The BIG stereo install
#17
Someone did an install of an 8w7 in the rear deck, free air. I was actually thinking about getting one, but the stereo isn't as big a deal for me these days (all that extra $$$ goes into my home system) as it was year ago, so decided on the Dayton Ultimax instead. Still a hell of a beefy sub and should do the job quite nicely. Of course, now I can't find the pic of that JL install on Google. Go figure.
#19
Here ya go. I did the same thing....wanted a backup cam. Installed a regular screen and couldn't live with the glare due to my light interior color.
Components:
1. Kenwood DDX8906s DVD tilt
2. cheap $7 raw driver 6.5 front door
3. JL xd700.5 -> Hertz crossover -> front door and oem tweeter->oem rear doors->oem sub
4. Rockford Prime 500 2ch -> 12 shallow mount Pioneer that I had laying around.
Amps were gained with o-scope. I had to run speaker wires from HU and utilized all factory speaker wiring. I used DIN Rail terminal blocks and breakers. The terminal blocks are plug-on and makes configuration and routing changes very easy. This is my 3rd iteration of my system...this final one I was able to power the oem sub and shallow mount. I also had a Infinity 10'' perfect in their before settling on the shallow mount. The cheap o 6.5 actually sound pretty clean. I still have a set of Hertz tweeters that I plan to put under the existing tweeter grill, but I have zero time currently to run new wires to them.
This is mainly a SQ setup. I had planned to run my Rockford DSP but I don't think its necassary at the moment. I have a set of Dayton 3.5'' raw drivers that I love in my current Truck. Still trying to find a way to install them on the dash.
Components:
1. Kenwood DDX8906s DVD tilt
2. cheap $7 raw driver 6.5 front door
3. JL xd700.5 -> Hertz crossover -> front door and oem tweeter->oem rear doors->oem sub
4. Rockford Prime 500 2ch -> 12 shallow mount Pioneer that I had laying around.
Amps were gained with o-scope. I had to run speaker wires from HU and utilized all factory speaker wiring. I used DIN Rail terminal blocks and breakers. The terminal blocks are plug-on and makes configuration and routing changes very easy. This is my 3rd iteration of my system...this final one I was able to power the oem sub and shallow mount. I also had a Infinity 10'' perfect in their before settling on the shallow mount. The cheap o 6.5 actually sound pretty clean. I still have a set of Hertz tweeters that I plan to put under the existing tweeter grill, but I have zero time currently to run new wires to them.
This is mainly a SQ setup. I had planned to run my Rockford DSP but I don't think its necassary at the moment. I have a set of Dayton 3.5'' raw drivers that I love in my current Truck. Still trying to find a way to install them on the dash.
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Squirrel1 (01-28-21)
#21
Haha... Just in case you were. LOL
Someone did an install of an 8w7 in the rear deck, free air. I was actually thinking about getting one, but the stereo isn't as big a deal for me these days (all that extra $$$ goes into my home system) as it was year ago, so decided on the Dayton Ultimax instead. Still a hell of a beefy sub and should do the job quite nicely. Of course, now I can't find the pic of that JL install on Google. Go figure.
Someone did an install of an 8w7 in the rear deck, free air. I was actually thinking about getting one, but the stereo isn't as big a deal for me these days (all that extra $$$ goes into my home system) as it was year ago, so decided on the Dayton Ultimax instead. Still a hell of a beefy sub and should do the job quite nicely. Of course, now I can't find the pic of that JL install on Google. Go figure.
#22
I have bought a head unit. Kenwood ddx9705s used off ebay its the same exact head unit i have in my tahoe so i figure it will be easy for me to test. 7" cd reciever with tilt screen and wireless android auto. I wanted the tilt because its kind of a low spot these mount in and i didnt want a bad viewing angle. Plus im too old to give up cd's!
#27
Still goin, bought a jl audio 10w3 im going to mount it so that its facing up under the rear deck firing under the hole for the factory 8" sub in a sealed box. Amp rack with all the electeonics will be under that and i plan on a cover for the whole thing so that when you look in the trunk all you will see is a false wall.
#28
Still goin, bought a jl audio 10w3 im going to mount it so that its facing up under the rear deck firing under the hole for the factory 8" sub in a sealed box. Amp rack with all the electeonics will be under that and i plan on a cover for the whole thing so that when you look in the trunk all you will see is a false wall.
"I'll build a box under the factory rear deck hole" has been my go-to-but-never-attempted-nor-achieved subwoofer pipe dream.
The amount of reinforcement I'd wager is involved to make the rear deck not rattle will be a feat.
My 10W3v3 is running at a measly 300W (2 Ohms) in a JL HO box sitting right under the rear deck and the rattle can be pretty atrocious.
#29
Keep us posted as to how you're going to build that.
"I'll build a box under the factory rear deck hole" has been my go-to-but-never-attempted-nor-achieved subwoofer pipe dream.
The amount of reinforcement I'd wager is involved to make the rear deck not rattle will be a feat.
My 10W3v3 is running at a measly 300W (2 Ohms) in a JL HO box sitting right under the rear deck and the rattle can be pretty atrocious.
"I'll build a box under the factory rear deck hole" has been my go-to-but-never-attempted-nor-achieved subwoofer pipe dream.
The amount of reinforcement I'd wager is involved to make the rear deck not rattle will be a feat.
My 10W3v3 is running at a measly 300W (2 Ohms) in a JL HO box sitting right under the rear deck and the rattle can be pretty atrocious.