Headlight Assembly Replacement
02-14-20, 10:54 AM
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Headlight Assembly Replacement
Does anyone have a resource for a 2004 LS 430 Driver's Side Headlight Assembly? This is my second one that has gone out, and I am looking for a less expensive replacement.
02-14-20, 11:27 AM
#2
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It depends on what "has gone out"... Most likely it's just a bad bulb. Please take a look at the link below for discussion on replacing the headlights.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...placement.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...placement.html
12-16-20, 07:17 AM
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2004 LS 430. HID headlight. I am being told the driver’s side headlight assembly needs replacement. There is a lot of condensation inside the assembly and the low beam light went out. I have a few questions...Can I replace the bulb only, or does condensation inside the assembly mean I should replace the entire assembly. If I replace the entire assembly, Lexus told me the part number is 81170-50251. I am only finding parts with the the part number 81170-50221. Obviously a different number, but would anyone know the difference between the 50251 and the 50221? (Besides 30 for any sarcastic answers. Ha!)
Thanks
Thanks
12-16-20, 07:31 AM
#4
50221 is for I think 2001-2003? And I think 50251 is for 2004-2006? You may want to double check the numbers but one is for earlier LS430's. I would check by VIN to make sure.
12-16-20, 07:45 AM
#5
Driver School Candidate
2004 LS 430. HID headlight. I am being told the driver’s side headlight assembly needs replacement. There is a lot of condensation inside the assembly and the low beam light went out. I have a few questions...Can I replace the bulb only, or does condensation inside the assembly mean I should replace the entire assembly. If I replace the entire assembly, Lexus told me the part number is 81170-50251. I am only finding parts with the the part number 81170-50221. Obviously a different number, but would anyone know the difference between the 50251 and the 50221? (Besides 30 for any sarcastic answers. Ha!)
Thanks
Thanks
I would be interested in buying your current non working unit if you decide to replace it. I have retrofitted a few lights before and would like to see how easy it is to work on these.
12-16-20, 11:38 AM
#6
I had the same issue with condensation, plus visible puddles within the headlight. It seems like a common problem with this generation, not sure why. I know my headlight was replaced at some point, they may not be sealed well from the factory. My headlight also had an aftermarket HID bulb cover which did not seal that opening well. The OEM bulb cover has a rubber gasket that forms a tight seal.
Replacing the ballast fixed the issue for me. OEM ballasts are around $250 depending on where you buy them. I bought on Amazon for $50. I have a flashing AFS warning light on my dash right now after replacing the ballast, waiting on a Techstream to see if I can reset it or program the ballast. My friend who replaced the entire headlight assembly has the same problem, so I'm assuming it doesn't have anything to do with OEM vs aftermarket, but rather that any new ballast/headlight needs to be programmed.
It seemed a little daunting at first, especially given I didn't know 100% it was the ballast going in, and I was wary about opening up the headlight. But it really is not that bad at all. It took me about 1.5 hrs going very slowly and 30 minutes of that was waiting for the headlight sealant to cure. I did this on a lift with the wheels off, but I doubt that makes it much easier.
1) You need to slide forward the front bumper on the side of the headlight you wish to remove, in order to access one of three screws securing the headlight assembly.
3) I removed the negative battery terminal before disconnecting all the cables attached to the headlight. Not sure if this is necessary, but doesn't hurt since you are replacing electrical components.
4) You will need a helper to pull the bumper forward while you navigate the headlight out.
5) Follow the instructions in this video to open, clean, and dry the headlight.
Should work as good as new! Minus the warning light. I haven't tried my AFS while driving but it still does the tilt mechanism upon start-up, so I know the assembly works. Hopefully Techstream can clear it. It's been a little over a month so far, with many heavy rains while parked outside and I haven't observed any condensation.
If you want to forego all this and replace the entire assembly, there are used ones available on ebay or elsewhere from $300-600, or the dealer I linked above has a new one available for $1200 (with your requested pt #) versus $1600 elsewhere. Good luck!
Edit: Amayama has a new OEM headlight assembly for $550 shipped. I'm pretty sure that none of these new OEM assemblies include the ballast/light control module, so that's something to keep in mind, you may have to replace/buy a new one anyway. Might as well try switching out the ballast first.
Replacing the ballast fixed the issue for me. OEM ballasts are around $250 depending on where you buy them. I bought on Amazon for $50. I have a flashing AFS warning light on my dash right now after replacing the ballast, waiting on a Techstream to see if I can reset it or program the ballast. My friend who replaced the entire headlight assembly has the same problem, so I'm assuming it doesn't have anything to do with OEM vs aftermarket, but rather that any new ballast/headlight needs to be programmed.
It seemed a little daunting at first, especially given I didn't know 100% it was the ballast going in, and I was wary about opening up the headlight. But it really is not that bad at all. It took me about 1.5 hrs going very slowly and 30 minutes of that was waiting for the headlight sealant to cure. I did this on a lift with the wheels off, but I doubt that makes it much easier.
1) You need to slide forward the front bumper on the side of the headlight you wish to remove, in order to access one of three screws securing the headlight assembly.
a) Remove wheel well cover (lots of screws and clips)
b) There are three screws holding the front bumper from underneath/behind the body. Two horizontal and one vertical, all the way on the side of the bumper. I don't have the diagram from the service manual handy, but you can find one rather easily showing the location of these screws.
c) Remove one additional screw securing the bumper, readily visible in front of the radiator. Removing this one isn't absolutely necessary but gives you a bit more clearance to slide out the headlight, stopping short of removing the whole bumper.
2) Slide the bumper forward and you will see the third screw securing the headlight assembly. The other two securing the headlight assembly are readily visible in the engine bay.b) There are three screws holding the front bumper from underneath/behind the body. Two horizontal and one vertical, all the way on the side of the bumper. I don't have the diagram from the service manual handy, but you can find one rather easily showing the location of these screws.
c) Remove one additional screw securing the bumper, readily visible in front of the radiator. Removing this one isn't absolutely necessary but gives you a bit more clearance to slide out the headlight, stopping short of removing the whole bumper.
3) I removed the negative battery terminal before disconnecting all the cables attached to the headlight. Not sure if this is necessary, but doesn't hurt since you are replacing electrical components.
4) You will need a helper to pull the bumper forward while you navigate the headlight out.
5) Follow the instructions in this video to open, clean, and dry the headlight.
a) I found the sealant he recommends here. I also recommend purchasing this pry tool they sell that makes the job much easier.
b) CAUTION: Heat slowly like he shows, but also pry slowly! I did not heat up one area enough and tried to pry it anyway and developed a small hairline crack in my headlight. It is small and does not go through the headlight so I'm not worried about it, but could have easily been avoided.
6) The ballast is located at the bottom. Mine was full of disgusting mildewy water and the ballast was completely corroded.b) CAUTION: Heat slowly like he shows, but also pry slowly! I did not heat up one area enough and tried to pry it anyway and developed a small hairline crack in my headlight. It is small and does not go through the headlight so I'm not worried about it, but could have easily been avoided.
a) My aftermarket ballast included a helpful tip for getting the old ballast out and the new one in. The head that attached to the HID bulb is difficult to get out of the assembly, so you can pry of the metal housing around the actual socket and it is easier to slide out of the assembly.
b) Make sure to thoroughly clean and dry the entire assembly. I used a blow dryer, as I feared the heat gun was too hot for the internal components. I took apart one of the electrical connectors (I think the one on the ballast cover that connects to the car's other wiring) to completely dry it
7) Install the new ballast and reseal as per the video aboveb) Make sure to thoroughly clean and dry the entire assembly. I used a blow dryer, as I feared the heat gun was too hot for the internal components. I took apart one of the electrical connectors (I think the one on the ballast cover that connects to the car's other wiring) to completely dry it
Should work as good as new! Minus the warning light. I haven't tried my AFS while driving but it still does the tilt mechanism upon start-up, so I know the assembly works. Hopefully Techstream can clear it. It's been a little over a month so far, with many heavy rains while parked outside and I haven't observed any condensation.
If you want to forego all this and replace the entire assembly, there are used ones available on ebay or elsewhere from $300-600, or the dealer I linked above has a new one available for $1200 (with your requested pt #) versus $1600 elsewhere. Good luck!
Edit: Amayama has a new OEM headlight assembly for $550 shipped. I'm pretty sure that none of these new OEM assemblies include the ballast/light control module, so that's something to keep in mind, you may have to replace/buy a new one anyway. Might as well try switching out the ballast first.
Last edited by nvwls; 12-17-20 at 05:42 PM.
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fclex2021 (10-27-21)
01-02-21, 11:18 PM
#7
Intermediate
Dont know if you still need help with your headlight but I maybe able to help I repair these headlights and have some spare OEM ballast etc. please message me and let me see if I can be of any assistance. Thank you and happy new year
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01-03-21, 01:41 AM
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I have not repaired this yet. My teenage son has an interest in cars, so I was thinking of attempting the repair with him. I would accept any suggestions or help! Thanks
Doug
01-06-21, 09:46 AM
#9
These lights are very easy to take apart and reseal. I think I did 8min at 225 in the oven, may have been 250.
Get a roll of sealing butyl from The Retrofit Source or a similar vendor.
That said, I've never had to add new butyl to any of my Toyota or Lexus lights, they all reseal after a second bake. Ford lights? Those needed a whole wrap of butyl.
Get a roll of sealing butyl from The Retrofit Source or a similar vendor.
That said, I've never had to add new butyl to any of my Toyota or Lexus lights, they all reseal after a second bake. Ford lights? Those needed a whole wrap of butyl.
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