Time to pay the piper
#16
#17
Pit Crew
I just put a set of these on my 2011 AWD and have been very impressed with them thus far. They are of course noisier than the Pirelli's they replaced, but if they perform the way they are reviewed to in the WA winters we have to contend with it'll be well worth the trade off. My hope is that these true "all-weather" tires will be sufficient enough I can run them year round instead of buying a new set of Blizzaks every few years.
Best of luck with the repairs OP. Let us know how everything turns out!
#18
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Quick update..... Car is up and running again. New valve cover seals/spark plugs, radiator, rear shocks, control arms, and or course alignment. The mechanic wound up swapping 6 out of the 8 control arms - the 2 big "black" control arms were in good shape and I figured they'll probably last longer than the aftermarket ones, anyway. Labor cost? 8 Benjamin Franklin bills . I had a brain fart and forgot to order new front rotors (had the typical symptoms - shaking/pulsing brake pedal/steering wheel), so I had to place another order from RockAuto. Swapped them yesterday and all is good!
The Mazda CX9 that broke down at the same time is another story - after replacing the alternator (and radiator - broke down during alternator replacement), there's another rather big problem - the transmission will only go to second gear (1-2) and won't upshift any further. Also, the Reverse is shot, too. We pulled the codes, but diagnosing it properly (and fixing it) might be cost prohibitive - list of possible culprits - dirty/low trans fluid, line pressure malfunction, solenoid valve malfunction, clutch/brake malfunction, ATX malfunction, control valve body malfunction, and last but not least TCM malfunction. I'll probably start searching for a used transmission (seem to be going for 700-1500) and swap it (~$500). When it rains, it pours.
The Mazda CX9 that broke down at the same time is another story - after replacing the alternator (and radiator - broke down during alternator replacement), there's another rather big problem - the transmission will only go to second gear (1-2) and won't upshift any further. Also, the Reverse is shot, too. We pulled the codes, but diagnosing it properly (and fixing it) might be cost prohibitive - list of possible culprits - dirty/low trans fluid, line pressure malfunction, solenoid valve malfunction, clutch/brake malfunction, ATX malfunction, control valve body malfunction, and last but not least TCM malfunction. I'll probably start searching for a used transmission (seem to be going for 700-1500) and swap it (~$500). When it rains, it pours.
The following 2 users liked this post by stasek:
Dave144239 (06-15-23),
Protholl (06-14-23)
#19
Here is the control arms I got from O'Reilly for the LS
https://imgur.com/a/2voeigS
You can see the rubber boot is already tearing. It's been only 4k miles and four months. In that 3k is across the interstate driving between Alabama and Texas and parts of Texas.
https://imgur.com/a/2voeigS
You can see the rubber boot is already tearing. It's been only 4k miles and four months. In that 3k is across the interstate driving between Alabama and Texas and parts of Texas.
#20
It was done by a shop, Drivers Way Pelham Alabama. No idea how they did it. The previous owner took there for service afailk. They used O Reilly control arms for upper, lower, front and back.
#21
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