What to do during TB
#1
What to do during TB
I got the whole.kit so ill be doing WP and tensioner, thermostat, and drive belt.
Should I change spark plugs? How do I know how many to order or should I swap out all 8?
Valve gasket? Coils?
Im also replacing the radiator. Should I swap hoses?
If anyone can provide part numbers I'd appreciate it!!
Should I change spark plugs? How do I know how many to order or should I swap out all 8?
Valve gasket? Coils?
Im also replacing the radiator. Should I swap hoses?
If anyone can provide part numbers I'd appreciate it!!
#4
I'd just do plugs unless the valve cover gaskets are leaking or the coils are wet with oil. Hoses are 50/50, depends how they look. I always go new because they are cheap and easy. I leave them attached to the radiator when I remove it.
#5
My mechanic is doing the whole thing so im just trying to get parts prior too.
#6
RockAuto has the best deals on the OEM Denso or NGK iridiums. Don't buy these from Amazon or eBay as they are most likely counterfeit. While you're at it you could get a complete valve cover gasket set just in case. My Fel-Pro kit was $30 for both valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, and the 18 bolt grommets.
#7
RockAuto has the best deals on the OEM Denso or NGK iridiums. Don't buy these from Amazon or eBay as they are most likely counterfeit. While you're at it you could get a complete valve cover gasket set just in case. My Fel-Pro kit was $30 for both valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, and the 18 bolt grommets.
Do I need pully tensioners?
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#8
The plugs should be changed at 120k so if you have no record of them being done I would get them. The tensioner and pulley are separate pieces but both should have been included with your timing kit.
#9
That radiator shown in post 3 should definitely be replaced. It has to come off anyway to get to the TB and the new ones are not that expensive at all. Of all the possible things that can go wrong with the LS 430 engine (and there are not many) the cooling system is one and attention should be given to it. Replace the radiator cap of course too. New PCV valve too. RE: valve cover gaskets, check all the bolts to make sure they are snug and if they are not leaking leave alone.
#11
That radiator shown in post 3 should definitely be replaced. It has to come off anyway to get to the TB and the new ones are not that expensive at all. Of all the possible things that can go wrong with the LS 430 engine (and there are not many) the cooling system is one and attention should be given to it. Replace the radiator cap of course too. New PCV valve too. RE: valve cover gaskets, check all the bolts to make sure they are snug and if they are not leaking leave alone.
#12
#13
PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve allows pressure from combustion blowby (oily mist and vapors) in the crankcase to be vented back to the intake and burned. It, or the associated hoses, can get clogged with oily goo, especially with a car that has had a lack of maintenance, infrequent oil changes, or rings that are worn.. If that happens, you have excess pressure building up in the crankcase and it has to relieved somehow, usually showing up as an oil leak such as valve cover gasket leak. PCV valves are a maintenance item, after 15 years and 100,000 miles or so they should be at least inspected or replaced. And look at the associated lines and make sure they are all clear and free of sludge and not leaking oil.
A radiator cap is also a maintenance item, serves an important function to relieve pressure in the cooling system and allow return of coolant when the engine cools down. The gaskets can get brittle or leak after 15 + years and can have metal fatigue in the clamping mechanism. after many years. They don't last forever.
Use OEM for both parts.
A radiator cap is also a maintenance item, serves an important function to relieve pressure in the cooling system and allow return of coolant when the engine cools down. The gaskets can get brittle or leak after 15 + years and can have metal fatigue in the clamping mechanism. after many years. They don't last forever.
Use OEM for both parts.
#14
PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve allows pressure from combustion blowby (oily mist and vapors) in the crankcase to be vented back to the intake and burned. It, or the associated hoses, can get clogged with oily goo, especially with a car that has had a lack of maintenance, infrequent oil changes, or rings that are worn.. If that happens, you have excess pressure building up in the crankcase and it has to relieved somehow, usually showing up as an oil leak such as valve cover gasket leak. PCV valves are a maintenance item, after 15 years and 100,000 miles or so they should be at least inspected or replaced. And look at the associated lines and make sure they are all clear and free of sludge and not leaking oil.
A radiator cap is also a maintenance item, serves an important function to relieve pressure in the cooling system and allow return of coolant when the engine cools down. The gaskets can get brittle or leak after 15 + years and can have metal fatigue in the clamping mechanism. after many years. They don't last forever.
Use OEM for both parts.
A radiator cap is also a maintenance item, serves an important function to relieve pressure in the cooling system and allow return of coolant when the engine cools down. The gaskets can get brittle or leak after 15 + years and can have metal fatigue in the clamping mechanism. after many years. They don't last forever.
Use OEM for both parts.
#15
There are cam seals, and for the LS43O I believe a crank seal (also known as "rear main seal"). Two different animals. At 130K miles you may or may not need to replace the cam seals (probably sold as a kit for both cams, not sure). There are two schools of thought on this - 1) proactively replace them since it is a big job and doing them when a timing belt job is being done makes sense, and 2) only replace when they start to fail and oil leaks start showing up. I would defer to others that have more miles on their car and more experience than me.
In my '05, also now at 130K miles, I have no oil leaks at all and will do a thorough inspection for leaks at the time the next timing belt job is due and may or may not replace the cam seals. My car has a history of 5,000 mile oil changes since new, the last 80,000 miles at least with full synthetic oil. and I very well may postpone the cam seals, if it ain't broke don't fix it.
In my '05, also now at 130K miles, I have no oil leaks at all and will do a thorough inspection for leaks at the time the next timing belt job is due and may or may not replace the cam seals. My car has a history of 5,000 mile oil changes since new, the last 80,000 miles at least with full synthetic oil. and I very well may postpone the cam seals, if it ain't broke don't fix it.