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Problem found!
Root cause: contamination by water intrusion (R boot and wiper seal both failed to keep water out of the rack innards).
The rack with the right side endcap removed - note the rust:
After removing the motor housing (hold the housing, lift the whole thing and smack it a few times hitting the end of the rack shaft on a piece of wood on the floor) - again, note the rust:
Beads of water are visible on the winding endcap, and corrosion on the com pads (or whatever they are called, it's a brushless motor):
And I was able to duplicate the "old-school roller skate wheel bearing" noise, because water got into the ball screw and corroded the ball bearings (rack is toast). I attached a video of the noise.
I ordered a new rack from Wesley Chapel Lexus, $2062 shipped. At least I found the issue and determined that it wasn't easily fixable. Hope this helps someone diagnose their noise! Now I have a new paranoia about the right side rack boot and wiper seal......
Good point! I just checked - the boot is light-tight and in mint condition, and both clamps were tight. I did notice corrosion on the machined lip that retains the boot. I'll add RTV to both ends of the boot just for extra safety when installing the new rack.
It looks like the wiper seal failed because the rack shaft got rusty and scored it.
I did find one rack in Kennedale TX, but the car was a front collision (possible rack damage) and they would not ship it. And they wanted $850, which with shipping gets me halfway there on a rack with more miles than my car has on it.
It's a relative unicorn part. Only used on the 2010-11 Sport up to 8/2011 production date. I looked for one that would interchange, but they changed the design a bunch of times and there are VGRS, non-VGRS and other versions that make things a bit murky. 2013-up is a different part number, too.
Looking back, I would not buy a Sport again. It's not worth the hassle, the parts are more expensive and harder to find, and the air suspension is less reliable than the standard coil/KYB setup.
I did find one rack in Kennedale TX, but the car was a front collision (possible rack damage) and they would not ship it. And they wanted $850, which with shipping gets me halfway there on a rack with more miles than my car has on it.
It's a relative unicorn part. Only used on the 2010-11 Sport up to 8/2011 production date. I looked for one that would interchange, but they changed the design a bunch of times and there are VGRS, non-VGRS and other versions that make things a bit murky. 2013-up is a different part number, too.
Looking back, I would not buy a Sport again. It's not worth the hassle, the parts are more expensive and harder to find, and the air suspension is less reliable than the standard coil/KYB setup.
I imagine the sport or upgraded versions of most manufacturers use unique parts all over the car. Your hindsight is good knowledge for me and everyone. Thanks.
YESSSS! I just finished installing the new rack. It came complete with full tie rods, so I carefully measured the exposed threads on each side and duplicated the measurement on both sides of the new rack assembly. Then I bolted it in without disturbing the front tires, which were on ramps so they maintained the same angle. The car tracks perfectly straight, the steering wheel is perfectly centered, and the rack is noiseless and has zero play over center. I'm very happy!
YESSSS! I just finished installing the new rack. It came complete with full tie rods, so I carefully measured the exposed threads on each side and duplicated the measurement on both sides of the new rack assembly. Then I bolted it in without disturbing the front tires, which were on ramps so they maintained the same angle. The car tracks perfectly straight, the steering wheel is perfectly centered, and the rack is noiseless and has zero play over center. I'm very happy!
Can this be done in the driveway or is a lift needed? Do you need to remove the subframe to get the rack out? Also, how difficult is it to get to the steering shaft bolt? T
I drove the front up on rhino ramps and did it in the garage. It is surprisingly easy. You take the underbody shields off, and then the rack is held in with 2 bolts/nuts (and there is a plate those 2 bolts go through that has 2 more bolts into the crossmember). The steering shaft lock bolt is easily accessible from behind the front crossmember (I used a 3/8 ratchet and 12mm shallow socket on that). Then the 5 electrical connectors and wire harness clips and the tie rod ends need to be popped out of the steering knuckles (take the neat snap cotter pins out, unscrew the nuts, smack the tip of the tie rod end studs with a 2lb sledge and they will pop right out). The good part of the job is that there's no fluid to make a mess.
07-04-23 | 10:36 AM
