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Thanks for the nice thoughts! It was actually a driver"s door impact between below the side mirror area. A car ran a red light, directly hitting the car on my left side, which struck my car a glancing blow, causing damage to the driver's door and part of the front panel. No airbag deployment, no glass breaking. The power **** on my audio system flew off. I was unhurt and able to drive the car off the road when asked to do so. The other cars were totaled, and the guy in the car next to mine
When that side of the car was repainted, the rear bumper was removed and the rear panel "blended" with the rest of the side so that the paint would look the same. It was the faulty reattachment of the rear bumper that caused the problem months later with the heavy rains we've had I suspect the problem had been gradually occurring; the final straw was probably parking in a sloped driveway in the rain, shifting the accumulated water to contact the parking brake system ECU.
But, yes, the body shop and the dealer came through.
Oh wow. So glad you walked away and again that the parking brake is squared away. When my LS430 was involved in an accident last Summer, a car in front of me lost control and preformed an unintentional PIT maneuver to the 430 sending it careening into a light pole. The damage to the driver's door was massive, but amazingly no airbag deployment.
While at first, they were going to consider fixing the car, I prevailed in getting it totaled. I won't lie, as I have stated in past posts, the 2005 LS 430 was simply not the car for me. While it was even the Ultra Luxury and had low miles, perfect service history, etc, I never warmed to it and hated the gold package.
I mostly purchased it as my older brother car and as someone who has worked in the auto industry since 15 primarily on the collision side of things, I have yet to meet someone more OCD than him about maintenance and so forth.
Regardless, seeing how well the 430 held up in the accident made me want another LS, but decidedly a 460. Actually the 6 months I had my 430, every time I saw a 460, I wished to heaven that I had one as I so greatly preferred the appearance and upon driving one, it felt right instantly. Still does.
Wow. Thanks for this thread. Now, the same problem happened to my LS. The car had a driver quarter panel repaired back in 2010. After the repair, I did not satisfied with the bumper corner where it meets the taillight. It's not flush like the other side. The bumper not sit properly on the side bracket, So I brought it back to the dealership. They told me they can not do anything about it, so the only way is to glue the bumper. It came out nice , I was ok with it.
Last week my Park light flashed after 3 days of rain. I found out that the water flooded the brake ECU in the trunk, thanks to this thread.
I took my car to the dealership today. I showed them what happened. They took the car to the bodyshop , removed the bumper and saw the glue and the rear bumper bracket with rivet, it support to he a clip not the rivet. They told me someone did that and it's not them. I told them the car has only one accident back in 2010 and the dealership fixed it. They keep saying that someone did that. I was so mad. They say it's not cover under the bodyshop warranty. I keep arguing with them and they told me to call my insurance to reopen the claim. Now the bodyshop's manager called me and I told him everything. He told me he'll investigate to see what happened.
Wow. Thanks for this thread. Now, the same problem happened to my LS. The car had a driver quarter panel repaired back in 2010. After the repair, I did not satisfied with the bumper corner where it meets the taillight. It's not flush like the other side. The bumper not sit properly on the side bracket, So I brought it back to the dealership. They told me they can not do anything about it, so the only way is to glue the bumper. It came out nice , I was ok with it.
Last week my Park light flashed after 3 days of rain. I found out that the water flooded the brake ECU in the trunk, thanks to this thread.
I took my car to the dealership today. I showed them what happened. They took the car to the bodyshop , removed the bumper and saw the glue and the rear bumper bracket with rivet, it support to he a clip not the rivet. They told me someone did that and it's not them. I told them the car has only one accident back in 2010 and the dealership fixed it. They keep saying that someone did that. I was so mad. They say it's not cover under the bodyshop warranty. I keep arguing with them and they told me to call my insurance to reopen the claim. Now the bodyshop's manager called me and I told him everything. He told me he'll investigate to see what happened.
i also had a leak in my trunk which flooded the brake ECU in the trunk after it started raining. In my case, the body shop (who had an office at my Lexus dealership), after a repair, didn’t put the bumper back properly. The body shop admitted it and paid for the replacement.
Having same message on the dash as everyone else and my Park Brake is not able to be engaged.
Would you happen to have the location of the 30 Amp Fuse they replaced ?
Also could someone verify the part number to the " Park Brake Control Module " that was replaced ?
I pulled up 3 part numbers.
First one is : 89680-33010 ( brake control power box ) Located in the Trunk Drivers Side just above where there is currently water.
Second one is: 89050-50010 ( Parking Brake Control Module ) Located in the Trunk Drivers Side AT the water line.
Third one is : 46300-50011 ( Park Brake Actuator ) Located close to the Rear Diff under the vehicle and i don't believe is the cause of this issue.
The Trunk is all dry EXCEPT the Drivers side part of the trunk area where these modules are located. There is a little bit of water in there possibly causing a short in this system.
It appears that the swap to replace those parts is fairly straightforward so i just need to isolate it to which part number the dealer replaced for you.
Just got a call to help my Dad w his 2015 LS460. Had a second key as I thought this might be a fob battery issue causing it not to start. Second Key did not help but I did see the Parking Brake message.
Vehicle had just been serviced and washed by Dealership under warranty. It will spend the night in a Safe-ish place while we sort this out to tomorrow. Glad to find the helpful thread!!
Update: I got the support call as a battery was dying in this 2015 LS. At the time of my arrival a 2nd key would only produce the new to me Parking Brake warning indicator & a no start condition. This from a car fresh from a dealer checkup!
Lexus came out today to the location of the event and a battery change solved all issues.
The disheartening part to me now is that this checkup was really my pops being extra careful as this car is about to make a 1400 mile round trip agenda. How was it kicked out of the shop without them checking the battery condition? This could have easily resulted in a bad situation & significant waste of vacation time on the road.
2nd Observation. We own 2 LS460 that between them have used 6 Batteries for a tad less than 130,000 miles.
Update: I got the support call as a battery was dying in this 2015 LS. At the time of my arrival a 2nd key would only produce the new to me Parking Brake warning indicator & a no start condition. This from a car fresh from a dealer checkup!
Lexus came out today to the location of the event and a battery change solved all issues.
The disheartening part to me now is that this checkup was really my pops being extra careful as this car is about to make a 1400 mile round trip agenda. How was it kicked out of the shop without them checking the battery condition? This could have easily resulted in a bad situation & significant waste of vacation time on the road.
2nd Observation. We own 2 LS460 that between them have used 6 Batteries for a tad less than 130,000 miles.
i may not be right, but it depends on the battery and with batteries its more time vs miles. So whats the capacity and type of battery. AGM and EFM batteries last longer, if you make lots of short trips or have other electronics in the car etc all these things affect the battery. Dealers are not reliable when it comes to these checks, most of them are not performed.
I would go to a autoparts store, have the health of the battery and alternator checked. Known issue with the cars is door jamb switch failing causing the car to think the doors are open I think was the issue and the lights or something do not turn off draining the battery something along those lines. I recently replaced my battery.
Update: Bought a used 89050-50010 ( Parking Brake Control Module ) from ebay that was in perfect shape. Changed it out and fired up Techstream, Performed reset of EPB and still Parking brake not 100%. It will engage ( Lock Up the rear wheels ) but will not disengage. This leads me to believe that the 46300-50011 ( Park Brake Actuator ) located above the rear diff is good and not the issue since it DOES work. Codes i am currently getting are C13A6 and C13A7 both related to EPB malfunction. One of them is in regards to a Open or Short Circuit in Motor (C13A6). Any insight on what i should do next ?
Also, The only thing i did was clear the codes and reset the EPC with Techstream, I did NOT run Zero Point Calibration. Could ZPC be the issue why my EPB engages, but does not dis-engage ( release ) . I can release it manually through the trunk access port under the spare tire by turning it a few turns counter-clockwise.
Going through the same issue this morning. Had crazy heavy rain, got in the car and had the same christmas lights going on with the parking brake system.
The trunk was wet from the left / right side. Dry in the middle and where the spare tire is.
Fingers crossed it's just the fuse. Seems 07' LS's have this leaking issue?
Leak was a result of a rear-end collision that was not disclosed by the previous owner. I had to replace the rear bumper and some minor body work done at the dealership.
Parts replaced:
Park Brake Unit found in the left side of the trunk (Part #: 89050 50010)
A few weeks later my audio went out, and I had to replace the "Toyota Selector Unit" found on the right side of the trunk under the amp (Part #: 86112 30100)
Car is working flawlessly now, although the leak hasn't been fixed 100%
Update: Bought a used 89050-50010 ( Parking Brake Control Module ) from ebay that was in perfect shape. Changed it out and fired up Techstream, Performed reset of EPB and still Parking brake not 100%. It will engage ( Lock Up the rear wheels ) but will not disengage. This leads me to believe that the 46300-50011 ( Park Brake Actuator ) located above the rear diff is good and not the issue since it DOES work. Codes i am currently getting are C13A6 and C13A7 both related to EPB malfunction. One of them is in regards to a Open or Short Circuit in Motor (C13A6). Any insight on what i should do next ?
Also, The only thing i did was clear the codes and reset the EPC with Techstream, I did NOT run Zero Point Calibration. Could ZPC be the issue why my EPB engages, but does not dis-engage ( release ) . I can release it manually through the trunk access port under the spare tire by turning it a few turns counter-clockwise.
Just curious how you managed to fix this repair?
I know this is old post but curious.
Also I found that you can take a 12v batter (i ran 2 wires from car batter to trunk) and disconnect one of the harness that connects to the actuator/parking break motor and put a pin in the thicker red and thicker black wires. Then depending on polarity I would touch the pins and listen for the actuator motor and try pushing the car back and forth. This would lock and unlock the wheels instead of taking that tool and unscrewing the parking brakes from under the spare tire.
It would also help you identify if the motor is working in both directions but thinking about it as I am typing this, it mY not be the best way as the spline gear may not be connected to the other gears. But it did work for me.
I have codes
C13ac and c13a6 with te hstrea. But my generic reader has just one code as c13af.
Ooking forward to find out hownyou fixed this.
The exact same thing happened to me with my 2010 about 2 years ago. Unlike you my emergency brake actually activated while I was sitting at a stop sign, I had to use the manual emergency brake release in the spare wheel well (which the dealership, a Lexus focused mechanics, and a luxury car shop knew nothing about Thank goodness for The Googles) it was embarrassing to say the least. When I got it to the dealership the ECU area was totally flooded it had been raining steadily for the 2 days prior but my trunk itself was bone dry, no sign of moisture at all. The week before I had an event to attend and my usual hand wash spot was crowded so in a rush I went thru a drive thru and the high pressure under carriage wash pretty much blasted thru to that area. Unfortunately the warranty did not cover the cost of the repair, I paid roughly $1900.00 to have it fixed when it was all said and done, in hindsight I should have saved the money because I NEVER use the emergency brake but that "Check Emergency Brake" message on my dash would have killed my soul. I hope it works out for you, if not weigh your options and see if maybe someone can just clear the warning code because $2k isn't pocket change in this climate no matter how well off we possibly are.
hey! I’m in the same boat right now. If disabling the alarm is an option, I’d rather do that than replace the control module. We’re you able to figure out if there’s a way to do it?
hey! I’m in the same boat right now. If disabling the alarm is an option, I’d rather do that than replace the control module. We’re you able to figure out if there’s a way to do it?
If you want to cancel the alarm all you have to do is remove 1 of the connections on the orange box (EPB ECU) in the trunk on the left side behind the panel.
This will stop the alarm.
To fix this issue was rather easy for me now that its all said and done and the only reason I didnt fix it sooner was because I wasnt sure about purchasing the part on ebay incase it didnt work.
In the end I ordered a new (EPB-ECU) FOR ABOUT $120. Then I purchased the Techstream VCI adapter cord and software disk on ebay for another $35. (I wasnt sure about this purchase either because I was worried about malware coming with the disk since it was bootleg I think so I used an old laptop that I wiped tonuse it. )
Once I replaced the (EPB-ECU) then I connected and ran the program and clicked clear and Walla.
Actually I first ran diagnostic to see and record all the codes then located the EPB actuator and turned it on on and off to see if it still functioned and it did. Then I clicked the clear button.
on a side note I some how broke my EPB release screw under the spare tire. It would not let it go or Llow it to disengage manually so I traced the wires to another connecter behind that same panel and disconnected it. Then I ran 2 wires from the batter to the trunk one positive and one negative and connected it to the black and red wireeading to the EPB actuator. This cause the break to release and to allow it to close or lock the breaks again I just reversed the wires since they are duel polarity. When I did thT I could hear the Parking break engaging and disengaging with a humming sound.
But to get the alarm off just disconnect one of the connections on the orange box.
If you want to cancel the alarm all you have to do is remove 1 of the connections on the orange box (EPB ECU) in the trunk on the left side behind the panel.
This will stop the alarm.
To fix this issue was rather easy for me now that its all said and done and the only reason I didnt fix it sooner was because I wasnt sure about purchasing the part on ebay incase it didnt work.
In the end I ordered a new (EPB-ECU) FOR ABOUT $120. Then I purchased the Techstream VCI adapter cord and software disk on ebay for another $35. (I wasnt sure about this purchase either because I was worried about malware coming with the disk since it was bootleg I think so I used an old laptop that I wiped tonuse it. )
Once I replaced the (EPB-ECU) then I connected and ran the program and clicked clear and Walla.
Actually I first ran diagnostic to see and record all the codes then located the EPB actuator and turned it on on and off to see if it still functioned and it did. Then I clicked the clear button.
on a side note I some how broke my EPB release screw under the spare tire. It would not let it go or Llow it to disengage manually so I traced the wires to another connecter behind that same panel and disconnected it. Then I ran 2 wires from the batter to the trunk one positive and one negative and connected it to the black and red wireeading to the EPB actuator. This cause the break to release and to allow it to close or lock the breaks again I just reversed the wires since they are duel polarity. When I did thT I could hear the Parking break engaging and disengaging with a humming sound.
But to get the alarm off just disconnect one of the connections on the orange box.
You are an absolute lifesaver!!! I recall removing both wires and that not working. It’s strange that the alarm goes away if you only disconnect one (I disconnected the smaller one). My care is at least drive-able now.
hesitating on swapping the part myself because I’m not sure if any of the wires may be damaged/corroded. If so, I’d rather just take it to an automotive electrician.
Love this community so much. Makes owning a Lexus a lot easier.
02-03-17, 02:46 PM
