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I have been throwing code P0325 for bad knock sensor in Bank 1. I have seen many guys and threads discussing splicing the wire from the good knock sensor into both and have seen alot of photos of ECU pinouts, etc - however I have not seen any pics of the actual splice, which specific wires, etc. I do not want to rely on cryptic diagrams from 6-7 years ago when cutting wires to my ECU. Does anyone have photos of the splice or of the entire process?
ps I have seen Revrun's thread and although it has some good info it doesn't give me enough to feel confident in doing this temp. fix. Any help would be immensely appreciated!!
The wires you want are in the second connector down (towards the front of the car)from the top of the ECU.
The 2 wires you want are the slightly thicker gauge black and white ones on the edge of the connector closest to the front of the car.
Cut the black wire an inch or so from the connector. Insulate the end of the wire that heads towards the engine. It will not be used. Strip a little of the other end of the black wire that heads into the ECU. Splice a small, maybe 2" jumper wire into it. Carefully remove a 1/2" section of insulation from the white wire about an inch or so from the connector. DO NOT cut the wire. Push a small pick tool through the middle of the wire strands at the ECU end of the piece you stripped. Feed the unused end of the jumper wire through the hole and wrap the wires together (search "Westinghouse splice" if you are confused. Insulate this connection and you are good to go.
No problem. For anyone reading this thread in the future beware this procedure is only for the p0325 sensor 1 failure. If you have a p0330 sensor 2 failure, switch the wire colors
For me personally - it’s a few things. funds are tight, living in socal I’m getting quoted around $1.2-1.5K for the job and it’s just not an option at the moment. From what I understand p0325 is somewhat common, and tends to be something to do with wiring or a dead sensor - rather than detecting a knock issue which would trip both sensors throwing both codes p0325 and p0330.
Other forums and vids including some of the gs and Toyota guys have mentioned doing the job (which is a b**** and a half or costs an arm and a leg) changing both KS and the CEL/limp mode persisting due to brittle and old wiring, etc.
On another note - just did this job - took me about 5 minutes taking my sweet time on stripping the white wire lol. Car runs fantastic! Will be cleaning the MAF in the morning.
For me personally - it’s a few things. funds are tight, living in socal I’m getting quoted around $1.2-1.5K for the job and it’s just not an option at the moment. From what I understand p0325 is somewhat common, and tends to be something to do with wiring or a dead sensor - rather than detecting a knock issue which would trip both sensors throwing both codes p0325 and p0330.
Other forums and vids including some of the gs and Toyota guys have mentioned doing the job (which is a b**** and a half or costs an arm and a leg) changing both KS and the CEL/limp mode persisting due to brittle and old wiring, etc.
I hear ya.
I had knock code coming on intermittently at one point going into limp mode into it came to stay lol.
I budgeted for the replacement wiring, and both sensors. The job took way longer than it should've at the time it was the most intensive work I'd done on a vehicle. Broke the coolant temp sensor trying to wrestle the beast of an intake in and out. Vacuum line was clogged with a dead spider or some crap by the time i was done haha so I had no brake boost too when i finally started it back up.
Its definitely as much work as you're getting quoted for. Would be alot easier with shop equipment. I changed most rubber bits and refreshed starter along the way. Knock code never came back by changing wiring and both sensors!
Glad the fix solved your issue and got you back on the road for now!
I've read the posts on bypassing the knock sensor or replacing the sensor. I guess I'm old school and would prefer replacing the sensor or repairing the wiring.
However, I'm really wondering if bad knock sensors are the result of excessive use. How much of it could be from poor fuel quality such always using regular gas. If you are a
I've read the posts on bypassing the knock sensor or replacing the sensor. I guess I'm old school and would prefer replacing the sensor or repairing the wiring.
However, I'm really wondering if bad knock sensors are the result of excessive use. How much of it could be from poor fuel quality such always using regular gas. If you are a
I always used premium in my LS400 and now in this LS430. Why in the world would one use regular gasoline when the manufacturer specifies premium? That would be like using 5W-30 oil in a motorcycle that requires 20W-50 oil. It may be cheaper but good luck...
And... If the octane is too low the knock sensors will cause the ECM to pull timing thus reducing VE and MPG so what's the point?