New-to-Me LS 600h L: Control Arms, Diagnostics
11-09-23, 12:35 PM
#31
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Thanks so much for clarifying my partial info with hard fact. From the photos, age and miles, this car will be needing lots of undercarriage work in the coming year. It's great the owner is handy. Hoping he becomes a regular contributor here.
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miket000 (11-09-23)
11-09-23, 12:58 PM
#33
Pole Position
Lisle 30800 is a correct tool for OEM compression bands.
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miket000 (11-09-23)
11-09-23, 02:02 PM
#34
Those would have been helpful. I was able to fully close them with pliers albeit not easily.
11-09-23, 04:39 PM
#35
Pole Position
11-09-23, 04:51 PM
#36
Pole Position
It is the correct tool for axle boots, that is what I was suggesting it for.
11-09-23, 06:02 PM
#38
Pole Position
I used Lisle 30600 on my truck on front axles, what a savior!
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miket000 (11-09-23)
11-10-23, 01:13 PM
#39
Rookie
Thread Starter
Alright, so Lexus confirmed exactly what I thought on a more thorough inspection, which is that every one of the control arms on the front suspension has gone bad, as well as the ball joints. I didn't notice, but on the right side, the inner CV axle also needs to be re-booted.
Rear suspension was fine. All four air struts were fine. They said the motor mounts were fine, too.
So...while I was considering going full OE and could absolutely afford to do so, I'm actually going to be a guinea pig for the group here and do all aftermarket parts. I have already ordered them. I went with Beck Arnley for all eight control arms, and with miket000's suggestion for the ball joints on Amazon. I suspect you all are right, and that the bolts are going to fight me. So I'll go ahead and spray some anti-seize on the bolts as soon as I get the car back, and then every day until the parts arrive.
I'll also take care of the CV axles and re-grease/re-boot them. For some reason, it makes me a bit nervous to do that part, but it can't be that difficult.
We'll see in a year or two how it does, as soon as I get the parts and install them. I'm in for roughly $1,000 using aftermarket parts.
Rear suspension was fine. All four air struts were fine. They said the motor mounts were fine, too.
So...while I was considering going full OE and could absolutely afford to do so, I'm actually going to be a guinea pig for the group here and do all aftermarket parts. I have already ordered them. I went with Beck Arnley for all eight control arms, and with miket000's suggestion for the ball joints on Amazon. I suspect you all are right, and that the bolts are going to fight me. So I'll go ahead and spray some anti-seize on the bolts as soon as I get the car back, and then every day until the parts arrive.
I'll also take care of the CV axles and re-grease/re-boot them. For some reason, it makes me a bit nervous to do that part, but it can't be that difficult.
We'll see in a year or two how it does, as soon as I get the parts and install them. I'm in for roughly $1,000 using aftermarket parts.
11-10-23, 01:23 PM
#40
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
The Lexus inspection was a good move. Price point seems good as well. Be sure to follow procedure on how to tighten control arm bolts with the proper position of car weight on the wheels.
11-10-23, 01:27 PM
#41
Right you are to worry (a little) about RH front axle - it's a bugger!
Otherwise wishing luck with the project!
Otherwise wishing luck with the project!
11-10-23, 03:29 PM
#42
Lexus Champion
Delphi has worked for me and 3 other LSs so far, I have no idea who B&A gets their arms from though. It may be from the same place but I don't know
11-10-23, 04:04 PM
#43
11-10-23, 05:10 PM
#44
Lexus Champion
I partially agree, it's not really that heavy vs the vast majority of cars (trucks etc are 50% heavier with ease) vs the type of suspension it has.....and the things that kill this style of suspension are low speed heavy movements. The multi-link is great but it has so many arms and planes of movement it's the low speed deflections that really take a toll.
11-10-23, 05:35 PM
#45
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Heavy for the type of suspension. If trucks have this type, they would wear them out even quicker. Do you mean that driving at speed is more straight line driving vs low speed (city) where you're making more turns and stressing the components? That would make sense. One way to check if this suspension is worn is to turn the front wheels all the way and look at the bushings. Right?