superdenso

If actually leaking oil at 0w20 I would go to 0w30. I use 0w30 now because it mutes the engine noises and marginally increases protection. I hear the TGMO has more moly, & I worked with fresh moly years ago. One time I got some on my hands without gloves and it just didn't feel clean; in other words it felt like it contained a bit of grit. So for me moly doesn't turn me on. Now that's not to say it doesn't work, or that all molybdenum is the same. It's just my observation. Further, if you chose to go 0w30, you could start with mobil1, and if you're still going through oil, you can switch to Redline. The Redline seems heavier and their rep told me it has a lot of zinc and zinc is the only additive that protects. I haven't checked that claim. Hopefully something arrests your leak

Doublebase

I have been somewhat fascinated with this "moly phenomenon" for the last couple years...up until that point I didn't care about oil, I just change it on a regular basis and never had a single problem. But now with forums and oil chat rooms moly has become something that interests me. Lol.

Truth be be told moly probably feels dirty and gritty because it's kind of like a powdered metal when it's dumped in oil (very fine of course). And supposedly that moly gets into the little cracks and imperfection of moving metal parts and creates a barrier that protects those parts as they slide against each other in basic engine operation. This isn't the only additive that can do this, other brands use sodium as their main additive protection ingredient, and supposedly that does a great job as well. Either one would feel abrasive to the touch I suppose. And there are many other additives that serve a purpose..many in which seem to serve multiple purposes.

But out there are many people that run Toyota engines without any moly in them at all and those people are doing just fine using the sodium based oils...Valvoline, Redline, Royal Purple, Napa Sythetic, many many more. I work with a guy who has a Toyota Camry with 320,000 miles on it...he uses cheap Napa house brand conventional oil, and laughs at me when I go out of my way to find oil that has moly in it for my car (because I tell him my engine needs it). Even I have to laugh when I say that because it simply isn't true, but I'm kind of caught on this mental moly rollar coaster and I'm not getting off anytime soon. I find its best to do whatever makes you feel good with a car. If it feels good? Do it. You want to dump an additive in your tank at $10 dollars a bottle? Go ahead and do it. Even though I know what those additives do...I've torn down those motors...believe me injector cleaners and all that stuff do virtually nothing, but it makes people feel good, so do it. Right now I'm using an additive...I know it does nothing, but for some reason I feel good doing it, so who cares? I got the stuff for free anyway.

roadfrog

Found this which helps to explain what molybdenum is and why it's good:

Moly exists as microscopic hexagonal crystal platelets Several molecules make up one of these platelets. A single molecule of Moly contains two sulfur atoms and one molybdenum atom. Moly platelets are attracted to metal surfaces. This attraction and the force of moving engine parts rubbing across one another provide the necessary thermochemical reaction necessary for Moly to form an overlapping protective coating like armor on all of your engine parts. This protective armor coating has a number of properties that are very beneficial for your engine.

The Moly platelets that make up the protective layers on your engine surfaces slide across one another very easily. Instead of metal rubbing against metal, you have Moly platelets moving across one another protecting and lubricating the metal engine parts.

This coating effectively fills in the microscopic pores that cover the surface of all engine parts, making them smoother. This feature is important in providing an effective seal on the combustion chamber. By filling in the craters and pores Moly improves this seal allowing for more efficient combustion and engine performance.



This overlapping coating of Moly also gives protection against loading (perpendicular) forces. These forces occur on the bearings, and lifters. The high pressures that occur between these moving parts tend to squeeze normal lubricants out.

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

Oil consumption can be cause by less catastrophic issues than worn valve stem seals and piston rings. Before tearing your engine down, I'd have someone competent check the crankcase ventilation system, PCV valve, EGR valve, etc. Many times these components allow oil to get where it shouldn't be and burned excessively.

roadfrog

Indeed. This was a common problem in overly complex and over-engineered BMW vehicle's PCV systems

freemurray

I have a 2007 LS460 wit 142K miles and uses about a quart around 3500 miles. I m using Mobil Super 5w20 -not synthetic oil .. I buy this at wal mart... My mechanic said there is something called BG engine performance restorer and may help with oil consumption. Has anyone tried this? seems dangerous to me to put this in a lexus engine.

Hanna

BG engine performance Restoration "eliminates oil consumption associated with buildup and improves overall power and economy." .removing 'build up' can be a good thing or bad depending how you look at it. ...something like Liqui Moly Anti-Friction Oil Treatment fills in the cracks and BG removes what Moly put it ! oh no. one product adds and other removes it... now what do you do ! and how do we know if the oil consumption is due to sludge 'build up' or 'cracks' : .

my2008 LS460 (97K miles) low oil light comes on around 3,500 after an oil change. that's too much oil consumption in my opinion given it hold 9 qts. unacceptable from such a refined engine.

zracer31

Well, my experience is totally the opposite on burning oil - my oil level (2008 LS, 92K miles) NEVER budges from exact full mark on stick. Have changed the oil 3 times now, put about 6K per interval, use Toyota 0W-20 per recommendations. I have never had any engine, regardless of make or mileage burn enough oil between changes that it showed on the stick. BTW, that covers 12 cars from 1967 - 2012, from Chevy, Ford, Dodge, Toyota, Lexus. If my Lexus needed that much oil between changes I would be PISSED!

Lexuslsguy

Yeah, burning oil is never fun. I use the Liqui Moly Mos2 product. It's good stuff. I'm not burning any oil I prefer to use it for cold start protection / anti wear properties. I would do an engine flush and change the oil with your choice and try the Mos2 or Cera Tec product. Both are excellent.

lextout

sometimes i wish the good ol uz engines were used in these cars

Doublebase

With 157,000 miles on my 460 I've found a couple of things with "oil consumption". For me it depends on so many factors evidently, winter vs summer driving, brand, highway mileage, around town mileage. But basically the most I've had to add in 7,000 miles of driving is maybe a quart and a half...maybe three quarters. The least I've had to add in 7,000 miles was a half a quart. On average I add a quart.

Castrol Magnetic gave me the best results, followed by TGMO. Mobil 1 and Valvoline tend to be the "worst" for me in terms of consumption. Summer driving gives me less consumption, winter more. And believe it or not highway driving gives me more consumption.

Some people will tell you that a little consumption is a good thing, because oil is escaping past the rings and adding more lubrication and protection to the cylinder walls. But basically unless your car is consuming two quarts every thousand miles, you don't have much to worry about. I've seen cars burn oil for 100's of thousands of miles and they're still going strong. But it can be a pain to keep up with it.

Persocon

my 2008 LS460 140,150 miles burns 1 quart every 1,000 miles on the money, like clock work. Regardless of winter/summer, mile high Denver, sea-level San Fran, hot *** Phoenix, -2F or 120F outside temperature.
Vehicle is Denver car from new to 120,000. With numerous Uber/Lyft urban hard use and highway from 87k to 105k miles. Highway use from 105k to 120k in Denver, highway use from 120k to now 140k at sea-level San Fran.
All consistent oil consumption at 1 quart every 1k miles, Mobil 1 full synthetic 0w20, Liqui Moly Special Tec 5w20, Royal Purple doesn't matter, all the same.

Experiments: going up viscosity Mobil 1 full syn 5w30 = no use, changed to Liqui Moly Special Tec 5w20 = no use, Royal Purple no use
Only thing that worked: add to your oil fill of choice, 2 bottles (1.05 quarts) of Rislone Engine Treatment Concentrate 16.9oz bottle $4.47 at wa1mart virtually stopped oil consumption, slowed it waaayy down to maybe half quart per 4k miles.
Currently experimenting with factory Toyota 0w20, not enough miles to see a change.

Here's an oil analysis with BlackStone Labs with 16k oil interval adding 1 quart every 1k Mobil 1 full syn 0w20

Junglequac

I went through a brief scare a few months ago when after about 1000 miles post oil change, the "Add Engine Oil" light came on. Imagine my horror when I needed to add almost 3 quarts of Mobil 1!
Turns out the tech that did the change screwed the pooch.

Makes sense as the oil changers are the lowest on the totem pole generally and is why my utterly OCD older brother will not let a dealer change the oil in his cars. He is heartbroken that is company car WRX has a contract where he has to use the dealer for oil changes.

Apolyton

2007 Lexus LS460L same oil burning problem. Have been using synthetic 10W20, I am now trying 10W30 synthetic and will report back. Thanks to all the drivers for your input!

Forgot to mention, I keep a jug of motor oil and funnel in the trunk to deal with the menacing low oil light. It seems to always come on when I am far away from home.

Junglequac

It remains surreal to me that enough folks have had an issue with consumption to warrant a thread whereas with the 1UZ and the 3UZ, I seldom encountered anyone bringing it up. I had a 2005 LS430 Ultra Luxury immediately preceding the 460 and likewise never consumed a drop. While not 100% positive, I am pretty sure my 460 consumes some oil.

A few weeks ago I ended up picking up a 2012 Infiniti G37x as even with snow tires, having AWD is handy and I tend to go skiing 5 times a year or more. I looked for an AWD 460, but I had a heckuva time finding one that was not from the rust belt whereas the G37x is a Georgia vehicle throughout and was a silly good deal.

The G looks so boring compared to the 460 which is a car one year on I still gaze at it in the parking lot. Of course that is saying nothing of the 460 being roughly twice as expensive. It was kinda depressing to realize just how much faster the G37x is over my 460 with 60 MPH arriving around a second earlier.