Consumables & Common Failures, 2007 LS460
10-05-23, 09:38 AM
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Pit Crew
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Consumables & Common Failures, 2007 LS460
Over the last three years of ownership, I have, thanks to the many contributors here, learned a great deal about my (base) 2007 LS460. Again, my thanks. An acquaintance of mine, who also owns the same, has asked me a number of questions, similar to those often asked here. About the consumable items I prefer, about certain failure issues, and so forth. So I summarized for him in a document the major facts I have learned (again, mostly from these boards/threads). I thought it might be useful to post that document here, so that other owners can grasp an outline of that type of information quickly. I am sure that some here will have opinions and/or experiences other than what I have said in this document … and if so I encourage them to post them here as well, point to other threads and so forth. Once again, thank you all for sharing so much information that makes the LS460 ownership experience so robust and successful.
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Lexus LS460 Consumables: Here is a list of part numbers and sources that I have found to be the best replacements for common LS460 consumable items.
Gasoline: 87 vs. 91 Octane. The LS460 Owner's Manual says that more-expensive 91 octane is required. That is NOT true. You can use less-expensive 87 octane gas without any negative effect. The reason is because 91 octane slightly improves the official 'miles per gallon' (MPG) rating to satisfy the US Government's demands for ever-higher MPGs. I actually found a magazine article online where a Lexus engineer straight-up said so. The engine's computer has the built-in ability to adjust to whichever octane is being used. If you use 87 octane consistently, after a few hundred miles, the engine's computer will have 'tuned-in' to run the engine optimally at 87 octane. I've been running 87 for 2.5 years and no problem.
Battery. The main problem with car batteries is, again, the brutal Vegas summer heat. It quickly evaporates the liquid inside the battery and that kills it. I used to get 5-6 years out of a battery back on the East Coast. Here in Vegas it is very common for a car battery to die in as little as 2-3 years. I had one go totally dead here in just 18 months. Then there is another problem with car batteries. Over the last 15 years or so, a company called 'Johnson Controls' basically bought up almost every well-known battery brand name. Then they sold them all to another company and got out of the car battery business. The company that bought them all now make them all in Mexico and they make them very cheaply (to pay the bill for purchasing all those brand names, I guess). So they don't last very long. I used to use Interstate brand batteries, once almost the best you could buy at any price, but now they are made cheaply in Mexico just like all the others and they are sold cheaply at Costco as though they are still a 'premium' brand. Put the Vegas heat up against these cheaply-made batteries … and they die even quicker. There are a VERY FEW car battery brands that are still of good quality. They are all made by another company called Deka. Deka has been a USA family‑owned business for almost a century … and to protect the reputation of their family business they still make high quality batteries. The best place to get one is at O'Reilly Auto Parts; their house-brand, 'SuperStart,' is made by Deka. For the LS460 go to O'Reilly and get the SuperStart Extreme Group Size 27, Type PRMJ, 810 CCA Battery. This particular battery is a bit larger and has almost TWICE as much 'cranking-power' as most other batteries sold to fit in the LS460. It also has a full 2-year warranty; if the battery dies within 2 years, they just give you a brand-new one at no-charge. I know this is true because when that battery died on me in 18 months they just gave me a brand-new one free. Keep a copy of the sales receipt in your glove box; you have to prove when you bought it if you need it to be replaced under warranty. The O'Reilly staff will also install any battery you buy there, on-the-spot, no-charge. They will also check the health of your battery anytime, also no-charge. I stop by and have them check mine every six months or so and, if they say the battery is starting to go weak (and it is out-of-warranty), well I just buy a new one right then-and-there and have them install it. These SuperStart batteries are not anywhere near the cheapest you can buy -- you can get some kind/brand of battery at Costco or Walmart for around half what the SuperStart will cost you. But cheap car batteries, especially in Vegas, will just end up failing far more often, forcing you to buy new batteries more often anyway. With this SuperStart approach with the warranty and letting them check it for you every six months, you will greatly reduce your 'car battery drama and costs' especially here in Vegas.
Oil & Oil Filter. You can do a $30 drive-thru oil & filter change at a Quicky-Lube, but you are getting the absolute cheapest, lowest-quality oil & filter … so cheap that it may not even do a decent job of protecting your engine. There is a saying: "Quality oil is cheap but broken engines are expensive." So I prefer to buy my own oil and filter then pay my mechanic the 30 minutes of labor it takes for him to change them out for me. Officially the LS460 requires either 0w20 or 5w20 oil. These are very thin oils … and the brutal Vegas summer heat makes motor oil flow even thinner. These thin oils do not protect the wear and life of the engine anywhere near as well as thicker oils. The reason Lexus specifies this thin oil is because its lower friction slightly improves the official 'miles per gallon' (MPG) rating. The US Government puts great pressure on car makers to keep raising MPG ratings, so car makers do whatever they have to do to meet its expectations, including specifying these very thin oils. In every LS460 Owner's Manual EXCEPT the US Owner's Manual, it says that the owner may choose to use any mainstream oil weight that best suits the driving conditions. Accordingly I use a thicker oil, 5w30, to better protect the engine and to help extend its life. Over time, I have found the best motor oil you can buy (at a reasonable price) is Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum Full Synthetic Motor Oil. Not 'just' Platinum, you want ULTRA Platinum. It has borne out in both chemical analysis and performance testing to contain much higher levels of detergents and anti-wear agents, see YouTube videos at: https://rb.gy/ngf16 , https://rb.gy/0ij3h , https://rb.gy/rb37g . The LS460 engine requires 9.0-9.5 quarts of oil when you also change the filter. The easiest way to get this oil is to order it from Walmart online (it is NOT stocked in Walmart stores) or from Amazon. Two 5-quart bottles of 5w30 will cost about $60-$70 and that includes tax & shipping. And often there is a $20-$25 rebate coupon available at pennzoil.com/rewards bringing the total down to $45-$55 or so. Really this is not any more expensive than any other decent brand of quality oil … even though this is the best motor oil. When it comes to oil filters for the LS460, there are many types and brands available … and the quality and price of them varies quite a bit. You can buy a cheap, low-quality filter for as little as $5; even the filters the dealerships sell are very basic. I have found the best LS460 oil filter (at a reasonable price) to be the RoyalPurple 20-968 Extended Life (Synthetic) Oil Filter, about $18 from Walmart online. I've not found it on Amazon. You can buy it direct from RoyalPurple but it costs a bit more that way. If the plastic oil filter housing cap has been over-torqued during a prior oil change and so breaks when removed, it can be replaced by BeckArnley-DR1V 041-0011 Oil Filter Housing Cap, available from O'Reilly Auto Parts for about $50.
Tires. When I lived back East, I ran very expensive Michelin tires, they are IMHO the best tire brand. But I learned that in Vegas it doesn't take long to lose a tire due to all the nails, potholes and other road hazards. So I switched to Discount Tire's house-brand. For the base LS460 you use their Road Hugger GTZ 235/50 R18 101W XL BSW. Out the door price, including mounting, balancing and taxes one such tire is under $150. That is pretty inexpensive for a very good tire. And it is a very good tire; Road Huggers are made for Discount Tire by Kumho, a premier Korean tire manufacturer. They ride pretty durn comfortably. Again, Michelins are THE best tire brand, but they will cost almost three times as much. And if you pay Discount Tire an extra $25 they will 'insure' your tire. Then if you take a nail or whatever and ruin the tire, they will replace it for free. Plus the service is fast and excellent at Discount Tire units, just about the best tire shop I've ever dealt with over my lifetime.
Spark Plugs. The LS460 OEM spark plugs are manufactured by Denso and are iridium-tipped for long life. They are of excellent quality. The Owner's Manual recommends that you change them out every 60,000 miles but they are well known to easily last up to 100,000 miles. When you replace them, do NOT replace them with the OEM Denso spark plugs (#3473, FK20HBR11). Because in 2015 Denso IMPROVED its iridium technology and so they have a BETTER spark plug for you to use in the LS460. And the new spark plug is half the price of the older OEM spark plug. The dealership will try to sell you the old spark plug because that is what is specified to the vehicle, plus it is more expensive and has more profit built into it. You should use the newer Denso 4705 IKBH20TT Iridium TT Spark Plugs. Being an V8, the vehicle takes eight of them. Do NOT buy them on Amazon or eBay or the like, as those places are flooded with cheap counterfeit Denso spark plugs. Instead buy them at Advance Auto Parts as they are an official US partner for distributing Denso spark plugs, so you will know what you get is authentic. They cost about $10 each at Advance. Plus when I bought them a gift-card rebate kicked out with the sales receipt that totaled $24, so the final cost for the eight plugs was only $56 or about $7 each. Replacement of the eight spark plugs is about 2.5 hours of mechanic labor. When you replace the spark plugs, you should also replace the rubber spark plug seals, as there is no additional labor; when you pull out a spark plug you can also just pull out the rubber seal. You should do this because, again, with age, the rubber dries out and cracks. And the brutal Vegas summer heat is especially damaging of rubber items in vehicles. The Lexus part number for the seals is 11193-38020 Rubber Spark Plug Seal-Gasket. Again, you need eight of them. I bought them from MyLParts.Com (which is the Lexus dealership in Rosedale, California that has excellent prices on all OEM Lexus parts) using their 'CL5' discount code that offers a 10% discount to the Club Lexus community. The eight seals shipped for a total of only $33. The mechanic might think you have to 'pull the engine heads' to swap out these seals … and that would make for a LOT more work. But you do NOT have to pull the heads, you can just carefully pry the old seals loose with a screwdriver. There is a YouTube video showing how to do it at https://rb.gy/bd14i … Look at about 4:15 in the video to see the seal removal being done this easy way.
Serpentine/Drive Belt. This is a rubber belt at the front of the engine that draws power from the engine and delivers it to various items such as the alternator, power steering, air conditioning, water pump, etc. With age, the rubber dries out and cracks. And the brutal Vegas summer heat is especially damaging of rubber items in vehicles. If the belt breaks entirely, you really cannot drive the car at all until it is replaced. It only takes a mechanic about 15-20 minutes to install a new one. So I say replace it every several years. Or at least keep a spare belt in the trunk just in case. I found the best to be the Bando 6PK2100 Serpentine Belt, stocked at Advance Auto Parts for about $32. The price is about the same no matter which brand you buy.
Brake Pads. Akebono makes the best brake pads. Akebono pads are quiet and they last forever. And they don't cost much more than any other good brand of brake pad … but they are a bit harder to find. Akebono makes the OEM brake pads that come on new Lexus and Toyota vehicles. (But you can't actually buy them at the dealership's parts department; instead the dealership will usually sell you 'economy' replacement pads that cost them less and make them more profit.) My prior vehicle was a Toyota Avalon; I owned it for 15 years and I kept Akebono brakes on it as well and that worked out fine all those years. For the LS460 front you need a pair of Akebono ProACT ACT1282 Ceramic Pads; for the LS460 rear you need a pair of Akebono ProACT ACT1283 Ceramic Pads. Almost no one stocks Akebono-branded brake pads on retail shelves; my guess is because the profit margin on cheaper, lower-quality brake pads is much better. So you'll have to search around a bit online to find them. Last time I bought them, PepBoys online had them on sale. A website called PlaceForBrakes.com almost always has them in stock. The pads run about $40-$50 per pair. Like the oil, I just pay my mechanic to install them; it's about a hour of mechanic labor to install (just) pads on all four wheels. Again, most shops like Goodyear or Purrfect Tire or whoever will sell you a slightly less expensive brake job, but you will also get some very cheap brake pads that won’t last nearly as long, that may squeal a lot, spew a lot of dust on your rims, and so forth.
Rotors. Rotors are the metal discs that the brake pads "grip/grab" to stop the vehicle. If the brake pads are completely worn out, the brake rotors should also be replaced. Fully worn pads usually destroy the smooth surface on the rotors so then the grip on the rotor is poor and/or noisy. There was a time you would pay a shop to 'resurface' a worn rotor so you could keep using it. That was when rotors were much more expensive. But these days you can buy a decent brand-new rotor for about what a resurfacing job would cost. So a lot of savvy drivers often just replace the rotors and the brake pads at the same time. Add an hour of mechanic labor (beyond that of the hour for the pads) for replacing the rotors. I find that Centric-brand rotors are reasonably priced and of very high quality. For the front of the LS460 (without the Touring package) you need a pair of Centric 121.44148 C-Tek Standard Vented Front Brake Rotors. For the rear of the LS460 (without the Touring package) you need a pair of Centric 121.44149 C-Tek Standard Vented Rear Brake Rotors. I found the best price at CARiD.com. With shipping & tax, they come to about $100 per pair. You likely won't pay any less for any brand of rotor anywhere else.
Wiper Blades. The OEM wiper blades (that clip onto the motorized wiper bayonet/arm) have replaceable rubber inserts. You can purchase just an insert or purchase a wiper assembly (that is a blade + a pre-installed insert):
85222-50080 24" LH/Drivers Wiper Assembly. $20.73, before tax and shipping.
85212-42120 17" RH/Passenger Wiper Assembly. $20.73, before tax and shipping.
85214-30380 24" LH/Drivers Replacement Rubber Wiper Insert. $8.09, before tax and shipping.
85214-42050 17" RH/Passenger Replacement Rubber Wiper Insert. $7.61, before tax and shipping.
The prices quoted are from MyLParts.Com (which is the Lexus dealership in Rosedale, California that has excellent prices on all OEM Lexus parts) using their 'CL5' discount code that offers a 10% discount to the Club Lexus community.
Some Club Lexus posters strongly advocate PIAA-brand silicone wipers as the best replacement (Amazon reviews are mixed so YMMV as well). My experience with the original developers of silicone wiper technology, Silblade, is that, yes, a well-built silicone wiper will have amazing longevity, operate in near silence and effect rainwater stripping itself off the windshield. (The Silblade company was eventually sold and its new owner sells worthless junk under the brand name.)
That being said, I have since found that applying a light coat of NuFinish (the car polish that comes in the orange bottle) to the windshield about 4 times a year will accomplish virtually the same results. Nevertheless here is the information regarding PIAA silicone wipers for the LS460.
There are three styles of PIAA silicone wipers. The style that best matches to the LS460 is its newest style, the 'Aero Vogue.' It has an old-school skeleton style construction (to maximize contact) but it is plastic-shrouded so that looks as if it is of the OEM style of frameless construction. It does NOT require any kind of adapter; it will clip directly on the small 9x3 J-hook on the end of the LS460 wiper bayonet. And the Aero Vogue has replaceable inserts:
PIAA 96160 24" LH/Drivers Aero Vogue Wiper Assembly. About $40.00, before tax and shipping.
PIAA 96143 17" RH/Passenger Aero Vogue Wiper Assembly. About $30.00, before tax and shipping.
PIAA 94060 24" LH/Drivers Aero Vogue Replacement Silicone Wiper Insert. About $20.00, before tax and shipping.
PIAA 94043 17" RH/Passenger Aero Vogue Replacement Silicone Wiper Insert. About $16.00, before tax and shipping.
Pricing was taken from Amazon.
Unfortunately LS460 wipers do NOT have a winter-mode or any other way to 'flip the wipers out and off' of the windshield (and pointing into the air) in order to change out (or clean under) the wipers. The only option to get best access to the wipers is to power down the vehicle while the wipers are running so that they are stopped in the middle of a cycle while pointing at 12 o'clock … and lift them gently to work with them.
Brake Fluid Bleed/Change. The LS460 Maintenance Schedule calls for a brake fluid bleed/change every 36 months or 30,000 miles. Officially, bleeding/changing the brake fluid requires a specific number of steps involving the use of TechStream (Lexus/Toyota in-house service) software … and TWO techs … to correctly bleed the brake actuator & brake system … and to refill it all (with the fresh fluid) to the correct level … and the work is supposed to be done at a very specific temperature. Further, the TechStream software is required to 'calibrate' the linear valve offset. Accordingly, even though a lot of repair shops claim they can do the work correctly, I erred on the side of caution and just let the Lexus dealership, that does this work all the time, do it for about $175.
Transmission Drain-and-Fill. Lexus promotes the transmission fluid as a "lifetime" fluid. But that's actually nonsense; it wears out just like any other transmission fluid. Owner's Manuals in every other country but USA recommend that the transmission fluid be drained and-filled every 60,000 miles, that being the traditional norm. It appears the reason that Lexus calls it "lifetime" in the US is because Lexus cannot in the US legally require the service be done at the dealership in the US and Lexus believes independent shops will often damage the transmission while doing the service. If the LS460 has over 100,000 miles on the vehicle and the fluid has NOT ever been drained-and-filled, most experts agree that the fluid SHOULD BE LEFT AS IS, that at that point, a drain-and-fill will likely cause the transmission to FAIL. Nevertheless, some posters on ClubLexus.com claim to have done a first drain-and-fill at 150,000, even 175,000 miles, with no ill effect, attributing the success to the quality of the build of the transmission. However if it fails, a new transmission will surely cost around $6,000-$10,000.
Engine Air Filter. The LS460 requires TWO engine air filters. The OEM Toyota/Lexus filters will cost at least $40, the pair, even more at a dealership. So I just use less-expensive aftermarket charcoal-infused filters for this. From Amazon, epAuto GP677 Engine Air Filter. Quantity 2 will cost about $20. At $10 each I am more likely to replace a dirty one sooner anyway. Most people can install these by themselves, it takes about ten minutes. There are YouTube videos and instructions on ClubLexus.com that show how to do it.
Cabin/Interior Air Filter. This filter is positioned behind a plastic door at the back of the glove box. It filters the air that is brought into the cabin/interior from outside as well as the air that is re-circulating throughout the cabin/interior. The LS460 is very very picky about what cabin air filter is being used (see the "AUTO-75 Issue - Air Conditioning Resets Every StartUp" discussion further down below), so I use an OEM carbon-infused 87139-50100 Toyota/Lexus Cabin Air Filter. And when I replace it, I also replace the 88899-3A080 Denso White Cabin Air Filter Frame that holds the filter in place as it tends to warp with time from heat. I bought them from MyLParts.Com (which is the Lexus dealership in Rosedale, California that has excellent prices on all OEM Lexus parts) using their 'CL5' discount code that offers a 10% discount to the Club Lexus community for a total of about $40, including tax and shipping. NOTE: When attempting to install/remove the LS460 cabin air filter BE SURE that the vehicle is accessory-powered-up and that the Recirc/Fresh Air button is set to Recirc, else serious damage will likely occur when you try to manually lift the blend door to access the filter.
Low-Beam Headlight Bulbs. The low-beam headlight bulbs are of the 'Xenon/HID-Discharge' type. The specific type required for the LS460 is named 'D4S.' The Toyota Avalon I owned for fifteen years also had 'Xenon/HID-Discharge' type low-beams. So I learned about these very quickly a very long time ago. The brand-name replacement bulbs -- the replacement bulbs at the auto parts store -- the replacement bulbs they sell at the dealership … are all grossly overpriced at around at least $300 per pair! Twenty years ago, when Xenon/HID was new and rare technology that price might have been fair. Not any more. You can purchase highly-rated no-name brand Xenon/HID-Discharge bulbs on Amazon for $30 per pair and they work just fine. Currently I am running DMEX brand D4S bulbs I bought on Amazon: [ [url]https://rb.gy/36stu ]. Btw, you want the '6000K Cool White' version of these bulbs to get a 'true white' color … instead of a blue-ish or amber-orange color.
To change these out, you actually have to loosen or remove the black plastic liners on the inside of the front wheel-wells to get access to the bulb sockets, so I just let the mechanic do it.
High-Beam Headlights. The high-beam headlight bulbs are halogen. The specific type required for the LS460 is named '9005' or 'HB3.' The Toyota Avalon I owned for fifteen years also had similar halogen high-beams. At one time, I believed the best/brightest long-distance LS460 bulb to be the OSRAM 3700K 9005/HB3 Night Breaker Unlimited, however it is discontinued. Its replacement, the OSRAM 3200K 9005/HB3 Night Breaker Laser 150%, is now very far off from 'true white' at 3200K but instead quite yellow/amber. Those bulbs, btw, had to be ordered from PowerBulbs.com out of Europe and the cost was about $50/pair. So currently I am running the Sylvania 3675K 9005/HB3 SilverStar Ultra. OSRAM & Sylvania are the same company, OSRAM in Europe and Sylvania in the Americas, and it is suspected that this SilverStar Ultra bulb was built to be an American version of the OSRAM Night Breaker Unlimited. They are available at Advance Auto Parts & AutoZone for about $60/pair. The socket covers are difficult to reach without setting aside the washer-fluid filler opening on one side and the fuse block on the other side; see the Owner's Manual for photographs and instructions. The socket cover for these bulbs are right next to the socket covers for the front turn signal bulbs and it is difficult to tell the difference between them … but the actual sockets are, of course, different.
Fog Lights. The high-beam headlight bulbs are halogen. The specific type required for the LS460 is named '9006' or 'HB4.' The Toyota Avalon I owned for fifteen years took the very same bulb. I prefer to run the fog lamps as assisting Daytime Running Lamps, and in the traditional yellow. For this application I use the Nokya 7610 2500K 9006/HB4 55W Hyper Yellow bulb. They are available on Amazon or eBay for about $15-$20/pair.
Turn Signal Bulbs. For the front the brightest are 7440A Sylvania SilverStar bulbs. The total quantity is 2. Available at Auto Zone, $12/pair. The socket cover for these bulbs are right next to the socket covers for the high-beam bulbs and it is difficult to tell the difference between them … but the actual sockets are, of course, different. For the rear the brightest are, 921 Sylvania SilverStar bulbs. The total quantity is FOUR, TWO for each side. Available at O'Reilly Auto Parts, Also $12/pair. The sockets are easily accessible behind removable panels in the trunk; see the Owner's Manual for photographs and instructions.
Other Bulbs. I once posted on ClubLexus.com all the extreme details about every bulb in the LS460, to assist in swapping them out for LEDs. Post #11 at https://rb.gy/njrzd .
Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish. You can buy a 5-ounce jar of this at most auto stores … or a 10-ounce jar on Amazon … for about $7. Then you can use it to lightly rub-down yellowed/fogged headlights with a microfiber cloth … and remove the polish with a clean microfiber cloth … and the headlights will become almost entirely clear. No need for a $50-$100 headlight restoration kit or service to restore them. Also you can use it to occasionally lightly rub-down & wipe-out the inside of the rear stainless steel exhaust tips, again with clean microfiber cloths, to remove the carbon buildup that makes the exhaust tips turn dark.
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Lexus LS460 Known Common Failure Issues: Because the original LS460 was designed & first built so long ago, the most common failure issues of older LS460s are, at this point, quite well known.
Premature Control Arm Failures. Control arms are part of a vehicle's suspension system; they connect the front wheels to the frame and steering system. The LS460 has a total of eight control arms, four for each front wheel (left/drivers & right/passenger). Each wheel has an upper forward arm, a lower forward arm, an upper rearward arm and a lower rearward arm. 2007-2012 (RWD) LS460s are known to have frequent, premature cracking and failures of the bushings inside the control arms due to poor design. (The bushings are the supportive rubber gaskets that surround the holes at each end of the control arm through which the arm is mounted.) In my own LS460 all eight control arms were replaced by a prior owner at a Lexus dealership at 91k miles (using his purchased extended warranty). Yet when I acquired the vehicle at 117k miles one of those replaced control arms had failed and yet another was partially cracking and failing. One early symptom of control arm failure is a metallic rattling when the wheel crosses bumps, potholes, etc. Further degradation results in more serious rattling, poor steering & poor alignment. Replacement of all eight control arms at the dealership is a $4,000 repair, $2,400 parts (the Lexus OEM control arms running $275-$325 each) plus $1,600 labor. Better to have your own mechanic do the work. Quality aftermarket suppliers such as BeckArnley, Moog, Dorman and Mevotech provide aftermarket control arms in $90-$120 range. Sources for those suppliers include RockAuto, AutoAnything, PartsGeek, CARiD & CarParts.com. If only replacing a single control arm on a wheel allow 2 hours of mechanic labor; if replacing all four control arms on a wheel, allow about 3-4 hours of mechanic labor. Lexus greatly improved the LS460's control arm design during 2012 & 2013. So it is those newer, improve control arms that should be used for replacement. So, when searching for them online, use at least 2014 for the year of the LS460 to avoid being offered the older, poorly-designed control arms. Here is a list of the 2013+ improved (RWD) LS460 control arm part numbers:
48630-59125 Left Upper Forward Control Arm (replaces 48630-59085)
48630-59135 Left Upper Rearward Control Arm (replaces 48630-59095)
48640-59045 Left Lower Forward Control Arm (replaces 48640-59035, 48640-59015)
48640-50131 Left Lower Rearward Control Arm (replaces 48640-50130, 48640-50070, 48640-50110)
48610-59125 Right Upper Forward Control Arm (replaces 48610-59085)
48610-59135 Right Upper Rearward Control Arm (replaces 48610-59095)
48620-59055 Right Lower Forward Control Arm (replaces 48620-59035, 48620-59015)
48620-50131 Right Lower Rearward Control Arm (replaces 48620-50130, 48620-50070, 48620-50110)
Brake Actuator Assembly Failure/Check Brake System Warning Message. The brake actuator assembly converts the pressing of the vehicle's brake pedal into the appropriate hydraulic (i.e., brake fluid) pressure required to actually activate the vehicle's brakes. The LS460 brake actuator assembly is a rectangular silver metal box located in corner of the engine compartment closest to the steering wheel. The primary early symptom of brake actuator assembly failure is it making a loud creaking, clunking, squawking or knocking sound (that the driver can hear emanating from under the hood of the vehicle) when applying the brakes lightly and/or when pressing the brakes while the vehicle is stopped. Also the dashboard TFT display may message "Check Brake System. Stop the vehicle in a safe place immediately. Contact a dealer." (And/or similar messaging for the ABS or VSC systems.)
The first Service Bulletin on the matter [L-SB-0069-09 (2009-06-02)] suggests that, in some cases, residual air in the brake actuator & brake system alone could be the sole cause of this condition. And so bleeding/changing brake fluid from the actuator and brake system (as described earlier above) alone may do the trick. And some ClubLexus.com posters indeed reported the problem resolved with simply a brake fluid bleed/change (while others reported not). In my own case, a brake fluid bleed/change done at the dealership resulted in a major reduction of symptoms, but not their total eradication. I now only occasionally get a "Check Brake System" message, that when starting the vehicle on an incline. And it readily clears on a restart. And yes the brake fluid reservoir is full, perhaps even overfilled. Accordingly you may wish to do a brake fluid bleed/change first before replacing the brake actuator assembly. However note that if you end up doing a brake actuator assembly replacement anyway that will also require a subsequent ('TechStream replacing actuator') brake fluid bleed/flush … so with that path you end up paying for the bleed twice.
That being said, there has been a very long history of partial or full failures of the brake actuator assembly in the 2007-2017 LS460s, especially in the 2007-2012 model years. Reference Service Bulletins include:
L-SB-0069-09 (2009-06-02)
L-SB-0178-09 (2009-12-02)
L-SB-0016-016 (2016-04-13)
L-SB-0083-16 (2016-09-30)
L-SB-0047-19 (2019-12-13)
Also, in April 2016, Lexus extended the warranty on free brake actuator replacement so as to reach all the way back to the 2007 LS460 model year, no mileage constraint, via its Campaign ZLG … but that campaign has now basically expired.
The root cause appears to be that the internal O-rings surrounding the internal solenoid valves fail. Also some report finding the failed actuator assembly has clogged some of its many small internal fluid holes, perhaps from lack of adherence to the bleed maintenance schedule. The brake actuator is designed so it is impossible to even be reassembled at all, much less be serviced/refurbished.
The good news is that, if the brake actuator assembly fails, it typically fails partially and over a longer period of time before it reaches a state of full failure. As it progressively fails, the brake pedal will become ever-more 'squishier,' requiring greater and greater pressure to achieve actual braking. Even more encouraging, there are almost no posters on ClubLexus.com stating they experienced a full failure of all braking due to a brake actuator assembly failure. Several said braking was very difficult but still possible with sufficient force applied to the brake pedal.
At the dealership, the brake actuator assembly replacement service is going to run at least $2,300-$2,500 … full list for the brake actuator assembly plus some dealer markup ($1,300-$1,500) plus about 3-4 hours of labor plus the brake fluid consumed by the bleed/change.
Or you can take a DIY approach. Install the new brake actuator assembly, get the brake fluid as 'right as you can,' then immediately take the vehicle over to the dealership for the 'official' brake fluid bleed/change (at $175). There are posters on ClubLexus.com claiming they or their mechanic successfully and simply swapped out the brake actuator and bled the brakes manually without using TechStream, total 2.5 hours of labor … such as poster #53 at
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...e-c1391-4.html
Around 2014 or so, Lexus issued a new & improved brake actuator assembly. The improved part number 44050-50110 Brake Actuator Assembly replaces 44050-50170, 44050-50150, 44050-50110, 44050-50090, 44050-50130. Online, direct from some Lexus dealerships, the part currently quotes in the $950-$1100 range. (Btw, the original part number for my own 2007 LS460 is indeed 44050-50130 … and the original broadcast quotes a (2007) list price of $3,800!) Sometimes you will see part number 04003-45450 stated to be superseding/replacing 44050-50110 but that is NOT correct. 04003-45450 was the part number Campaign ZLG assigned to the cost of the 44050-50110 improved brake actuator PLUS the required brake fluid.
I located a single claim, in a YouTube video, that the new brake actuator must be VIN-coded/programmed to the vehicle: https://rb.gy/cd2ki . However I believe what the narrator actually means/believes is that TechStream must be used to properly install the brake actuator assembly … since I have not found any poster on ClubLexus.com saying anything about VIN-coding being required.
So, snag the improved part online for $950, you or your mechanic install it and do the brake fluid as best as can (perhaps even just recycling the brake fluid that had to be bled-out before uninstalling the old actuator), then immediately go to the dealership for the 'official' brake fluid bleed/change, about $175.
Or you may be able to locate an independent repair shop focused on Toyota/Lexus product that already pays to have its access to TechStream software.
Or you can buy a TechStream OBD cable for $20-$30, then download the TechStream software and purchase a TWO-DAY license to access its 'professional level' functionality for another $65.
To me, this $1,200-$1,300 DYI approach sounds a lot better than handing the dealership $2,500 or more for the same work.
Sticky/cracked/chalky dashboard, door panels & other interior panels, glove box, center console. Most common in the 2007 to 2012 year models. The plastic material used was faulty. At one time, Lexus actually replaced such failed panels for free under its Campaign ZLZ, but that has expired. 303 Aerospace Protectant can mitigate the chalkiness.
Failed 62414-50090 B-Pillar-Center Lower LH Garnish. Like the above this panel cracks open from repeated impact of the driver's seat belt clip. Again, the plastic material used was faulty. Replace it with the new/improved part number 62414-50170. At one time, Lexus actually replaced the garnish for free under warranty referencing Service Bulletin L-SB-0018-08, but that expired with the basic warranty.
Mark Levinson amplifier. For those LS460s with the upgraded Mark Levinson sound system, identified by the Mark Levinson branding on the front door speaker grilles, the amplifier tends to fail, taking out all sound from the radio, CD player and such. A new replacement amplifier is $2600. There are some electronic shops (that can be found online) that will repair the failed amplifier for about $700.
Air Suspension System. For those LS460s with the upgraded air suspension system (that supposedly provides an adjustable and smoother ride), the system tends to fail. Thousands of dollars to repair. Most owners instead source a far-less expensive 'conversion kit' specific to the LS460 to delete the air suspension system and replace it with a traditional shock & spring suspension system. They claim that the converted system rides almost just as smooth as it did under the air suspension system.
Transmission ECM Software Flash. If the LS460 seems to stall briefly, a hesitation, when suddenly demanding an increase in acceleration, there is an ECM software flash that can be applied by the dealership that will likely fix it. The related Service Bulletin is L-SB-0122-017. The Bulletin also suggests an expensive replacement of the cylinder head covers and all 32 intake and exhaust valves … but the truth of the matter is that the software flash can be applied without doing any of that. In my case, the ECM software flash alone from the dealership entirely solved the problem.
Rear Sunshade Fails to Extend/Retract Properly. This is actually a common problem with Lexus and Toyota vehicles of the time period; my prior vehicle, a 2006 Toyota Avalon, had the exact same problem. The root cause: There is a small white plastic gear in the sunshade motor (that motor being embedded inside the sunshade assembly) that fails and/or breaks with heat and age. There are about 3 hours of labor involved in removing the sunscreen and another 3 hours to re-install it. The dealership will not bother to replace the small plastic gear; rather they will insist on selling and installing a brand-new sunshade assembly. So, at the dealership, this is easily a $4,000-$5,000 repair. For a DIY repair, the small white plastic gear can be cheaply sourced on eBay, but disassembling and reassembling the motor to replace the gear is very tricky. And, either way, eventually the white plastic gear will eventually fail again. A long time ago, there was a individual who tinkered with gear fabrication selling a more durable metal version of the gear for $200 on eBay, but he has long since retired from doing so. So probably the best solution is to just get the sunshade retracted by helping it down by-hand, then just leave it alone and/or open the center console and unwire its switch.
AUTO-75 Issue: Air Conditioning Resets On Every StartUp. SYMPTOMS: At startup, the air conditioning system is not working or running … and it cannot be operated in any way. The center console AUTO air conditioning control lights up solid green and it cannot be turned off. The button for toggling between outside air and recirculated cabin air is NOT lit at all. There is no center console display of temperature selection for either the driver side or passenger side. Then, after about 30-60 seconds, the AUTO light cuts off and the NAV screen displays a message that "Air Conditioning is off." All prior air conditioning settings have been forgotten and instead the temperature selection defaults to 75° on both sides of cabin. At this point, the air conditioning controls can now be manually operated and set. If the vehicle is only shut-off for a very short period of time, the condition does NOT reoccur at next startup. However if the vehicle shut-off for a longer period of time, the condition does reoccur at next startup.
These symptoms are apparently (an undocumented) messaging to the driver that there a fault is being reported to the air conditioning ECM regarding one of the system's servo motors. A servo motor is a little black plastic box containing a small motor that opens or closes a damper/door that, in turn, allows or blocks the flow of air through a particular part of the system.
CAUSES & FIXES: This is actually a common issue across a variety of Lexus vehicles from around 2000-2015 or so. I've already found seven threads about it on ClubLexus.com specific to the 2007-2017 LS460.
It seems that the most frequent cause is that the plastic linkage between the 'air inlet servo motor' and the 'blend door' (aka 'Air Mix Damper') is not functioning correctly.
The blend door is behind the glove box compartment and where the cabin air filter sits. It swivels up and down, based on whether the center console button is set to recirculate cabin air or to allow-in outside air. When the 'blend door' swivels up, you can see the cabin air filter and the 'blend door' is blocking the entry of outside air from the outside vent above the cabin air filter … so that the air conditioning 'blower' below the cabin air filter is only recirculating cabin air (that it is drawing-in from the below the glove box). When the 'blend door' swivels down, it blocks the view of the cabin air filter and the 'blend door' is allowing the entry of outside air from the outside vent above the cabin air filter … so that outside air 'blends' with the cabin air that the air conditioning 'blower' is drawing-in from the below the glove box).
The blend door is operated by the 'Air Inlet Servo Motor' that is mounted out-of-sight just to the left of the glove box compartment. The glove box actually has to be uninstalled to see and access the Air Inlet Servo Motor.
In some cases this may simply mean that the cabin air filter has not been reinstalled and/or is not seated properly. And that is causing a partial or full blockage of the blend door operation's full range of movement. And the air conditioning ECU is interpreting the feedback regarding the lack of full range of movement from the Air Inlet Servo Motor as a servo motor fault. The cabin air filter assembly may not have been inserted fully until it snapped down into place, blocking the blend door from coming fully down. The white plastic frame that holds the cabin air filter may be warped from heat or age and is not fully restraining the cabin air filter in place. The cabin air filter may not be seated fully under the four notches in the white plastic frame. And so on.
I was once able to solve this problem, when the blend door was operating correctly, simply by purchasing and installing a new OEM Charcoal Cabin Air Filter [87139-50100] and a new OEM Denso Cabin Air Filter Frame [88899-3A080] from MyLParts.Com (which is the Lexus dealership in Rosedale, California that has excellent prices on all OEM Lexus parts) using their 'CL5' discount code that offers a 10% discount to the Club Lexus community. The total for both, before tax and shipping was only $36. (Just the OEM cabin air filter, btw, with the discount code, is about $19.50. That is by far the least expensive source I have found for the OEM filter.)
Another possible cause: There is a white plastic linkage between the servo motor and the blend door; when the servo motor turns its white plastic arm, that arm works the other white plastic arm to open and close the blend door. That linkage may have become 'un-linked' or broken by someone replacing the cabin air filter by forcing the blend door open when it was down. When replacing the cabin air filter, the vehicle must be in 'recirculated air' mode so that the blend door will be up and readily providing access to the cabin air filter. It is also possible that the linkage has become filled with dirt, crud or the other stuff that the cabin air filter is intended to catch, again preventing its full range of movement. Getting to the Air Inlet Servo Motor linkage requires at least an hour of labor to uninstall the entire glove box, after that maybe 2 minutes to relink the linkage and then another hour of labor to reinstall the glove box.
Photos & instructions as to how to relink the linkage, Post #29 at:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...or-broken.html
Photos & instructions as how to uninstall the glove box at:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...tment-diy.html
After those causes are excluded, then the likely cause is that any one of the other servo motors is generating the fault. There's a bunch of them throughout the front of the vehicle. Techstream software does identify such a fault to the specific servo motor … and it can also be used to test the full range of movement of all of the servo motors. In some cases the servo motor at-fault can be resolved by uninstalling it, snapping it open, cleaning it of all dirt and crud, lubing the gear, then reassembling and reinstalling it. Or its linkage may require the same type of cleaning. Or the servo motor may have outright failed and so has to be replaced entirely. Luckily there are videos about all that posted by a ClubLexus.com member on YouTube at youtu.be/CdQUBCtGvG4 and youtu.be/_kpqncZ0Ufw .
If the battery is disconnected, that may also cause a servo motor fault. The interruption in power may cause the ECU to 'forget' the actual/true position of the gear & linkage. In the same way a battery disconnect will sometimes cause a window or sunroof to forget its position and so not fully open or close as it should. When the linkage (or window or sunroof) cannot report a full range of movement (according to what/where the ECU 'thinks' that range is supposed to be), it reports a fault. In this case TechStream will have to be used to 'initialize' the servo motor, to find the correct positioning of the full range of movement. A new servo motor (or a cleaned servo motor) will also require that it be 'initialized' using TechStream.
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Lexus LS460 Consumables: Here is a list of part numbers and sources that I have found to be the best replacements for common LS460 consumable items.
Gasoline: 87 vs. 91 Octane. The LS460 Owner's Manual says that more-expensive 91 octane is required. That is NOT true. You can use less-expensive 87 octane gas without any negative effect. The reason is because 91 octane slightly improves the official 'miles per gallon' (MPG) rating to satisfy the US Government's demands for ever-higher MPGs. I actually found a magazine article online where a Lexus engineer straight-up said so. The engine's computer has the built-in ability to adjust to whichever octane is being used. If you use 87 octane consistently, after a few hundred miles, the engine's computer will have 'tuned-in' to run the engine optimally at 87 octane. I've been running 87 for 2.5 years and no problem.
Battery. The main problem with car batteries is, again, the brutal Vegas summer heat. It quickly evaporates the liquid inside the battery and that kills it. I used to get 5-6 years out of a battery back on the East Coast. Here in Vegas it is very common for a car battery to die in as little as 2-3 years. I had one go totally dead here in just 18 months. Then there is another problem with car batteries. Over the last 15 years or so, a company called 'Johnson Controls' basically bought up almost every well-known battery brand name. Then they sold them all to another company and got out of the car battery business. The company that bought them all now make them all in Mexico and they make them very cheaply (to pay the bill for purchasing all those brand names, I guess). So they don't last very long. I used to use Interstate brand batteries, once almost the best you could buy at any price, but now they are made cheaply in Mexico just like all the others and they are sold cheaply at Costco as though they are still a 'premium' brand. Put the Vegas heat up against these cheaply-made batteries … and they die even quicker. There are a VERY FEW car battery brands that are still of good quality. They are all made by another company called Deka. Deka has been a USA family‑owned business for almost a century … and to protect the reputation of their family business they still make high quality batteries. The best place to get one is at O'Reilly Auto Parts; their house-brand, 'SuperStart,' is made by Deka. For the LS460 go to O'Reilly and get the SuperStart Extreme Group Size 27, Type PRMJ, 810 CCA Battery. This particular battery is a bit larger and has almost TWICE as much 'cranking-power' as most other batteries sold to fit in the LS460. It also has a full 2-year warranty; if the battery dies within 2 years, they just give you a brand-new one at no-charge. I know this is true because when that battery died on me in 18 months they just gave me a brand-new one free. Keep a copy of the sales receipt in your glove box; you have to prove when you bought it if you need it to be replaced under warranty. The O'Reilly staff will also install any battery you buy there, on-the-spot, no-charge. They will also check the health of your battery anytime, also no-charge. I stop by and have them check mine every six months or so and, if they say the battery is starting to go weak (and it is out-of-warranty), well I just buy a new one right then-and-there and have them install it. These SuperStart batteries are not anywhere near the cheapest you can buy -- you can get some kind/brand of battery at Costco or Walmart for around half what the SuperStart will cost you. But cheap car batteries, especially in Vegas, will just end up failing far more often, forcing you to buy new batteries more often anyway. With this SuperStart approach with the warranty and letting them check it for you every six months, you will greatly reduce your 'car battery drama and costs' especially here in Vegas.
Oil & Oil Filter. You can do a $30 drive-thru oil & filter change at a Quicky-Lube, but you are getting the absolute cheapest, lowest-quality oil & filter … so cheap that it may not even do a decent job of protecting your engine. There is a saying: "Quality oil is cheap but broken engines are expensive." So I prefer to buy my own oil and filter then pay my mechanic the 30 minutes of labor it takes for him to change them out for me. Officially the LS460 requires either 0w20 or 5w20 oil. These are very thin oils … and the brutal Vegas summer heat makes motor oil flow even thinner. These thin oils do not protect the wear and life of the engine anywhere near as well as thicker oils. The reason Lexus specifies this thin oil is because its lower friction slightly improves the official 'miles per gallon' (MPG) rating. The US Government puts great pressure on car makers to keep raising MPG ratings, so car makers do whatever they have to do to meet its expectations, including specifying these very thin oils. In every LS460 Owner's Manual EXCEPT the US Owner's Manual, it says that the owner may choose to use any mainstream oil weight that best suits the driving conditions. Accordingly I use a thicker oil, 5w30, to better protect the engine and to help extend its life. Over time, I have found the best motor oil you can buy (at a reasonable price) is Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum Full Synthetic Motor Oil. Not 'just' Platinum, you want ULTRA Platinum. It has borne out in both chemical analysis and performance testing to contain much higher levels of detergents and anti-wear agents, see YouTube videos at: https://rb.gy/ngf16 , https://rb.gy/0ij3h , https://rb.gy/rb37g . The LS460 engine requires 9.0-9.5 quarts of oil when you also change the filter. The easiest way to get this oil is to order it from Walmart online (it is NOT stocked in Walmart stores) or from Amazon. Two 5-quart bottles of 5w30 will cost about $60-$70 and that includes tax & shipping. And often there is a $20-$25 rebate coupon available at pennzoil.com/rewards bringing the total down to $45-$55 or so. Really this is not any more expensive than any other decent brand of quality oil … even though this is the best motor oil. When it comes to oil filters for the LS460, there are many types and brands available … and the quality and price of them varies quite a bit. You can buy a cheap, low-quality filter for as little as $5; even the filters the dealerships sell are very basic. I have found the best LS460 oil filter (at a reasonable price) to be the RoyalPurple 20-968 Extended Life (Synthetic) Oil Filter, about $18 from Walmart online. I've not found it on Amazon. You can buy it direct from RoyalPurple but it costs a bit more that way. If the plastic oil filter housing cap has been over-torqued during a prior oil change and so breaks when removed, it can be replaced by BeckArnley-DR1V 041-0011 Oil Filter Housing Cap, available from O'Reilly Auto Parts for about $50.
Tires. When I lived back East, I ran very expensive Michelin tires, they are IMHO the best tire brand. But I learned that in Vegas it doesn't take long to lose a tire due to all the nails, potholes and other road hazards. So I switched to Discount Tire's house-brand. For the base LS460 you use their Road Hugger GTZ 235/50 R18 101W XL BSW. Out the door price, including mounting, balancing and taxes one such tire is under $150. That is pretty inexpensive for a very good tire. And it is a very good tire; Road Huggers are made for Discount Tire by Kumho, a premier Korean tire manufacturer. They ride pretty durn comfortably. Again, Michelins are THE best tire brand, but they will cost almost three times as much. And if you pay Discount Tire an extra $25 they will 'insure' your tire. Then if you take a nail or whatever and ruin the tire, they will replace it for free. Plus the service is fast and excellent at Discount Tire units, just about the best tire shop I've ever dealt with over my lifetime.
Spark Plugs. The LS460 OEM spark plugs are manufactured by Denso and are iridium-tipped for long life. They are of excellent quality. The Owner's Manual recommends that you change them out every 60,000 miles but they are well known to easily last up to 100,000 miles. When you replace them, do NOT replace them with the OEM Denso spark plugs (#3473, FK20HBR11). Because in 2015 Denso IMPROVED its iridium technology and so they have a BETTER spark plug for you to use in the LS460. And the new spark plug is half the price of the older OEM spark plug. The dealership will try to sell you the old spark plug because that is what is specified to the vehicle, plus it is more expensive and has more profit built into it. You should use the newer Denso 4705 IKBH20TT Iridium TT Spark Plugs. Being an V8, the vehicle takes eight of them. Do NOT buy them on Amazon or eBay or the like, as those places are flooded with cheap counterfeit Denso spark plugs. Instead buy them at Advance Auto Parts as they are an official US partner for distributing Denso spark plugs, so you will know what you get is authentic. They cost about $10 each at Advance. Plus when I bought them a gift-card rebate kicked out with the sales receipt that totaled $24, so the final cost for the eight plugs was only $56 or about $7 each. Replacement of the eight spark plugs is about 2.5 hours of mechanic labor. When you replace the spark plugs, you should also replace the rubber spark plug seals, as there is no additional labor; when you pull out a spark plug you can also just pull out the rubber seal. You should do this because, again, with age, the rubber dries out and cracks. And the brutal Vegas summer heat is especially damaging of rubber items in vehicles. The Lexus part number for the seals is 11193-38020 Rubber Spark Plug Seal-Gasket. Again, you need eight of them. I bought them from MyLParts.Com (which is the Lexus dealership in Rosedale, California that has excellent prices on all OEM Lexus parts) using their 'CL5' discount code that offers a 10% discount to the Club Lexus community. The eight seals shipped for a total of only $33. The mechanic might think you have to 'pull the engine heads' to swap out these seals … and that would make for a LOT more work. But you do NOT have to pull the heads, you can just carefully pry the old seals loose with a screwdriver. There is a YouTube video showing how to do it at https://rb.gy/bd14i … Look at about 4:15 in the video to see the seal removal being done this easy way.
Serpentine/Drive Belt. This is a rubber belt at the front of the engine that draws power from the engine and delivers it to various items such as the alternator, power steering, air conditioning, water pump, etc. With age, the rubber dries out and cracks. And the brutal Vegas summer heat is especially damaging of rubber items in vehicles. If the belt breaks entirely, you really cannot drive the car at all until it is replaced. It only takes a mechanic about 15-20 minutes to install a new one. So I say replace it every several years. Or at least keep a spare belt in the trunk just in case. I found the best to be the Bando 6PK2100 Serpentine Belt, stocked at Advance Auto Parts for about $32. The price is about the same no matter which brand you buy.
Brake Pads. Akebono makes the best brake pads. Akebono pads are quiet and they last forever. And they don't cost much more than any other good brand of brake pad … but they are a bit harder to find. Akebono makes the OEM brake pads that come on new Lexus and Toyota vehicles. (But you can't actually buy them at the dealership's parts department; instead the dealership will usually sell you 'economy' replacement pads that cost them less and make them more profit.) My prior vehicle was a Toyota Avalon; I owned it for 15 years and I kept Akebono brakes on it as well and that worked out fine all those years. For the LS460 front you need a pair of Akebono ProACT ACT1282 Ceramic Pads; for the LS460 rear you need a pair of Akebono ProACT ACT1283 Ceramic Pads. Almost no one stocks Akebono-branded brake pads on retail shelves; my guess is because the profit margin on cheaper, lower-quality brake pads is much better. So you'll have to search around a bit online to find them. Last time I bought them, PepBoys online had them on sale. A website called PlaceForBrakes.com almost always has them in stock. The pads run about $40-$50 per pair. Like the oil, I just pay my mechanic to install them; it's about a hour of mechanic labor to install (just) pads on all four wheels. Again, most shops like Goodyear or Purrfect Tire or whoever will sell you a slightly less expensive brake job, but you will also get some very cheap brake pads that won’t last nearly as long, that may squeal a lot, spew a lot of dust on your rims, and so forth.
Rotors. Rotors are the metal discs that the brake pads "grip/grab" to stop the vehicle. If the brake pads are completely worn out, the brake rotors should also be replaced. Fully worn pads usually destroy the smooth surface on the rotors so then the grip on the rotor is poor and/or noisy. There was a time you would pay a shop to 'resurface' a worn rotor so you could keep using it. That was when rotors were much more expensive. But these days you can buy a decent brand-new rotor for about what a resurfacing job would cost. So a lot of savvy drivers often just replace the rotors and the brake pads at the same time. Add an hour of mechanic labor (beyond that of the hour for the pads) for replacing the rotors. I find that Centric-brand rotors are reasonably priced and of very high quality. For the front of the LS460 (without the Touring package) you need a pair of Centric 121.44148 C-Tek Standard Vented Front Brake Rotors. For the rear of the LS460 (without the Touring package) you need a pair of Centric 121.44149 C-Tek Standard Vented Rear Brake Rotors. I found the best price at CARiD.com. With shipping & tax, they come to about $100 per pair. You likely won't pay any less for any brand of rotor anywhere else.
Wiper Blades. The OEM wiper blades (that clip onto the motorized wiper bayonet/arm) have replaceable rubber inserts. You can purchase just an insert or purchase a wiper assembly (that is a blade + a pre-installed insert):
85222-50080 24" LH/Drivers Wiper Assembly. $20.73, before tax and shipping.
85212-42120 17" RH/Passenger Wiper Assembly. $20.73, before tax and shipping.
85214-30380 24" LH/Drivers Replacement Rubber Wiper Insert. $8.09, before tax and shipping.
85214-42050 17" RH/Passenger Replacement Rubber Wiper Insert. $7.61, before tax and shipping.
The prices quoted are from MyLParts.Com (which is the Lexus dealership in Rosedale, California that has excellent prices on all OEM Lexus parts) using their 'CL5' discount code that offers a 10% discount to the Club Lexus community.
Some Club Lexus posters strongly advocate PIAA-brand silicone wipers as the best replacement (Amazon reviews are mixed so YMMV as well). My experience with the original developers of silicone wiper technology, Silblade, is that, yes, a well-built silicone wiper will have amazing longevity, operate in near silence and effect rainwater stripping itself off the windshield. (The Silblade company was eventually sold and its new owner sells worthless junk under the brand name.)
That being said, I have since found that applying a light coat of NuFinish (the car polish that comes in the orange bottle) to the windshield about 4 times a year will accomplish virtually the same results. Nevertheless here is the information regarding PIAA silicone wipers for the LS460.
There are three styles of PIAA silicone wipers. The style that best matches to the LS460 is its newest style, the 'Aero Vogue.' It has an old-school skeleton style construction (to maximize contact) but it is plastic-shrouded so that looks as if it is of the OEM style of frameless construction. It does NOT require any kind of adapter; it will clip directly on the small 9x3 J-hook on the end of the LS460 wiper bayonet. And the Aero Vogue has replaceable inserts:
PIAA 96160 24" LH/Drivers Aero Vogue Wiper Assembly. About $40.00, before tax and shipping.
PIAA 96143 17" RH/Passenger Aero Vogue Wiper Assembly. About $30.00, before tax and shipping.
PIAA 94060 24" LH/Drivers Aero Vogue Replacement Silicone Wiper Insert. About $20.00, before tax and shipping.
PIAA 94043 17" RH/Passenger Aero Vogue Replacement Silicone Wiper Insert. About $16.00, before tax and shipping.
Pricing was taken from Amazon.
Unfortunately LS460 wipers do NOT have a winter-mode or any other way to 'flip the wipers out and off' of the windshield (and pointing into the air) in order to change out (or clean under) the wipers. The only option to get best access to the wipers is to power down the vehicle while the wipers are running so that they are stopped in the middle of a cycle while pointing at 12 o'clock … and lift them gently to work with them.
Brake Fluid Bleed/Change. The LS460 Maintenance Schedule calls for a brake fluid bleed/change every 36 months or 30,000 miles. Officially, bleeding/changing the brake fluid requires a specific number of steps involving the use of TechStream (Lexus/Toyota in-house service) software … and TWO techs … to correctly bleed the brake actuator & brake system … and to refill it all (with the fresh fluid) to the correct level … and the work is supposed to be done at a very specific temperature. Further, the TechStream software is required to 'calibrate' the linear valve offset. Accordingly, even though a lot of repair shops claim they can do the work correctly, I erred on the side of caution and just let the Lexus dealership, that does this work all the time, do it for about $175.
Transmission Drain-and-Fill. Lexus promotes the transmission fluid as a "lifetime" fluid. But that's actually nonsense; it wears out just like any other transmission fluid. Owner's Manuals in every other country but USA recommend that the transmission fluid be drained and-filled every 60,000 miles, that being the traditional norm. It appears the reason that Lexus calls it "lifetime" in the US is because Lexus cannot in the US legally require the service be done at the dealership in the US and Lexus believes independent shops will often damage the transmission while doing the service. If the LS460 has over 100,000 miles on the vehicle and the fluid has NOT ever been drained-and-filled, most experts agree that the fluid SHOULD BE LEFT AS IS, that at that point, a drain-and-fill will likely cause the transmission to FAIL. Nevertheless, some posters on ClubLexus.com claim to have done a first drain-and-fill at 150,000, even 175,000 miles, with no ill effect, attributing the success to the quality of the build of the transmission. However if it fails, a new transmission will surely cost around $6,000-$10,000.
Engine Air Filter. The LS460 requires TWO engine air filters. The OEM Toyota/Lexus filters will cost at least $40, the pair, even more at a dealership. So I just use less-expensive aftermarket charcoal-infused filters for this. From Amazon, epAuto GP677 Engine Air Filter. Quantity 2 will cost about $20. At $10 each I am more likely to replace a dirty one sooner anyway. Most people can install these by themselves, it takes about ten minutes. There are YouTube videos and instructions on ClubLexus.com that show how to do it.
Cabin/Interior Air Filter. This filter is positioned behind a plastic door at the back of the glove box. It filters the air that is brought into the cabin/interior from outside as well as the air that is re-circulating throughout the cabin/interior. The LS460 is very very picky about what cabin air filter is being used (see the "AUTO-75 Issue - Air Conditioning Resets Every StartUp" discussion further down below), so I use an OEM carbon-infused 87139-50100 Toyota/Lexus Cabin Air Filter. And when I replace it, I also replace the 88899-3A080 Denso White Cabin Air Filter Frame that holds the filter in place as it tends to warp with time from heat. I bought them from MyLParts.Com (which is the Lexus dealership in Rosedale, California that has excellent prices on all OEM Lexus parts) using their 'CL5' discount code that offers a 10% discount to the Club Lexus community for a total of about $40, including tax and shipping. NOTE: When attempting to install/remove the LS460 cabin air filter BE SURE that the vehicle is accessory-powered-up and that the Recirc/Fresh Air button is set to Recirc, else serious damage will likely occur when you try to manually lift the blend door to access the filter.
Low-Beam Headlight Bulbs. The low-beam headlight bulbs are of the 'Xenon/HID-Discharge' type. The specific type required for the LS460 is named 'D4S.' The Toyota Avalon I owned for fifteen years also had 'Xenon/HID-Discharge' type low-beams. So I learned about these very quickly a very long time ago. The brand-name replacement bulbs -- the replacement bulbs at the auto parts store -- the replacement bulbs they sell at the dealership … are all grossly overpriced at around at least $300 per pair! Twenty years ago, when Xenon/HID was new and rare technology that price might have been fair. Not any more. You can purchase highly-rated no-name brand Xenon/HID-Discharge bulbs on Amazon for $30 per pair and they work just fine. Currently I am running DMEX brand D4S bulbs I bought on Amazon: [ [url]https://rb.gy/36stu ]. Btw, you want the '6000K Cool White' version of these bulbs to get a 'true white' color … instead of a blue-ish or amber-orange color.
To change these out, you actually have to loosen or remove the black plastic liners on the inside of the front wheel-wells to get access to the bulb sockets, so I just let the mechanic do it.
High-Beam Headlights. The high-beam headlight bulbs are halogen. The specific type required for the LS460 is named '9005' or 'HB3.' The Toyota Avalon I owned for fifteen years also had similar halogen high-beams. At one time, I believed the best/brightest long-distance LS460 bulb to be the OSRAM 3700K 9005/HB3 Night Breaker Unlimited, however it is discontinued. Its replacement, the OSRAM 3200K 9005/HB3 Night Breaker Laser 150%, is now very far off from 'true white' at 3200K but instead quite yellow/amber. Those bulbs, btw, had to be ordered from PowerBulbs.com out of Europe and the cost was about $50/pair. So currently I am running the Sylvania 3675K 9005/HB3 SilverStar Ultra. OSRAM & Sylvania are the same company, OSRAM in Europe and Sylvania in the Americas, and it is suspected that this SilverStar Ultra bulb was built to be an American version of the OSRAM Night Breaker Unlimited. They are available at Advance Auto Parts & AutoZone for about $60/pair. The socket covers are difficult to reach without setting aside the washer-fluid filler opening on one side and the fuse block on the other side; see the Owner's Manual for photographs and instructions. The socket cover for these bulbs are right next to the socket covers for the front turn signal bulbs and it is difficult to tell the difference between them … but the actual sockets are, of course, different.
Fog Lights. The high-beam headlight bulbs are halogen. The specific type required for the LS460 is named '9006' or 'HB4.' The Toyota Avalon I owned for fifteen years took the very same bulb. I prefer to run the fog lamps as assisting Daytime Running Lamps, and in the traditional yellow. For this application I use the Nokya 7610 2500K 9006/HB4 55W Hyper Yellow bulb. They are available on Amazon or eBay for about $15-$20/pair.
Turn Signal Bulbs. For the front the brightest are 7440A Sylvania SilverStar bulbs. The total quantity is 2. Available at Auto Zone, $12/pair. The socket cover for these bulbs are right next to the socket covers for the high-beam bulbs and it is difficult to tell the difference between them … but the actual sockets are, of course, different. For the rear the brightest are, 921 Sylvania SilverStar bulbs. The total quantity is FOUR, TWO for each side. Available at O'Reilly Auto Parts, Also $12/pair. The sockets are easily accessible behind removable panels in the trunk; see the Owner's Manual for photographs and instructions.
Other Bulbs. I once posted on ClubLexus.com all the extreme details about every bulb in the LS460, to assist in swapping them out for LEDs. Post #11 at https://rb.gy/njrzd .
Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish. You can buy a 5-ounce jar of this at most auto stores … or a 10-ounce jar on Amazon … for about $7. Then you can use it to lightly rub-down yellowed/fogged headlights with a microfiber cloth … and remove the polish with a clean microfiber cloth … and the headlights will become almost entirely clear. No need for a $50-$100 headlight restoration kit or service to restore them. Also you can use it to occasionally lightly rub-down & wipe-out the inside of the rear stainless steel exhaust tips, again with clean microfiber cloths, to remove the carbon buildup that makes the exhaust tips turn dark.
* * * * * * * *
Lexus LS460 Known Common Failure Issues: Because the original LS460 was designed & first built so long ago, the most common failure issues of older LS460s are, at this point, quite well known.
Premature Control Arm Failures. Control arms are part of a vehicle's suspension system; they connect the front wheels to the frame and steering system. The LS460 has a total of eight control arms, four for each front wheel (left/drivers & right/passenger). Each wheel has an upper forward arm, a lower forward arm, an upper rearward arm and a lower rearward arm. 2007-2012 (RWD) LS460s are known to have frequent, premature cracking and failures of the bushings inside the control arms due to poor design. (The bushings are the supportive rubber gaskets that surround the holes at each end of the control arm through which the arm is mounted.) In my own LS460 all eight control arms were replaced by a prior owner at a Lexus dealership at 91k miles (using his purchased extended warranty). Yet when I acquired the vehicle at 117k miles one of those replaced control arms had failed and yet another was partially cracking and failing. One early symptom of control arm failure is a metallic rattling when the wheel crosses bumps, potholes, etc. Further degradation results in more serious rattling, poor steering & poor alignment. Replacement of all eight control arms at the dealership is a $4,000 repair, $2,400 parts (the Lexus OEM control arms running $275-$325 each) plus $1,600 labor. Better to have your own mechanic do the work. Quality aftermarket suppliers such as BeckArnley, Moog, Dorman and Mevotech provide aftermarket control arms in $90-$120 range. Sources for those suppliers include RockAuto, AutoAnything, PartsGeek, CARiD & CarParts.com. If only replacing a single control arm on a wheel allow 2 hours of mechanic labor; if replacing all four control arms on a wheel, allow about 3-4 hours of mechanic labor. Lexus greatly improved the LS460's control arm design during 2012 & 2013. So it is those newer, improve control arms that should be used for replacement. So, when searching for them online, use at least 2014 for the year of the LS460 to avoid being offered the older, poorly-designed control arms. Here is a list of the 2013+ improved (RWD) LS460 control arm part numbers:
48630-59125 Left Upper Forward Control Arm (replaces 48630-59085)
48630-59135 Left Upper Rearward Control Arm (replaces 48630-59095)
48640-59045 Left Lower Forward Control Arm (replaces 48640-59035, 48640-59015)
48640-50131 Left Lower Rearward Control Arm (replaces 48640-50130, 48640-50070, 48640-50110)
48610-59125 Right Upper Forward Control Arm (replaces 48610-59085)
48610-59135 Right Upper Rearward Control Arm (replaces 48610-59095)
48620-59055 Right Lower Forward Control Arm (replaces 48620-59035, 48620-59015)
48620-50131 Right Lower Rearward Control Arm (replaces 48620-50130, 48620-50070, 48620-50110)
Brake Actuator Assembly Failure/Check Brake System Warning Message. The brake actuator assembly converts the pressing of the vehicle's brake pedal into the appropriate hydraulic (i.e., brake fluid) pressure required to actually activate the vehicle's brakes. The LS460 brake actuator assembly is a rectangular silver metal box located in corner of the engine compartment closest to the steering wheel. The primary early symptom of brake actuator assembly failure is it making a loud creaking, clunking, squawking or knocking sound (that the driver can hear emanating from under the hood of the vehicle) when applying the brakes lightly and/or when pressing the brakes while the vehicle is stopped. Also the dashboard TFT display may message "Check Brake System. Stop the vehicle in a safe place immediately. Contact a dealer." (And/or similar messaging for the ABS or VSC systems.)
The first Service Bulletin on the matter [L-SB-0069-09 (2009-06-02)] suggests that, in some cases, residual air in the brake actuator & brake system alone could be the sole cause of this condition. And so bleeding/changing brake fluid from the actuator and brake system (as described earlier above) alone may do the trick. And some ClubLexus.com posters indeed reported the problem resolved with simply a brake fluid bleed/change (while others reported not). In my own case, a brake fluid bleed/change done at the dealership resulted in a major reduction of symptoms, but not their total eradication. I now only occasionally get a "Check Brake System" message, that when starting the vehicle on an incline. And it readily clears on a restart. And yes the brake fluid reservoir is full, perhaps even overfilled. Accordingly you may wish to do a brake fluid bleed/change first before replacing the brake actuator assembly. However note that if you end up doing a brake actuator assembly replacement anyway that will also require a subsequent ('TechStream replacing actuator') brake fluid bleed/flush … so with that path you end up paying for the bleed twice.
That being said, there has been a very long history of partial or full failures of the brake actuator assembly in the 2007-2017 LS460s, especially in the 2007-2012 model years. Reference Service Bulletins include:
L-SB-0069-09 (2009-06-02)
L-SB-0178-09 (2009-12-02)
L-SB-0016-016 (2016-04-13)
L-SB-0083-16 (2016-09-30)
L-SB-0047-19 (2019-12-13)
Also, in April 2016, Lexus extended the warranty on free brake actuator replacement so as to reach all the way back to the 2007 LS460 model year, no mileage constraint, via its Campaign ZLG … but that campaign has now basically expired.
The root cause appears to be that the internal O-rings surrounding the internal solenoid valves fail. Also some report finding the failed actuator assembly has clogged some of its many small internal fluid holes, perhaps from lack of adherence to the bleed maintenance schedule. The brake actuator is designed so it is impossible to even be reassembled at all, much less be serviced/refurbished.
The good news is that, if the brake actuator assembly fails, it typically fails partially and over a longer period of time before it reaches a state of full failure. As it progressively fails, the brake pedal will become ever-more 'squishier,' requiring greater and greater pressure to achieve actual braking. Even more encouraging, there are almost no posters on ClubLexus.com stating they experienced a full failure of all braking due to a brake actuator assembly failure. Several said braking was very difficult but still possible with sufficient force applied to the brake pedal.
At the dealership, the brake actuator assembly replacement service is going to run at least $2,300-$2,500 … full list for the brake actuator assembly plus some dealer markup ($1,300-$1,500) plus about 3-4 hours of labor plus the brake fluid consumed by the bleed/change.
Or you can take a DIY approach. Install the new brake actuator assembly, get the brake fluid as 'right as you can,' then immediately take the vehicle over to the dealership for the 'official' brake fluid bleed/change (at $175). There are posters on ClubLexus.com claiming they or their mechanic successfully and simply swapped out the brake actuator and bled the brakes manually without using TechStream, total 2.5 hours of labor … such as poster #53 at
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...e-c1391-4.html
Around 2014 or so, Lexus issued a new & improved brake actuator assembly. The improved part number 44050-50110 Brake Actuator Assembly replaces 44050-50170, 44050-50150, 44050-50110, 44050-50090, 44050-50130. Online, direct from some Lexus dealerships, the part currently quotes in the $950-$1100 range. (Btw, the original part number for my own 2007 LS460 is indeed 44050-50130 … and the original broadcast quotes a (2007) list price of $3,800!) Sometimes you will see part number 04003-45450 stated to be superseding/replacing 44050-50110 but that is NOT correct. 04003-45450 was the part number Campaign ZLG assigned to the cost of the 44050-50110 improved brake actuator PLUS the required brake fluid.
I located a single claim, in a YouTube video, that the new brake actuator must be VIN-coded/programmed to the vehicle: https://rb.gy/cd2ki . However I believe what the narrator actually means/believes is that TechStream must be used to properly install the brake actuator assembly … since I have not found any poster on ClubLexus.com saying anything about VIN-coding being required.
So, snag the improved part online for $950, you or your mechanic install it and do the brake fluid as best as can (perhaps even just recycling the brake fluid that had to be bled-out before uninstalling the old actuator), then immediately go to the dealership for the 'official' brake fluid bleed/change, about $175.
Or you may be able to locate an independent repair shop focused on Toyota/Lexus product that already pays to have its access to TechStream software.
Or you can buy a TechStream OBD cable for $20-$30, then download the TechStream software and purchase a TWO-DAY license to access its 'professional level' functionality for another $65.
To me, this $1,200-$1,300 DYI approach sounds a lot better than handing the dealership $2,500 or more for the same work.
Sticky/cracked/chalky dashboard, door panels & other interior panels, glove box, center console. Most common in the 2007 to 2012 year models. The plastic material used was faulty. At one time, Lexus actually replaced such failed panels for free under its Campaign ZLZ, but that has expired. 303 Aerospace Protectant can mitigate the chalkiness.
Failed 62414-50090 B-Pillar-Center Lower LH Garnish. Like the above this panel cracks open from repeated impact of the driver's seat belt clip. Again, the plastic material used was faulty. Replace it with the new/improved part number 62414-50170. At one time, Lexus actually replaced the garnish for free under warranty referencing Service Bulletin L-SB-0018-08, but that expired with the basic warranty.
Mark Levinson amplifier. For those LS460s with the upgraded Mark Levinson sound system, identified by the Mark Levinson branding on the front door speaker grilles, the amplifier tends to fail, taking out all sound from the radio, CD player and such. A new replacement amplifier is $2600. There are some electronic shops (that can be found online) that will repair the failed amplifier for about $700.
Air Suspension System. For those LS460s with the upgraded air suspension system (that supposedly provides an adjustable and smoother ride), the system tends to fail. Thousands of dollars to repair. Most owners instead source a far-less expensive 'conversion kit' specific to the LS460 to delete the air suspension system and replace it with a traditional shock & spring suspension system. They claim that the converted system rides almost just as smooth as it did under the air suspension system.
Transmission ECM Software Flash. If the LS460 seems to stall briefly, a hesitation, when suddenly demanding an increase in acceleration, there is an ECM software flash that can be applied by the dealership that will likely fix it. The related Service Bulletin is L-SB-0122-017. The Bulletin also suggests an expensive replacement of the cylinder head covers and all 32 intake and exhaust valves … but the truth of the matter is that the software flash can be applied without doing any of that. In my case, the ECM software flash alone from the dealership entirely solved the problem.
Rear Sunshade Fails to Extend/Retract Properly. This is actually a common problem with Lexus and Toyota vehicles of the time period; my prior vehicle, a 2006 Toyota Avalon, had the exact same problem. The root cause: There is a small white plastic gear in the sunshade motor (that motor being embedded inside the sunshade assembly) that fails and/or breaks with heat and age. There are about 3 hours of labor involved in removing the sunscreen and another 3 hours to re-install it. The dealership will not bother to replace the small plastic gear; rather they will insist on selling and installing a brand-new sunshade assembly. So, at the dealership, this is easily a $4,000-$5,000 repair. For a DIY repair, the small white plastic gear can be cheaply sourced on eBay, but disassembling and reassembling the motor to replace the gear is very tricky. And, either way, eventually the white plastic gear will eventually fail again. A long time ago, there was a individual who tinkered with gear fabrication selling a more durable metal version of the gear for $200 on eBay, but he has long since retired from doing so. So probably the best solution is to just get the sunshade retracted by helping it down by-hand, then just leave it alone and/or open the center console and unwire its switch.
AUTO-75 Issue: Air Conditioning Resets On Every StartUp. SYMPTOMS: At startup, the air conditioning system is not working or running … and it cannot be operated in any way. The center console AUTO air conditioning control lights up solid green and it cannot be turned off. The button for toggling between outside air and recirculated cabin air is NOT lit at all. There is no center console display of temperature selection for either the driver side or passenger side. Then, after about 30-60 seconds, the AUTO light cuts off and the NAV screen displays a message that "Air Conditioning is off." All prior air conditioning settings have been forgotten and instead the temperature selection defaults to 75° on both sides of cabin. At this point, the air conditioning controls can now be manually operated and set. If the vehicle is only shut-off for a very short period of time, the condition does NOT reoccur at next startup. However if the vehicle shut-off for a longer period of time, the condition does reoccur at next startup.
These symptoms are apparently (an undocumented) messaging to the driver that there a fault is being reported to the air conditioning ECM regarding one of the system's servo motors. A servo motor is a little black plastic box containing a small motor that opens or closes a damper/door that, in turn, allows or blocks the flow of air through a particular part of the system.
CAUSES & FIXES: This is actually a common issue across a variety of Lexus vehicles from around 2000-2015 or so. I've already found seven threads about it on ClubLexus.com specific to the 2007-2017 LS460.
It seems that the most frequent cause is that the plastic linkage between the 'air inlet servo motor' and the 'blend door' (aka 'Air Mix Damper') is not functioning correctly.
The blend door is behind the glove box compartment and where the cabin air filter sits. It swivels up and down, based on whether the center console button is set to recirculate cabin air or to allow-in outside air. When the 'blend door' swivels up, you can see the cabin air filter and the 'blend door' is blocking the entry of outside air from the outside vent above the cabin air filter … so that the air conditioning 'blower' below the cabin air filter is only recirculating cabin air (that it is drawing-in from the below the glove box). When the 'blend door' swivels down, it blocks the view of the cabin air filter and the 'blend door' is allowing the entry of outside air from the outside vent above the cabin air filter … so that outside air 'blends' with the cabin air that the air conditioning 'blower' is drawing-in from the below the glove box).
The blend door is operated by the 'Air Inlet Servo Motor' that is mounted out-of-sight just to the left of the glove box compartment. The glove box actually has to be uninstalled to see and access the Air Inlet Servo Motor.
In some cases this may simply mean that the cabin air filter has not been reinstalled and/or is not seated properly. And that is causing a partial or full blockage of the blend door operation's full range of movement. And the air conditioning ECU is interpreting the feedback regarding the lack of full range of movement from the Air Inlet Servo Motor as a servo motor fault. The cabin air filter assembly may not have been inserted fully until it snapped down into place, blocking the blend door from coming fully down. The white plastic frame that holds the cabin air filter may be warped from heat or age and is not fully restraining the cabin air filter in place. The cabin air filter may not be seated fully under the four notches in the white plastic frame. And so on.
I was once able to solve this problem, when the blend door was operating correctly, simply by purchasing and installing a new OEM Charcoal Cabin Air Filter [87139-50100] and a new OEM Denso Cabin Air Filter Frame [88899-3A080] from MyLParts.Com (which is the Lexus dealership in Rosedale, California that has excellent prices on all OEM Lexus parts) using their 'CL5' discount code that offers a 10% discount to the Club Lexus community. The total for both, before tax and shipping was only $36. (Just the OEM cabin air filter, btw, with the discount code, is about $19.50. That is by far the least expensive source I have found for the OEM filter.)
Another possible cause: There is a white plastic linkage between the servo motor and the blend door; when the servo motor turns its white plastic arm, that arm works the other white plastic arm to open and close the blend door. That linkage may have become 'un-linked' or broken by someone replacing the cabin air filter by forcing the blend door open when it was down. When replacing the cabin air filter, the vehicle must be in 'recirculated air' mode so that the blend door will be up and readily providing access to the cabin air filter. It is also possible that the linkage has become filled with dirt, crud or the other stuff that the cabin air filter is intended to catch, again preventing its full range of movement. Getting to the Air Inlet Servo Motor linkage requires at least an hour of labor to uninstall the entire glove box, after that maybe 2 minutes to relink the linkage and then another hour of labor to reinstall the glove box.
Photos & instructions as to how to relink the linkage, Post #29 at:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...or-broken.html
Photos & instructions as how to uninstall the glove box at:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...tment-diy.html
After those causes are excluded, then the likely cause is that any one of the other servo motors is generating the fault. There's a bunch of them throughout the front of the vehicle. Techstream software does identify such a fault to the specific servo motor … and it can also be used to test the full range of movement of all of the servo motors. In some cases the servo motor at-fault can be resolved by uninstalling it, snapping it open, cleaning it of all dirt and crud, lubing the gear, then reassembling and reinstalling it. Or its linkage may require the same type of cleaning. Or the servo motor may have outright failed and so has to be replaced entirely. Luckily there are videos about all that posted by a ClubLexus.com member on YouTube at youtu.be/CdQUBCtGvG4 and youtu.be/_kpqncZ0Ufw .
If the battery is disconnected, that may also cause a servo motor fault. The interruption in power may cause the ECU to 'forget' the actual/true position of the gear & linkage. In the same way a battery disconnect will sometimes cause a window or sunroof to forget its position and so not fully open or close as it should. When the linkage (or window or sunroof) cannot report a full range of movement (according to what/where the ECU 'thinks' that range is supposed to be), it reports a fault. In this case TechStream will have to be used to 'initialize' the servo motor, to find the correct positioning of the full range of movement. A new servo motor (or a cleaned servo motor) will also require that it be 'initialized' using TechStream.
# # #
Last edited by DrQuality; 10-29-23 at 01:47 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by DrQuality:
10-05-23, 12:06 PM
#2
This is a great write up. I think it should be stickied for new members of this forum as they inquire regarding any potential ls460 purchase or are coming here after a recent purchase.
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DrQuality (10-05-23)
10-05-23, 12:34 PM
#3
Lexus Champion
So much incorrect info here I don't know where to start.
You literally lead with the suggestion to use the wrong fuel and encourage KCLV degradation and ringland stress lol!
The transmissions can and should be serviced every 60-80k and I have personally serviced 4 that were over 150k to bring them back to proper function.
I'll go over all the other incorrect things you wrote later when I'm back from my shop
You literally lead with the suggestion to use the wrong fuel and encourage KCLV degradation and ringland stress lol!
The transmissions can and should be serviced every 60-80k and I have personally serviced 4 that were over 150k to bring them back to proper function.
I'll go over all the other incorrect things you wrote later when I'm back from my shop
The following 3 users liked this post by Striker223:
10-05-23, 01:14 PM
#4
Do you know what's worse than ants in your pants?
10-05-23, 01:18 PM
#5
Your uncle
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XF40FSPORT (10-05-23)
10-05-23, 02:15 PM
#6
There may be some incorrect information here but overall i think it was well intentioned and a corrected version would be helpful for new forum members. It looks like it took a while for OP to write up and we should acknowledge his efforts. Appreciate your help in correcting this striker.
10-05-23, 03:00 PM
#7
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Nice effort and best intentions. This is one person's opinions, many of these points have been debated here over the years. I've been a member here for many years, I've seen the debates and plenty of different opinions. I'll leave it to the moderators, but don't feel this should be "stickied" as it's not fact.
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XF40FSPORT (10-05-23)
Trending Topics
10-05-23, 05:44 PM
#8
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
So much incorrect info here I don't know where to start. You literally lead with the suggestion to use the wrong fuel and encourage KCLV degradation and ringland stress lol! The transmissions can and should be serviced every 60-80k and I have personally serviced 4 that were over 150k to bring them back to proper function. I'll go over all the other incorrect things you wrote later when I'm back from my shop
But I will briefly weigh in on the 87 vs 91 issue. There are certainly a number of threads at ClubLexus debating 87 vs 91. Here are several ... and they will lead to quite a few more:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-08-ls460.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...007-ls460.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...s-in-ls460.htm
Also Edmunds has weighed in with a (non-Lexus-specific) explanatory discussion of the matter ... "today, engine control systems can compensate for low octane by adjusting ignition timing to avoid knocking. This sophisticated electronic capability effectively tunes engines on the fly and gives drivers more flexibility in the grade of fuel that they can use safely ... Compared to premium gas, lower-octane fuels don't allow the engine to run as much ignition advance during situations calling for rapid acceleration. The performance loss is especially noticeable in turbocharged gasoline engines. ... The performance loss, however, is something you will only notice if you have a heavy foot and accelerate rapidly from a dead stop or when you change lanes at highway speeds. If you accelerate moderately, the loss of power may not be noticeable whether you use premium or regular-grade fuel."
https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy...g-premium.html
But what I found that pursuaded me to go 87 was finding what AN ENGINEER AT LEXUS had to say about this matter:
"As mentioned, it’s rare that new cars require premium-grade fuel, but two test vehicles that passed through here recently did -- or at least, that’s what it said on their fuel doors. As both were Lexus models, we called the company to see what they’d recommend if someone accidentally filled one with regular. According to Doug Herbert at Lexus, 'Required' is a bit overstated. Herbert said that both vehicles (an RC 350 sports coupe and an NX 200t compact SUV) will run on regular-grade fuel without damage. But since both the advertised power ratings and the EPA fuel-economy figures were attained using premium, that’s what they have to put (on the fuel door) as the required fuel. However, he also warned that continued use of regular-grade gas would cause the engine’s computer to back off on the ignition timing -- thus adversely affecting both power and fuel economy -- and that it would continue to do so for a time even after the car is filled with premium."
Source: https://blog.consumerguide.com/do-i-...e-premium-gas/
According to LinkedIn, Doug Herbert worked for Lexus since 1998 and at the time of this article, he was a 'Field Education Senior Specialist" at Lexus USA Headquarters, where he developed & delivered product and dealer training for 'Lexus College.'
Last edited by DrQuality; 10-19-23 at 04:47 PM.
10-05-23, 05:55 PM
#9
Problems can be expected from any 15 year old vehicle because parts and electronics fail no matter how well serviced or maintained. Personally, I wouldn't buy a 07 LS because of the common failures. The newer the better.
10-06-23, 07:11 AM
#11
Wow, that is an extensive write up! I read much of it but not all, subjects like the bulbs and belts I skipped because I’ve never had to replace any. Overall I thought it was generally accurate. I think the key for anyone reading it is to heed his opening admonition that it is his opinion and experiences and others may have differing ones.
Of the brand name products mentioned, I use many of them, but disagree on some like the battery (I always use Interstate). I think this would be the case for anyone reading this. A person has a product they have been using successfully for years and they’re going to stick with it.
As to subjects like gasoline octane and whether/when to flush the transmission, we have had so many threads on this with opinions and experiences on all sides. I think people will simply do what they are comfortable with.
Of the brand name products mentioned, I use many of them, but disagree on some like the battery (I always use Interstate). I think this would be the case for anyone reading this. A person has a product they have been using successfully for years and they’re going to stick with it.
As to subjects like gasoline octane and whether/when to flush the transmission, we have had so many threads on this with opinions and experiences on all sides. I think people will simply do what they are comfortable with.
10-06-23, 11:55 AM
#12
Driver School Candidate
The car will indeed compensate for lower octane fuel, it's called knock sensors and you better hope they do their job. The car does not have a calibration for 87 octane. Full stop.
10-06-23, 01:11 PM
#13
Lexus Champion
I knew that there would be (and is) vigorous debate on some of the topics I covered. That is why I mentioned that in the header ... and encouraged a diversity of opinions in the comments. And I don't think my debating what I have said would really be productive. I believe there's a lot of good information there as a starting point - in one place - for someone who is a new owner of an older LS460 ... who may not even be aware of some of the topics, much less one way or the other.
But I will briefly weigh in on the 87 vs 91 issue. There are certainly a number of threads at ClubLexus debating 87 vs 91. But what I found that pursuaded me to go 87 was finding what someone AT Lexus had to say about this matter:
"As mentioned, it’s rare that new cars require premium-grade fuel, but two test vehicles that passed through here recently did -- or at least, that’s what it said on their fuel doors. As both were Lexus models, we called the company to see what they’d recommend if someone accidentally filled one with regular. According to Doug Herbert at Lexus, 'Required' is a bit overstated. Herbert said that both vehicles (an RC 350 sports coupe and an NX 200t compact SUV) will run on regular-grade fuel without damage. But since both the advertised power ratings and the EPA fuel-economy figures were attained using premium, that’s what they have to put (on the fuel door) as the required fuel. However, he also warned that continued use of regular-grade gas would cause the engine’s computer to back off on the ignition timing -- thus adversely affecting both power and fuel economy -- and that it would continue to do so for a time even after the car is filled with premium."
Source: https://blog.consumerguide.com/do-i-...e-premium-gas/
According to LinkedIn, Doug Herbert worked for Lexus since 1998 and at the time of this article, he was a 'Field Education Senior Specialist" at Lexus USA Headquarters, where he developed & delivered product and dealer training for 'Lexus College.'
But I will briefly weigh in on the 87 vs 91 issue. There are certainly a number of threads at ClubLexus debating 87 vs 91. But what I found that pursuaded me to go 87 was finding what someone AT Lexus had to say about this matter:
"As mentioned, it’s rare that new cars require premium-grade fuel, but two test vehicles that passed through here recently did -- or at least, that’s what it said on their fuel doors. As both were Lexus models, we called the company to see what they’d recommend if someone accidentally filled one with regular. According to Doug Herbert at Lexus, 'Required' is a bit overstated. Herbert said that both vehicles (an RC 350 sports coupe and an NX 200t compact SUV) will run on regular-grade fuel without damage. But since both the advertised power ratings and the EPA fuel-economy figures were attained using premium, that’s what they have to put (on the fuel door) as the required fuel. However, he also warned that continued use of regular-grade gas would cause the engine’s computer to back off on the ignition timing -- thus adversely affecting both power and fuel economy -- and that it would continue to do so for a time even after the car is filled with premium."
Source: https://blog.consumerguide.com/do-i-...e-premium-gas/
According to LinkedIn, Doug Herbert worked for Lexus since 1998 and at the time of this article, he was a 'Field Education Senior Specialist" at Lexus USA Headquarters, where he developed & delivered product and dealer training for 'Lexus College.'
You can see the issue on live data as well since the engine will constantly pull/advance timing and have sight detonation resulting in timing being pulled. It will do this endlessly on 87 octane since the computer is tuned for and is trying to hit very particular advance targets but when the knock sensors detect the detonation it will pull back a lot of timing and then "creep" it back up and pull it again when it detonates again.
Then you get seized rings and oil consumption and the cylinder 5 sealing issue like so many here have had to deal with.
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heidihidin (10-06-23)
10-06-23, 01:12 PM
#14
Lexus Champion
Can you drop 87 octane in and the car run? Sure! But it will cost you far more if/when something does go wrong
Last edited by Striker223; 10-06-23 at 01:17 PM.
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