Kennyr44

Here are your shift solenoids and filter. When you pull the pan and filter you get 4 quarts total out. Since I did the 2 1/2qt drain and fill twice before and the Lexus dealer did a drain and fill for the previous owner almost 12 quarts have been replaced. Needless to say my fluid is very clean now. I set my fluid temperature level with a laser temp gun pointing it at the fluid dribbling out of the level plug.
I also put my new brake pads on that won't turn the wheels black .

Doublebase

You pointed the gun at the fluid when it was coming out? You must have a steady hand, most point it at the pan and add 5-10 degrees.

The tranny heats up fast, doesn't it? I was surprised how quick it reaches temp.

Kennyr44

The pan did read about 10 degrees lower than the fluid. The job went smooth with no problems. The key is having the lift. Without that forget about it. Getting to the fill plug is tight.

Doublebase

Excellent, I wasn't sure what the pan would register.

I can't remember what the fluid temp is supposed to be...110? I'll look it up next week on all data.

I'll definitely do it this way next time I check the fluid, I just recently did a drain and fill and I may go back and just give it a check.

And you're right about the lift, without it the fill plug is just too high and the exhaust flange gets in your way...it can be done, but it's a pain without the lift.

Kennyr44

Ive worked on my share of cars and these are pretty easy so far with the things Ive done. Water pump, brakes, trans service fiasco and spark plugs. Any kid on his first day out of mechanic school could do all of these easily. No transverse engine or timing belt to dive into. The hardest part is dealing with those stupid engine cover clips, so far. Out of 25 hand jester emojis I couldn't find fingers crossed.

Doublebase

For the most part I agree...there's a lot of room in front of the engine...looks like belts, the alternator, AC compressor, water pump, will all be easy to change. The brakes are easy to work on. The suspension system is pretty easy to replace. Once you find the frame in towards the cats, it's much easier to lift than finding some clearance on the pinch welds.

I will say there is not much room underneath towards the back of the engine, it's very tight in there. And the top of the engine has a ton of stuff on it...wiring harnesses, connectors, etc. more than I've seen on any other engine. And there is two fuel systems to worry about with this car...along with two variable valve timinsystems to worry about (one is hydraulically activated, the other uses an electric motor). Hopefully none of those things fail or I'll be doing a lot of research to figure how to repair them.

Unsober1

Dang Kenny ! That's some great work. Do you have that lift at your old work ? Or do you have it in ur own shop ?

Kennyr44

My lift and tools are at my house. I worked on a few customers cars for a couple years but now just my own stuff for fun. I'm about done with the LS, just the glove box door left till the control arms start to make noise if ever. I'm only gonna drive this car 5k a year so It will be many years till I touch the trans, brakes, water pump or plugs again most likely. Oil changes once a year, Mobil 1 0-30 or 5-30. Love this car it's a joy to drive.

roadfrog

Don;t forget the cabin filter and brake fluid flushes..

Kennyr44

The previous owner was charged for brake flushes. It looks clean and I hate that job so forget that. I already changed the cabin filter. I forced the door open to change it, little did I know about that fiasco. Anyway I could be the only person who did this and it didn't hurt anything.

isfdude

iTrader: (11)

Use DOT4 for the brake fluid. I used stop tech fluid.

roadfrog

Why? I mean, the only difference is a higher boiling point, (and higher price), I wouldn't bother, since I don't drive mountain roads at high speeds.

isfdude

iTrader: (11)

It's only a few bucks and you never know when you will need to stop really hard or have to get somewhere in a rush or emergency where you will beat on your brakes.