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2007 LS460 135k miles Help with PO420 and PO328

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Old 04-01-24, 08:20 AM
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Mrcoach
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Default 2007 LS460 135k miles Help with PO420 and PO328

Hello all in December PO138 & PO 158 and replaced bank 1 and 2 sensors
so last few weeks po420 and 328 came on and cleared itself one time and today it came on I was able to clear it myself with the reader. The car is running beautiful and lots of power. I always use premium gas. THANKS in advance
I have a picture of my receipt from December and the 2 codes





Last edited by Mrcoach; 04-01-24 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Update information
Old 04-01-24, 09:45 AM
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Boykie
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What is the mileage? Probably cat's time...
Old 04-01-24, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Boykie
What is the mileage? Probably cat's time...
Thanks for the reply the car is a 2007 with 135k
miles
Old 04-01-24, 10:12 AM
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Tdes395
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Originally Posted by Mrcoach
Thanks for the reply the car is a 2007 with 135k
miles
probably just a small hole in the exhaust somewhere. I’d take it to a muffler shop for inspection.
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Old 04-01-24, 10:14 AM
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Mrcoach
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Originally Posted by Tdes395
probably just a small hole in the exhaust somewhere. I’d take it to a muffler shop for inspection.
Ok thanks for that suggestion 👍
Old 04-01-24, 10:33 AM
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Gerf
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Originally Posted by Mrcoach
The car is running beautiful and lots of power. I always use premium gas.
How's your fuel mileage? unless you have an emission test in the near future I wouldn't be too concerned unless you have drivability issues.
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Old 04-01-24, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Gerf
How's your fuel mileage? unless you have an emission test in the near future I wouldn't be too concerned unless you have drivability issues.
I’m getting like 21-28mpg and I only use Shell Premium gas. The other issue is I’m going to be driving from Florida to NJ in a few weeks and was going to sell this or trade it because its 17 years old and it’s time for a newer car.
Old 04-01-24, 11:25 AM
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Well, if you're going to trade it in you might want to just leave it as is. A dealer is going to try to give you as little as possible for it anyway.
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Old 04-01-24, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Gerf
Well, if you're going to trade it in you might want to just leave it as is. A dealer is going to try to give you as little as possible for it anyway.
That’s a good point although I hate to sell it to someone with something wrong. I just don’t want to dump a bunch of money into it at this point.
Thanks again
Old 04-04-24, 07:51 AM
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dan25man
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Just to check, when you say Bank 1 + Bank 2, you mean that all four (4) total O2 sensors were replaced, right? Not sure if your scanner has this functionality, but if you're able to pull live data you can rear the voltage of the O2 sensor directly. At idle (or a steady state load) the voltages should be fairly constant. I don't know if the upstream is wideband. I think for wideband O2 they are either -3 to +3 or -5 to +5V. Then narrow band (downstream) O2 sensors are -1 to +1. Or something like that. If the voltages jump randomly, or if your left bank readings are different then your right bank readings then you'd know if the sensor is bad, or the cat-converter is bad. I know Monroe offers an aftermarket replacement exhaust header + cat that's like ~$1200 per side, instead of whatever Lexus OEM is. You could also try and "clean" the cats, but I don't know if that's a ligit process, or just a strong vacuum and some finger crossing.

A nice auto parts store may have a reader that could help you diagnose too, as long as you go at a dead time like 9-10am on a weekday.
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Old 04-05-24, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by dan25man
Just to check, when you say Bank 1 + Bank 2, you mean that all four (4) total O2 sensors were replaced, right? Not sure if your scanner has this functionality, but if you're able to pull live data you can rear the voltage of the O2 sensor directly. At idle (or a steady state load) the voltages should be fairly constant. I don't know if the upstream is wideband. I think for wideband O2 they are either -3 to +3 or -5 to +5V. Then narrow band (downstream) O2 sensors are -1 to +1. Or something like that. If the voltages jump randomly, or if your left bank readings are different then your right bank readings then you'd know if the sensor is bad, or the cat-converter is bad. I know Monroe offers an aftermarket replacement exhaust header + cat that's like ~$1200 per side, instead of whatever Lexus OEM is. You could also try and "clean" the cats, but I don't know if that's a ligit process, or just a strong vacuum and some finger crossing.

A nice auto parts store may have a reader that could help you diagnose too, as long as you go at a dead time like 9-10am on a weekday.

Thanks so much brother for all that great information unfortunately I’m not sure but according to the repair shop I believe they replaced 2 sensors in December it was a little over a thousand dollars and as far as my code reader I don’t think it does live data it was like 36.00 on Amazon I think it just reads codes and clear codes. After stepping on the gas pedal and flooring it I’ve smelled the rotten eggs smell I believe from the Catalytic Converter. Also checking online for the OEM Cat it’s going to be about 1200.00
I will keep you posted if I can find out anymore information. Thanks my friend
Old 04-07-24, 04:57 AM
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dan25man
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Hey anytime! I hope you get the issue fixed. I know my 180k mi sc430 I had the rotten egg smell but I just drove it hard a few times and that burned out the excess crap on the cats. Ive heard that if you NEVER floor it you can get a soot buildup on your cats, because they dont get super hot under normal (low rpm) cruising. So idk if you should just have your car in the driveway, warm it up, then hold the rpm at 3-4k for a little bit. Revving to 5-6. Or just take it for a drive, sport mode, and get the rpm up. (Your just trying to heat up the cats not attract police attention ) But if your already getting codes... i just know between my 180k sc430 and my 315k mile LS460 all my cats are original...
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