LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017) Discussion topics related to the current flagship models LS460, LS460L and LS600H

I'm Burning Oil ???

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Old 12-06-17, 04:51 PM
  #31  
Lexuslsguy
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Liqui Moly's anti friction treatments are one of the best in my opinion. It's what I use for fantastic cold start protection. Also MMO to help clean sludge. If you have cold start clatter this will help a lot. Don't overfill, run a quart of MMO for 500 miles or so and change the oil with the Moly additive. Really good stuff. Find it on Amazon easily. Cannot say it will help your consumption but your engine will be thankful.

Last edited by Lexuslsguy; 12-06-17 at 04:55 PM.
Old 12-07-17, 09:20 AM
  #32  
UDel
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Originally Posted by superdenso
If actually leaking oil at 0w20 I would go to 0w30. I use 0w30 now because it mutes the engine noises and marginally increases protection. I hear the TGMO has more moly, & I worked with fresh moly years ago. One time I got some on my hands without gloves and it just didn't feel clean; in other words it felt like it contained a bit of grit. So for me moly doesn't turn me on. Now that's not to say it doesn't work, or that all molybdenum is the same. It's just my observation. Further, if you chose to go 0w30, you could start with mobil1, and if you're still going through oil, you can switch to Redline. The Redline seems heavier and their rep told me it has a lot of zinc and zinc is the only additive that protects. I haven't checked that claim. Hopefully something arrests your leak
German Castrol is a good OW30, a group 4 synthetic. It is supposed to be a little thicker then most OW30 oils.
Old 12-11-17, 01:45 PM
  #33  
Craiger
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We thought ours was burning oil ('08 LS460L, 235,000 miles). We took it to a Lexus dealer and they said it was leaking significantly from both valve covers and both high pressure fuel pumps. Yet there is never any oil on the ground. I haven't pulled the engine covers yet so I can't say for sure what's up. Anyway, just because there is no oil on the ground does not mean it's not leaking. I guess it collects in the aerodynamic panels under the engine. I'll bet they weigh a bit more by now.

BTW, it is burning some oil as it's slightly visible in the exhaust.
Yes we did switch to higher viscosity and it seemed to help.

I hate to give up this great car but I think it's nearing the end. Needs a front suspension rebuild too.
Old 05-30-18, 02:51 PM
  #34  
diamente
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Originally Posted by Doublebase
I have been somewhat fascinated with this "moly phenomenon" for the last couple years...up until that point I didn't care about oil, I just change it on a regular basis and never had a single problem. But now with forums and oil chat rooms moly has become something that interests me. Lol.

Truth be be told moly probably feels dirty and gritty because it's kind of like a powdered metal when it's dumped in oil (very fine of course). And supposedly that moly gets into the little cracks and imperfection of moving metal parts and creates a barrier that protects those parts as they slide against each other in basic engine operation. This isn't the only additive that can do this, other brands use sodium as their main additive protection ingredient, and supposedly that does a great job as well. Either one would feel abrasive to the touch I suppose. And there are many other additives that serve a purpose..many in which seem to serve multiple purposes.

But out there are many people that run Toyota engines without any moly in them at all and those people are doing just fine using the sodium based oils...Valvoline, Redline, Royal Purple, Napa Sythetic, many many more. I work with a guy who has a Toyota Camry with 320,000 miles on it...he uses cheap Napa house brand conventional oil, and laughs at me when I go out of my way to find oil that has moly in it for my car (because I tell him my engine needs it). Even I have to laugh when I say that because it simply isn't true, but I'm kind of caught on this mental moly rollar coaster and I'm not getting off anytime soon. I find its best to do whatever makes you feel good with a car. If it feels good? Do it. You want to dump an additive in your tank at $10 dollars a bottle? Go ahead and do it. Even though I know what those additives do...I've torn down those motors...believe me injector cleaners and all that stuff do virtually nothing, but it makes people feel good, so do it. Right now I'm using an additive...I know it does nothing, but for some reason I feel good doing it, so who cares? I got the stuff for free anyway.
I have a 2004 camry with 243K miles on it. It was running slower up hills. I am in SoCal. My commute consists of going up hills. I put in half bottle of seafoam in the gas tank and it's running smoother. I don't know if it is seafoam but it helped. I have more power going up hill. On my LS460, once its out of the shop, i am going to try bg44k.

 bg44k. order from Ebay. it's cheaper. bg44k. order from Ebay. it's cheaper.
She was getting 14mpg. Then my check engine light is on. I am changing out valve cover gaskets, spark tube seals, fuel pump seals.
Old 06-01-18, 06:07 AM
  #35  
VortecCPI
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My 1995 LS400 with 269,000 miles on the clock consumed, at most, ~1/2 QT of oil between 7,500-mile oil change intervals. I have always used Mobil 1 High-Mileage oil in that car.
Old 06-02-18, 05:42 AM
  #36  
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At 3000 miles I just had to add a qt (low oil light came on). This on conventional 5W30. So, there's no difference in consumption between 0W20 syn and 5W30 dino in my case.
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Old 06-02-18, 06:58 AM
  #37  
sha4000
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After 3k my level is on the lower dot but my low oil level light has not come on. I'm running 0W20 now, before the last OCI I was running 5W20 and it was about the same. My light usually comes on at about 4600 like clock work.
Old 06-03-18, 09:34 AM
  #38  
Doublebase
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Originally Posted by roadfrog
At 3000 miles I just had to add a qt (low oil light came on). This on conventional 5W30. So, there's no difference in consumption between 0W20 syn and 5W30 dino in my case.
Before I traded in my car I was going to try the conventional oil/heavier weight route, surprised it didn’t work for you.
Old 06-04-18, 06:03 AM
  #39  
roadfrog
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Originally Posted by Doublebase


Before I traded in my car I was going to try the conventional oil/heavier weight route, surprised it didn’t work for you.
I t didnt work for me before either, but thought I'd give it another try. I'll go back to 0W20 next OCI. Also, my low oil light came on again today momentarily. So another qt will make it two qts in 3500 miles.
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