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I recall a thread where the cool air for battery cooling is sourced from in the cabin with a filter buried in the system. There was an exploded drawn view of that system from a Lexus parts website. Suggest that you do a search for year specific fan or similar parts to find a sketch of your specific year layout. It wouldn't surprise me if the cooling setup got changed by engineers over different model years.
Compared to a Prius DIY replacement, the LS is much more involved. reassembly always seems harder than disassembly. LOL. If the battery supplier has a good DIY guide, I'd be more inclined to DIY. I suppose it also depends on how much free time and ability one has.
Ha I was pretty close on my 20 percent guess. You sound fairly handy. Here are some links to help you decide if diy is something you want to tackle. I believe there are module sets available on sites like alibaba for $2k. I suspect after shipping they are around $2700.
These pictures you've probably seen but here is a link to my 600 battery. The biggest challenge with replacing all the modules would be the weight and way they are riveted together. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...l#post11599098
I replaced a few modules in our RX400h this spring. ~5000 miles later the battery is still functioning perfectly. The RX pack is riveted together just like the LS. One nice thing about the RX is the pack is split into 3 different sections. Each weighs about 40 lbs which makes them fairly easy to manhandle. It takes a considerable amount of clamping force to reassemble the packs to get the new rivets to line up. I imagine this process on the full size LS600 battery could be tricky. Makes me wonder if they use a hydraulic press at the factory and squeeze the whole pack together.
Pictures of the RX here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...10k-miles.html
If you have air struts there are no extra mounts to replace. It's a one and done type of replacement, nothing is serviceable. Maybe the struts themselves are worn. The actuators on top of the strut may not be connected, those could clank around if loose. The bushings on the control arms would be my guess. Usually you can see them torn if you crank the wheel full left / right. Stick your head in there and check them out with a flashlight.
Ha I was pretty close on my 20 percent guess. You sound fairly handy. Here are some links to help you decide if diy is something you want to tackle. I believe there are module sets available on sites like alibaba for $2k. I suspect after shipping they are around $2700.
These pictures you've probably seen but here is a link to my 600 battery. The biggest challenge with replacing all the modules would be the weight and way they are riveted together. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...l#post11599098
I replaced a few modules in our RX400h this spring. ~5000 miles later the battery is still functioning perfectly. The RX pack is riveted together just like the LS. One nice thing about the RX is the pack is split into 3 different sections. Each weighs about 40 lbs which makes them fairly easy to manhandle. It takes a considerable amount of clamping force to reassemble the packs to get the new rivets to line up. I imagine this process on the full size LS600 battery could be tricky. Makes me wonder if they use a hydraulic press at the factory and squeeze the whole pack together.
Pictures of the RX here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...10k-miles.html
If you have air struts there are no extra mounts to replace. It's a one and done type of replacement, nothing is serviceable. Maybe the struts themselves are worn. The actuators on top of the strut may not be connected, those could clank around if loose. The bushings on the control arms would be my guess. Usually you can see them torn if you crank the wheel full left / right. Stick your head in there and check them out with a flashlight.
I don't know if I'm terribly interested in tearing open the battery pack and replacing individual modules--though that is an option--so much as replacing the entire thing. My only concern is the weight. I'm pretty strong, but it looks heavy and difficult to maneuver. Is it something wherein I need to commandeer a friend to help me hoist the thing, or can I do it myself?
As far as the struts and suspension, I'll give it another look. I didn't check with the wheels cranked.
Lifting it out of the car is definitely a 2 person job. Sliding the new one back under the ac box is helpful to have 2 people. Otherwise it is a 1 person job.
Removing the brick of modules from the pack looks like a 2 person job too. Once you see how much work is involved with wiring /nuts/ grounds/ the dealer option for $6k starts to look very attractive. There are a number of different size and types of nuts. I can see how the other gent on here that used prius cells left a connector loose. I'm surprised mine went back together and functioned without errors.
Do you have a link to the $2750 one? I'm guessing it is just the brick of modules. The electronics and wiring within the pack are probably close to that price by themselves.
The link to that battery pack in your post indicates that they have installers all over the country. Why not enter your zip code on the website and see who is near you and what it would cost to get it installed? I entered a Tulsa zip and there were several installers. I don't know where in OK you are.
The link to that battery pack in your post indicates that they have installers all over the country. Why not enter your zip code on the website and see who is near you and what it would cost to get it installed? I entered a Tulsa zip and there were several installers. I don't know where in OK you are.
Ah, but that map/online tool isn't reliable. Their only installer--who is in Tulsa, where, incidentally, I am not--ended up wanting another $2,300 to put in the traction battery in, bringing the total to $5,200, or thereabouts. At that point, I think I would just have Lexus of Tulsa do the battery for the $6,400 they quoted...unless Eskridge Lexus of Oklahoma City (much closer to me) could beat it.
However, I decided to pull the trigger on a GreenTec battery. $4,145 ($3,695 for the battery, plus $450 for mobile installation), and they'll do it in my driveway. The salesperson was very nice. I was actually willing to drive to their shop in Dallas to have it installed for $250, and the salesperson determined it'd be cheaper to do the mobile installation, because they have no presence here in Oklahoma and so wouldn't have to charge sales tax.
Anyway, GreenTec seems to have very good reviews, so I feel reasonably confident in making that move. I paid the deposit, which was the $450 install fee, and they'll begin building the battery pack, since they build to order. I could have it installed as early as Thursday of next week, which would be fantastic.
What a good deal! So glad you explored the website further. Now we can share this info with others. Let us know how the process goes for you. If there is a special filter available, get a fresh one for the job. The fan is usually easily cleanable.
What a good deal! So glad you explored the website further. Now we can share this info with others. Let us know how the process goes for you. If there is a special filter available, get a fresh one for the job. The fan is usually easily cleanable.
Good advice! I'll definitely do that, and clean the fan while there's access to it.
Lifting it out of the car is definitely a 2 person job. Sliding the new one back under the ac box is helpful to have 2 people. Otherwise it is a 1 person job.
Removing the brick of modules from the pack looks like a 2 person job too. Once you see how much work is involved with wiring /nuts/ grounds/ the dealer option for $6k starts to look very attractive. There are a number of different size and types of nuts. I can see how the other gent on here that used prius cells left a connector loose. I'm surprised mine went back together and functioned without errors.
Do you have a link to the $2750 one? I'm guessing it is just the brick of modules. The electronics and wiring within the pack are probably close to that price by themselves.
Here's the link. I called them and it's a whole pack. However, I decided to go with a different company. As far as the control arms and suspension, because you'd told me to take a look at those. I suppose the bottom ones do look pretty awful:
I see I have a leaky CV boot on the driver's side, too.
Looks like a good deal on the hybrid battery, nice job. Hopefully they use all new modules.
The control arms ends with the boots tend not to wear out, despite how nasty they may look.
This is where you want to look for bushing damage. It looks bad to me.
I suspect these are not going to come out easily.
It looks like the uppers have been replaced before. That rear yellow one doesn't look like the factory ones I've removed. You'll want to look up close on all 4 of the uppers where I put that red mark. If you see tearing with the wheels cranked left or right they going bad.
To save some time I replace both arms and the lower ball joint. Saves the hassle of removing the arms from the lower joint.
These are the lower ball joint assemblies I've used the past few times.
I just read another thread where the boot isn't available. He had to buy an axel. It may not apply here, but be advised, it may not be as simple as you hoped. Do your research.
cv Boots aren't available for rwd cars. The awd boots can be had at any dealer. I ordered this $25 one ( not sure if it is the position you need). https://www.ebay.com/itm/186080811556 USPS sent it on a tour to 5 different states.
I got tired of waiting and purchased a $70 oem boot from the dealer. The boots look identical to me. The clamps in the oem kit are tricky to tighten. The aftermarket boot kit had crimp style clamps. Access is limited for the inner boot inner clamp . The crimp style is likely easier to install in that position.