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First off, happy holidays. I had the opportunity to have christmas day off and spent it under the LS with 120k miles to replace the AFRS. I had a CEL code P2195 stuck lean on Bank 1 Sensor 1. DENSO OEM replacement part number 2349052. Which I purchased online at Rock auto with 2 day shipping for under 100$ shipped. People claim the life span of these sensors are right around 120k mi.
CEL came on and off for a few weeks, light symptoms of rough idle, increased fuel consumption and an almost sour smell from the tail pipe from it running lean, along with Christmas lights on the instrument cluster of VSC, CEL,TRAC and warning lights. I checked for vacuum leaks post MAF sensor and around the intake manifold, sprayed with a bit of brake clean with no changes to idle, all vacuum hoses were tight without leaks.
So ruling out a vacuum leak letting too much air into the mixture I decided that it was the AFRS that was failing, there are numerous ways of reading the values of the sensor with a scanning device and manipulating the air/fuel intake manually to determine if your sensor is within the normal operating parameters, unfortunately I didn't have access to one and had to hope that replacing it would fix the issue, which it did.
I couldn't find a write up on how to do this job through my searches and forgive me if there is one out there, but here are the steps that I took to remove it and hope it helps someone in the future.
This is to be used as informational use only, I am not responsible for injuries to yourself or your vehicle.
Jack the car up and use jack stands, be sure to have it safely secured, the car should be at ambient air temp to avoid being burnt by the cat and tail pipe. Spray a bit of wd-40, pb blaster which ever you have on hand directly onto the existing AFRS.
The big arrows reflect the front of the vehicle in relation to the photo taken.
1. Remove the skid plate by removing the 4 10mm bolts circled, the center is latched on and can be removed by lifting and sliding forward after all bolts holding the skid plate up are taken off.
2. Remove 2 14mm bolts on the passenger side.
3. Remove the 2 14mm bolts on the drivers side. Lift and slide forward then remove the skid plate, set aside.
4. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the access panel in place, it's attached to the "sway bar mount" for lack of correct terminology.
5. I decided to remove the actual sway bar mount, some people with smaller hands and arms might be able to get in there, I did this to save myself from cursing up a storm and getting my arm stuck under there. Remove the 4 14mm bolts, 2 holding the bushing bracket and 2 that bolt up to the frame.
6. Take note of the directional arrow
That's on the bushing bracket, it should be facing toward the front of the car, move the bushing aside.
7. Remove the 2 14mm bolts located on the front of the sway bar mount, you don't have to secure the nuts on the other end with a wrench/socket because they are mounted together. Just back the bolts out evenly and you should be fine.
The sway bar moves freely forward and back a few inches, with a little massaging the mount will slide out, be careful not to be directly under it as it is a bit heavy. With limited mobility being under the car, I doubt you will be able to avoid being hit in the head.
8. Now we have better access to the AFRS, I cut the wires up to the sensor to fit the closed end of the 7/8 wrench, I didn't want to risk stripping the bolt and have another headache, so with precision and a bit of force it broke loose.
9. With the sensor out and the connector still connected you will see that the wires are suppose to be routed through the two metal holders as shown.
10. The connector is a female end, apply pressure as indicated on the small arrow and pull, since I cut the wire from the sensor I didn't have much to pull on so I used vise grips and secured it to the wires while releasing the clip.
There is also a retaining clip with a zip tie on it that's on the bottom right corner of the photo that is clipped into the metal ring right under the red circle in the picture, I used a flat head screwdriver to pry it off.
With that said, reverse the process, I had to use a flat head to be able to have the connector snap back into place.
I clipped the connector first, twisted the sensor counter clockwise about 8 times, applied the antisieze that came with the sensor to the threads and threaded it back into the bunghole. The reason I did this is because I wasn't able to get my hands up to the connector with the sensor already installed.
Put everything else together in reverse process, hook up a scan tool to the DLC under the drivers kick panel, clear the code.
I hope this helps someone in the future, all symptoms for me are gone and it's nice to see a clean instrument cluster without all the lights.
How long did it take you to complete this repair, seems like a lot of work to get to that sensor. I know things are tight towards the back of the engine on these cars.
How long did it take you to complete this repair, seems like a lot of work to get to that sensor. I know things are tight towards the back of the engine on these cars.
Roughly an hour, can possibly be done in half the time.
Can you unclip the sensor from the top of the engine bay? I tried replacing mine, but for the life of me I couldn’t reach the connecting end or even see it to unclip.
The working space was to challenging to get to. There must be something I’m overlooking.
Awesome write up with pictures and clear instructions. Will this be the same for bank2 also? Will the connector be accessible from under the car? I am getting P0174 (bank 2 lean) and p2195 bank 1 sensor stuck lean. Is it possible for bank 1 sensor to throw a lean code for bank 2?
I have changed the gaskets for the intake manifold and there seems to be no vacuum leak after the MAF sensors.
I do not want to change both upstream 02sensors (A/F) at the same time. As I opened up both and cleaned them both. After that the fuel trim is not showing for bank 2 , as now I am getting p051 for bank 2. Thank you in advance for any assistance
First off, happy holidays. I had the opportunity to have christmas day off and spent it under the LS with 120k miles to replace the AFRS. I had a CEL code P2195 stuck lean on Bank 1 Sensor 1. DENSO OEM replacement part number 2349052. Which I purchased online at Rock auto with 2 day shipping for under 100$ shipped. People claim the life span of these sensors are right around 120k mi.
CEL came on and off for a few weeks, light symptoms of rough idle, increased fuel consumption and an almost sour smell from the tail pipe from it running lean, along with Christmas lights on the instrument cluster of VSC, CEL,TRAC and warning lights. I checked for vacuum leaks post MAF sensor and around the intake manifold, sprayed with a bit of brake clean with no changes to idle, all vacuum hoses were tight without leaks.
So ruling out a vacuum leak letting too much air into the mixture I decided that it was the AFRS that was failing, there are numerous ways of reading the values of the sensor with a scanning device and manipulating the air/fuel intake manually to determine if your sensor is within the normal operating parameters, unfortunately I didn't have access to one and had to hope that replacing it would fix the issue, which it did.
I couldn't find a write up on how to do this job through my searches and forgive me if there is one out there, but here are the steps that I took to remove it and hope it helps someone in the future.
This is to be used as informational use only, I am not responsible for injuries to yourself or your vehicle.
Jack the car up and use jack stands, be sure to have it safely secured, the car should be at ambient air temp to avoid being burnt by the cat and tail pipe. Spray a bit of wd-40, pb blaster which ever you have on hand directly onto the existing AFRS.
The big arrows reflect the front of the vehicle in relation to the photo taken.
1. Remove the skid plate by removing the 4 10mm bolts circled, the center is latched on and can be removed by lifting and sliding forward after all bolts holding the skid plate up are taken off.
2. Remove 2 14mm bolts on the passenger side.
3. Remove the 2 14mm bolts on the drivers side. Lift and slide forward then remove the skid plate, set aside.
4. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the access panel in place, it's attached to the "sway bar mount" for lack of correct terminology.
5. I decided to remove the actual sway bar mount, some people with smaller hands and arms might be able to get in there, I did this to save myself from cursing up a storm and getting my arm stuck under there. Remove the 4 14mm bolts, 2 holding the bushing bracket and 2 that bolt up to the frame.
6. Take note of the directional arrow
That's on the bushing bracket, it should be facing toward the front of the car, move the bushing aside.
7. Remove the 2 14mm bolts located on the front of the sway bar mount, you don't have to secure the nuts on the other end with a wrench/socket because they are mounted together. Just back the bolts out evenly and you should be fine.
The sway bar moves freely forward and back a few inches, with a little massaging the mount will slide out, be careful not to be directly under it as it is a bit heavy. With limited mobility being under the car, I doubt you will be able to avoid being hit in the head.
8. Now we have better access to the AFRS, I cut the wires up to the sensor to fit the closed end of the 7/8 wrench, I didn't want to risk stripping the bolt and have another headache, so with precision and a bit of force it broke loose.
9. With the sensor out and the connector still connected you will see that the wires are suppose to be routed through the two metal holders as shown.
10. The connector is a female end, apply pressure as indicated on the small arrow and pull, since I cut the wire from the sensor I didn't have much to pull on so I used vise grips and secured it to the wires while releasing the clip.
There is also a retaining clip with a zip tie on it that's on the bottom right corner of the photo that is clipped into the metal ring right under the red circle in the picture, I used a flat head screwdriver to pry it off.
With that said, reverse the process, I had to use a flat head to be able to have the connector snap back into place.
I clipped the connector first, twisted the sensor counter clockwise about 8 times, applied the antisieze that came with the sensor to the threads and threaded it back into the bunghole. The reason I did this is because I wasn't able to get my hands up to the connector with the sensor already installed.
Put everything else together in reverse process, hook up a scan tool to the DLC under the drivers kick panel, clear the code.
I hope this helps someone in the future, all symptoms for me are gone and it's nice to see a clean instrument cluster without all the lights.
Many thanks. Replacing the upstream driver side o2 fixed my p1170 and p0171
First off, happy holidays. I had the opportunity to have christmas day off and spent it under the LS with 120k miles to replace the AFRS. I had a CEL code P2195 stuck lean on Bank 1 Sensor 1. DENSO OEM replacement part number 2349052. Which I purchased online at Rock auto with 2 day shipping for under 100$ shipped. People claim the life span of these sensors are right around 120k mi.
CEL came on and off for a few weeks, light symptoms of rough idle, increased fuel consumption and an almost sour smell from the tail pipe from it running lean, along with Christmas lights on the instrument cluster of VSC, CEL,TRAC and warning lights. I checked for vacuum leaks post MAF sensor and around the intake manifold, sprayed with a bit of brake clean with no changes to idle, all vacuum hoses were tight without leaks.
So ruling out a vacuum leak letting too much air into the mixture I decided that it was the AFRS that was failing, there are numerous ways of reading the values of the sensor with a scanning device and manipulating the air/fuel intake manually to determine if your sensor is within the normal operating parameters, unfortunately I didn't have access to one and had to hope that replacing it would fix the issue, which it did.
I couldn't find a write up on how to do this job through my searches and forgive me if there is one out there, but here are the steps that I took to remove it and hope it helps someone in the future.
This is to be used as informational use only, I am not responsible for injuries to yourself or your vehicle.
Jack the car up and use jack stands, be sure to have it safely secured, the car should be at ambient air temp to avoid being burnt by the cat and tail pipe. Spray a bit of wd-40, pb blaster which ever you have on hand directly onto the existing AFRS.
The big arrows reflect the front of the vehicle in relation to the photo taken.
1. Remove the skid plate by removing the 4 10mm bolts circled, the center is latched on and can be removed by lifting and sliding forward after all bolts holding the skid plate up are taken off.
2. Remove 2 14mm bolts on the passenger side.
3. Remove the 2 14mm bolts on the drivers side. Lift and slide forward then remove the skid plate, set aside.
4. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the access panel in place, it's attached to the "sway bar mount" for lack of correct terminology.
5. I decided to remove the actual sway bar mount, some people with smaller hands and arms might be able to get in there, I did this to save myself from cursing up a storm and getting my arm stuck under there. Remove the 4 14mm bolts, 2 holding the bushing bracket and 2 that bolt up to the frame.
6. Take note of the directional arrow
That's on the bushing bracket, it should be facing toward the front of the car, move the bushing aside.
7. Remove the 2 14mm bolts located on the front of the sway bar mount, you don't have to secure the nuts on the other end with a wrench/socket because they are mounted together. Just back the bolts out evenly and you should be fine.
The sway bar moves freely forward and back a few inches, with a little massaging the mount will slide out, be careful not to be directly under it as it is a bit heavy. With limited mobility being under the car, I doubt you will be able to avoid being hit in the head.
8. Now we have better access to the AFRS, I cut the wires up to the sensor to fit the closed end of the 7/8 wrench, I didn't want to risk stripping the bolt and have another headache, so with precision and a bit of force it broke loose.
9. With the sensor out and the connector still connected you will see that the wires are suppose to be routed through the two metal holders as shown.
10. The connector is a female end, apply pressure as indicated on the small arrow and pull, since I cut the wire from the sensor I didn't have much to pull on so I used vise grips and secured it to the wires while releasing the clip.
There is also a retaining clip with a zip tie on it that's on the bottom right corner of the photo that is clipped into the metal ring right under the red circle in the picture, I used a flat head screwdriver to pry it off.
With that said, reverse the process, I had to use a flat head to be able to have the connector snap back into place.
I clipped the connector first, twisted the sensor counter clockwise about 8 times, applied the antisieze that came with the sensor to the threads and threaded it back into the bunghole. The reason I did this is because I wasn't able to get my hands up to the connector with the sensor already installed.
Put everything else together in reverse process, hook up a scan tool to the DLC under the drivers kick panel, clear the code.
I hope this helps someone in the future, all symptoms for me are gone and it's nice to see a clean instrument cluster without all the lights.
I cannot thank you enough. I’m shocked enough just at the fact that I found ANYTHING on replacing O2 sensors on these cars in the first place. After paying $425 for a shop to replace my upstream Bank 1 (driver side) O2 sensor, I was looking for a much cheaper route for replacing my Bank 2 upstream sensor when it went out. I’m a diy’er anyway, but some things on this car at the moment strike me as a bit more intimidating than I am willing to take on (prime example: the fuel pump gaskets. Yes, I’ve seen the tutorial videos, read the great forum write-ups. Idk man, something about it here just feels sketchy to me…) Being 21, I’m not the most experienced yet, but YouTube can teach a dude some things nowadays! Lol.
Found the sensor on Amazon for $110 shipped on prime. Gonna attempt to install it on my own this upcoming week and heavily refer to this awesome guide as I do it. Figured if I know how to install a clutch by myself on a Mustang, the full control arm job on my LS460, I can probably manage a wee little sensor ***knocks on wood viciously***.
Once again, thank you, you’ve officially saved at least one person’s rear in taking the time to write all of this up. Props to you my man.
Great write up. Luckly I was able to just reach up there and unplug the old sensor and clip the new one in without taking any of the sway bar mounting points off (just the skid plates).
12-26-15, 01:05 PM
2007 LS460 Air/fuel ratio sensor removal DIY
