AP2

iTrader: (1)

I'm trying to add a subwoofer with a LC2i. I removed the factory sub and tapped the wires to the LC2i but I'm only getting power on all 4 wires from the sub. Please let me know if you have any info. I did some searches but couldn't find any.

Btw I have a 08 standard non ML speakers

Thanks!

Chuckwagon

I'm not sure I understand your config completely, so let me spitball a little to try and get a clearer understanding. (Also, what was the original problem that precipitated the change?)

I'm guessing you are trying to replace a dead sub with a new one, and that it was the sub driver that is dead and not the amp. Or you are trying to add a more powerful sub with a new amp. In either case I assume the old amp still works. So, you have removed the existing sub, and taken the wires that normally would connect that sub to its amp and connected them to the LC2i. (Here's where I'm fuzzy.) The LC2i is then NOT providing any signal to the new amp? Or are you saying that with the LC2i connected no other speakers are working, only the sub is working? What 4 wires for the sub have power?

I'm confused because I would assume you could do as follows; start with your normal factory setup, disconnect the speaker leads from your old sub, and now the system still works, just without a sub. So far so good? If so, connect the old sub speaker leads to a speaker-to-line level converter (like an LC2i) and feed that now line level signal to a new amp and sub setup. The LC2i may be a bit overkill, as the leads that went to the sub should only be carrying low freqs anyway, so no need for a more sophisticated converter that does both mains and subs, but rather only a simple speaker level to line level conversion is needed. But I would expect the LC2i work.

Let me know if I'm way off base, and we can try to come to a meeting of the minds to figure out what you need to get it all working.

Cheers,
Charles

AP2

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for not being more clear.

Thanks for responding Charles


All my speakers work. I just wanted to upgrade the sub so I removed the factory sub and replacing it with a more powerful sub and amp using Audio Control LC2i. My problem is when connecting the sub wires from the amp to the LC2i, I am only getting only power(positive) on all 4 wires from the harness of the sub amp and that doesn't trigger the LC2i to come on. I'm not sure why I'm not getting a ground(negative) on the sub wires.

Thanks,
Sam

Chuckwagon

Ah, I see. There are four wires coming off the old amp going to the old sub, which is a dual voice coil sub. I see the dilemma. There should be a pair of positives and a pair of negatives. But you're only getting positives. How did you measure the current? What colors are the wires?



P.S. - Also, I assume you have a +12v and ground connected to the LC2i, but I probably should have mentioned it to be sure. They are required. And, even though it has the GTO feature to turn it on via signal sensing, you can disable that and use the remote turn on lead instead. You might want to test it with GTO off just to make sure it works.

AP2

iTrader: (1)

Yes, there's 4 wires coming from the old amp going to the sub. There's 2 pairs of blue and black wires and all 4 are getting positive signals. I used a light tester to check the wires.

I'll work on it later tonight and let you know what happens.

Thanks!

Shibumi1

the oem sub has 4 wires at the plug but only 2 actually go to the sub (its the equivalent of being bridged) positive from one side an negative from the other.. whats needed is a 100w 12ohm resistor..place it as if it were the speaker one side to pos one side to neg.. then off that split the output to the LC2i (for left and right)

to find which 2 wires u need take the oem sub and look at its plug (there should be 2 open spaces.. the darker color (black i think) is the positive

AP2

iTrader: (1)

Finally had time to work on this. Turns out I had a bad ground. Everything now works but for some reason I'm still not sure why I'm getting 4 positive on the factory sub wires.

Thanks for the help

305Busa

Did I read this correctly? Can you test the output (pos/neg) from an amp with a test light?

Chuckwagon

Glad it's all working for you.

How did you test the wires with a test light? I use a volt meter with the positive lead to the wire I'm testing and the negative to the car chassis/ground. That way only one wire is under test at a time, and I know that ground is ground.

AP2

iTrader: (1)

Yes, that's what i did but with a light tester. The ground stayed on the chassis of the vehicle while i tested each wire from the factory sub. Each wire was positive when tested.

Shibumi1

ITS NOT POSSIBLE TO TEST SPEAKER POLARITY WITH A TEST LIGHT!!!!!!

again all 4 wires show power because all 4 wires have current (however small) it is possible with a multimeter (buts way too involved to put in simple terms) sooo...

black(+) yellow(-) (voicecoil 1), white(+) - red(-) (voicecoil 2) but since the amp is actually bridged (use black as positive and red as negative) for the bridged output then split the bridged output into a left and right for stereo input to the LC2i

Nixsun79

Does anyone have a photo or drawing of how to wire the LC2I to the stock non-ML amp? I am looking for the remote wire, and also +12v hookup for the LC2I.

Is our car wired the same the IS250/350 non ML system?

I just realized im in the wrong the wrong forum. I have a GS350.