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I simply don't understand why Toyota goes backward on the oil filter design.
This type of filter kit reminds me of my first used car, Toyota Corona, I bought for $850 back in 1975.
It was quite messy when changing the oil and filter since I did not know any better with just the car manual.
Toyota should design a disposable filter cartridge for simplicity just like other models.
Most high end vehicles use this design. BMW, etc. It's cheaper to manufacture, easier to recycle, and allows for filter inspection w/o draining the oil, extending oil change intervals etc. Personally I prefer it over messy spin-ons. My Wifes BMW is awesome...it has the canister on top of the engine by the rad. Simply unscrew the cap and remove/replace the filter. No mess. Here's a good read referencing your question from BITOG:
I dumped the oil today to put full Synth in it, I just feel it does a better job than Dyno.. but that is just me.
This was my first change on the LS. It was very straight forward and the filter kits I got for my 06 GS300 were exactly the same. I bought them off EBay for 9.95 for (3). In each kit I have the filter (much higher quality than what the dealer had in there BTW), the plastic drain spout, the small O ring for that bleeder nut and the larger O ring for the filter housing.
Its as simple as taking the bleeder nut off (is there an official name for this?) and putting the plastic drain spout in there to dump the filter area before you take the housing off. Then the main pan, which took some time.. as it is 9 quarts! Cleaned it all up and put it back together hand tight, the dealer guys always just crank this together so hard that its almost impossible to get back off.. not sure why they do that, I like to pay attention to how much torque I use.
Then it was 9 quarts of Full Synth, a reset of the Computer and a reset of the idiot light, I am not sure these are linked, Im assuming they are not?
Any how thanks for the tips up here, I was able to do this under 30 min and I have piece of mind as I get underneath and check out all the hoses and belts etc. I dont like counting on the dealer to do this the way I want it all done, but its much easier than any car I have ever owned, a very simple DIY for those of you that like to stay close to your own maintenance.
You said after the oil change you had to reset the computer and reset the idiot light,how do you reset those 2 things and is it absolutely necessary??? 2007 LS 460 L
I know, 11 year old thread, current owner of two SC430s, 2002 and 2007. In the market for a ~2017 LS460.
anyway, thought I would share some inexpensive Mobil 1.
Tractor Supply Co, TSC
Clearance $14.99 5qt, Cashier had an additional 25% off coupon. $12 ea after tax. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...2?cm_vc=-10005
yea.. if you look @ the cap it says 0w-20 or 5w-20.
Originally Posted by VIPLexus
ILexus of Austin, we use 5W-30 for all the cars. But for the LS460, we use 0W-20.
Originally Posted by Valley101
0w20 is the oil you are supposed to use ... 5w20 can be used but if used should be replaced with 0w20 at next oil change.
Originally Posted by Nospinzone
I would rather get improved engine protection than an extra .1 mpg fuel economy.
On-point, Nospinzone.
Further, earlier comments from abs, Kennyr44 & Doublebase led me to suspect that this official 20 upper viscosity constraint was yet another Lexus Murica!-only rule … being tied to the US CAFE laws about auto manufacturers hitting fleet-wide MPG targets.
So I just spent an hour looking at Lexus LS460 Owner's Manuals from around the world. Only in the USA & Canada are the choices officially limited to 0w20 & 5w20. In Britain, Ireland & Australia, the owner is directed to choose the viscosity (appropriate to the operating environment) from among 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 10w30, 15w40 & even 20w50. Even in ever-frigid Finland, Sweden & Norway, owners have access to all these viscosity options … and they were in fact all available in every Manual for the European Market that I opened.
As example, I've attached a copy of the relevant pages from the Irish-version of the 2011 Lexus LS460 Owner's Manual.
Very frustrating. Because of USA CAFE regulations that eternally increase MPG expectations, auto manufacturers are being forced to employ less viscous oil in order to gain greater fuel efficiency … at the expense of less actual engine protection. See https://bit.ly/3CtfrrM . The second graph at that website shows that a 30 upper viscosity oil (with a HTHS somewhat above 3.0) is maximizing engine protection … and at almost twice the rate of protection provided by an 20 upper viscosity oil (with an HTHS of about 2.5-2.7). And check out a few SAE Viscosity Temperature Charts; more than a few suggest that the protection of 20 upper viscosity oil begins to diminish after/around 75°F ambient, while the protection of 30 upper viscosity oil begins to diminish only after/around 95°F ambient. And Internet-searching on "5w20 5w30" brings up on-point many discussions, YouTube videos, etc. on this topic.
Perhaps if we had all been using 5w30 all along, those lower tension rings (also an artifact of CAFE standards) wouldn't be wearing out causing increasing oil consumption after 150k and such.
Did you simply use drive on ramps? Di you feel you had enough room to operate? Glad it all went well. I have been having mine done at the Toyota dealerships here as they have a change while you wait area, as opposed to Lexus which is an all day affair.
You need a lift or ramp to work under the LS460 since it's too low. I have a pair of ramp from Harbor Freight and two jack stands as back up.
Any recommendations for oil filters ,not from the dealer like Walmart?
Last go-round I used "Mobil1 M1C256A Extended Performance Oil Filter Cartridge & Gaskets." $17 before tax at O'Reilly.
Btw, for oil I went with "Mobil1 Extended Performance High Mileage Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-30." (Yes after much research and living in Vegas, I believe 5W-30 to be a good decision). It is way cheaper in the 5 quart bottles, at Walmart $25 before tax, then anywhere else. It takes 2 5-quart bottles to do a change.