Anyway to get ecu to keep CEL's off
#1
Anyway to get ecu to keep CEL's off
I am wondering does anyone know of anyway to trick the ecu into making all the cel's stay off. I am checking the realities of doing a LS7 swap while still being able to pass a NY state inspection that requires a OBDII plug in.
#3
It doesn't work like that the cars ecu has to match the vehicle its in because that goes straight to the NY DMV and it will come up with an error on the inspection machine which is linked to the NY DMV and I will fail the inspection. I have shops that will overlook the engine swap the DMV is my issue.
#4
Instructor
You can use the LS7 ecm as suggested above and that can be programmed to turn off the cel. Even if you get the ecm sorted out you will still have to deal with the vsc and trac lights on constantly because both of those systems will be rendered useless.
#6
Instructor
Having tuned cars for a living I can tell you that it'll be impossible to get the factory ecm to control anything but the original engine. Toyota ecms are the most difficult to tune as there is no software that can do that. Any tuning done to a stock engine is usually accomplished with a piggyback device that manipulates the data the ecm is seeing to fool it into doing what you want. Any modified Toyota engine is tuned using a standalone ecm, some of which are actually GM LS based.
#7
Lexus Champion
It doesn't work like that the cars ecu has to match the vehicle its in because that goes straight to the NY DMV and it will come up with an error on the inspection machine which is linked to the NY DMV and I will fail the inspection. I have shops that will overlook the engine swap the DMV is my issue.
This is kinda odd since Cali even allows you to put a newer engine in an older car without issues
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#8
Wait wait wait, so you just need to plug it in to pass? Then pull the whole engine/trans out and ECU harness and just power it on whenever you need to pass emissions, put the driveline in a truck bed and take it to your inspection place
This is kinda odd since Cali even allows you to put a newer engine in an older car without issues
This is kinda odd since Cali even allows you to put a newer engine in an older car without issues
NY allows engine swaps but the car has to be from 1995-1996 and older. You were talking about the resistors for the ecu and stuff I am thinking this is the only way this is gonna happen. I was gonna do the swap into a 95 sc300 but I really love my LS.
Also the NY state inspection machines have a camera in them that goes straight to the NY state DMV so I would have to have it plug into the oem obdII port. NY has the strictest vehicle laws in the country in my opinion.
Last edited by 05ls430518; 11-15-20 at 06:19 AM.
#9
Lexus Fanatic
This is getting James Bond, but what if the OBDII connector went to a dummy ECU or some sort of USB stick? I know, that's fraud.
Back in the day (even like 2000 or maybe 2002), in PA, the cars went on a dyno, with a probe in the tailpipe. You could have a SES lamp lit and pass, as long as the tailpipe readings were OK. At some point, they simply began to plug in to 1996+ cars. This means you cannot simply reset the computer, no lights, then drive to an inspection, because the I/M readiness will be no. I know on my wife's GM that's a *****. 700 miles later, the EVAP is not ready. I followed the GM instructions and gave up. I've also followed Nissan's instructions to no avail. It's like drive 6 miles with AC and defrost on, keep it at 4000 rpm (blow 3 red lights while you're at it), then place one hand on your **** and set cruise for 70 mph and drive 10 miles without stopping. It's a real joke better to not ever disconnect your battery!
That is a good question though if there were an engine swap, what standards are then used? I suppose the link to the commonwealth is still going to match up to the year/make/model registered via DMV, but the engine will then be inaccurate.
Back in the day (even like 2000 or maybe 2002), in PA, the cars went on a dyno, with a probe in the tailpipe. You could have a SES lamp lit and pass, as long as the tailpipe readings were OK. At some point, they simply began to plug in to 1996+ cars. This means you cannot simply reset the computer, no lights, then drive to an inspection, because the I/M readiness will be no. I know on my wife's GM that's a *****. 700 miles later, the EVAP is not ready. I followed the GM instructions and gave up. I've also followed Nissan's instructions to no avail. It's like drive 6 miles with AC and defrost on, keep it at 4000 rpm (blow 3 red lights while you're at it), then place one hand on your **** and set cruise for 70 mph and drive 10 miles without stopping. It's a real joke better to not ever disconnect your battery!
That is a good question though if there were an engine swap, what standards are then used? I suppose the link to the commonwealth is still going to match up to the year/make/model registered via DMV, but the engine will then be inaccurate.
#10
To clarify I am doing a texas speed 427 (LS7) with a tr6060 trans it will be controlled by a holley dominator I am using there digital dash, etc. So the holley will control the LS7 and tr6060 the stock lexus ecu just needs to appear that its functioning fine so I can pass an obdII test.
I am well aware that toyota ecu's are almost untenable I have been messing with the LS430 ecu changing stuff but it rewrites back to the stock tune when you shut the car off. Even if I shut all the sesnors off like you do with GM cars and HP runers I will still fail because it will show that the sensors have been turned off.
I am well aware that toyota ecu's are almost untenable I have been messing with the LS430 ecu changing stuff but it rewrites back to the stock tune when you shut the car off. Even if I shut all the sesnors off like you do with GM cars and HP runers I will still fail because it will show that the sensors have been turned off.
#11
Lexus Fanatic
Sorry I was not clear the ecu also has to have all moniters ready and you can only have 1 NA on but everything else in the ecu has to be within its normal parameters any CEL is an automatic failure. So basically I need to trick the ecu into thinking the stock motor and trans are still in the car and all sensors are reading what they are supposed to do.
NY allows engine swaps but the car has to be from 1995-1996 and older. You were talking about the resistors for the ecu and stuff I am thinking this is the only way this is gonna happen. I was gonna do the swap into a 95 sc300 but I really love my LS.
NY allows engine swaps but the car has to be from 1995-1996 and older. You were talking about the resistors for the ecu and stuff I am thinking this is the only way this is gonna happen. I was gonna do the swap into a 95 sc300 but I really love my LS.
#12
Lexus Fanatic
To clarify I am doing a texas speed 427 (LS7) with a tr6060 trans it will be controlled by a holley dominator I am using there digital dash, etc. So the holley will control the LS7 and tr6060 the stock lexus ecu just needs to appear that its functioning fine so I can pass an obdII test.
I am well aware that toyota ecu's are almost untenable I have been messing with the LS430 ecu changing stuff but it rewrites back to the stock tune when you shut the car off. Even if I shut all the sesnors off like you do with GM cars and HP runers I will still fail because it will show that the sensors have been turned off.
I am well aware that toyota ecu's are almost untenable I have been messing with the LS430 ecu changing stuff but it rewrites back to the stock tune when you shut the car off. Even if I shut all the sesnors off like you do with GM cars and HP runers I will still fail because it will show that the sensors have been turned off.
#13
Instructor
I see what you mean now. I still think it'll be extremely difficult because a lot of the monitors are run as soon as the key is turned. You would have to emulate O2 readings, O2 heater circuits, all signals from the evap system, etc. I think your best bet would be to rent yourself a summer vacation home (i.e. a PO box) in a place that doesn't require emissions and register the car there.
As an aside, most states will allow a car to pass emissions with at least one monitor having not been run. I know here in AZ I can pass without the evap monitor having been run. This is great because the most common cel is for a small evap leak that is usually hard to find/fix. The solution here is to fill the gas tank full, reset the cel, drive until there is still a little more than 3/4 of a tank, then go get tested. You can refill the tank but don't let it get below 3/4 full. Toyotas won't run the evap monitor until there is under 3/4 of a tank of fuel. All other monitors will have run and the car will pass.
As an aside, most states will allow a car to pass emissions with at least one monitor having not been run. I know here in AZ I can pass without the evap monitor having been run. This is great because the most common cel is for a small evap leak that is usually hard to find/fix. The solution here is to fill the gas tank full, reset the cel, drive until there is still a little more than 3/4 of a tank, then go get tested. You can refill the tank but don't let it get below 3/4 full. Toyotas won't run the evap monitor until there is under 3/4 of a tank of fuel. All other monitors will have run and the car will pass.
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#14
Lexus Fanatic
I see what you mean now. I still think it'll be extremely difficult because a lot of the monitors are run as soon as the key is turned. You would have to emulate O2 readings, O2 heater circuits, all signals from the evap system, etc. I think your best bet would be to rent yourself a summer vacation home (i.e. a PO box) in a place that doesn't require emissions and register the car there.
As an aside, most states will allow a car to pass emissions with at least one monitor having not been run. I know here in AZ I can pass without the evap monitor having been run. This is great because the most common cel is for a small evap leak that is usually hard to find/fix. The solution here is to fill the gas tank full, reset the cel, drive until there is still a little more than 3/4 of a tank, then go get tested. You can refill the tank but don't let it get below 3/4 full. Toyotas won't run the evap monitor until there is under 3/4 of a tank of fuel. All other monitors will have run and the car will pass.
As an aside, most states will allow a car to pass emissions with at least one monitor having not been run. I know here in AZ I can pass without the evap monitor having been run. This is great because the most common cel is for a small evap leak that is usually hard to find/fix. The solution here is to fill the gas tank full, reset the cel, drive until there is still a little more than 3/4 of a tank, then go get tested. You can refill the tank but don't let it get below 3/4 full. Toyotas won't run the evap monitor until there is under 3/4 of a tank of fuel. All other monitors will have run and the car will pass.
If the above were not true, one could reset the computer in the parking lot of the inspection station, and pass as long as the light doesn't come back at the time of inspection. In reality, why not go back to measuring at the tailpipe, other than cost...
So what you're describing seems to be to use the 1 not ready is OK, and get tested before the light comes back. My cousin's been doing that on his M5 for years. But he has the additional problem in MASS of I/M needs to be ready--so he has to find that point.
#15
Instructor
When the codes are erased the cel turns off. It only returns after the faulty monitor is run. As long as the only issue is the evap the code won't resurface until the tank is under 3/4. 1/4 tank is plenty of driving to run all the other monitors. Mine were run within 10 minutes of in-town driving. In AZ you can pass without the evap having been run.