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Dead battery - related to doorjamb switches?

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Old 06-20-16, 09:21 AM
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Tec80
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Default Dead battery - related to doorjamb switches?

My battery died trying to start the car this morning. For several months, it had been cranking slower than I remember, but still worked fine. This morning it gave the dreaded clicking sound, and the trunk wouldn't self-close.

Since I have 59k and it's a 2011, the battery isn't covered and prorating of the 7 year battery coverage is in the last 2 years (and therefore likely more expensive than a new Costco Interstate battery, which is a bargain at $90). So off to Costco I will go after work.

Related(?):
80% of the time when I open the driver's door to get out, there is a dinging sound even though I have already pushed the power button. Briefly pushing the plunger on the doorjamb switch makes the dinging stop. Is this a symptom of the defective doorjamb switch issue? Since I do this check nearly every time I get out (and I wait for the lights to shut off before I turn away from the car), I assumed that no power is still on - but this might be a false assumption. Any thoughts?
Old 06-20-16, 09:46 AM
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GR6RR
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I get the dingy sound when I shut the car off with the door open. I always reach and push down the switch when I do so. or I depressed the switch with the door open while shutting off the vehicle. I too, wonder if my switch is bad. Could we switch it from the passenger side? I hardly ever have a passenger. I ride solo almost all the time.
I carry a product I sell, so a dead battery can get jumped started without a problem. I carry a multi-use power bank. Similar to these listings, http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...start&_sacat=0
Old 06-20-16, 10:46 AM
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jmcraney
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Originally Posted by GR6RR
I get the dingy sound when I shut the car off with the door open. I always reach and push down the switch when I do so. or I depressed the switch with the door open while shutting off the vehicle. I too, wonder if my switch is bad. Could we switch it from the passenger side? I hardly ever have a passenger. I ride solo almost all the time.
I carry a product I sell, so a dead battery can get jumped started without a problem. I carry a multi-use power bank. Similar to these listings, http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...start&_sacat=0
Well, what you are experiencing is not a symptom of a bad doorjamb switch - your experience is normal, and if it didn't ding that would be an indication that the doorjamb switch is bad. Probably the reason you are getting the "dinging" is because you are opening the door before you turn the ignition off. As soon as you close all the doors the dinging should stop and that is what you simulate by operating the doorjamb switch with your finger. Try opening the door after you are certain the ignition is off and let us know if you still have the problem. And, of course if a passenger opens their door before the ignition is off, same problem. The typical doorjamb switch failure mode on these cars is to not sense that the door is open when it is open.

You might have a similar "dinging experience" if you remove your seatbelt before you turn the ignition off.

Last edited by jmcraney; 06-20-16 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 06-20-16, 10:59 AM
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jmcraney
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Originally Posted by Tec80
My battery died trying to start the car this morning. For several months, it had been cranking slower than I remember, but still worked fine. This morning it gave the dreaded clicking sound, and the trunk wouldn't self-close.

Since I have 59k and it's a 2011, the battery isn't covered and prorating of the 7 year battery coverage is in the last 2 years (and therefore likely more expensive than a new Costco Interstate battery, which is a bargain at $90). So off to Costco I will go after work.

Related(?):
80% of the time when I open the driver's door to get out, there is a dinging sound even though I have already pushed the power button. Briefly pushing the plunger on the doorjamb switch makes the dinging stop. Is this a symptom of the defective doorjamb switch issue? Since I do this check nearly every time I get out (and I wait for the lights to shut off before I turn away from the car), I assumed that no power is still on - but this might be a false assumption. Any thoughts?
What you have described is not what would happen if the doorjamb switch was bad and caused the headlights to stay on - your experience is most likely a battery that died of old age. Regardless of what anyone tells you, batteries don't last longer than about 40 months by the classic definition of a good battery. The classic definition is that any battery that has a fully-charged State-Of-Charge that is less than 75% should be replaced. Prorating batteries is more about getting you to buy from the same manufacturer than it is about batteries lasting beyond 40 months. You made a wise decision.
Old 06-20-16, 01:00 PM
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greg3852
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About a week after being told my battery was at 75% it died.
Old 06-21-16, 10:08 AM
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GR6RR
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good to know, thank you jmc, thanks for the confirmation. we're all good here
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