TwentyMax

Hello everyone, I’ve recently replaced the cam seals on my 2001 ls430 with 204k miles. It wasn't a fun job to do but I did learn a lot as well. Hopefully I can help you guys out on this job since there aren't many tutorials out there on this job. I'm not going into detail on how to do the timing belt and water pump replacement since there are many threads and videos out there on how to do it. I'll mostly talk about on how to replace the cam seals. I tried to take as many photos as I can but I wanted to get this car running too.

Symptoms:
Oil leaks on the ground or driveway. Usually in the front of the engine.
Alternator having oil on it. (Oil can be on alternator if the valve cover gaskets aren't seal right or the camshaft housing plug are leaky too, so I would check those before doing this!)
Oil inside camshaft pulley due to timing tube seal leaking oil inside

What you need:
OEM timing belt kit or Aisin timing belt kit (Crank and cam seals should come with them)
Service Bolt (Thread Diameter 6mm, Thread Pitch 1mm, and Bolt Length should be somewhere between 16-20mm long)
Valve cover gaskets and spark plug seals
Valve cover bolt O-Rings
8 O-Rings for main camshaft bearing cap
New spark plugs (optional)
23 mm or 24mm wrench (I used a 24mm it worked okay, it might be a little too big but it works)
Torque specifications for certain parts
Some mechanical knowledge
Patience and Time


Teardown:
Before you do this job, I would disconnect the battery just incase. In order to get to the cam seals, you’ll need to remove some things in way. You’ll want to do this like you’re doing a TB & WP job. This means you’ll need to remove the radiator so it’ll be easier to do this job. Next you want to take off the idler pulleys, serpentine belt, and front covers that cover the timing belt, water pump, and the idlers. This will also mean you need to unbolt the AC compressor and alternator from the engine and leave them hanging. You will also need to remove both of the valve cover gaskets in order to rotate your camshafts, insert your service bolt, and taking your camshafts out. When you are taking out your coil packs, make sure you set them in the correct order. So either set them in a specific order on how you took them out or write on pack which is which. You can also remove the spark plugs if you need to replace them. Be careful when you remove the valve covers since you may have some wires or connectors in the way.


Setting the Crankshaft Position:
This part can be confusing. This part is very important since you don't want to bend your valves if you set your crankshaft position incorrectly. Some people online will tell you to set it at the T marks on camshaft cap and others will tell you to set it at 50° ATDC. For me, I went 50° ATDC since I had the repair manual on me and I had the best experience with it. I had to move the cams around a lot and had no valve contact with the pistons. So you want to rotate your crankshaft is 0° TDC. Make sure that your crankshaft is lined up on 0 and your timing marks on the camshaft pulleys are on the I marks. Then afterwards, you want to set it at 50° ATDC. Next you can release the tension from the belt. Safely remove your belt and I recommend making some marks so you know where the cam pulleys and crank pulleys are suppose to be when we need to put these parts back on. You may be asking, where is 50° ATDC? Well there is a good photo on where your camshaft pulleys should line up. Credit goes for Landar on lexusowners.com for the photo. (This is on a 1uz VVT-I but the circle is at the same position, just not with a hole. Also the crankshaft pulley will be lined up to the center bolt of T/B idler pulley 2.)

Taking Out the Camshaft
Since you took off your timing belt, water pump, and idler pulleys out, now you will need to remove the camshaft pulleys. Before removing the camshaft pulleys or camshafts, make sure you put some markings on where your camshafts are lined up on camshafts and camshaft bearing caps. It'll make this job easier incase you mess something up or to make sure everything is lined up. When you remove your camshaft pulleys, I would have someone hold a 24mm wrench on the exhaust camshaft. You can hold yourself but I would recommend having a friend to hold it.
.
I would first work on the right head first (passenger side) of the engine first. You want to get a 24mm wrench and rotate the camshaft until you see two single dots touching each other.
(Like this)

Once these two single dots touch each other. Make sure you put your service bolt inside the whole in the exhaust camshaft. If you do not put this service put in, it'll take more time since you'll need to add tension to a spring inside the exhaust camshaft since the exhaust camshaft is split into two gears. Once you put the service bolt in, you want to remove the camshaft bearing caps. You'll need to go into a specific order to make sure you won't damage any parts of the head. Here is a link to the order the bearing caps should be removed incase you don't have the repair manual. https://lexusy.pl/LS430/rm/rm1049e/m_14_0081.pdf (THE LEFT HEAD HAS A DIFFERENT REMOVAL ORDER SO DON"T USE THIS LINK FOR THE LEFT HEAD!!!!)
Once you have the caps removed, you want to place them in the order you took them out of. They should have a number on each cap and where it goes. Before you remove the camshafts, you should mark your camshaft like this so you know where the camshafts should meet up when you put them back together!)

You can remove just the intake camshaft or remove both. When you remove the camshaft, don't pull on it too hard. Just lift it up and grab on to it, and slide it towards you. Afterwards, you can move the camshaft to a desk with a vice. You don't need a vice but I would recommend getting one so you don't accidently bend the camshaft. You want to place the camshaft on the vice where you would rotate it with the wrench. This will make it secure and will not bend the camshaft.


Replacing the Seal:
This part isn't too hard. You want to remove the big bolt in the center of the camshaft.

Sometimes it can be tight, so be ready to give it a bit of power. Not too much but some. (DO NOT LOOSEN THE FOUR BLACK HEX BOLTS OR YOU"LL NEED TO ORDER A NEW TIMING TUBE!!!!!!! THEY ARE NOT CHEAP AS WELL!!!!!!!) Once you remove the bolt, you can slide the timing tube out and slide the seal out. Get your new seal out and put it back in. I'm not sure if it is need but you can apply some MP grease on the seal if you want. Slide your timing tube back on and torque the bolt down. 58 ft-lb and 11 ft-lb for the washer and screw plug. This will be the same way for the other intake camshaft on the other side. Remove the camshaft from the vice if you are using one and get ready to put it back on.

Cleaning Some Parts (Optional):
Well since you have some parts out like the main camshaft bearing cap, timing belt covers, and engine covers. If you have oil seepage or they are just dirty in general, it may be a good idea to clean them. I cleaned these parts with diesel fuel to remove the gunk and used brake cleaner to remove any left over gunk or oil.

Inserting the Camshaft Back to the Head:
Now you want put your camshaft back on for the right head of the engine. It should be how you took it out but the opposite directions. If you took both camshafts out, put your exhaust camshaft first, then your intake. Once your camshafts are in and lined up, stop there for a bit.. You'll see a small filter with oil on it, you should replace it since Toyota says it is a non reusable part. They don't cost much either. There is also a camshaft housing plug to remove. It'll be underneath where the exhaust camshaft is located. You want to remove this and remove any of the old FIPG off of it. Once you removed the FIPG, apply new FIPG. (This will tell you where it should be applied incase you are confused. https://lexusy.pl/LS430/rm/rm1049e/m_14_0081.pd) Once applied, insert the plug back in and you should be good. Also you'll need to apply FIPG on the main camshaft bearing cap. (This will also tell you where to apply it as well. https://lexusy.pl/LS430/rm/rm1049e/m_14_0081.pd) (ALSO, make sure you replace four O-Rings for the main camshaft bearing cap! These O-Rings will go onto four bolts for the main camshaft cap!) Once applied, insert in and torque the bolts according the book. Once you see your camshafts are still in the correct position, you are done with that side for now. (ALSO, make sure you replace four O-Rings for the main camshaft bearing cap!)

Doing the Other Camshaft:
Doing this one is almost exactly the same. This time though, you will need double dots touching each other. I unfortunately didn't take a photo of that side of the head but it'll be TWO dots on each side touching each other. So you'll need your 24mm wrench and you'll need to rotate the camshafts quite a bit. When you rotate the camshafts, make you rotate on the exhaust part of the camshaft. I won't go into detail on this one since after the dots are lined up, it is the same procedure, so make sure to insert that service bolt!!! (Here is the link to loosen and to torque the camshaft bearing caps on the left head. I don't know who uploaded this, so I apologize for not giving credit on this post. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...-out-em-37.pdf) Replacing the seal, applying the FIPG, and the replacing the filter will be exactly the same.

Moving the Camshaft Back to Position:
Remember those service bolts, you can now remove them and rotate the camshafts back to 50°. Make sure you rotate the camshafts on the exhaust part of it and use the 24mm wrench. If you made marks on where the camshafts should line up at 50°, you'll be fine and it'll take less time too. Do this on both sides and you'll be ready to move on to the next part.

Replacing the Crankshaft Seal:
This part is very easy. If you have your crankshaft pulley out and the sprocket out, you'll see a rubber seal. You can use a flat head screwdriver and play around with it to remove it. I would make sure to tape the end of the screw driver so you won't damage any of the metal. Once you removed the rubber seal, insert the new one and you might need to get a small rubber mallet to push the seal in. It'll take a bit of time, but not too much. Insert the camshaft sprocket back on as well.

Installing the New Timing Belt and Water Pump:
Like I said earlier, I won't be too detailed on it too much. I would also double check on the torque specs just to be sure. The torque specs I have listed here are from my book, so they should be correct. Once you torqued everything and replaced what needed to be replaced, we can go onto to putting on the camshaft pulleys back on. You'll either need to hold on to the camshaft with your wrench or let someone hold it for you while you torque the camshaft pulley back on. It should be 66 in-lb for all four screws. Do the same on the other side as well. Next, you want to install your new water pump. Scrape off any dirt or debris in the way. Place your new water pump in and torque it down to 13 ft-lb. Next, you want to install your idler pulleys for your timing belt. Make sure to insert the metal washer in the back of idler pulley number 1. Both idler pulleys are 25 ft-lb. Then you insert the new timing belt on to the engine. Make sure that the arrows of the belt are facing you and are at the right camshafts. Place the belt on the timing marks on camshaft pulley and on the dot on the bottom of the camshaft sprocket. Once everything is in line, bolt on your timing belt tensioner. It should be at 19 ft-lb. Release the tension from the belt and rotate the engine at least two times to make sure nothing is coming into contact. If it rotates smoothly and there isn't any resistance, we can move on to the next part. Reconnect your AC and Alternator to the engine as well and plug the connectors to them.


Installing the Valve Covers Back On:
I won't get into too much detail here either but make sure to remove the old gaskets and the old spark plug gasket too. I would also recommending cleaning the valve covers too so they look nice and won't have gunk on it. Once you are done cleaning and replaced the seals, place your valve covers back on. Be careful not to pinch any wires or damage any sensors. Once you have your valve covers in place, tighten them in specific order.. I don't have the torque sequence order on my PC but the torque specs would be at 53 in-lb. Install your spark plugs and torque them to 13 ft-lb. Install your coil packs and hook them up.

Reassemble:
Now you can start connecting your sensors back on. Reinstall your harmonic balancer, crankshaft pulley, front engine covers for the timing belt and afterwards, you can hook up your radiator back on. Once you have those back on, you'll need to add some coolant since you lost some during this job. You might want to do a coolant flush if you haven't had already. So make sure to have some distillated with you as well. Then install your idler pulleys and install your serpentine belt. Make sure to hook up your battery as well if you disconnected it!


The Moment of Truth:
Once you have everything reassembled, it is time to start up the motor. When I did this, I was nervous but my started up fine and sounded amazing. So when you start it up and did everything correctly, your motor should start just fine. You'll be very satisfied on the work you did and you'll be very happy.

Coolant Flush (Optional):
You might want to flush your coolant since it might be time to do again. So you want drain all the old coolant out and pour in distilled water into the radiator. Turn the car on and leave it running for a bit. Turn the heat all the way up and put the fans on full. Leave the car running for 10-15 min. Then leave it to cool for a bit and flush the water out. You might need to repeat those steps a few times until the water comes out nice and clear. Once the water is clear, add in new coolant and check for leaks. Check your coolant time to time for a few weeks in case it needs more.

I hope this thread helped out many people on replacing the seals for the camshafts. Like I said earlier, it wasn't the easiest job, but I did learn a lot from it as well. If you have any questions, ask me and I'll try my best to respond the best to my ability. Thank you and have a great day! This is my first time I posted on this forum as well haha.

I also want to give a big thanks dveneman on the LS400 section on the forums, he really helped me do this job on my LS. Here is his post incase you want to look at it or might want more pictures on how to do this job. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...l-refresh.html
I also want to give a thanks to cartunenz on YouTube as well.

TwentyMax

Hey everyone, I just wanted to get a one year update after I did this job. The car currently has 211k miles and has been solid and strong. I haven't had anything issues related with the job besides needing to replace the radiator back in March due to it being very old. I should of replaced it back when I did but its whatever. I can still respond to any questions although it has been a bit, so I might miss a detail or two. That is all I really have to say. It has been a good car to me and hasn't caused me any major issues.

-Max

LS400FAN

Hey Max, thanks for the write-up, nice job and much appreciated. Do you recall when you removed the cam seals, were they in fact the cause of your oil leak and were you able to trace the leak to those seals? Did the seals look worn, hardened, weak or brittle? Do recall the condition of the front crank seal? The reason I ask is because I definitely wouldn't want to get to that point unless I absolutely had to. I much prefer the easy stuff like valve cover and front crank seals:-) But if and when it comes to that point, I'm certainly not shy about rolling up my sleeves and getting it done. My newly acquired 01 LS430 166K miles is safe and solid for now although my 98 LS400 may be due, its pretty much the same procedure as the 430, I'll definitely examine them thoroughly with the next tb change at 400k (365k currently) on the LS400. Thanks again good buddy.
Cheers!

TwentyMax

Good morning LS400FAN,

If I remember correctly, the camseals were leaking a bit. The camshaft timing tube had some seepage and so did the valve covers. If I remember correctly as well, the seals were not in too bad in condition, but was worn down and brittle for sure. The front crankshaft seal was not leaking at the time but I did replace it during that job. After that job though, it has not leaked a drop of oil since. It is not a bad idea though to check the valve covers or the front crankshaft seal since those can be replaced somewhat easy compared to the camseals. If your camshaft timing tube is leaking by the way, there is a small o-ring inside of the tube but it is not serviceable. They recommend on replacing the whole unit, which is a little pricey if I remember right. That is cool that your LS400 is at 365k miles though. I hope it has been doing great and your new LS430 should hold up just as well too. Good Luck and if you need to ask any more questions, go right ahead.

-Max

LS400FAN

Hey Max
thanks for the follow up, I'm sure I'll be following your lead if and when I get to that point. How would I know if the camshaft tube is leaking? Would oil be leaking from it in the tb housing? If its not leaking, wouldn't be wise to replace them anyway? If they're sealed with an o ring, its just a matter of time before they need replacement, right? Thanks again.
Cheers.

TwentyMax

Good evenign LS400Fan,

You will know if the timing tube is leaking if you open up the top cover for the timing belt and you have to look behind the camshaft timing belt pulley. If there is moisture or oil around that area, it is leaking because the tube is leaking. If it is leaking around the head on the camshaft, that most likely the camshaft seal. If your timing tubes are leaking, I would recommend using partsouq.com to source the timing tubes. They have OEM parts and are cheaper to source. If you have to do camshaft seals, you have to take the camshaft out and timing tube like I said in the post. So it would not be a bad idea to replace either way. Shoot me anymore questions if you have any left.

-Max

richelieu

Hello,
I am looking for advise because I am fully confused about cams backside "dot" alignment.

Basic situation telemetry:
- LS430 2001
- 155K on the clock
- valve cover leak
- cams seal leaks
- service workshop manual for models 2004 and recent includes the files referred in this thread

Confused status:
- here is this thread there is reference about cams timing on RH and LH sides with the dots
- The RH should be with single dots where both sprouts are touching and double dots aligned in single line
- The LH should be with double dots where sprouts are touching and single dots in edges with single line
- when I tried to remove valve covers bolts then 2 on RH and 3 on LH snapped because some crazy person tight it up to scratch
- the most important part - in my case on both LH and RH banks I have single dots on cams main gears where they are touching and double dots on edges, both side aligned in line

How the engine could work if the cams main gears timing is like this but in workshop manual is different?

I am very scared to proceed with cams removal.

Thank you for advise.
marek

This is RH

This is LH

weldthedif

i would recommend this video. Timmy the toolman is highly regarded as very accurate and a good resource for info

TwentyMax

Hello Marek,

It is interesting to see an LS owner from Czech. I am from Poland myself. Just a couple quick questions for you.
1. Are you removing just the intake camshaft or both intake and exhaust for both sides?
2. Do you have the service bolt for both sides on the exhaust camshaft?
3. Is your timing on the correct spot? It should be 50 degree ATDC (After Top Dead Center) I found when it was 50 degrees, I was able to rotate the camshaft without any issues or interference.

If you are just replacing the cam seals, you do not need to remove the exhaust camshaft. I did not remove the exhaust camshaft when I did my seals and I have not had a problem with it.
Also, once you set your timing correctly and line the dots up appropriately for each side, I would recommend using a paint pen to line up the dots touching each other. It will help you out once you need to reassemble. You can also take pictures before you remove it.

Let me know if you have any other questions

-Max

richelieu

Hello / Witam Max,
You're from Poland and moved to US (based on your profie to Wisconsin)? Amazing...

Let me share my situation:
- both Cams timing are aligned RH to dot and line, the LH dot and dot
- Crank the cut teeth is with dot (e.g. 2:00 hour) and CR dot below on 6 o'clock
- Yes, I need to replace the CAMs seals and my plan is to remove only intake camshafts => here it is recommended to use service bolt on exhaust cams
- I was fighting with 5 snapped bolts on both valve covers because some stupid guy tight it all in crazy torch
- Now I am ready to move forward to remove timing belt
- From timing position level I saw in workshop manual to set cams timing properly, remove the belt and move crankshaft cut teeth to approx 45-50 degrees BTDC. What is correct? What is best option and approach?
- what about my point with RH and LH cams rear gears and single dot vs double dot? The RH one has both single dot lined together where cams gears touching. The LH one has also single dots lined together where cams gears touching. On both sides I have double dots on the edges of cams gears not in center

I hope my explanation is clear.
Thank you
marek

bradland

See attached FSM pages 251 and 252.
LH side cams must be oriented with 2 dots on each cam facing each other.

richelieu

Hello @bradland ,
thank you.

The fact is that it isn't. There are only single dots facing to each other on LH and engine was working as a sharm...The previous owner let Bosch service to replace timing belt only 25K miles ago.

So interesting story. What to do? I suggest to keep it as it is - means just single dots facing each other on LH side...

What do you think?
marek

bradland

One of your LH cams is 180 degrees out. When you remove the intake cam to replace the seal re install it with the 2 dots in the correct orientation.
I'm just taking a stab here but it looks like someone has previously removed the cam and put it back in 180 out. If you've been driving this way you likely have a few bent valves.

TwentyMax

Hello Marek,

I relooked at your photos again and see what you are talking about with your LH. It should be double dots touching each other but I see only one double dot is douching and one single dot touching. Like what Bradland mentioned earlier, it looks like your camshaft is 180 degrees out. Did you have any engine issues before doing this job? Any weird noises? Whoever worked on this car before you did not do a good job on doing it. Let me know if you have anything else as I will try my best to answer with my memory.

Thanks again,
Max

richelieu

Guys,
i am pretty skilled DIY but to be honest I am very scared right now.

The previous life of the car wasn't easy and I doubt that really someone before did wrong with the car.

In brief points:
- I bought car in 2020 with 131K on the clock after Bosch service
- Before Bosch service I investigate that some village garage technician not knowing Japanies / US cars did timing and watter pump
- I don't have any information about cams repairs but someone must do something because valve cover bolts was very tight and I snapped 3 on left and 2 on right side...
- Engine was running perfectly without any issues and noices, no vibrations
- I decided to repeat timing change because some coolant leak and I have bad feelings because I was convinced that no OEM parts used (I have purchased all new OEM parts to replace what I can)
- last point - oil is leaking from valve cover and cams

Here is link to videos I did. First RH

Here is LH

Sorry for Czech language but picture more important than language The purpose of those videos was for assembly purposes not counting with cams timing issue.

Now I really need your leading here because it loooks like the LH needs full retiming of both cams - there is not single dot and double facing to each other but realy single to single. I will do better pictures of LH side.

Thank you.
Marek