It would ruin the smooth cocoon that is a ls430 though. You can’t make a ls engine quiet enough lol.

how ever a rear mount turbo on the ls430 seems like money better spent then cams. But then you get into more Torque. But 6 psi may be ok. I’d rather go that route then cams on this car.

 

Yeah I know, I almost went down that path with my mopar but in the end I didn't want to corrupt the car so to speak and the older 360 engine and trans has a very distinct feel/behavior that I didn't want to lose.

Same story with the LS plus I'm not going all out, I just want it to behave just like it does now but for the top end to have enough power to mess with modern performance sedans without being harsh.

 

Sway bars and braces are picked out, going with what I think is a reputable company? I'm not familiar with any Japanese performance brands though so it's a dice roll of sorts.

These guys seem to have no complaints that I could find over the last few days and the site selling these seems okay and the price is better than eBay. I'm going to start with the sways and brace and add in everything for subframe stiffening except for the front brace since it I'll interfere with a mod I am also doing.

https://www.aleksracing.com/front-an...06-ur-ar28-340

https://www.aleksracing.com/strut-ba...06-ur-tw2-1351

https://www.aleksracing.com/sway-bar...06-ur-ar19-341

 

I don't think this is a Japanese brand. Looks like a Russian site created only about 2 years ago and they've never been mentioned here on CL except your thread that I can find.

EDIT although I see now they're reselling and the sway brand is Ultra Racing which HAS a ton of threads (not Aleksracing). Be cautious of credit card use.

 

Thanks for that, I'll use a prepaid to be safe and start with only one part to make sure it's not a knockoff

 

I'd say to buy those UR braces and anti sways off of ebay. Most of the sellers are out of Malaysia where they're made and seem to drop ship them. You can usually get a pretty steep discount if you buy more than one since the prices listed on ebay include international shipping.

Grabbed the rear anti roll from this store and paid 280+tax for just the one bar. Pretty sure you can throw them all into your cart under the same store and request a total from the seller.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LEXUS-LS430...R/153820868215

 

I am 100% sure that site is nonsense I have eveything in UR catalog for the LS430 ,that I purchased directly from ultra racing and it cost me over $3000 for them with shipping. Ultra racing is a Malaysian company, when you get the braces there will be holes by each of the welds they drill to let gas escape, they need to be welded shut otherwise water will pool inside the bars and rot them out.

I think coilovers with a 12k/10k spring rate would be a better suspension option the braces are going to make the car incredibly stiff talking from experience.

 

I don't mind it becoming very stiff since that's he goal, the car has a lot of body flex being a unibody and all that I would want to get rid of. Mig welds okay for sealing the holes?

Noted that that site seems fake. I'll order off eBay then, does the brand have a direct sale website at all?

Im likely not going to go with coilovers honestly, I want the car to be stiff off center and during any sort of loading but relatively smooth when going straight on level pavement. All the coil-overs I looked at (Jesus there are a lot of them, didn't realize how many brands are on offer for Japanese cars) are using hard mounts with no isolation and overly stiff springs that I'm concerned when combined with aggressive bracing and sways would end up limiting mechanical grip since nothing really flexes anymore. Plus I would still have to sift through all the brands since I don't recognize any of them.

With regards to the sways and braces if there is a US company that makes the same parts can you link them? Unless UR is objectively better then I'll just follow the eBay link I guess

 

I think the UR anti rolls are the best option out of what's available. As for braces, if you're patient and willing to dig through yahoo auc a few times a week, you can probably come up with some of the Tom's and TRD braces. The Tom's and TRD stuff seems to be made from hydroformed tubes and probably a little lighter than the UR stuff that's mostly straight gauge steel.

The chassis is quite soft as you've mentioned. I've added the UR rear anti sway and am getting coilovers at 14k/12k. Pretty much doing the opposite of what you've got planned. With the rear anti sway and stock air suspension, it's quite balanced. The understeer is completely gone. The oversteer is very manageable for a car this big, and with the tire setup that I'm running, fairly predictable at the limit.

 

Striker, if not too late already, you may consider to test drive the car first with new coil overs, just to see how you like it. These high spring rates are designed to reduce spring roll, but it is also important to let the suspension extend and compress independently without comprising this feature too much. A long time ago I firmly decided to avoid thick strut bars as I really didn’t see the reason for Installing them.

However, if the plan includes drifting, then sway bars are way to go

 

If there is someone close to me I would gladly try it out before doing anything to mine, I am looking for maximum mechanical grip and no unpredictable weight shift so I can corner much harder. I usually start with sways since they prevent body motion and stop under/oversteer based on what the car does and the LS tends to lightly understeer right before it breaks away gradually.

To fix that I know I need to increase rear suspension stiffness but not too much and front can be increased a little to kill body roll in proper proportion to the rear. I also want to fix the huge amount of body flex the car has since I don't like how it feels when being pushed hard. That plus larger tires and slightly altered wheel alignment should net me a flat handling, predicable, very very minor oversteering car that can maneuver very aggressively I am hoping. I do not want to kill how the car feels in a straight line in terms of relative smoothness.

The 06 I have rides like a cloud, totally mush and rolltastic by design. My 02 already feels nothing like it at all after I replaced the suspension with non OE parts that were a bit more biased toward performance. I want more of that but not to the point it becomes harsh and wippy like my truck did when I gave it custom springs, remote res shocks from Bilstein, polys for the whole rear, massive sway bars (like I'm talking over 1 inch) and trackbars in the rear. That thing handles way way way better than you would ever expect a truck to to the point it's scary for people to come on a aggressive ride with me. They are convinced we will roll going into turns 70+, penalty is the thing is punishing to ride in and I'm not looking for that in the LS.

Thats why coilovers scare me away since I know what happened when I increased the spring rates and switched my leafs to poly mounts. Way better control and directness but man it has shock over road surfaces now.

EDIT: I'm basically looking for a GSF in Sport+ feel minus the TVD magic

 

I am definitely following this build. The engine stuff is interesting for sure and the suspension stuff as well. I love my 02 but it wallows a bit. Its all stock so far with 180k miles so I'm sure it needs some suspension refreshing. I wanted to do OEM Sport suspension struts and maybe Tanabe NF210's but I dont believe they make those anymore. I don't want coilovers for the same reasons you dont. Solid mounts and aggressive spring rates on all of them. I want MAYBE an inch lower but mostly just a more planted feel like an old Msport BMW. Nothing crazy stiff or bouncy just more controlled and sporty feeling. I've never driven a GSF but I heard they do feel nice in sport + mode. You mentioned another LS, do you have a build thread for that car? ANd you mentioned a truck, what do you have? I just picked up a 2011 Tundra that I love but it needs some suspension love as well.

 

The other LS is an 06 that was supposed to be mine but when I told my grandpa this white 02 would be up for sale since he wanted it when I visited him he asked what I replaced it with. He liked it so much he said he wanted that one instead and of course I let him buy it and handled the cleaning/maintenance/shipping for him since he has always wanted that type of car. It's a very low mile near perfect example

The GSF drives perfectly for a street car, not overpowered and you can dial it back to relaxed and just cruise. Good mpg, nice seats, infotainment can be mostly turned off and ignored (I dislike those systems in cars, pair my phone and go away). And it still is semi practical.

My truck that I mentioned is an 03 ram 1500 fully loaded that retains the stock body and interior, everything else is altered, upgraded, using one off parts, and no mechanical system is stock anymore. It was my first car and the vehicle I performed a lot of work on and built up my understanding of trans/engine design and suspension design/body control. The only sign from the outside it's not stock is you can see the A/F and boost gauges on the drivers Apillar and if you look into the rims you can see the SRT-10 brakes and if you look through the grill a bunch of extra coolers. If it's not running that is......if it's on then you can hear it's anything but stock and it's fun to watch people try and figure out what vehicle the noise is coming from.

This go around I do not want to have to build up the trans, install billet input/outputs, billet TQ converter, axles halves, have a bunch of one off springs made, and build up a transfer case and instal higher rated front CVs among dozens of other changes including forcing induction and oil cooling/accumulator system. Went from 245hp flywheel to 690 wheel.

 

Tune and bars will be installed likely next week or so when I have time, just got a house and got married so have been a little distracted.

Machine shop has confirmed my cam selection will be doable and I will be having the stock heads flow tested to see what needs to be done port work wise to support the raised RPM requirements

 

If you're referring to the anti-sway bars, you shouldn't feel anything from them unless you're taking a corner. Straight line driving, you should feel nothing from them.