Ls 460 Subwoofer Replacement
#16
Lexus Fanatic
When it comes to a component package like the ML system, I wouldn't mess with mixing in aftermarket components. The ML is too good for that. If you were changing out ALL the speakers, then I'd be more inclined to chance switching it out. Hopefully it'll work out. If the ML system utilizes an IB (infinite baffle) sub (or what other here referred to a "free air sub), then you need to make sure the replacement is too. But that is only part of the equation. Ohms, watts etc......
#17
Too deep
That sub was to deep for the stock location the sub that I used was the jl marine sub it fit with a little work but I still wasn't happy so I just added an enclosure in the trunk with a separate amp, I didn't want to damage the factory amp being that it's an expensive repair if the amp gives out. Just my two cents. Plus mine is the L and was a PITA to work back there.
#18
Driver
Thread Starter
That sub was to deep for the stock location the sub that I used was the jl marine sub it fit with a little work but I still wasn't happy so I just added an enclosure in the trunk with a separate amp, I didn't want to damage the factory amp being that it's an expensive repair if the amp gives out. Just my two cents. Plus mine is the L and was a PITA to work back there.
#19
Driver
Thread Starter
I will measure the ohms tomorrow. I read the sub is 200 W. I'm not as worried about wattage as ohms. I am aware of what the difference in ohms can do to an amp. It can overheat and shut down temporarily. Or fail all together. Hence matching ohms is key.
#20
Driver
Thread Starter
Subwoofer Ohms
Well I had my electrician measure the ohms on the subwoofer today. It was bouncing from 50 ohms to 200 M ohms. Yes, mega ohms. It was crazy. I'm not sure what to think now. Everyone I spoke to today said just look on the speaker, look it up in line, or find the owner's manual. Finally, my response to one of them was, "if I could find one of those, I wouldn't be trying to have you measure it, would I?" I may try honking up the 16 ohm speaker and see what happens. At least temporarily. I was determined to get more thump in my trunk, but is may have to just add an amp and boxed woofer. That may be the safest thing to do. Thanks for all the advise and opinions.
#23
If I remember correctly I found out it was like 12ohms and trust me you will not find a 12ohm 10 inch woofer anywhere. Even with the jl marine 10 I installed I used an aftermarket amp and you need a special loc not just the cheap ones from Walmart. Pm me if you have any questions I did it all myself in like 2 hours, you should be fine if you have prior experience with car audio install that is.
#24
Driver
Thread Starter
If I remember correctly I found out it was like 12ohms and trust me you will not find a 12ohm 10 inch woofer anywhere. Even with the jl marine 10 I installed I used an aftermarket amp and you need a special loc not just the cheap ones from Walmart. Pm me if you have any questions I did it all myself in like 2 hours, you should be fine if you have prior experience with car audio install that is.
Thanks.
#25
I remember JL having subs with dual 6ohm voicecoils... wire in series and you get to 12 ohms.
LOC= line output converter, this is needed when adding an aftermarket amp to an oem sound system
LOC= line output converter, this is needed when adding an aftermarket amp to an oem sound system
#26
Driver
Thread Starter
I Hooked up my JL Audio 10W6 to see what happens. I think what happened is what a coworker said would happen because the OEM sub has such a high ohm and small magnet. The JL with its large magnet barely moved. I had the head unit volume on 53 of 62 and the woofer was barely vibrating. So, I think I am back to the drawing board of a separate amp for a subwoofer.
#28
LOC who? I'm not sure if it needs to be that complicated. On my last acura, I just ripped out the stock sub, convert the two signal wires +\- into a single male RCA and that plugs into the new amp input jack. From the new amp, hook the new sub to and you're really to roll. Problem free for 10 years so not so sure if loc is needed.
#29
I have the Mark Levinson system and I'm not sure if it's different but mime needed a digital audio conversion for it to work I used the regular line output converter and the sub barely moved even with the aftermarket amp installed. the signal that the sub wires give off is not a typical signal(this is all what the experts told me). I didn't believe it at first and taught the audio shop was just trying to make money selling me this 50$ loc but they were right, I think it has something to do with the individual summing of every speaker. Idk I'm no expert this is just my experience and I did do my share of trail and error.
#30
Driver
Thread Starter
I tried to replace the stock sub, but it didn't work out. I placed it back in last night. I did attach 2 wires to the subwoofer speaker wires with the intent of hooking up a loc, amp, and speaker down the line. Thinking of a Rockford Fosgate amp with ~300W. I have a JL Audio or Polk 10" sub. I will have to build a box for either one. I'll keep you posted.