When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you can't stand on the throttle and constantly have to be careful with it what's the point? It should be built to withstand the output without issue or it will blow that one time you stay in it too long.
if you destroy an engine after hitting the rev limiter, then you had your redline set too high, the whole point of a rev limiter is to restrict rpm’s to a safe operating speed.
if you destroy an engine after hitting the rev limiter, then you had your redline set too high, the whole point of a rev limiter is to restrict rpm’s to a safe operating speed.
You stay in it on an engine with stock ring gaps and you will see what happens
Update , have had my The Cartune Company in NZ tweaked ECU in for about 3 months now............and it's freaking awesome !!
I went for the two map option which is hooked up to the PWR button and holy Lexus does it go hard .
Huge improvement on the first map especially off idle as the ECU not allowing full throttle in the first two gears is gone .
Plus it still learns on both maps , so far it's just getting better and better .
When pulling away on the Super Map you have to be very gentle on the throttle as it will just light up and that's with Michelin Pilot sport 4's on the back .
I had a go against a manual Nissan 370Z a couple of days back and I beat him away from the lights , I then slowed down to let him catch up and we went again from about 60 KPH and I pulled away from him slowly to beat him again .
Not by much each time and I was on the Super Map ( of course !! ) but those things are not slow !!
Enough to say I am very very pleased plus with the ACIS delete and the second set of oxygen sensors delete and the EGR delete and the immobilizer delete plus the auto now changes quicker and seems to hold gears a bit longer and when it changes seems to have changed for the better as well .
Now I just need to hunt down an 2010 ISF torsen diff as it need a slippery diff fur shore !!
My Elate IC M112 setup continues to evolve as well, still on stock ECU. Current Setup is; “390cc” static rated injectors @ 4.5 bar, 255 Ti FP, Split Second ENR, SAFC, 2 steps colder NGK iridium, setrab engine oil cooler, and a MKIV Mishimoto Radiator. I mentioned the last 2 items as I believe excess heat has been a primary issue / failure point of these engines. I’m now making 383whp and 370wtq through the AR5 and not once have I experienced knock or even the slightest pre-ignition. As Groot mentions, traction is definitely harder to achieve with anything over ~60% throttle in 1st and 2nd and I’m running a CBS billet ATB Torsen. Cold weather air density and 255 rears are partly to blame, think some 275/285’s are definitely in my future.
A few things I’d like to mention, there are so many misunderstood/ misrepresented things online forums/ FB etc., about these UZ VVTi rods/ rings / pistons. Based on the many years of reading and tuning my own car, I don’t believe we have seen a final upper power level/ limit on an intercooled PD SC’d car with a stock bottom end, and on a well tuned configuration. Case in point, some of these earliest innovator’s were able to achieve 430+ whp and similar wheel torque, via single turbo, Air to Air IC, stock 3uz, so that should tell you the engine has the capability and nowhere near as fragile as some would have you believe. As the old saying goes, it’s so much about the tune, with our higher comp ratio making low IAT’s combined with safe 11’s AFR’s in ALL driving situations, that much more critical. This goes to show you can’t cut corners and many have pushed too far without supporting mods/ tuning/ intercooling. The 2uz failures from those running TRD SC’rs, being entirely preventable with adequate / balanced fueling and even moreso if they had been properly intercooled.
Another interesting thing to note, it seems the ignition timing with the stock ECU on the Automatic A650e cars is different than on a manual swapped car running an ATEMU device. My ignition timing responds extremely quickly and safely at higher engine loads/ MAF g/s, timing dips down well into lower teens once load hits 100% and into Open Loop. It usually goes down to 13* at 3-4 psi @ 3k rpm and slowly climbs back to 15* by redline. From the many standalone tunes I’ve seen online, LINK forums etc., at similar pressure levels, and 10.5:1 engines, this has been a safe/ conservative range.
Groot, I’d be curious to know what kind of Timing you are seeing on those, 2 maps at various loads and rpms?
Cheers! ~360whp previous; 3.25” pulley, factory cats & y-pipe, factory mufflers
~380whp recent; 3.25” pulley, cat delete and 2.25” X pipe, factory mufflers supporting data points near end of a run
When I did the knock sensors , loom and started at receiving the referbed upgraded two map ECU I also fitted an IAT gauge .
Off boost we are seeing heat soak and inlet manifold temperature rather that boost temperature and having just been out at 30 degrees outside temp cruising at 100Kph IAT was 90 to 96 degrees , bringing it on boost seeing 4.8 PSI boost the IAT temps dropped really quickly and I was down to 86 degrees before I had to back off at 160 KPH in this police infused world !!
I can tell you that if I could have stayed on boost long enough it would have dropped to under 76 degrees but no less than 71 degrees .
With the engine first warmed up and IAT showing 56 degrees off boost and I go on boost IAT temp rises to 71 degrees , when IAT temp at 88 off boost , on boost will bring it back to 71 degrees .
At night with outside temp at 20 degrees and IAT at 90 degrees after some on boost running , where and when I can stay on boost long enough the IAT will drop to a minimum of 72 degrees !!
Seeing as I'm running non intercooled at max 6.8 Psi those IAT figures are very very pleasing !!
I've talked to Travis at Elate and he thinks I should also be very very pleased with those IAT temps on boost .
As a note I lifted the back of the bonnet 12mm about 3 weeks ago and I have seen approximately 10 degree drop in manifold static heat soak ( as much as I can ascertain seeing as the outside temperature has gone up about 10 degrees as well !! ) and no change in on boost temps which one would not expect .
I have the exhaust piece for a third cat delete with an X pipe no resonators or rear pipes in 2.5" , at the same time the wide band will also go in , then I will be able to tell whats what !!
God ( Kelvin the ECU Guru !! ) will not let the timing information out at this time I think !!
He has to have some secrets !!
I will add that at 100Kph constant if I go to the Supermap the speed goes up 12KPH !!
More timing for sure but how much ??
I would just be guessing .
I figure I'm about 110 HP up with 6.5 Psi .
Thanks for sharing all that IAT data. I have a ported m112 ready to go in and will be installing IAT sensor at that time. However with mine being an IC manifold and smaller pulley, I’ll be curious to see what differences I have. If only you Aussies used Fahrenheit, would make my comparison much easier lol!
Also I’ve heard others say off boost manifold temps are actually higher and opening throttle getting air moving through the rotors cools things down nicely, which your data absolutely supports.
As far as 2.5” exhaust, I think you’d be fine if your doing that only mid-pipe back however I would not suggest that large of a diameter all the way to the header/ extractors. Drivability at low rpms will noticeably suffer and acceleration will be laggy with 2.5”. I’d recommend dual 2.25” either all the way out. Or 2.25” from headers to (under driver Y/X pipe) area, then progressively larger, maximum 2.5” duals towards the rear of vehicle and I believe you’ll be happy.
I’d say your estimate of 110hp @ 6.5 psi is close. FWIW, I went from 250whp NA with a manual transmission to 330whp at ~7 psi. But since your are 4.3 vs me 4.0 you could be right on the money. Once you get the exhaust worked out go get a dyno and share your results.
Also as for checking your timing, all you need is an OBDII port reader device. You can see MAF flow, coolant temp, ignition timing, ST & LT fuel trims, among the many other good data available.
I’d highly recommend having one for a such a small $$ investment. I’d never had been able to tune mine without it. I have both the hardwire shop style and wireless Bluetooth style but the lag with BT makes interpreting readings a little trickier. I always use the hardwire when on the dyno for best results. Good Luck!
I hear you and I will go down to 2.25 into the X pipe and then 2.5 from there , I'm well aware I might have to add a hot dog in later to quiet it down a bit if its to loud , I'm also seriously considering doing the exits behind the rear wheels or something like that just to be a bit different .
Main thing is the wide band will go in at the same time , gauge is already installed .
A great awesome Christmas to you and all you know and stay safe
.
I hear you and I will go down to 2.25 into the X pipe and then 2.5 from there , I'm well aware I might have to add a hot dog in later to quiet it down a bit if its to loud , I'm also seriously considering doing the exits behind the rear wheels or something like that just to be a bit different .
Main thing is the wide band will go in at the same time , gauge is already installed .
A great awesome Christmas to you and all you know and stay safe
.
Yes some “hotdog” resonators would be recommended if you have cats deleted and everything straight piped, to keep rasp at bay. While I like the unique idea / look of exhaust exiting in front of rear tire, I also value a civilized “note” under certain circumstances. I kept the high quality OE resonators in the factory mid pipe for that reason but welded in some dependable stainless E-dumps before the mufflers when I want a bit more music.
With my headers, cat delete and 2.25” X-pipe the factory resonators dial things down just enough yet still retain plenty of the V8 noise. This is an old pic but shows the full bore BadLanz HPE dumps and turn downs, which help drive the sound to the ground. Keep us posted on the progress you make with the LS and would love to see what the dyno shows one day.
02-10-22, 05:05 AM
