only wheel I could be certain is exact--that's why I am suggesting maybe don't bother with that and try the smaller wheel first--I think it's the source of the noise...save a few $$$$!
as an aside--every 4-5 years a toilet flush valve goes bad, so I go to Lowe's and get a new one for $8, toss the old one. I NEVER REALIZED IT COULD BE REPAIRED!!! A plumber on YouTube said you can get this part and simply repair the washer for $3. $3 is better than $8! All these years I did not know the valve opens up and has a replaceable washer. We can do the same with many auto parts...
Thanks for the write up...10 minutes during lunch and my squeak is gone. I used the same NSK pulley (part number 70SPPV0408DDUL) for $36 and Bando 2240 belt.
01-12-20, 05:27 AM
did the tensioner pulley idler pulley / squeak squeal gone
(In this politically correct era someone might say who the **** do you think you are calling us geeks?!)
