Hello,

I’ve been attempting to do a full break bleed through techstream for awhile now, but read on a few forums here that often times the battery voltage drops too low during the test resulting in failures.

So, if anyone could recommend a battery charger to use during the break bleed that would be sufficient for my model car that would be perfect. As well as if there is a specific version of tech stream I should be using in case the one I have isn’t right.

Thanks in advance.

 

The NOCO chargers are solid!

check Amazon, they have I think 5 or 6 different sizes all suitable for 12v batteries. Thousands of 5 star reviews 👍🏼

I use mine periodically just for overall battery health and maintenance.

 

The Toyota dealer who performed brake bleed on mine, did using the Motive power bleeder kind of system. He stated that it would remove any fluid from the whole system as it circles through all the channels. You can possibly look into it

 

Some folks like a maintainer/Tender charger < 2 amps, it can be left plugged in when a car sits for weeks and months at a time. Personally, I like a variable intelligent charger that can charge from < 1 up to 8-10 amps. Either will keep up with fluid change needs with a currently charged and healthy battery.

 

So a trickle charger would be fine? I assumed a normal charger would be needed to keep the voltage at max during the techstream bleed. I’ve seen a few listings on Amazon, but not much mention of people keeping their car running with the charger plugged in. Just want to make sure. If you could link a few it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Ideally you need shop grade power cart, which got 'battery support' mode. Trickle charger isn't ok, abs pump draws hella current.

 

From my research on the tech stream bleed on this car it’s usually the battery falling below the needed voltage resulting in failure. Hence why I wanted to test getting a charger, I also didn’t think a trickle charger would work, but few people who replied earlier seemed to say so, so I wanted to make sure.

Im not sure what a shop grade / proper charger would run me, but this is the last ditch effort to get the car running, otherwise the only diagnosis I have is that actuator is faulty.

 

First time I did full bleed with ts out of shop (w/o the tender - that's what toyota calls it, battery tender) it went ok, but car failed to start afterwards. Since then I play it safe and use tender.

ADD: just did a quick google and some cheaper chargers got 'and maintainer' in their names. I bet this is as close as it gets out of pro space.

 

I suggest this, if your batter is in good shape: I got a Noco genus 10. I managed to revive a swollen frozen battery and I have been using the battery without another power issue for quite a while look for my thread about it, it can be had for about a 100. I occasionally use their odb charger and a ac battery pack to charge it from within the car just in case. The battery has not drained thus far. I don’t drive everyday and when I do it not for long.

remove the battery charge it up or if you have a garage disconnect both terminals and use the alligator clamps and charge the battery.

you have a 400 or 460? The battery I use is Capacity: 95 Ah

CCA: 830 A

 

I actually recommended a 8-10 amp charger. I can see why my answer was misleading. Also, others recommend an even higher capacity charger, I agree with their suggestion as well. If you can find the fuses for the brake pump systems, that would tell you about how many amps it could pull.

 

I currently have one of the Powermax PM4 power supply/smart chargers (100amp) and it is ideal for reprogramming, procedures like brake bleeding, etc. I let my brother borrow it about a month ago and he "accidentally" took it with him when he moved across the country lol...so I have a Clore 20 AMP Charger, Maintainer, and Power Supply units on the way from Amazon. These are $105 and look like they'll work fairly well for these purposes - but I will let you know for sure next week.

There are quite a few sellers on both Amazon and eBay that convert server power supplies into various AC to DC power supplies, both adjustable current and fixed, but something like this would work also. These have become popular with the BMW communities for ECU programming.

This is the particular Powermax I had, but there are many different models:

PowerMax PM3-100 110V to 12V DV Power Supply Converter Charger for RV 100 Amp- Adjustable Power Supply|Three-Stage Converter| 11"x8.5"x4.2 |Power Converter RV Charger
https://a.co/d/1COOcXb

Clore Automotive 20 AMP Power Supply:
https://a.co/d/7AeLTMj

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I replaced brake fluid twice already with engine off and no battery charge support. The car started just fine. I have a fresh OEM battery, however, it was OK on the old non-OEM battery too. Stereo and HVAC should were off.

 

Well, just to add more choices for you, I use a CTEK 7002 and recommend it Just so you know, a trickle charger will not charge a depleted battery. The CTEK 7002 is a charger and also performs other functions.

 

Hey, I just got the time to look back at this post and I wanted to ask you if you had any luck on that Clore 20 AMP Charger. I'm still willing to try a full brake bleed with the charger plugged in to maintain the battery voltage. Also, if you have any experience in setting up the chargers for preforming brake bleeding procedures and such, it would be really helpful, thank you.

 

Apologies, I forgot to quote you in the post I had directed to you.